DrMacintosh

Yes, turn it off. Traditional LCD monitors do not have near enough brightness, backlight uniformity, and black levels to actually be HDR. You need an OLED monitor or a mini LED monitor. SDR is enough.

Not only go you need a system, but you're going to need storage. How big is your library currently? How big you foresee it getting? This really determines what kind of system you are looking for. 

I had an R5 2600 as well until I upgraded to my current R7 5700X. The improvement is huge in loading times and initial start up. Gaming performance is a bit improved as well, but I did not upgrade my GPU, so I'm always GPU limited now.

The MacBook will negotiate how much power it needs with the power brick, assuming the brick is USB power delivery compliant. 

Hello all, so we're working for a company that sends emails whenever a certain button is clicked in a program to mark when we are finished with a site. Previously this worked, but now the emails are not being delivered at all. I discovered that the reason is because of DMARC. Exchange is not delivering their emails because the sender does not pass DMARC verification and has a DMARC policy of reject.

I have informed them that their security settings are messed up, but who knows if they will fix them and will instead shift the responsibility onto me. If that's the case, is there a rule I can create to allow emails from their specific domain to bypass the DMARC checks and send the emails along to their intended recipients?

If you're mixing and matching drives. SHR is the only way. SHR2 allows for 2 drives to fail and offers the same storage as RAID 10 in a 4 bay NAS. In a 6 bay NAS, SHR2 gives you another drive of capacity, but you can still only loose 2 drives. 

https://www.synology.com/en-us/support/RAID_calculator?raid=SHR_2|RAID_10

Supporting the ability for x86 computers to run Android apps requires there to be a demand for that, and there simply is no demand. This type of thing also requires active support rather than just being a byproduct of your PC running the same architecture as your phone (like Apple Silicon and the iPhone).

1 minute ago, Brownhorn111 said:

Anyways should I pick MBR or GPT for the formatting?

whatever the default was, but generally pick GPT.

If you can see it in the BIOS, that means the drive is working, but you need to initialize it. Open Disk Management on your PC, scroll down until you see the drive. It should show up as a black "unallocated" volume. Right click it and you should be able to format the drive, name it, and assign it a drive letter.

NAS Compares has some coverage of these:

36 minutes ago, starsmine said:

its how computers work at a fundamental level. 

And making devs responsible for how computers work at a fundamental level is exactly why there are so many security vulnerabilities. 

Back when I was taking programming in JC, the concept of how C++ handled memory didn't make any sense. I mean, it made sense in how it worked, but why it worked that way didn't make any sense. Who the hell wants pointers?

Crucial P3 is cheap and will be plenty fast. If you have access to a Microcenter, get their Inland 2TB drive.

Simply download Malwarebytes and run a scan. It's free.

Check both ends of your connection. Try a different cable. 

Hi all! So I noticed a few weeks ago that my home network would “crash” occasionally whenever I would try to stream content via Plex on my local network. My client is a 2nd Gen AppleTV 4K.

One behavior was: After starting playback, the content would load, but shortly after my server and home network would go offline. All devices would loose connection until my router came back online. The routers would not “reboot” per se, at least according to the status LEDs, but they completely lost connection.

Another behavior was: Playback would start fine, but usually after a few minutes, playback would stutter and a “your connection to the server is not fast enough” message would appear. Sometimes it would stabilize, other times it would just lag and crash the network again.

Server: 2018 Mac mini running Plex Media Server v.1.87.2.87-87488d5a

Router: 2x Linksys Velop MX4200

Anyway, the solution seems to have been to ENABLE “Priority By Device” in my Linksys Smart Wifi App. Assigning my server to the priority list seems to have completely stabilized my network. I watched Oppenheimer (4K @ ~45Mbps), an episode of Bobs Burgers, and am currently watching South Park while typing this. The network appears completely stable.

tldr: If you have a Linksys router and your network is crashing when watching Plex, add your server to the “Priority By Device” list in your Linksys Smart Wifi App.

5 minutes ago, SImoHayha said:

snip

So, there isn't one. Got it. OP asked for a Microsoft/Windows equivalent to those apps. Microsoft does not ship a DAW or video editing tool. You have to get alternatives from 3rd party devs. Microsoft also does not include an offline office suite. Windows is very much a "pay up or shut up" OS for most consumers. You just bought or built your brand new PC and you can't do any work with it out of the box. 

