DrMacintosh

I think that's a mouse.

Can't you just try it out? Or does your router / access point not support it currently?
 
What is the ip address you are using?

Inkjets suck. I have a Brother B&W laser printer that I fire up once in a blue moon. It's great.

Inkjets suck. I have a Brother B&W laser printer that I fire up once in a blue moon. It's great.

They're using Final Cut Pro, it will work with any hardware Apple supports. Just as @DrMacintosh noted, the dedicated en/decoders onboard M series chips make them far, far faster than brute forcing it with Intel/AMD hardware (even in brute force, pretty sure M chips are still faster by a good margin). Especially in Final Cut, which is Apple's home turf. 

I'd honestly sell that machine and look at a 13" M2 MacBook Pro. You could honestly get away with a 15" M2 MacBook Air, but you'll want the fan built into the Pro for sustain renders and large projects.
https://www.apple.com/shop/buy-mac/macbook-pro/13-inch
 
If you get any upgrades and budget is a concern, get more memory first. You can always edit off of external storage.
 
The hardware accelerated video encoders/decoders are way faster than the ones in traditional dGPUs today.  Here's a demo of the 13" M2 MacBook Pro:
 

How much is the enclosure + GPU? You'd likely be better served by selling the current MBP, and putting that + the eGPU cash towards a 16" M2 Macbook Pro. 

That 14" is really appealing

A 3060 seems overkill for streaming a 1080p camera. Couldn't you get away with an igpu, eg 5600g?

For example, a battery replacement can trigger BitLocker to freak out, but cloning the OS drive to a new drive might not. It's an incredibly inconsistent utility. 
 
I had a laptop with two drives, an NVMe SSD and a 2.5" HDD. Neither were encrypted and then I enabled BitLocker. On the next reboot the machine could no decrypt the 2.5" HDD and stopped the machine from booting until I removed the HDD. Thankfully it was blank and I was able to format the drive, disable BitLocker on the laptop altogether, and add the HDD back in. 

For example, a battery replacement can trigger BitLocker to freak out, but cloning the OS drive to a new drive might not. It's an incredibly inconsistent utility. 
 
I had a laptop with two drives, an NVMe SSD and a 2.5" HDD. Neither were encrypted and then I enabled BitLocker. On the next reboot the machine could no decrypt the 2.5" HDD and stopped the machine from booting until I removed the HDD. Thankfully it was blank and I was able to format the drive, disable BitLocker on the laptop altogether, and add the HDD back in. 

Synology or QNAP (which I prefer).
 
Also if you don't want to buy hardware but have a cheaper option you could look at other Azure storage options that are cheaper than the SharePoint per GB cost.

Plug the old drive back in and write down the BitLocker Key or copy it to a USB drive. If you already formatted the old drive and can't boot from it, your data is gone since you don't have the key.
 
Format the new SSD in another computer that doesn't have BitLocker on and fresh install in that case.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with doing this. There won't be any input lag as long as your keyboard and mouse are plugged into the device directly. Though I recommend unplugging it from the wall when you aren't using it to reduce the strain on the battery.

The other option might be to just remove the battery if easy/possible and then just run the laptop directly off wall power

There is absolutely nothing wrong with doing this. There won't be any input lag as long as your keyboard and mouse are plugged into the device directly. Though I recommend unplugging it from the wall when you aren't using it to reduce the strain on the battery.

Thank you both! Will look into the mac's instead!

8 is already a plenty for solely Plex.
 
Refurbished Mac mini Apple M2 Chip with 8‑Core CPU and 10‑Core GPU (A$849.00)

I would seriously consider an M2 Mac mini. The power and power efficiency in such a small, cool, and quiet computer can't be understated. Plex supports hardware accelerated Transcoding and Apple Silicon is simply unrivaled when it comes to video hardware acceleration. 
 
This is an video based on an M1 Mac mini, M2 only improves things from here:
What you have to consider is storage, you need an external solution of some sort. I recommend a 4 bay DAS. I personally bought the OWC Mercury Elite Pro Quad and love it: 
https://www.amazon.com/OWC-Mercury-Elite-Storage-Enclosure/dp/B09SC124GS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1581X4AHTIT17&keywords=owc+mercury+elite+pro+quad&qid=1686625507&sprefix=owc+mercury+elite+pro+quad%2Caps%2C230&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0
 
Of course individual drives will work, they are just messy. 
 

100% on-line

You were correct, my reply was updated. 

Should you buy an OLED display that is also a computer monitor? Absolutely not. OLED as a technology is simply not viable for use cases that require static UI elements.  The following video is specifically regarding TVs, but the underlying technology is the same and the reality of burn in is the same.
 
 
I would personally not buy a OLED display on a computer, and only on a TV if all I ever did with the TV was watch movies/shows (specifically not cable or news/game shows) for a few hours a day max. 

That "Gen2" that you are referring to is actually just the USB standard that the enclosure uses, not the PCIe interface speed. The enclosure is USB 3.1 Gen2 which is theoretically up to 10Gbps (1.25 GB/s). The Crucial M.2 NVME SSD I recommended can go up to 3.5GB/s in an ideal workload. The drive will be bottlenecked, but not in any meaningful way considering the cost to removing the bottleneck is more than the drive is worth and the extra performance you would gain by getting an expensive thunderbolt M.2 enclosure is minimal. 

Absolutely. NVMe SSDs are so cheap these days. I recommend this combination of parts:
SSD: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B25LZGGW/ref=twister_B0B5FJCDGT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-NVMe-Enclosure-Gbps-Support/dp/B08G14NBCS/ref=sr_1_6?crid=FFMA8B61HGSO&keywords=m.2+nvme+ssd+enclosure&qid=1686524105&sprefix=m.2+nvme+ssd+enclosure%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-6
 
For compatibility between Mac and Windows machines, you'll have to format the SSD as exFAT.

Hello! I recently bought a 2023 MBP 14" with a 512GB SSD, and it's more than enough for my use case. However, I'll travel overseas soon and I'm not sure I'll have a constant internet connection, so I'd like to store stuff to watch as well as the photos and projects I'll work on there. 
 
My idea was to buy an M.2 SSD and an enclosure for it (is that how it's called?) instead of a classic external SSD and get one of those attachments that you stick behind the laptop, so the drive isn't just sitting there. I just learned that those attachments existed, and believe it or not I prefer "customizing" my laptop like that instead of adding a bunch of stickers. 😋
 
I have a few questions about this: do you recommend going for an M.2 and an enclosure, or am I completely wrong and a "normal" SSD is better? If I go for the M.2, what kind of connectivity should I be looking for, if I'm to use the drive on my MBP as well as my Windows desktop (it has USB 3.0 and C ports)? Is it easy to install and run apps directly from that external drive?
 
Thank you all for your help!