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ncrossy1980

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Everything posted by ncrossy1980

  1. ncrossy1980
    Cheers man, I know it says 4K (60Hz) but I'm passing through 1440p (120Hz), obviously it doesn't specifically list every supported format under 4K but I figured it was whatever the HDMI standard would support. Unfortunately there's no way to run just sound from the TV to the soundbar, definitely nothing that would provide the Dolby Atmos feed. Never mind, looks like I'm all out of luck with this. Cheers anyway. p.s. Only 1 HDMI output on a 2080Ti... I don't think I could even use a DP to HDMI adaptor either as DP doesn't carry audio.
  2. ncrossy1980
    Hi to anyone who could just straight up tell me if I'm being stupid here. I have a Samsung 55" NU8000 TV, the one with the native 120Hz panel. It does 120Hz at 1440p. If I run a HDMI cable direct from my 2080Ti to the TV, the Nvidia control panel allows me to select 2560x1440 @ 120Hz and everything is perfect. A few months back I bought a Samsung HW-N950 soundbar, which has 4K & HDMI 2.0 pass through. So now, I run HDMI from the 2080Ti to the soundbar (for Dolby Atmos PC content), then HDMI from the soundbar to the TV. Problem is, when I do that, the Nvidia control panel doesn't allow me to select 120Hz at 1440p any more. And it's driving me mental. I can select 1920x1080 @ 120Hz, but anything above that is limited to 60Hz. I've tried: - Alternating every HDMI port in the TV - Alternating all the ports in the Soundbar - Alternating HDMI cables, all the cables currently in use do support 120Hz if ran direct from PC to TV - Disabling and enabling HDR on the TV - Creating a custom resolution in the NV Control Panel, that doesn't work either, it lets me create the profile but then after testing it the custom profile disappears. - Checked Samsung website and the ports on the soundbar definitely are HDMI 2.0 - Alternating output colour formats in the NV Control Panel - Toggling every conceivable setting within the TV menu to see if something is stopping the TV from reporting back through the soundbar that it supports 120Hz @ 1440p - Another observation I made was when passing through the soundbar, the TV is reporting the wrong resolution on screen. Even at 2560x1440 applied in Windows, the TV reports 3840x2160 even though the actual resolution is 1440. At the moment, if I want Dolby Atmos sound from my PC, I can't run any games at 120Hz which is the entire reason I bought this damn sound bar... I wanted to run games at 120Hz with Dolby Atmos. Does anyone know of any reason why I can't toggle to 120Hz 1440p when the HDMI cable is run through this sound bar when it uses standards which should support that? Thanks in advance.
  3. ncrossy1980
    it doesn't work as well turning women into blokes unfortunately, it struggles with removing long hair but I might make a series out of this if I can find a reliable way to capture the footage, doing that was like a 3 step rendering workflow with a ton of editing. Worth it though when it comes out as well as that!
  4. ncrossy1980
    Ok so the title of that video appearing in the preview kinda gives it away, but it's insanely clever and spooky realistic! If Linus was a girl... he actually looks mighty fine!
  5. ncrossy1980
    Fair enough, I'd like to believe it was condensation as that would give me something to go with but I'm in the UK, it ain't a humid environment here, and I'm in a well ventilated house with zero internal condensation issues... there's never any on the internal windows and I've got multiple panels in here and around 8 PCs in this room which have shown no signs of damp ever. I'll try the hair dyer though just in case, you never know.
  6. ncrossy1980
    Reading up on that grey uniformity explanation, it doesn't sound consistent with what I've got? My damage/fault is like random stain marks whereas grey uniformity looks like the panels ability to consistently spread even light across the display, it's localised in the middle of the display now and is spreading over time
  7. ncrossy1980
  8. ncrossy1980
    Odd question but when I try and Google anything related to "screen marks" I get nothing but backlight bleed posts and dead pixel information. Hoping someone knows what this actual issue is called so I can look into a fix, or I can concede that the monitor is knackered and never buy LG again. I do not expect this kind of damage on a 3 year old premium product, but that's my own beef to deal with. See attached. When the monitor is turned on from cold, you can clearly see the shadow marks appearing across the screen, they kind of look like water stains but there's never been any water anywhere near it. This started around 9 months ago with just one small inch long mark, but it's gotten progressively worse day by day. I would suspect in time this will spread across the entire display. It's noticeably more prominent when the display is cold, but when it warms up they slowly fade out but are always visible on greyish colours. If anyone can shed some light on what this might be, I can then start making some decisions! Cheers folks.
  9. ncrossy1980
    Does anyone have a Gigabyte mITX AB350N with an Intel 600p 128GB m.2 drive? The weirdest thing is happening. It just doesn't recognise the presence of the 600p. But if I put a PM951 m.2 drive in, it sees it. But then if I put the 600p into a different board, it works fine. Been a problem for around 9 months, tried several different BIOS revisions, current running F23d the latest one as of today... It's almost like this board just doesn't recognise the 600p but is fine with a Samsung drive.
  10. ncrossy1980
    Ahhh yea I read about them, but every article I read (possibly not reputable sources) advised against these 4K capture cards. Bummer, but OK and thanks very much for the suggestion.
  11. ncrossy1980
    Hey guys, Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions here. I have a 21:9 3440x1440 LG Ultrawide, and when I record 1080p video and live stream, I use XSplit to capture the upper left corner in a perfect 1920x1080 area where I manually dock my applications in there that I want visible during recording. As shown in the attached image. The real estate outside that region is my personal space whilst streaming, it's really nice to have that. Due to the heavy nature of what I do, some application operations pull the CPU so tightly (4790K @ 4.6) that it leaves Xsplit gasping for air, and I drop thousands of frames at a time whilst live streaming. So I bought a Elgato HD60 Pro capture card, stuck it into a secondary PC, hooked up the HDMI, mirrored the main monitor with the HDMI output and boosh I've got an unsupported 3440x1440 signal going into my capture PC. My plan was to then use Xsplit on the capture PC to crop the 3440x1440 signal to the 1080p region, and broadcast that, but I guess due to the shift in resolution on a received signal, the image degrades to the point that it's totally unusable. So I'm just wondering, does anyone have any advice (if its even possible) to successfully use a 21:9 panel with a secondary capture PC without resorting to nerfing my 3440x1440 panel to 1920x1080? I cannot find a single thread anywhere discussing this issue, which is surprising given the increase in popularity of 21:9! Thanks in advance.
  12. ncrossy1980
    Rig name: I... don't name my PCs? Why would you? CPU: 4790K GPU: MSI GTX 970 4G 32GB Corsair Vengeance
  13. ncrossy1980
    Rig name: Dell Precision T5610 CPU: Xeon E5-2620v2 GPU: AMD FirePro W9100 16GB 8GB ECC RAM
  14. ncrossy1980
    Dammit, funnily enough not a single person in any youtube/written review that I've seen has mentioned the motherboard being a factor in achieving a good clock speed. Thanks for mentioning that. The whole point of me doing this is is to build a cheap system which can outperform a high end system at specific tasks, hence why I'm trying to hit the highest clock speeds, if I'd known that earlier I would have paid for a better board. Thanks again
  15. ncrossy1980
    OK thanks, I understood the concept of the silicon lottery but had no idea it could be the difference between 500MHz worth of overclocking, I figured a bad chip could still at least post on a higher OC but not sustain it. Never mind, cheers for the confirmation.
  16. ncrossy1980
    Fortunately this is just a 'spare' PC, a test bench, so it's not urgent by any stretch. But I'm having ridiculous difficulties getting the G3258 past 4.2GHz, I'm seeing all kinds of guides and reviews saying that they've had it at 4.7GHz on stock cooling yet I can't get this thing anywhere near it. I'm using it on the mATX Asus H81M-Plus board. It's not even a heat issue I don't think, if I put it past 4.3GHz it just won't even boot from cold, WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR. If I put it over 4.4GHz it just doesn't even post. I've tried all kinds of voltages, up past 1.385V all the way down to 1.2V. I've tried setting the Cache Min/Max and manual voltage to recommended values in other guides, I've tried disabled C-States, I've tried XMP profiles, all sorts. I can get a stable 4.2GHz but when I'm being told it should go up to around 4.6-4.7GHz. I at least expect it to boot and post at that and I can sort the heat issues out later if I decide to keep that OC. I also appreciate the silicon lottery theory, but is that such a lottery in that you could be this far out of luck? Some people can get 4.7GHz whilst others are lucky to get 4.2GHz? Surely the tolerances for manufacturing differences should be more tight than that? As you can tell I'm quite new to overclocking, and this isn't helping my learning curve if I'm fighting a battle I can't win! Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  17. ncrossy1980
    Bender is now complete, video uploaded to the channel along with the full set of files for you or anyone to download and 3D print. I've done him as a multi-body solid model so all his pieces can be printed separately within the size limits of a printer, with connections built in to slot and glue together. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lO8cIvBUqPg
  18. ncrossy1980
    So Bender is on route! This was just a quick test, I'm on a laptop in a hotel room so I'll redo it from scratch properly when I'm back at home on my desktop, I'll get this video done and out at the weekend hopefully! Good shout! It isn't tech... err, but it's class, and it's my channel so I can do anything I want haha B)
  19. ncrossy1980
    Excellent, good luck getting started on it! The irony with that is Autodesk had planned to hack up the rendering engine in Inventor for the next release, but the guys who develop Inventor watch my vids and after seeing the ray tracing for the car and seeing what it can do they decided to change course and leave it as it is! Which was awesome to hear. Max is definitely a much better rendering package, you've got iray and third party stuff like Vray which blows Inventor out the water, but Inventor is a dedicated engineering package so it's the best choice for anyone in product design.
  20. ncrossy1980
    I'll keep it under 200mm in height as I think that's the typical size limits on most entry level printers, although I'm sure 3D printers will come with software which will let you scale stuff up or down?
  21. ncrossy1980
    Thanks and yes m8, Self taught whilst I worked for an Autodesk reseller for a long time as well as Autodesk briefly, been an Autodesk instructor and now do a CAD tips channel too.
  22. ncrossy1980
    What plugs?
  23. ncrossy1980
    Ahhhhahahaha dya know what, that's a class idea, I'm all over that
  24. ncrossy1980
    That's mighty kind sir! Won't let you down boss
  25. ncrossy1980
    Click bait alert :huh: :rolleyes: Obviously it isn't going to work like a phone, that's a given, but I've modelled a 1:1 replica of the S6 Edge+ and linked the files in the video description, free to all to do with as you please. Included the original Inventor model, x2 STL files with screen and without screen and a STEP file. I haven't picked a suitable 3D printer yet so I haven't tested this, open to suggestions/alterations from anyone who can print it. If you do decide to head over and watch the video, please do excuse and feel free to skip the introduction, the explanation intro is for the benefit of existing subscribers.
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