Is there any particular reason you need 4K displays? 1440p is the sweet spot imo. 1440p at 27" has a PPI of ~109 which qualifies as a retina display from a normal viewing distance (about 30").

3 hours ago, Cocococo said:

You do know how much placebo there is in "telling" the difference between lossless and compressed music right?

No, because the difference in quality is entirely noticeable to anyone with a critical ear.

3 hours ago, Cocococo said:

People with Hifiman HE1000's and thousand dollar dac's struggle to tell the difference between well mastered compressed music and true lossless.

Perhaps older people with failing hearing. A well mastered track is incredibly important, but if that master gets shoved down the Spotify pipeline, its going to sound worse than at full lossless quality on Apple Music, it just is. While 256kbps is perfectly fine (this was the previous standard for iTunes purchases), and most won't notice a difference, there is improvement to be had, and Apple and Tidal offer that improvement as part of there service.

3 hours ago, Cocococo said:

Your iPhone dongle and M50X's are not going to do anything better

Except they are doing significantly better than someone not streaming at 16Bit/92Khz, and I didn't have to pay anything extra to get that experience, I already had the equipment and the audio quality was a free upgrade.

What you must realize is that Lossless Audio is no longer a feature used to upsell consumers, it's just the standard for streaming audio in 2024. Or at least it is if you are using a real music streaming service.

11 minutes ago, Cocococo said:

Honestly lossless isn't something you should worry about until you've spent thousands of dollars on some crazy high-end equipment

Except you don't need high end equipment to get a listening experience that is significantly greater than Spotify or YouTube. A $9 adapter and a nice pair of wired headphones is all you actually need to have a superior experience to those options. If you want to splurge, $250 will get you a really great paid of over-ear headphones and a decent USB DAC capable of 24Bit/192Khz.

If you want lossless audio, your two real options are Tidal and Apple Music. Apple Music has an iOS, Android, Mac, and PC app, all of which can playback lossless audio. To do that, you'll need to be using wired headphones. You'll also need a dedicated DAC (can be connected via USB) to playback Hi-Res Lossless (ALAC up to 24Bit/192KHz), at least on an iPhone. Most devices, flagships anyway, should be able to playback lossless 24Bit/48KHz files natively.

The way I listen is my iPhone 13 Pro Max with the Apple Lighting to 3.5mm audio jack adapter connected to my Audio Technica ATH-M50X headphones. My lossless quality is set to 24Bit/48KHz because the apple audio adapter (Lighting and USB-C) support up to that bit rate.

With iPhone 15, the USB-C port allows you to use almost any DAC you want, assuming it works with iOS.

On my PC I have a little USB audio dac that can do the full 24Bit/192Khz quality.

Do you have a screen protector installed and/or is night shift on?

• Roku is cheap and works, the cost is it spies on your home network and there are ads in the home screen.
• AppleTV is expensive ($129), but the performance is unrivaled. Only really works if you have at other Apple devices.
• Nvidia Shield is the only Android streaming box out there worth anything, but its hardware is old, though its software has been getting updates.

I recommend this guy for anything NAS related.

Purchasing extra SharePoint storage through Microsoft is crazy expensive, its $0.20/GB/m. So for 350GB, that's an additional $70 per month on the M365 invoice. But if they absolutely need it, at least temporarily, follow these steps:

Go to the M365 Admin Center -> Go to Billing -> Purchase Services -> Click Add-Ons in the "View by Category" section -> scroll to the bottom and click the Details button for "Office 365 Extra File Storage" -> Connect with your subscription -> Purchase as many licenses as you need GBs, in this case, at least 350 licenses.

There may be options to increase your available storage via third party vendors, but I know we didn't pursue that option in my office. Instead I deployed a Synology NAS and Synology Drive to host our archive of cold data, thus freeing up about half of our 1TB SharePoint storage. Synology NAS devices running DSM 7.0+ also have access to a program called Active Backup for M365 which can backup your whole M365 tenant, including SharePoint, OneDrive, and emails.