T3STY

I will probably get banned for this, both here and there, but maybe someone will have a good laugh at it. I'll just leave this here... https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/hey-microsoft-can-you-please-stop-f-u-cking-with/5e6e2bd6-e5d1-4b75-99be-11b9f73f2684

Another update: Microsoft edge does not work. It would not start at all. Internet explorer won't let me see the chrome download page because "this site works better with edge". Why... Why you do this to me, Microsoft...

Update: I tried sfc /scannow, no luck, it said that could not repair the system. Same if started from an Windows install USB drive. Multiple other troubleshooting options from the troubleshooting menu, failed. Some other solutions from the web failed as well. So i had to go the hard way. Made a backup of important data, and proceeded to reinstall Windows. After installation, everything went fine, installed windows updates, no issues. I then ran the manufacturer's Drivers disc (ISO in a small secondary partition), just to verify if there were any missing drivers. Indeed, there were some realtek ones (networking related), and some AMD system drivers (i guess these are the equivalent of Intel's chipset drivers). Missing? Let's get them installed. Have i never done that... After the installation, a reboot was required. On reboot, the pc has completely lost the ability to login into windows. The login screen appeared, there was a "login" button, but every time i pressed it, a small loader appeared, and then the login sleep screen would slide back down. Safe mode same. Again, sfc /scannow failed. But this time i was lucky to find a system restore point from before i installed the latest windows updates. Did the restore (unfortunately, i had to setup a user account again, go through the "windows is preparing the system for you" part too), and now the system has been up and running for the past 2 hours, with no issues. So yeah, sorry, long story, unpleasant adventure at the most inappropriate time (it's 5:15AM, my sister in law needs this laptop at 7:00AM today), and definitely not a nice experience. But at least i managed to get it working again. Stilll a better situation than Linus removing the entire desktop environment in Linux while installing Steam though Have a nice day guys, i wish you to never have to deal with these issues.

Hello I need urgent help with the issues in the title, on a laptop device, an ASUS M515D. The first issue is the keyboard. It does not work on any windows interface elements such as the search bar, the WiFi password input, Settings app, and mostly anything that deals with the Windows UI. The keyboard does work on the classic Win32 apps. Shortcuts like CTRL+Shift+Esc. Win+X or Win+R also work. Typing in Edge works. Desktop and explorer also work (arrows to move selection, ect.). EDIT: The on-screen software keyboard utility from windows presents the exact same issues. And no, there are no stuck keys on the keyboard (typing in notepad works fine) In safe mode, the keyboard works correctly in every place, including those mentioned above as not working. What i have tried until now: -Device Manager > Keyboard > uninstall device, remove driver, manually select driver - Disabled start-up softwares (Messenger, Teams, and a few others) - Tampering with dubious registry keys in HKLM > SOFTWARE > Control > CurrentControlSet (can't remember exactly which keys ) - Disabling fast boot - Uninstalled antivirus software (BitDefender free) - changed Language input settings to both fixed language or auto switching (EN-US, RO-ro) - Settings > Accessibility > enabling / disabling Filter keys The second issue is that the WiFi has stopped working. It will successfully connect to the WiFi, but when you start navigating in the web browser, it will fail to load any website. Windows Update also fails to connect to check for updates. What i have tried until now: - Device manager > Network adapters > uninstall device (on the WiFi adapter), then restart (windows picked up the same driver it has before the restart) - Disabled windows VPN settings - CMD > ipconfig /release then ipconfig /renew - connecting via USB Hotspot (Windows does not see the USB Ethernet adaptor, host device is an iPhone 12) - Removing all known WiFi connections - Disabling the network card, then restart and then re-enabling it I'm kind of out of ideas for troubleshooting network issues Since i mentioned above that in safe mode the keyboard works, i very much suspect that the issues are due to any updates in the past week. There are no windows updates however that have been installed recently, the most recent being on Oct 22nd 2021. There are however driver updates for a bunch of AMD - System and Realtek SoftwareComponent (obviously, Windows Update is not kind enough to specify what exactly) installed since the beginning of November (last update on Nov 3rd). Searching on the web brings the shameful articles about disconnecting and reconnecting your USB keyboard (good luck on a laptop) and other useless stuff (really? Try windows troubleshooting? Done that, said everything was working fine). I wanted to try a system restore to a previous point, but apparently, there is no restore point available. It seems i can't uninstall driver updates from windows update, and I have exhausted ideas for troubleshooting this. I don't want to reinstall Windows, this laptop is property of my sister in law, and she uses it for university stuff, including online lectures. She has documents and platforms set up. Can anyone help me with this? I need to get it back up by tomorrow evening (that's like 24h from now), otherwise I will be forced to reinstall windows as a measure of quickly getting rid of the issues... Thank you very much in advance.

Hello guys, I want to buy a 27" monitor, with 2560x1440 resolution but so far I have been unable to find any with an acceptable amount of backlight bleeding. I have tried ASUS, BenQ and DELL monitors, but they ranged from 1/4 monitor bleeding to more than half screen with prominent spots at the corners. I know the BLB issue is not avoidable but I would like to buy a monitor that has a minimal, non-distracting amount of it. Can you suggest any monitors that you own, or have seen/used that do not present a huge amount of BLB?

Hello everyone, I would like to replace my old 24" monitor with a bigger one. However, I have noticed that most 32" TVs would cost as same as a 27" monitor or less. The difference seems to be the response time where monitors would sit between 1 to 5 ms, while TVs are usually (advertized) at 8 or 8.5ms. Now, my current monitor is a Samsung syncmaster SA450BW, with a (on sheet) response time of 5ms. It's doing great, never had ghosting issues (or at least I didn't notice them). But it still concerns me, how much would affect an 8ms response time? Will I notice any/much of a difference between 5 and 8 ms response time? I will play games on this tv as well, where ghosting would be a huuuuge issue that I don't want to deal with. p.s. No, don't mean input lag or refresh rate, I know the differences

I understand you, bro... I have lost the count of the sketchup models that I have built in the last 2 years, yet, no project got to any later stage. I am stuck with my old V3 case since 5 years now...

Hello everyone! I have really had enough of my old not-so-good-but-still-does-the-job case, a Thermaltake V3 black edition. I have done a quite deep search for cases priced between 50€ and 100€ (almost same amount in USD). The long term goal is a liquid cooled PC, but for some time I will still be using my current air cooling components. I am also planning on switching from my current three 3.5" hard drives configuration to a full SSD configuration using a 5.25" cage (for example, the Icy dock MB998SP-B http://www.icydock.com/goods.php?id=192 ). Speaking about the case: I was looking for a 5.25" bay or top placed I/O panel. The case should also have enough room for at least two 2x120mm radiators (for top and front sides) of 40mm (max) thickness (I think the standard is 38mm) plus the 25mm thick fans. It should be silent, but I don't really mind since I will be using some fan regulators to lower the speed when high performance is not necessary. So let's get to the search results, and a short description of what I like or dislike about each case. All the cases offer great internal modularity (including removable cages or different cage placement) and great cooling potential; some are limited, but that's not a huge issue. The cases are not listed in order of preference. BTW, links to the manufacturer websites are included just for easily consulting the case design; no promotional purposes intended. Phanteks Enthoo pro ( http://www.phanteks.com/enthoo-pro.html ) I love this case. The aesthetics looks beautiful on the outside and on the inside. The downsides are the four 5.25" bay covers which look a bit out of design, and the center aligned top panel cooling holes which may prevent the installation of a tick top radiator with certain motherboards. Thermaltake Core V51 ( http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002402 ) Just like the Enthoo pro, this case offers awesome internal modularity which allows for easy cooling components placement and unrestricted airflow. It also solves the top radiator issue by using a left-aligned top panel cooling holes, and allows for two 3x120mm radiators total, which may improve performance up to a certain degree. The downside is the front panel design (not just the I/O panel, I mean the whole front side panel) which doesn't look very cool; it actually looks like a cheap 20$ case... Thermaltake Versa H35 ( http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/products-model_gallery.aspx?id=C_00002474 ) This case is similar to the Core V51 when it comes to features. It offers enough room for one 3x120mm radiator on the top and a 2x120mm radiator on the front (leaving room for the 5.25" SSD cage that I plan to use). However, the design looks quite like classic cheap cases - not very much actually, but it just resembles the classic cheap cases to a certain degree. It might be just me, but I would have loved to see a more aggressive design, or something... don't you think? I think it looks better than the Core V51 though. Aerocool Aero-1000 ( http://www.aerocool.com.tw/index.php?Itemid=200 ) I love this case's I/O panel placement! Also, the internal modular structure offers almost unlimited choices of radiators and components placement. The external aesthetics looks awesome too, however, the top panel design near the front doesn't look that great and the side panel window is also a bit too small (I know it's not really small, but I would have preferred it to be wider). Fractal Design Define R5 ( http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-r5-black ) This case really overcame my expectations. While I was expecting a silent case with a dramatically reduced airflow, I was surprised to see how fast I could make it a high performance cooling case by removing a few covers. Also, the minimalistic design perfectly fits every corner of this case. However, the radiator sizes are limited when maintaining the ODD cage, which, well... sucks. This case would've been my first choice if it wasn't for this compromise. It may not limit very much the cooling performance when using smaller radiators, but I don't like being limited on the components placement and choice. My list ends here, even though, I found many other cases that look good but lack photos or reviews to help evaluating them. I would like you to tell me what is your opinion on each of the cases listed here. If you own one of these please tell me all the difficulties and problems you encountered in your build since they might make a difference. I am also open to suggestions of other cases, but I don't want to exceed the 50-100€ budget. Sorry for the long post, and thank you in advance for your help

I am sick of my dad stealing my mouse every time he needs to use it on his laptop. And I actually need a better and more beautiful mouse than the one I already own.. please, let me have it!!

Buy a mechanical keyboard

What I actually meant is that, if the headphones are wireless and they have some battery charger, you should make the stand so it integrates the charger as well. That way you have the benefit of a stand that will also charge the headphones when put at rest. The cable I was talking about should just be the original battery charger cable that simply gets out from the stand somehow, or an extension cable that would allow you to charge the headphones while you use them. If the headphones can be charged via USB then probably this cable/charger integration is not needed. Instead, a long enough USB cable should be available to charge the headphones when at rest (or even when in use - obviously if allowed by the product), but that actually goes far away from the goal of this challenge (the stand). To put it simply, I just thought that wireless headphones should be able to be charged when at rest. If they're not wireless then just make sure you make the stand so you can wrap the headphone wires when at rest. p.s. If the headphones charge via USB please note that USB 2.0 standards allows for 5V at 500mA current max. With cables longer than 1m the voltage usually drops by about 0.5V to 1V which has a huge impact on the charging capabilities of the battery in the device (might actually not work at all). The voltage drop also causes a higher current draw from the source (I suppose, the PC) which might damage the USB controller on the source (or, the USB controller might decide to disable that USB port). So beware if you you're going through this. My advice is to keep the cable to 1m or shorter.

Well, the bezel should be the gap around the display between the case and the display itself. If people think instead that there is "no case" or anything at all around the display, in that case the term "frame-less" is more appropriate. Unfortunately, more often than not, people use those therms interchangeably so you can never be sure what they mean... This should do http://www.cnet.com/news/lg-displays-latest-oled-tv-sticks-to-the-wall-is-under-1mm-thick/

Sometimes, developers create Kernel mode drivers that will load on Windows boot instead of after boot. However, if those drivers load and no proper device is found, Windows might fail to load and will die (blame the drivers, not Windows ) Using your old motherboard simply uninstall all primary drivers (all motherboard and graphics card related, especially chipset and integrated graphics card drivers). Then switch the motherboards and it should now work.

Try installing the RAM in the other two slots; some motherboards consider primary slots the ones near the CPU and won't load if no RAM is installed in the primary slots. You may also want to install 1 RAM at a time (some faulty RAMs can prevent the system from loading at all). Also try using the integrated graphics output. Some motherboards are set to use the integrated graphics as primary output so they won't show anything on the secondary (PCIe) graphics card. You may need to change the BIOS settings later, to use the PCIe slot as primary graphics output. And obviously, check if you actually connected the power on button in the right spot on your motherboard... it's pretty easy to get it wrong

How about this one: http://www.1001fonts.com/single-sleeve-font.html Looks very similar and you might just add some scratch-like textures in your image editor program...