Maxxtraxx

One of the more fantastic setups I've seen, that is impressive!

13900KS 6.1Ghz 4.8Ghz 
G.Skill Trident Z 8000Mhz at XMP with its own loop water cooled
4090 Suprim X at 3200Mhz +1500 Memory
3 loops total and 50 fans, one for each major component (GPU, CPU, RAM)
Z790 Apex with TB4 add-on card and AE-5 Plus Sound Card
Rest in the sig
 
Borderline redneck engineering:

Finally got some time to post my own setup. 
 
My main rig that I've running for about 1-1/2 years now. 
 
CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5950X cooled by my 6YO Noctua NH-D15
RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3600 CL18
Motherboard: ASUS X570 Crosshair VIII Dark Hero
Storage: 1TB Samsung 970 EVO SSD, 1TB Samsung 970 EVO Plus SSD,& 2x 1TB WD Blue HDD
GPU: ASUS TUF RX6900XT
PSU: EVGA P2 1600W
Case: Corsair 5000D Airflow
Case fans: 9x Noctua NF-F12
Keyboard: Logitech G513 Carbon Clicky Blue
Mouse: Logitech G502 Hero
Monitor: ASUS TUF VG34VQL1B 34" 165Hz
Speakers: Logitech Z606 5.1 Surround (I can't place the rear speakers behind me due to the room so they are at the corners of my desk not shown)
 

There are 2 options to finding answers apart from guessing:

1:There are Web applications like this one : https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator

2: There is AMD's minimum PSU recommendation for the card you're looking at which comes out to 650watt minimum.

My own personal thoughts for you:

My Personal Build for you: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/

1:  Z790 and 13600k are likely a better choice for most of what you're describing as a use case, the higher clock speeds and comparably high thread counts will work better than the 12700k IMO.

2: Monitors: if possible go 144hz refresh rate with Freesync compatability, HIGH refresh with Freesync is FANTASTIC, the BEST user experience upgrade I've had recently.

3:I'm a big fan of the Very small form factor Lian Li A4, worth checking out, may not be your thing.

4: with DDR5 currently, 6000+ speeds are great for Intel platforms, a little technical here BUT, finding memory with CL30 or CL32 is your best choice while refraining from CL36-36-36. REASON: the 30 and 32 are likely SK Hynix M or A die (likely M) while the 36's are Samsung memory, CURRENTLY the SKhynix memory is the best available, for much information and rambling SEE Buildzoid from Actually Hardcore Overclocking and his video HERE: 

Having limited storage pushes me to complete a game before installing another. 

Overall looks fine, you can always upgrade your CPU down the line if you cant get a better one now.

500Gb might be a bit small? depends on how many games you want installed.

12100f:

Your build looks great, having additional case fans to match the H100i will be good.

HOWEVER: to quote Toms Hardware:

"Most (if not all) 600 series boards have BIOS updates available that add Alder(Raptor) Lake support, but you need to be able to download and install those updates before you try to boot with a 13th Gen Raptor Lake CPU. If you have access to an older Intel 12th Gen “Alder Lake” CPU, you can put the older CPU in the board, boot into and update the BIOS in the UEFI interface (see how to enter the BIOS if you don’t know how to get there), and then you should be good to go. 
But most people buying a Raptor Lake CPU and new motherboard today don’t have a last-gen processor just lying around the house.

if you want to buy a 600 series motherboard to use with a Raptor Lake CPU, your best bet is to buy a model with BIOS Flashback, a feature that allows you to update the BIOS with no CPU installed at all."

I DID NOT see your motherboard on the list of boards with Bios Flashback capability.

you may want to investigate this, and possibly choose a different board or move up to a Z790 board.

Link Here:https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-600-series-boards-for-raptor-lake

You're not stupid, it's a valid question that will be hard to answer without the components in hand to test fitment.

Myself... I would be willing to take the chance that i may have to make some slight modifications to the components that I want with a reasonable expectation that it will end in success.

1mm is not much, looking at the pictures for the gaming x trio it appears that the backplate is the part that protrudes the furthest out in the length of the card. I would be willing to test fit the card and if necessary remove and modify the back plate from the card to shorten the length.

When it comes to sound level in any pc there are a few rules to take advantage of to keep noise down.

1: Reduce power consumption by undervolting or power limiting to lower the amount of heat the PC needs to handle
2: Run fans SLOW, turn your fan curves down till you achieve the sound level that you want, this will inherently mean that temperatures may be slightly higher(see 80-90C) which is perfectly fine for the components but some users don't like temps above 70C
3: the BIGGEST coolers you can fit will help the slow fans dissipate more heat despite the lower airflow.

When it comes to cases this means going one path or the other, Either:
1. a restrictive case that baffles and reduces sound but also restricts airflow
2: a well ventilated case that relies upon SLOW fans and UNrestricted airflow to keep noise and temps down.

