B16CXHatch

The N64 is notorious for having a very soft, smeary image. It's a form of anti-aliasing that the system actually applies to the output intentionally. It accomplished what Nintendo wanted for the most part back when it came out but has proven to be less than ideal today. After seeing how good SNES, GameCube, PS1, PS2 and even PS3 can look on a CRT with decent S-Video cables, the N64 was a total let down when I upgraded its cables. It made little difference thanks to the anti-aliasing.
 
However, you saying that it looked OK on a newer TV has me thinking that maybe there is something wrong with the N64 or the way it's hooked up. It's an old system, and it's analog video. It wouldn't be surprising. Otherwise, the N64 tends to look even worse on modern TVs.
 
One thing I would recommend is try switching your A/V cables. Try to make sure you are using a good condition original Nintendo composite cable or, if you TV supports it, a good quality S-Video cable. I know I said it was disappointing earlier, but S-Video does still provide a slightly better image on the N64 vs composite. Just not the big leap of the other systems.

The N64 is notorious for having a very soft, smeary image. It's a form of anti-aliasing that the system actually applies to the output intentionally. It accomplished what Nintendo wanted for the most part back when it came out but has proven to be less than ideal today. After seeing how good SNES, GameCube, PS1, PS2 and even PS3 can look on a CRT with decent S-Video cables, the N64 was a total let down when I upgraded its cables. It made little difference thanks to the anti-aliasing.
 
However, you saying that it looked OK on a newer TV has me thinking that maybe there is something wrong with the N64 or the way it's hooked up. It's an old system, and it's analog video. It wouldn't be surprising. Otherwise, the N64 tends to look even worse on modern TVs.
 
One thing I would recommend is try switching your A/V cables. Try to make sure you are using a good condition original Nintendo composite cable or, if you TV supports it, a good quality S-Video cable. I know I said it was disappointing earlier, but S-Video does still provide a slightly better image on the N64 vs composite. Just not the big leap of the other systems.

I don't use any of the streaming services on any them since I own much newer devices, but it is kinda neat that they still work. I do however still use a PS3 to watch 1080p Blu-rays. It puts out a better image than the PS5 does in my opinion, plus using the PS3 Blu-ray remote is just an infinitely better experience than the PS4 Blu-ray remote and the PS5 Media Remote. I even use a different PS3 hooked up to a CRT for watching DVDs.

Are you getting full system crashes or is just the game crashing? If you are getting full system crashes, then I would definitely suspect overheating. Take the PS5 out of the cabinet and try it if that's the case. The PS5 should give overheat warnings, but I have heard sometimes it won't throw the warning even if it is overheating.
 
About 12 year ago or so, I was having a problem with my PS3 hard crashing while playing Uncharted games. My PS3 was on a shelf in my TV stand that was open at the front but had a closed back with just a small hole for cables. It was overheating. I finished my playthrough with the PS3 on the floor and didn't have any more problems. I later removed the back panel from the stand making it open front and back and never had another issue. Now, I only use TV stands/entertainment centers that are open.
 

Do you care about 4K or 120hz? If not. Series S should be fine. 
 
I can't say for NHL24 but NHLs have always run well with few issues so you should be perfectly fine with an S if you don't care about graphics.
 
I'd say go for the X only because of the disc drive, but given sports games are worthless used after the new one is out you might as well buy it digital anyway

It doesn't matter if it's online of not as download speeds will be restricted regardless as noted by the text stating so.
 
I was only stating the bleeding obvious, so don't go down my throat if you can't read what is on your OWN SCREEN.

Are you talking about the checkerboarding in the sky? Looks like it might be the backlight or something. Maybe something to do with local dimming. Try disabling local dimming on the TV and see if still does it.

Are you using a decent quality HDMI cable that's Premium High Speed Certified (18Gbps 4K60)? Have you tested on any other TV's or monitors?
 
For anything that's supposed to operate at 4K60 or above, I just recommend Zeskit Maya HDMI cables. They're quality, HDMI Ultra High Speed Certified (48Gbps 4K120/8K60), and not obscenely expensive.

I don't use this on the regular, but I have tested it for a little while and it worked fairly decently. Just $30
 
https://www.amazon.com/Playstation-Console-Adapter-Improved-Converter/dp/B07MYVF61Y?ref_=ast_sto_dp
 
It plugs directly into the A/V out on the console and has an HDMI port on the other end. No RCA cables involved.
 

Not gonna go into major detail, but here's the list of systems I own. Nothing's modded. Only parts swaps on a few:
 
Consoles (Anything marked with * is hooked up and ready to play):
NES (Front Loader, had practically my whole life, a bit rough, aftermarket 72-pin)
NES (Front Loader, bought a few years ago, better shape, works better)*
SNES (Original Version)*
Nintendo 64 (Black w/ Expansion Pak)*
Nintendo GameCube (Later Model, Black)*
Nintendo Wii (White, only use to rip Wii games to play on Dolphin)
Nintendo Wii U Deluxe*
Nintendo Switch (Green/Pink Splatoon 2 Bundle)
Nintendo Switch OLED (White)*
Nintendo Switch OLED (Legend of Zelda: Tears of the Kingdom Special Edition)
NES Classic Edition*
SNES Classic Edition*
Sega Genesis Mini*
Sega Genesis Mini II*
SNK Neo Geo Mini (Standard International Version)
SNK Neo Geo Mini (Crystal Samurai Shodown Version)
NEC/Konami TurboGrafx 16 Mini*
The C64 (Full-Size Commodore 64 Replica/Emulator)
The A500 Mini (Commodore Amiga Emulator)
Microsoft XBOX 360 S (250GB, Black)
Sony PlayStation (Original, Gray)
Sony PlayStation 2 (Early Slim, Black, Main)*
Sony PlayStation 2 (Early Slim, Black, Extra)
Sony PlayStation 3 (Late 160GB Slim, Black, Upgraded to 500GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD, Main for PS3 games)*
Sony PlayStation 3 (Early 160GB Slim, Black, Upgraded to 250GB T-Force Vulcan SSD, Secondary for PS1 and PS2 Classics)*
Sony PlayStation 3 (Launch 60GB Fat, Black, Completely original)
Sony PlayStation 4 (500GB, Glacier White Destiny: The Taken King Limited Edition, Upgraded to 500GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD)
Sony PlayStation 4 Pro (1TB, Jet Black, Upgraded to 1TB Crucial MX500 SSD, Used mostly as a streaming box for Bed TV)*
Sony PlayStation 4 Pro (1TB, Black/White Death Stranding Limited Edition, Upgraded to 1TB Crucial MX500 SSD)
Sony PlayStation 5 (Disc Drive Model w/ 1TB Samsung 980 Pro Internal SSD + 1TB Samsung T7 Shield External SSD)*
Sony PlayStation TV*
Sony PlayStation Classic
 
Handhelds:
Nintendo GameBoy (Original, Gray, Failing screen)
Nintendo GameBoy Advance SP (Silver)
Nintendo New 3DS XL (Super NES Edition)
Nintendo New 3DS XL (Black, Damaged Top Screen but still playable)
Sega Game Gear (Bad caps, no image/weak sound)
Sony PSP-3000 (Black)
Sony PlayStation Vita 2000 (Black)
 
I have two "stations". An HD one and and SD one basically. With the exception of the second PS3, everything with HDMI is hooked up to my 50" LCD, and everything else is hooked up to my 27" CRT. Everything is hooked up to the CRT with S-Video, except the NES which is hooked up with composite.
 
I'm the type that never gets rid of anything gaming related. I've only ever sold one console, because I had an extra and GameStop was giving double credit at the time. Outside of throw away games that I got with used consoles, I've only ever sold just a few games.
 
I'm not playing anything at the moment. I'm a bit paralyzed by choice. Games I own and haven't played number in the hundreds probably. I'm debating between Shantae and the Seven Sirens or River City Girls on Switch, Legend of Heroes: Trails of Cold Steel or Ys IX: Monstrum Nox on PS4, or Legend of Heroes: Trails in the Sky or Ys VII on PC (played on my HTPC at my TV with an Xbox controller so it's like a console). The Legend of Heroes games are huge time sinks so I'm thinking of waiting a bit to play them.

That's a BGA-package with a fuckton of pads -- if you have to ask a question like this, then no, you don't have the required expertise to handle it.

I will start this by saying, I adore all my systems. I don't really regret buying any of them... except maybe one but it's a special case.
 
I would say that my 3DS and Vita were disappointments. They just made me realize how much I hate playing anything other than very specific games on portable systems. I could never get myself to sit down and play anything longer on them. Especially my 3DS. My Vita games got a second wind with my PSTV. My PSP I played a lot more because I had it before I had a smart phone or tablet. I still didn't play it a whole lot but I still used it more than the 3DS or Vita. I have barely played my 3DS and Vita in the 6+ years I've owned them and most of it has been Project Diva/Mirai games. My Wii U has seen more use. Despite that, I still love them, and I'm glad I have them.
 
The NeoGeo Mini is kind of a disappointment because it only includes the hard-as-nails home versions of the games instead of free play arcade versions. Also, too many fighting games. I love the actual console itself though. It looks super cool and is a great little collectable.
 
Now for the one I sort of regret buying. An Xbox 360. I bought it long after release. I'm not an Xbox person, but there was one game I really loved that I wanted to play again, plus another I hadn't played but wanted to try. So, I bought a 360 like 3 years ago to play these games. Well, the one I loved got a Xbox One, PS4 and PC re-release like 6 months after I bought the 360 (I immediately bought the limited edition PS4 version) and the other I wanted to play kind of sucked. There just isn't anything else exclusive for it that I want leaving me with no reason to even own it anymore.
 
Oh, and there's one more but it only sort of counts because my expectations were already low before buying it. The PlayStation Classic. I don't think I really have to explain this one. I never even hooked it up. Again, it's just kind of a neat little collectable, namely the box. My original PlayStation didn't come in that cool early box that the PS Classic's is modeled after. It was a later one with a lamer box.

I will start this by saying, I adore all my systems. I don't really regret buying any of them... except maybe one but it's a special case.
 
I would say that my 3DS and Vita were disappointments. They just made me realize how much I hate playing anything other than very specific games on portable systems. I could never get myself to sit down and play anything longer on them. Especially my 3DS. My Vita games got a second wind with my PSTV. My PSP I played a lot more because I had it before I had a smart phone or tablet. I still didn't play it a whole lot but I still used it more than the 3DS or Vita. I have barely played my 3DS and Vita in the 6+ years I've owned them and most of it has been Project Diva/Mirai games. My Wii U has seen more use. Despite that, I still love them, and I'm glad I have them.
 
The NeoGeo Mini is kind of a disappointment because it only includes the hard-as-nails home versions of the games instead of free play arcade versions. Also, too many fighting games. I love the actual console itself though. It looks super cool and is a great little collectable.
 
Now for the one I sort of regret buying. An Xbox 360. I bought it long after release. I'm not an Xbox person, but there was one game I really loved that I wanted to play again, plus another I hadn't played but wanted to try. So, I bought a 360 like 3 years ago to play these games. Well, the one I loved got a Xbox One, PS4 and PC re-release like 6 months after I bought the 360 (I immediately bought the limited edition PS4 version) and the other I wanted to play kind of sucked. There just isn't anything else exclusive for it that I want leaving me with no reason to even own it anymore.
 
Oh, and there's one more but it only sort of counts because my expectations were already low before buying it. The PlayStation Classic. I don't think I really have to explain this one. I never even hooked it up. Again, it's just kind of a neat little collectable, namely the box. My original PlayStation didn't come in that cool early box that the PS Classic's is modeled after. It was a later one with a lamer box.

That's called an RF Modulator.
 
The easiest thing to do is switch to composite cable, but @Vitamanic's solution would be even better assuming it doesn't introduce any kind of input lag. Of course, hooking up to any modern TV is going to introduce some input lag regardless of the connection. That's part of why I keep old CRTs around (that and older systems generally look better on them).

Easiest solution is a HDMI cable with a built in upscaler. Something like this:
 
https://stoneagegamer.com/levelhike-hd-compatible-cable-for-super-nintendo-model-1.html
 
Make sure you don't have the SNES Jr (mini model).
 
There are definitely more elaborate and better ways to go about it, but those cables are by far the easiest plug an play solution that don't cost an arm and a leg.

My daily is a 2016 Honda HR-V EX-L AWD in Milano Red. It's got over 150,000 miles on it, but I've only put about 1,000 of those on there. I picked it up dirt cheap thanks to those miles. Next cheapest HR-V or even Civic that new I could find locally was nearly $5,000 more. Interior is like new minus a small nick above the radio. Exterior looks great at 10-15 feet. Up close, you see all the rock chips and scratches but for 150,000 miles it ain't bad. I did a load of preventative maintenance right after buying it so it runs and drives like new.
 
