PepeSilvia

Sooo, slightly OTT but probably an ok candidate for a KF or handy tech under n$$... or some other creative hijinks.. "Nimuno’s Lego tape is an adhesive plastic strip with Lego bumps on one side. It allows you to turn anything into a Lego compatible surface, from walls to toys to your own body. " https://www.dailydot.com/parsec/nimuno-lego-tape/ also if anyone knows how to view the markup before you post i'd be happy to have shrunk that img down a little.. i could've sworn there was an easy way to do that...

I think it get more interesting when you take into account buying new at launch, buying new current gen and buying previous gen refurbished/clearance and sale. Currently i think shorter term (eg 3 year) upgrade&replacement path you're probably better going for value in previous gen intel (sandy/ivy/haswell), ddr3/pcie3/sata3, preferably with nvme option and current gen mid range for GPU (or something like a titan from previous gen nvidia). Longer term you're probably better off going for x99 or z170 now, or waiting till end of year and seeing how new products stack up.. Having said all that i don't think you'd be able to come up with a definitive solution or neat graph as easily for desktops as you can with laptops etc... where april is usually the best time to buy laptops in the states year-on-year...

I think paypal lets you lodge a claim within 30 days of transaction (double check the number though). If you haven't heard from them after a week i'd do that. At the very least they might actually contact you, or you'll get your money back...

Tried a new account @hotmail.com cause i'd already set it up. The confirm email address came through straight away (it didnt previously), landed in junk folder. Nice work [eds] Almost immediately after designating donotreply@ltt as "Not Junk" i recieved an email from postmaster@hotmail.com Not sure what too make of that/havent seen it before. Lemme know if you'd like the email fwd'd. [/eds]

I've removed the stuff i set up for the work around, so will update when/if i know its working. @colonel_mortis if you reply to this post i'll let you know as soon as i see it. I havent tried a fresh account though i can if need be

Re PSU'S: Corsair and evga dont actually make them as such, they get them through oem's. Basically i'd say that if the oem is Seasonic or Sunflower then the psu should be fine. Evga and corsair then add to them and tweak, but im pretty they both use those oems. If they have good reviews then they're probably both fine. Just make sure you get an 80+gold or above with multiple 12v rails (as in Not 'single rail') and some headroom for overclocking. Gpu's for gaming; the basic principal is get one gpu thats more powerful as opposed to two cheaper ones in sli. Because your looking at big maxwell, it's not quite as clear cut. I'd still take the titan if i had your budget. It will handle just about anything for the next year or so with no problems compared to 980ti sli. Then when the new amd and nvidia cards are out and have been reviewed etc you can re assess and trade up. caveats being - if you want to play 4k at more than 60hz, you want multiple 4k monitors. Atm my choice would be 1440p gsync 27inch + at higher refresh and 4k for other stuff if you can get a 40inch + display. 4k at smaller screen sizes is pretty rubbish for daily use and really hard to run at higher fps. once hdmi 2 and display port 1.3 or 1.4 are really common 4k will improve a lot. Having said all that, after the first two sentence in that last para, its pretty much just my opinion. Re corsair aio, you'll have to double check but, as far as i understand it their warranty covers other parts damaged in the event of it leaking. It probably wont leak, but if it does and your mobo is rekd better off having them pay for it. I dont know if nzxt is the same, if they are go with what ever you like better. The kraken kills it on the noise-to-thermal performance benchmarks. the only other thing, is i chose the 280 (ie dual 140) rad as bigger fans can get the same performance while running slower/quieter. Re mobo,cpu etc. Yeah 6700k is probs the way to go. I mostly agree with @ The_KIASER I'm not familiar with that mobo though, if it has has m.2 support then its probably fine. You really should go with the m.2 nvme for your c drive for your price range. the one in my list is pretty sweet and beats the pants off sata. if you go m.2, make sure you mobo choice can boot from it. i think 2-3tb hdd is fine. i use a seperate 240g sata ssd for my games and a wd green for storage. the greens aren't as fast but if your just using it for music,movies,docs their fine and their quieter. if you go ssd game drive and hdd storage just get a 1tb and add more later if you need. the prices come down a little over time so unless you have 3tb of stuff to start with then get 1 and chuck in another when you need. the only thing with adding more smaller hdd's over time is making sure you mobo has enough dedicated sata lanes. depending on how the mobo is made it cant always use every port on the board if they share lanes with other ports. re fans, you could always grab the ltt edition noctuas, or the equivalent ones with their other colour choices for the rubber bits on the black design. i like noctua generally, they're pretty quiet they last for ages but they're not cheap and the ltt ones cost extra on top. otherwise corsair or fractal or maybe bitfenix? have decent options if i missed anything ping me, otherwise good luck