I personally prefer the second option as you can choose to either keep noise low via fan speed and reducing power consumption OR you can keep the airflow and then overclock to your hearts content if you start to not care about noise.

Here's a 337 mm 4090 in a 200p max.

No.

Interesting Anandtech article exploring Ecore efficency on the 12900k comparing 8 E-cores against a 7 year old 6700k (4c, 8t): HERE

The results seem to show many CLOSE performance comparisons between the 6700k and the Ecores. I'm not sure if I'm impressed that a 7 year old 4 core/8 thread CPU can keep up with 8 newer Ecores or that the Ecores seem to be a close match for Skylake (which was better than I expected).

Both are great. Some points to consider:

generally the X670 are expensive the B650 are cheaper but both require DDR5 (you could potentially reuse your ddr4 from your old system with z690/h670/b660)
 
Both CPU's are very highly tuned at stock settings
 
the 13900k has Very high peak power draw (not likely an issue while gaming) and also runs hot as a result
the 7950x runs hot but has considerably lower peak power draw
 
both require high performance cpu cooling (recommended 240AIO or greater)
 
Both CPU's are turned up to 11... both run MUCH cooler and draw MUCH less power when turned down from 11 to 10 or 9(on a scale of 1-10) at the potential expense of peak clock frequencies(undervolting and negative PBO offsetting)

7950x seem to peak at about 6000-6400 MHz ddr5 speeds when on 2 dim memory configurations, when running 4 dimms and more capacity the speed drops to below 5000MHz
13900k has a much faster peak memory speeds but faster memory is also more expensive (not sure if more dimms or higher capacity effects the intel as severely)
 
PERSONLLY: coming from a history of cpu's as follows: 2500k --> 4790k --> 6700k --> 9900k --> 7950X
I'm not sold on the actual usefulness of intel's E-cores, I remember (cuz i'm old) when 4 cores was all you ever needed for gaming.... then 8 cores became future proof... will games adopt even more cores in the future? when a game can run on 10 or 12 or 16 threads will the E-cores be a liability?

I'm not interested in Windows 11 yet either... and Intel's thread scheduler to specifically assign tasks to the proper cores(P core vs E core) is not available on Windows 10, so unless you want to assign all cores priority and preference to programs yourself... you're out of luck or stuck with windows 11.

I (obviously) decided that AMD was the preferential choice for me... if more expensive choice, I find myself impressed by the longevity of the AM4 socket and the impressive performance scaling they achieved and this gives me hope that AM5 could be similar(zero hope of this from intel).
 
FOR YOU: both are closely matched and very high performance, get what you want, what fits in your budget, what fits your use case and what makes you smile... Sorry for the long opinion and long non answer.

Not a bad first go! well done

IMO: 360 AIO is a bit overkill, I would lean towards at 240 AIO. a 360 is certainly fine and up to your choice. the Arctic 240 is an excellent AIO.

A 1000 watt psu is also unnecessary, 850watts will cover anything you throw at it, even a 4090 and 13900k

I switched you to a Z690 motherboard to take advantage of the overclocking ability of the 12700k

Check this over and relay your thoughts: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/Z2dqJM

Edit:

Also removed Windows 10 home from your list. IMO Windows 10 pro is the better route. Personally I use a software key site called https://www.kinguin.net/ to purchase a software key for windows 10 pro, Just did this last week when I upgraded, CPU, Motherboard, Memory and SSD and it cost me around $30 US. If you're more comfortable buying a retail key... that's fine too.

Listening to Gamers Nexus Review right now at work. Already looked at Anandtech and Tomsharware and others. One thing that is more of a curiosity than anything else that I'm struggling to find any good info on is this information: Clock Speed vs Active core count (assuming high end cooling) On different work loads.

Everywhere i look i see 5.7GHz max frequency
5.85 GHz PBO
4.5Ghz base

But what are the clocks with differing active core count, at different loads in different applications?
is it 5.7GHz on only 2 cores? what frequency will it run with 4 cores utilized? 8 cores utilized? 12 cores utilized? 16 cores? what if it's less intensively utilized? This is the best i've found thus far.

I was curious about exactly how the Intel 12th gen efficiency cores compare to the performance cores, so I wrote a script that runs Geekbench 5 against each individual core. I chose Geekbench for this test because it offers a nice mix of real-world algorithms rather than an arbitrary synthetic mix of computations. Here are the results for an i7-12700h running in an Asus Vivobook S 14X.
 
