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Minotaur10

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About Minotaur10

  • Birthday Oct 10, 1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    UK
  • Occupation
    RMA Technician

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-7700K @ 4.8GHz
  • Motherboard
    ASUS Strix Z270-E
  • RAM
    32GB Corsair Vengeance 2133MHz
  • GPU
    EVGA GeForce GTX 1080Ti FTW3
  • Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Pro M
  • Storage
    WD Blue 500GB 3D NAND M.2 w/ 32GB Intel Optane + 500GB Samsung 840 SSD + 4TB WD Black + 4TB WD Green
  • PSU
    Corsair RM850X
  • Display(s)
    AOC AG271QG + AOC Q2577W
  • Cooling
    Corsair H110i
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G910
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502
  • Sound
    Sennheiser HD518
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

831 profile views
  1. Hi there,

    Have you found a solution to your Xonar AE switching issue? I've just bought the same model and it is very problematic to open the app every time, and manually switch between speakers and headphones...

    Cheers

    1. Minotaur10

      Minotaur10

      Never found a solution I'm afraid, it looks like there isn't any way to control it via command line or anything like that. I have given up and instead use a different sound card (i.e. realtek or nVidia etc.) to have a separate device to switch to in the Windows sound menu.

    2. batko90

      batko90

      OK, thank you for your reply. I have written to ASUS about that issue, they read my complaint, but I don't know if there are going to do something about it.

  2. Update: Went back and applied a fresh coat of thermal paste. Looks like my first application was slightly short of covering the whole IHS. I've made sure that the new paste fully covers the IHS and I have removed the top dust filter on the case. With the same 4.8GHz OC I now have average temps in the 65-70°C range and occasional spikes up to 80°C. Thanks for the help @Quadrum and @NelizMastr
  3. @Quadrum Thanks for the suggestion, I still have some Arctic MX-4 lying around at home. I'll try a new application and see if that helps. If not I'll change the cooler to a H115i @NelizMastr I haven't de-lidded the CPU. I bought it towards the end of last year so it's still in warranty right now if it blows up. I'd rather wait until the end of this year when it's out of warranty support from Intel before I try anything like that.
  4. Not sure if this is the best place to put this but it's still technically liquid cooling. So, I have my i7-7700k overclocked on the ASUS Z270-E motherboard (BIOS 1302) to 4.8GHz @1.25V and I'm having some trouble with the temperatures that I'm seeing from my Corsair H110i cooler. Typical loads and stress tests put the average temperature at around 80°C with the occasion spike up to 88°C. It has been rock steady as an overclock but yesterday I had to force restart my system when playing Monster Hunter: World (system fully locked up) I have no idea what temperature the CPU reached whilst I was gaming as I have had this OC for months. When I restarted my system I got a BIOS error for CPU temperature. Looking in the BIOS my CPU temperature was still up at 61°C with a water temperature of 43-45°C (from cold boot this is usually around 28°C). Admittedly I had my cooler set to the quiet setting so 2300rpm on the pump and 1100-1800rpm on the fans (Corsair ML140 pros) depending on load. For now I have reduced my overclock to 4.6GHz @1.2V to be safe followed by setting the pump to performance (2800rpm) and my temperatures went down to 70-75°C under Monster Hunter load (monitored via HWinfo64 on second screen). Do these temps look like a potentially failing pump to you. If you reckon it's on its way out do you have any recommendations on coolers to replace it with. Additional info: Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M (glass) 2x140mm intake fans (provided with case) EVGA 1080TI FTW3 GPU No other exhaust fans apart from CPU cooler. If you need any more info I'd be happy to share what I can remember.
  5. It should be fine until it reaches 85+°C. Something weird is definitely going on if it's downclocking at that temperature.
  6. I had it once where two different revisions of HyperX fury RAM didn't want to work with all 8 sticks installed but they were the same model. Had to swap some out to a different revision to get it to work.
  7. IF (<-geddit) you're looking for just the main experience then it'll be the re;birth trilogy followed by megadimension. So far those are the main story games with most of the others being spin-offs.
  8. Perhaps the GPU isn't running in it's full power mode. I know for example when playing less demanding games the GPU won't boost or run at full power because it simply doesn't need to. Is there a way for you to force the GPU to run in it's maximum performance mode?
  9. You won't need to use any adapters or anything, they'll work straight out of the box just plugging them in.
  10. I'd increase your storage. Getting something like a 4-6TB HDD for the raw files on whatever you're working on will be a godsend. Especially if you plan on having more than one or two games installed.
  11. He'd also have to buy a new motherboard as the H110M is an Intel chipset motherboard.
  12. I'd recommend a CPU upgrade to a 7th gen i5. Just double check that you BIOS has support for 7th gen chips before installing.
  13. Sounds like the GPU may be failing, especially since you've already tried it with a new Windows installation. Take a look at your RAM too, memory issues can cause this sort of thing too.
  14. My personal recommendation is 1440p 144Hz, no compromises and still possible to get that out of most games with a decent GPU.
  15. A realtively cheap GPU would be your best option. If you're not looking to game or anything you should be OK running 4K 60Hz on a GT1030 or GTX1050
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