Here's a list for 3K: [eds] - added link, also there's room to switch some stuff around in this list depending on what you want to use the system for[/eds] PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/txHTdC Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/txHTdC/by_merchant/ CPU: Intel Core i7-5930K 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor ($556.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Corsair H110i GTX 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus X99-DELUXE/U3.1 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($389.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($149.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($181.95 @ SuperBiiz) Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($154.88 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX Titan X 12GB HYBRID Video Card ($1149.99 @ B&H) Case: NZXT H440 Designed by Razer™ ATX Mid Tower Case ($168.98 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair 750W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($134.99 @ Amazon) Other: Air Series SP120 LED Green High Static Pressure 120mm Fan Twin Pack ($20.99) Total: $3008.74 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-23 21:59 EDT-0400 Based on you wanting rendering capacity as well as (presumably) longevity Haswell-e over skylake b/c more cores plus dx12+vulcan 5930 b/c it's plenty good, you can always swap in a 5960 later if wou want moar Titan over 980ti's in sli b/c rendering + re-sale value (esp for water cooled) + price to performance (980ti's wont necesarilly outperform a titan in a meaningful way, cost less, sli is buggy a/f too often), also new gen gpu's probably wont destroy a titan but gen after w/HBM2 is probably the best upgrade path if your buying now. Corsair over kraken b/c supergood rep, warranty and 280 rad is nice (i didnt check the case but it should have space for dual 140's afaik) Mobo is BA, plus m.2 is gooood PSU, better and w only one gpu you still have plenty of headroom (you could go for a higher wattage if you like though) Ram - x99 has quad channel dims + plus you can add more if you want later Generally sky-lake is not suuper impressive but its still pretty good, for a high end system the step up is going to be worth it though imho

Still nothing on KB3103709 as of march 27th (original post 16th march), KB3115224 is a reliability improvement for VMs. Have updated original to reflect this.

obvs channel growth is a thing and newb intake is good cause they'll go watch the older stuff and/or stick with the channel as they get into pc, but for an ltt vid i did feel it was under done. someone above mentioned adding specific labels for parts referenced in the voice over ie pcie power and slots... which is i think a good idea if you're specifically aiming the vid at newbies and seems like the kind of thing pro's wouldn't think to mention. aside from that though, and taking into account @nicklmg 's comments, it might be an idea to flesh out the manufacturers software info a bit. Luke mentioned the geforce install extra's but only in saying you don't need them. maybe info on what they are or why they're irrelevant could be a good follow up vid same for amd software. Really just suggesting fleshing out the video with a little more of the basics. It would be easy enough to do in this vid with something like 'if you only wanted to see how to install your done, but keep watching for more info about xyz' after the main bit was done. Im sure luke could do it off the top of his head with no trouble so i wouldnt think scripting would be an problem. also someone should go help the person in the windows section of the forum who tried to use DDU and bricked their system. it might be an idea not to mention software that can do that in a vid aimed at newbies.

The expropriation of the means of production from the hands of the working class? Surely that is a fundamental goal of capital, no? (didnt watch the vid though)

Have you considered a life of crime?

Are you able to create a win10 usb/dvd? and choose to boot from that in uefi to complete the repair? OR install OS on a different drive and save files from the dud? Also did you try restarting from the login creen by holding shift+clicking restart? You "should" be able to restart in safe mode with networking that way. You could also try reflashing a clean stock bios from MSI with the mobos onboard option. I'm not sure it would help, and you may also need to boot to POST w/o the OS drive connected to do it. If the problem isnt within UEFI BIOS then this is probably not a great idea. Without actually having the system infront of me that's probs the limit of my ability. I also dont want to suggest stuff that could make it worse. Good luck

Just saw this^^ Try shutting down. Also, if you ran DDU you might have deleted the drivers for your GPU so monitor connected to mobo is a good option. If, shutting down and restarting normally doesnt work then repair is probs best. See if you can restore your most recent backup or run through the repair wizard. Eds -one last thought If that all fails, trying pulling out the GPU after shutdown and booting w/o it

IF, you're stuck in a safe mode loop but you can still get to the login screen you can access advanced boot options by holding the shift key and clicking the restart option at the login screen or from the power options menu after hitting the 'windows' key (usually next to left-alt key). IF, you have usb or Dvd drive priotised in your boot menu then you can use that and run repair. IF, you can login to the windows desk top in safe mode then you should be able to restart normally (i think?) Otherwise yeah, CMOS or check your mobo manual to see if there's an overide key to can hold down at boot to overide fast boot best of luck

Anyone know what KB3103709 is? It an update for Windows Server 2012 so far (Edit - march 27th) searching Micosoft, Microsoft support, Bing and Google have nothing. So i finally found a post on the microsoft community forums that has the details. Looks like it just took them a month to post the KB. Details: