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Everything posted by Maxxtraxx

  1. For example, from the same website this card HERE. This card uses an internally exhausted cooler with a much larger heat sink for potentially better cooling. it does exhaust the heat inside the case so you may need more fans or ventilation to keep the rest of the case cool but it will allow for more overclocking and be quieter. The card that you linked is fine however. It will produce more noise but it has the benefit of not pushing all of the hot exhaust air into the case and instead pushes it out the back of the card. It will work fine but these "Blower" style cards usually run hotter and have lower clockspeeds as a result. BUT they do not heat up the inside of the case if you have limited airflow or do not desire to add additional airflow/fans. Just a thought. Good work gathing all the information you needed to make an informed decision!
  2. It appears that you're all set to go ahead and get the card. according to the EVGA product page HERE that PSU (EVGA 600 BQ)has 2 8pin pcie cables available. Congrats! post again when you get the card installed and up running and tested, we'd like to see the finished product and hear how the install went and what you think of the upgrade. One final thought. If that's the card you want, then go for it! But there are other options with better coolers for likely a similar price that you may want to consider.
  3. The "back panel" is the side opposite of the panel you removed to see the motherboard, it must be removable because you can see the power cables that are run behind the motherboard. the back panel is not the rear of the machine where the power, usb, and video cables plug in but is instead the panel behind the motherboard.
  4. Hmm, not what we're after. On the opposite side of the case from the side panel that you removed to photograph the motherboard is another panel. remove that "back" panel and you'll have better visibility of the PSU, the PSU information sticker might be visible with the removal of the back panel. The image here shows the PSU information sticker on the side of the PSU. In this case, indicating a 650W psu along with some power rail information. unfortunately unless you know the make and model of the PSU there is no other way of telling the Wattage without finding the information sticker on the PSU itself. if the sticker is not visible after removing the back panel you may need to remove the 4 screws that hold the PSU in the case, these screws are visible in the two above images, with those removed the psu can be gently moved and reoriented to find a wattage indication.
  5. I'm seeing PSU recommendations for a 2080super of around 550w minimum with a recommendation of 600-650. So if your PSU hits these marks you should be all set. if it's under powered it may still work if it has the connectors but you risk overdrawing the PSU which could cause system shutdowns/instability or potentially trip safety features in the PSU or potentially cause it to catch fire in a rare worst case scenario.
  6. PCIe connector: 6+2pin, when the 6 and 2 are combined they can be plugged into an 8 pin power connector, the 6pin without the +2 pugged in is the second connector you need, it may or may not have the additional 2pin hanging off the side. in total you need 1 8pin(6+2pin works) and 1 6pin PCIe connectors available.
  7. 1: are the PCIe connectors you need there 2: checking the PSU(power supply) wattage rating that is on the information sticker found on the PSU. you may be able to find that sticker by removing the back panel of the computer which may make the PSU visible to find that sticker.
  8. only concerns still being available PCIe power cables and enough PSU wattage.
  9. yes, that card will fit. your current card takes up 2 vertical slots as the new card will and there is plenty of clearance for card length inside the case. the final questions are: does your power supply have enough wattage to meet the new card's needs. does the power supply have PCIe power cables to match: one 8 pin connector and one six pin connector. from the picture i can see that the cable currently plugged into the card is a 6+2 pin cable(so an 8 pin), so verify that you have another 6pin PCIE connector available to power the new card and you should be mostly ready to go.
  10. can you post a picture of the front of the case and of the motherboard area after removing the side panel.
  11. Without knowing the case your build is in we cannot say for sure if this card will fit... that being said, your motherboard appears to be a standard ATX form factor and the blower style card you have listed will fit in the majority of ATX midtower cases, it's a two slot standard length card and is the most "standard" sized card you'll find.
  12. Your cheapest upgrade is an i7-8700k and a 2070super/2080/1080ti/2080super, both are just drop in upgrades with the least amount of headache required the least additional replacements to support them. 9700k is great but does carry the recommendation of a z390 board... it's the only officially supported board. and that will cost you money to replace. I'm also asuming you are running at least 8 or 16gb of DUAL channel 3000mhz ram.
  13. FPS is a fine metric for understanding raw GPU power but you're not interested in FPS you're interested in Frametime, this is what causes stuttering, when one frame takes 10x or 20x longer to produce, this causes a pause in the fluidity of the motion and picture. The end goal of this conversation is to help you pinpoint the cause of that stuttering. Something, is causing a momentary bottleneck that is starving the GPU of the information it needs to produce the next image/frame for display, it's only a few miliseconds in length but it does ruin the experience. that bottleneck could be: GPU clock instability(not likely, since your only around 1.85Ghz) CPU thermal throttling(not likely, since your temps seem good) System Memory instability... if you're truly running 4000mhz system memory speed, that's very high and I feel dropping that down to 3200mhz as a dignostic test would be very helpful: also, system memory instability is Extremely hard to diagnose with charts/graphs/ect, but dropping the speed is one of the easiest ways to eliminate memory clock instability as a cause. SSD resource fetching, if the SSD is having issues collecting the resources requested by the program from system storage that will certainly cause issues, the easiest ways i've seen to diagnose this is to monitor SSD transfer speeds to spot any significant drop offs, also to install the games that are having issues onto another SSD to eliminate the drive as a culprit. registry/pathing errors that direct the system to the wrong spots on the drives to find the information being requested. trying to connect the frametime spikes with a spike or dip in ssd transfer speed or cpu usage spikes is a helpful metric but will not be helpful in finding system memory that is volatile. finally... a clean install of windows can do wonders for system stability... its like cleaning a room after removing all the furniture, no matter how much you clean, you will not get more than the superficial dirt unless you start with an empty room.
  14. there will be almost zero appreciable performance difference between the two cards, cooling will be very similar, the primary difference is aesthetics and dimensions. the performance ability will be more determined by silicon lottery and therefore to an extent, overclocking.
  15. some images that are also necessary for further diagnosis, graphs showing the following during a gaming session in which the symptoms are present: frametimes in ms (found in afterburner) framerate also in afterburner system memory speed, usage ect in task manager disk transfer speeds also in task manager
  16. I see what you've said, i say that still images of a fluid gaming problem are very bad at providing a reliable context for diagnosis.
  17. Hmm, difficult problem. Your description does indicate a possible problem... anything from an overheating cpu/gpu(redo your thermal pastes? or try another cpu cooler to eliminate an AIO failure?) to a dying component. What would I be doing? 1. analyze suspected gaming performance against benchmarks for the games using similar hardware to see if your system is definitely low on performance. 2. if above proves true, checking GPU clocks and temperature, checking cpu clocks and temperature checking ram speed and amount checking SSD read/write speeds (i've had multiple mechanical drives fail with very low read/write speeds, it can happen with solid state as well) reseating all mechanical connections, CPU, Memory, power cables, PCIe peripherals, ect. 3. Reinstalling windows after backing up information and then wiping drives 4. if the above still proves to be unsuccessful, i would then start swapping out suspected components one at a time with known good parts, hopefully by using parts i have on hand or borrowed from a friend or possibly purchasing an upgrade i really wanted anyway. beyond this, without being there in person, i cant think of any other way to assist.
  18. My Opinion: with a 6800k or a 3770k I see no problem with a 2070super/2080/1080Ti/2080super being an excellent 1440p120hz+ setup, I use a 1080Ti for 1440p 144hz and I enjoy it very much. you may see some CPU bottlenecking on newer titles that can use Higher core counts reliably... however IMO most games on which high refresh rates are very desirable are often less demanding due to their fast paced competitive nature over astonishing graphics and physics.