My other car is a 1996 Honda Civic CX Hatchback in Midori Green Pearl with a B16A2 engine swap from a 99 Civic Si in it. I've had it for over 14 years. It's got 206,000 miles on the body and somewhere around 150,000 on the motor. Transmission? Who knows? It's from a Japanese Civic SiR so it's low-ish at least. There's a big ol' list of mods but I'm not gonna list them right now. It doesn't get driven much due to it needing a bit of work (timing belt) that I'm putting off till after I have foot surgery. Plus the clutch pedal hurts my foot right now (it being a race clutch makes it even worse). It sure is a load of fun though. I want to drive it SOOOO bad but it's probably gonna sit for at least 8-10 more weeks.
 
I just sold my old daily today which was a 2007 Honda Fit Sport in Nighthawk Black Pearl with 196,000 miles. I'm going to miss that car, but now a friend of mine who needed a car has himself something much more efficient and reliable than his old Blazer.

Dude, I just searched .Hack// Quarantine (Vol 4) on eBay and holy shit. Glad I got these like 10-12 years ago.

The soundtrack is fucking killer, I'll totally admit that. Just don't like the way handling feels in it. Always preferred the handling in Gran Turismo and Enthusia lol.
God damn, that's a chunk-a-change for a PS2 game. Then again, the .hack games fetch a lot of money nowadays, least from what I remember.

I'm super proud that I have the original .Hack// Volumes 1-4, mostly complete. The only thing I'm missing is the manual for Volume 1. I have the manuals for the other 3 and the cover art and DVDs for all 4. It was a frickin journey back in the day to get all of them without spending a fortune. My mom came in clutch on Volume 4 though. She doesn't have the slightest bit of interest in video games but heard me talk about looking for it one time and tracked down a copy for me for Christmas several years ago. Of course, she paid a decent chunk for a used PS2 game. They were typically around $10-20 at the time ($30-40 for more desirable games), and she paid close to $100 I think. At the time, $100 for a game, especially a used one, was a stretch for me. Not so much now.
 
I'm also kind proud of having the full Atelier Iris Trilogy and both the limited editions of Mana Khemia and Mana Khemia 2.

Bad caps. They sell recap kits for GameGears. It's an extremely common issue. Mine started doing that years ago.

Bad caps. They sell recap kits for GameGears. It's an extremely common issue. Mine started doing that years ago.

Bad caps. They sell recap kits for GameGears. It's an extremely common issue. Mine started doing that years ago.

Put it on Craigslist or LetGo. We put up an old IBM PC XT 5160 for free on LetGo a couple of years ago and someone fairly local came and took it. They either wanted it for for a store decoration or a sort of museum piece. Can't remember which. Either way, they were putting it on display.
 
If you were a little further south, I'd take it, but I ain't driving to Chicago for TV. Sorry.

Alright. I've fought with this myself. Here's what I did to get it to work.
 
FIRST! You need a USB adapter that's compatible with the PS3. Most are so it shouldn't be a big deal. I have some cheap Orico enclosures and an adapter that came with my old Samsung 840 Evo that all work, however I have one dock that doesn't. Next, get you a partition tool. My recommended tool is MiniTool Partition Magic (and my instructions will be specifically for it). Delete all volumes/partitions from the drive (right click the partitions and click Delete). Next, create a new volume (right click and click Create). HERE'S WHERE I ALWAYS MESSED UP. Not only do you need to set it to FAT32, you also need to set the "Create As" option to LOGICAL instead of Primary. I always did Primary and it would never work. Of course, set File System to FAT32 and basically leave every other option alone then hit OK. Next, hit apply and you should be good to go.

1. On a PS3, an SSD can make a very SLIGHT to practically no difference in load times. Not enough for it to be worth it for that alone. I use SSDs in both mine (and all of my PS4s) but that's primarily for reliability.
 
2. I just use XBOX One controllers for any gamepad-centric PC games. Plug and Play and most games recognize them. Just a note, if you use the wireless adapter, there's some games that won't work right with it, but often they work just fine if you plug the controller in with a USB cable. I play a lot of JRPGs and many, especially smaller, lesser known titles often won't work with the wireless adapter. Don't know why exactly. I think it has something to do with the fact windows treats the adapter as a network device instead of a controller.