Razzee

Probably unrelated, but don't set a gateway on a network that doesn't HAVE a gateway (router) such as when using a cable between two PCs.
 
Make sure on PC1 the firewall is set to Private or turned off for that network, that's usual reason for not being able to connect to it.

Because its the only way to get more than 100Mbit.  The same reason there are Gigabit USB 2.0 adapters and 5Gbit USB 3.0 Gen 1 adapters.
 
A single PCI slot likely wont make a difference, you're running into protocol overheads of the PCI bus even on a single card.

Then you've proven what was already discussed, this is a limitation of the PCI bus, everything on it shares the same bandwidth and the speed claimed is before overheads so it can never reach Gigabit.

Get a USB 3.0 adapter, its what I have on my Mac Mini and ITX PC.

Based strictly on what info I can get from the URLs as Shopee won't let me see them without logging in, go with the Intel I225-v based one.

The motherboard has no native PCI.  PCI slots are created by that "PCIe to PCI" bridge chip, which talks to the system using a pci-e x1 lane and creates 2 PCI slots running at 33.3 Mhz , 32 bits  etc meaning all the PCI slots share a 133 MB/s bandwidth.
 
The firewire controller is also connected to the pcie to pci bridge chip, but if it's not used, it won't reserve bandwidth from that 133 MB/s
 
The 1 gbps connection of an ethernet card can do 1 gbps of transfer or 125 MB/s - but data is transferred in packets with headers and footers, so realistically if you are to transfer a file, you'd transfer around 118-120 MB of actual file contents per second.
 
A single pci-e 2.0 lane is good for 500 MB/s - realistically you're looking at around 470 MB/s due to arranging data in packets / frames with headers and checksums - the actual throughput is less.
 
Anyway as an answer to your first post , you can put both PCI cards into the slots, but they'll both fight for the 133 MB/s available on the PCI bus, even if the pcie to pci bridge is connected through a pci-e  lane that can do at least 250 MB/s (for pci-e 1.0)  so if you were to transfer data through both cards at the same time, you'd probably get around 50-60 MB/s through each - you won't get near 133 MB/s
 
If you want fast transfer between two computers, get a 10gbps or higher ethernet card and plug it in a pci-e x8 slot.
 

At least I learned something today: how to interprect this page of the manual.
 

 
I highly doubt that motherboards meant to be used in servers have this limitation, but who knows.
 
Is it safe to assume that the PCI-E x1 slots do not share the bandwidth? At least, they are depicted individually instead of bundled together.
 

Maybe also try another source for speedtest like Netflix's Fast.com or others.

No it doesn't.
 
32-bit PCI is 133 MB/sec. I believe that's shared across all slots.
 
One PCIe Gen2 lane is 500 MB/sec.
 
Gigabit Ethernet is about 120 MB/sec.

To be clear, you probably have a 32-bit, 33MHz PCI slot, not any of the faster variants (at least that was my experience from that era). Your 500Mbps limit seems suspiciously like a half-duplex link. PCI is a bad interface for high-speed transfers.
 
https://www.amazon.com/XRIKUI-Ethernet-Expansion-Card，Express-Internal/dp/B0C77VQ5FL/?th=1

(just an idea)

Watching Asus' fall from grace over the last 7 years has been very interest. They used to be a bit of a golden child.
 
AFAIK "notebook" is a pretty universal term for laptops nowadays. Historically there was a different in the terms that was mainly defined by the size of the device, but now the terms are becoming pretty interchangeable. 
 
I'm just referring to primarily English-speaking countries. My knowledge for colloquialisms for anybody else is completely non-existent. I've never heard nobreak for a UPS.

If you are trying to use HTTrack are you sure it is your own work? I mean if you do not have a hosting or does not know how to then it's a bit fishy no?
 
Anyways, If you have a 24/7 running PC, Install XAMPP or WAMP, And port forward 80 on your router. If you IP is static, Configure your domain and set a A record pointing to your PC IP

A few days ago I woke up and wanted to play some more diablo, when I hit the power button I just heard a pffffffffttt sound and saw in the back of the pc how a bunch of some got blown out(literally as if someone was blowing smoke out) I directly unplugged the power cable and then I started recording, I was looking if it will catch fire so I throw the case out or rescue my GPU inside but afterwards nothing happened, after that I didn't touch it, my first unprofessional guess was my PSU is broken and hopefully nothing else I ordered a new PSU and will try it in a few days, I also was using a power cord plug that protects from electricity spikes (don't know the English name).
Update: My new PSU arrived, MSI PSU MPG A1000G PCIE5 1000W 80+ GOLD i was gonna change the PSU and all the cables that come from it but then got too lazy, left all cables inside just replaced the PSU first boot it kept restarting but after removing the ram and plugging it back it works fine now. the old PSU had some oily liquid leaking out of it.
I'm here now to hopefully get a bit educated and ask why could this have happened was it any bad practice i had or just bad luck, what inside the PSU made all this smoke and in general what even happened really here
everything except the AIO was bought august 2019, AIO was beginning of 2023
 
In 2019 when i bought this stuff it was literally more then 10 months worth of my salary in the country i live and i have an okay salary, now this year just the new PSU was a bit more then a quarter of my salary, tech stuff is very expensive here, thats why i went with a bit cheaper one this time 
 
these are the specs if it helps with anything
GPU: MSI GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB GAMING X TRIO
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32 GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200
CPU: Intel Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor
Motherboard: MSI MPG Z390 GAMING PRO CARBON AC
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 ARCTIC Liquid Freezer
Storage: Samsung 970 Pro 512 GB M.2 NVME SSD
Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" SSD
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 750 W 80+ Gold
WhatsApp Video 2023-06-19 at 13.52.25.mp4

I've found this on Lenovo forums, which is about an S30, looks pretty similar, may work.

That's for an actual speaker I think, not a buzzer for the bios or whatever. There seem to be various 2 pin lenovo speakers around. Might be worth looking at consumer/bussiness machines released by lenovo around that time since they probably use the same kind of speaker and it could make finding one easier. Although I don't think it's required.
Probably a standard front panel with 2 missing pins, maybe there's no hard drive activity LED on the thinkstation s20? You could also try probing around and checking with a multimeter. But I can't find any info on that.
It could be that the parts either weren't tested, or not available at the time to test, or that the motherboard simply doesn't support them. You could just try it out to see if it works, but it'd probably be best to get the machine running with supported hardware first before trying anything else.
 
That AUX 12V is most likely additional power for the PCIE slots. It's most likely not needed. The system should boot without it. It does look like a standard 4pin EPS CPU connector so you can use half of that, just make sure you use the right half such that the clip on the connector is on the same side as the protrusion, just in case although it may make no difference. So you can use another PSU to power it if needed.

When Bloomfield and Gulftown launched, there were no 8 GB unbuffered DIMM's available. Thus the system was only ever tested & approved with 4 GB DIMM's. Usually 8 GB DIMM's work, allowing you to use 48 GB of RAM.
 
288 GB is only available on systems which use registered memory (Server applications).
 
The L5640 most likely works.

The site says it's an ATX form factor, but the system itself is BTX, and the PSU looks a little stockier like a BTX PSU.
 
Could you use it? Sure, with a little case modification it could be made to fit. I've done it before. "Should you?", is the better question. It's prooooobably a Delta unit, based upon time, form factor and models it was used in, but it's still a 10-12 year old PSU. I wouldn't do it.

Dell N875EF-00 seems to originate from the Precision T550 which doesn't look to use a standard ATX form factor power supply. So it's unlikely you'll be able to fit the power supply into any regular PC case. 

In theory, you can boot off of any attached media your OS can recognize if you configure the boot loader for it. Basically, you'd install Windows itself to the drive hooked to the adapter card and then install the Windows boot loader to a device the motherboard can recognize.
 
That said, outside of large file transfers, you won't really notice a difference between SATA II and SATA III. SATA II is plenty fast enough to make your OS feel responsive and for common tasks like application and game loading.

Those X5600 series Xeons don't have unlocked multiplier so you'd have to overclock them by increasing BCLK anyway.
 
Does the motherboard have a VRM heatsink? In pictures it has mounting holes but not one installed. Honestly I wouldn't bother overclocking at all on a board like that, it looks really cheaply built and doesn't even have triple channel memory or Gigabit ethernet.

The card should not even turn on without both connectors! Perhaps it's so old that does not have such "protection" as modern models.
 
Don't you have any molex to PCI-E adapters? It's fine to use these, seen that they are bundled with graphics cards since forever.
 
Which PSU is it? Generic?

Even a HDMI 1.3 compliant cable does 4K/60Hz.

If nothing work, I suggest you to try (as a last resource) to use a UselessPort switch. There is a chance that Windows detects the switch itself as a (always on) output device. I'm saying this because I have PS3+PS4 connected to a powered HDMI switch which is connected to a HDMI port of my TV, and the TV hub detects it as an active device, unlike my other PC input that is greyed out. AV composite is also detected as an active device because I use a AV to P2 adapter that came with the TV, even with my PS2 off. Even a cable extender should work. I hope I made it clear so you understand. lol