  19. Glad to hear there are others with a sense of ownership for their vehicles, take care of them and repair of the vehicles themselves. Most of my GPU purchases have been via craigslist, meet in person, test the card, inspect the card and buy if everything checks out. 2 or 3 have been ebay. I agree there is an unknown factor and less accountability that requires more checks before cash is exchanged. Also, please forgive my first sentence in the previous post, I was annoyed and I let it affect what I wrote negatively, I was classless and unkind.
  20. You are welcome to your opinion... but proclaiming yourself the smartest person that you know on a given subject is a good way to ensure others have a low opinion of you. As a automotive mechanic of 12 years who has owned nothing but used cars averaging over 100k miles my entire driving and working life and also having handled 80% of the above listed used GPU purchases in person and not online while using due diligence and common sense my personal actual experience is contrary to yours in both matters. Most buying used done online I would propose is done on ebay? which I have also less frequently done, ebay does have buyer protections in place. Nothing is perfect, including new parts, but common sense, due diligence and reasonable protections are all part of the game. I do agree with your opinion on buying the GPU that OP is most comfortable with.
  21. My AOC monitor is Gsync compatable but is not on Nvidia's recommended Monitor list and it works flawlessly. So my experience has been excellent.
  22. Waiting is a valid option. FYI you could be waiting till Q3 or Q4 of this year to get Nvidias new cards. I'm currently very happy with my card and the current RTX cards are not a compelling upgrade for me... lots more price for not much more performance, IMO. If you're willing to wait for the new cards there will be more options: 1. the new cards will be available if you want them and they're not sold out. 2. current RTX used cards will drop in price 3. 1000 series GTX cards will drop even more in price. If you're not willing to wait, get the best single card that you like, that fits your budget and does what you want.
  23. Never buy a used car because you do not know why the person is selling the car. Never buy a used bike because you do not know why the person is selling the bike. Never buy a used xyz because you do not know why the person is selling the xyz. You're free to your own opinion, as am I. I've bought nothing but used GPU's since my last new purchased card a GTX970. so... gtx760(x2), gtx980(x2), gtx980ti(x3), Titan X, gtx1080(x2), gtx1070(x2), gtx1080Ti, gtx1060 6gb(x2), gtx1060 3gb. all of them have performed flawlessly like the GTX1080Ti currently in my system on a 240mm AIO, some are still in my some friends pc's and some were put into systems that I sold at a later date and some were sold to upgrade to a better card. Proper due diligence is necessary when purchasing anything used, but to make an absolute blanket statement like that is an opinion with personal reasons for it (which is fine) but not necessarily rooted in fact and reality. To the OP: 1. buy the card you want for the reasons you want it.(performance in your game choices, brand, styling, RGB, cooler performance, personal preference, ect) 2. A used card can be a great deal, due diligence is best practice. See the card perform in games, check temps under load, visibly inspect the card, ask why they're selling. Used 1080Ti's in my area, Philadelphia/Allentown PA I've seen 1080Ti cards recently sell for as low as $300-350 usd (IMO that's a great price). 3. I like Nvidia cards, I've owned 1 ATI card... a long time ago. I love that AMD pushes the market pricing(nvidia) down into reality with competition. I don't love the seemingly semi common problems: driver, black screen, flickering and quality issues with the 5700/5700xt have been plagued with recently. Edited below for more info: 4. FYI: I've recently been playing mostly AC odyssey, and Overwatch at 1440p with a 144hz freesync/gsync monitor on my 1080Ti clocked at 2ghz with AIO water cooler with a 9900k@5ghz, 3800mhz 2channel ddr4, and NVME ssd. AC odyssey with ultra settings runs primarily in the 60-70fps range, Overwatch at ultra settings will run at 144fps with some drops to 120fps.
  24. Buying a new GPU to troubleshoot is... one way to do it. While playing PUBG: what is your GPU utilization percentage? what is your GPU temperature? what is your GPU boost speed? what is your CPU clock speed and temperature?