Chickenator

Depends on your room. As a bit of advice, Ikea is love, Ikea is life. Go with whatever fits well in your room and holds everything you need it to.

720? Probably. 4x MSAA is literally the least efficient Anti Aliasing setting, I would bump it down to 2x or even up to 8x for more performance (not even joking, I've had times where 8x has given better performance).

The 960 link doesnt work... if they are so similarly priced, I would assume that the 960 would be better, except the AMP! cards are just more expensive.

I have a friend with a 950m, and it does an eh job. He plays lighter games, so it handles FPS's like CS:GO and COD just fine around 60 fps at medium to high @ 1080. However, it gets destroyed by more demanding games, especially at higher settings. Stepping up to a 970m would not be a bad choice if you need something mobile (like I do, actually. I can personally vouch for the viability of a 970m if you are willing to shell out the extra money over a 960m, or 950m).

That mouse is absolutely amazing for work: well laid out, sensible macros, etc. However, it's certainly not a gaming mouse (as people above have said), nor does it claim to be one. I get a mouse targeted at gaming that gets good rep (Logitech G303, Sensei, anything with good reviews on amazon) and use that instead.

Looks like a great build. I'm glad to see that the build ignored "futureproofing", and instead just tried to get great performance NOW. By the way, post a picture of the finished build when you're done,

Build seems solid! That will do very well in most/all games.

The build looks excellent. I don't think, however, you will need a PSU of that high a wattage. maybe step down to 600 watts to save a few pennies? Also, the R9 390 would be a good alternative to the GTX 970 (depends on whether you like team green, with Game stream, G-Sync, Geforce Experience, etc, or team red, with Freesync, mantle (which is dead), eyefinity, trueaudio, etc.). Their performance is so similar in benchmarks that it really depends on which way you want to sway. I THINK there is a way to plug a USB 2 header into a USB 3 board and have it operate, but I'm not sure... Here is a good PSU that might save you some: http://au.pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-100b10500kr The build if I did it: http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/PXpDgs Only now am I appreciating how much more expensive components are in places besides North America... If you have a buddy living in the US or Canada, have him buy the parts and mail them, then pay him back. It might save you some money (but shipping can be an ***).

Yea, getting a new PSU on upgrade is a good idea. I personally would get a seasonic unit; they are incredibly reliable PSU's. However, a 750 or 850 watt PSU from corsair wouldn't disappoint either.

6700K is similar to all redos of Intel processors for a loong time, with a tiny performance difference. however, DDR4 is getting cheaper (then again, so is DDR3.) Here are two (affordable) builds I would recommend (leaving out PSU because you already have one.). 6700K: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/b3DQWZ 6600K (Great for gaming, a step down in price (a lot) and performance (a little from the 6700K): 4790K: Notice the price drop here from the first build: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/PK9w23 Either choice will be great, but I would go for the 4790k.

Some Mobos have LED things on them that display a number on a failure. You can search up that number in the MOBO manual to figure out what went wrong. BTW I've never ever heard of that brand of power supply, and it could be the problem. You might find a reliable alternative that is relatively cheap and swap that in to see if it fixes anything.

He asked for more ram and a larger SSD and PSU... It doesn't work.

Why so much ram? Why such a high end PSU? Why such a crazy storage solution? Why a last gen CPU (when you could get a next gen one and other stuff for the price you're asking)? Here's what I would do: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/yLxxJx

What brand is your power supply? Some power supplies just suck at supplying power well... I won't pretend to be an expert on how a power supply works (especially yours that I know nothing about), but maybe all the necessary components aren't getting enough juice, and all the power your PSU can give is just enough to power internal LED lights (which take basically nothing to power).

So does lenovo and asus... that I certainly agree with.

HP makes great stuff. So does dell.

HP offers some nice stuff in that price range.

Just IMO, I would go for a similarly priced AMD offering at this price. For example, this R9 280 costs only 10 dollars more, has an extra GB of memory, and is overall slightly more powerful: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-video-card-gvr928wf3oc3gd Otherwise, the build above looks great.

Do you think that 660 Watts would be enough for my system, including overclocking the CPU and GPU?

I'm planning to stick with one GPU, and here's why: I would get SLI later on, except, because I'm "only" playing games at 1440p, the single 980ti should be able to power it fine. Also, with the H100i, CPU performance will be significantly improved (if I overclock). However, on the prodigy M, having the top fan closest to the MOBO filled means that the farthest away PCIE slot is blocked. WiFi is a must for me, so I will have 2 PCIE slots filled from the start, with the third being blocked (I attend LANs frequently, and there aren't many wall ethernet ports in my house). I have no problems with this, however, because I'll "only" be driving stuff @ 1440p 60Hz, which the 980ti has proven to be awesome at.

Here's the part list. Gonna be built using extra money I got from selling some old trading cards of mine from MTG. PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/4bkCWZ Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/4bkCWZ/by_merchant/ CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($379.99 @ NCIX US) CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($110.00) Motherboard: EVGA Micro Micro ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($249.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Kingston 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($399.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($486.97 @ NCIX US) Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($202.85 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card ($679.95 @ NCIX US) Case: BitFenix Prodigy M Midnight Black MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($105.00 @ Amazon) Power Supply: SeaSonic Platinum 860W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($183.98 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro (32/64-bit) ($202.98 @ Newegg) Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-AC68 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($97.24 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM 107.4 CFM 140mm Fan ($30.93 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-2000 PWM 71.7 CFM 120mm Fan ($23.97 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-2000 PWM 71.7 CFM 120mm Fan ($23.97 @ Amazon) Monitor: BenQ GW2765HT 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($389.99 @ NCIX US) Other: Prodigy M window ($32.00) Other: Antlion Modmic 4.0 ($50.00) Total: $3649.80 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-17 15:52 EDT-0400

This: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/bitfenix-case-bfcprm300kkwskrp

That looks like a great PSU! Unfortunately, it is a little too long for my case (I'm building a smaller form factor PC).

So the 850 evo is a better deal SLIGHTLY in the US right now. Notice the amount of uncertainties in that sentence. Not to say it's a bad drive (which it's not, it's great), but your pricing may vary.

PLEASE NOTE: I live in the US, so prices are different for me. All I did was to convert the USD cost into AUD using google . I THINK that the 850 evo has slightly superior performance, but don't quote me on that one. Check a website dedicated to SSD benchmarking to find out more. I vouch for the good performance of the 850 evo and MX200, because I have buddies with those in their systems. They have no complaints. According to this article, they are pretty neck and neck, with the 850 evo and MX200 being EXTREMELY close in their benchmarks, with one edging the other out SLIGHTLY here or there, so much as to be basically unnoticeable. I would just take the one that is slightly cheaper and go with that. http://www.anandtech.com/show/9258/crucial-mx200-250gb-500gb-1tb-ssd-review/2 Pricing (US): MX200: 138.89 AUD http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX200-250GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B00RQA6DTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1437102606&sr=8-1&keywords=MX200+250gb&pebp=1437102618691&perid=08XA9D249C27YSNP4TYY 850 EVO: 132.15 AUD http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1437102531&sr=8-2&keywords=850+evo&pebp=1437102539106&perid=1TTJ6HKR9CAFTQWDP6N0