Summary of results ----------------------------------------------- Core # 0: Average=1771.00 *** Baseline *** Core # 1: Average=1770.50 vs Baseline: 99.97% Core # 2: Average=1767.33 vs Baseline: 99.79% Core # 3: Average=1749.00 vs Baseline: 98.75% Core # 4: Average=1844.16 vs Baseline: 104.13% Core # 5: Average=1843.66 vs Baseline: 104.10% Core #12: Average=1091.66 vs Baseline: 61.64% Core #13: Average=1097.66 vs Baseline: 61.97% Core #14: Average=1096.50 vs Baseline: 61.91% Core #15: Average=1098.50 vs Baseline: 62.02% Core #16: Average=1097.83 vs Baseline: 61.98% Core #17: Average=1095.50 vs Baseline: 61.85% Core #18: Average=1097.16 vs Baseline: 61.95% Core #19: Average=1096.33 vs Baseline: 61.90% Cores #0-5 are the six native performance cores (hyperthreaded cores excluded); cores #12-19 are the eight efficiency cores. Core #0 is the 100% baseline.

Based on these results the efficiency cores are 62% as fast as the performance cores on a i7-12700h.

Note how cores #4 and #5 are faster than the other four performance cores - these are the "favored cores" on this particular CPU die. See Intel Turbo Boost Max Technology 3 for details.

Here is a link to my GitHub repository if anyone would like to run this test on their setup as well. It runs under Linux.

https://github.com/horshack-dpreview/GeekbenchAutomationTools

I like most of the build.

I would lean towards a Z690 motherboard if possible.

I am also a fan of compact builds. 
So ITX or even compact ATX midtower is my preference, possibly something you would consider?

I love the Fractal Design Meshify 2 Compact, it has no wasted space, great air flow and I've got two 240 AIO radiators in mine along with a large EVGA 3080 FTW3 GPU, it's all close clearances but fits great and keeps my temps down.

For Monitor: AOC CQ27G2 is a 1440p, 144hz, gsync/freesync, VA panel, curved monitor that is a fantastic price, I love the contrast, though if you use the PC in a Very Bright area it may be lacking in peak brightness. but if you don't need a very bright monitor for working in direct sunlight, I can highly recommend this one.

it gives you the ability to OC CPUs, has more SATA ports(depends on the mobo but there will usually be more SATA ports on z690), more chipset PCIe lanes, generally has more expansion options, and most z690 boards have a more robust power delivery
 
every thing in comparison to b660

4000 is pretty high and in the zone of xmp may not work out of the box and you need to tweak some things like volt or timings
 
I suggest taking a look at thaiphoon burner to see what ics you have, its most likely b die and there should be alot of ocing profiles for it online that you can try
 
Personally i would just manually overclock the rams rather than relying on xmp with an internet guide as a reference but not everyone wants to spend a few hours tweaking timings and ram ocing, i suggest increasing the volt by 0.05v over the xmp and see if that helps or not, if that doesnt work increase it again by 0.05v, if that doesnt work try increasing vccio/vccsa abit, safe volt seems to be 1.4v from what ive read though you dont need to go higher unless you are an oc nut like me, use as much as you need and no more, if that doesnt work you may need to f around with other volts tied to ram oc or even the timings if thats whats causing the issue
 
 
Heres a good ram oc guide for ocing or troubleshooting, buildzoid is also a good source for info on ram oc but you may prefer to listen in the background due to his videos usually reaching an hour or more xD

Make sure your BIOS is fully updated, and then try and select the XMP setting. 4000 MHz is pretty high... its possible your CPU just won't do 4000. What happens when you try and set XMP?
 
 

Observations:
 
CPU cooler is way overkill for that CPU. If you're considering upgrading in the future it may be a wise futureproof investment... but definitely overkill for this cpu.
 
You've got a case that can fit a standard ATX motherboard but you're using a micro atx motherboard, It will work fine but a standard sized ATX motherboard has more expansion slots for both PCIE and for M.2 drives though they may be a few bucks more expensive.

Case is Great, have it myself.
 
power supply is adequate. FYI Most of you Highest end GPU's recommend a 750Watt PSU, if you think you'll upgrade this to higher end GPU's you may want to consider just getting a 750Watt PSU to start with.
 
M.2 drive is great
 
GPU is fine
 
Memory is fine.
 
Would reccomend some case fans (2 fans in front to start with, 1 fan in the rear secondarily, finally up to 2 more in the top of the case, it comes with 2 fans, would recommend at least 1 more, possibly 2, some good bang for the buck fans here

thanks alot for your quick answer i really didnt want to buy such an expensive card only to notice i cant use it.

See 1080 strix fan replacement here. It appears that you may be able to remove the fans from the card from the front and it appears the shroud comes off easily as well... The fans you found do appear to be correct.

it is certainly possible that the fans are failing, it may be worthwhile to run some more tests on them such as:
manually ramping the fans to full speed via afterburner and watching and listening for any issues
turning the PC off and checking for any wobble in the fans by touching them lightly with your fingers
re thermal pasting GPU chip worthwhile if fans are running but temperatures are an issue
 
Edit: do not spray anything on the card, the fan bearings are sealed and not able to be lubricated. Spraying anything on the card will have bad consequences.

refurbished just means it was cleaned and maybe has had the thermal paste redone
Yes technically it will last less time than a brand new one but I doubt that by the time it finally does kick the bucket (if it ever does)
it will be long past its usefulness