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227167_1454181677

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Everything posted by 227167_1454181677

  1. 227167_1454181677
    Yea, I really don't know why my case was so stubborn. I didn't want to do it and devoted all of yesterday trying to do this the "Right" way. Hopefully next time I don't have to resort to these measures, but yea, I just wanted to share my success story, even if it was a bit dangerous.
  2. 227167_1454181677
    So I tried a lot of things. I tried running 20% vinegar with water, I even tried around FORTY DROPS of muriatic acid along with water. Keep in mind, the drops went directly from a syringe straight into the rad that was about half full of water. The rad is a double 140mm and even after letting the forty drops with water sit for around 7 hours, I was not happy with my results. This is after I attempted a weak vinegar mix, boiling water, a heavier vinegar mix... Improvement was there but way too slow. After all of the above, the first image below was the result. Still tons of discoloration and corrosion... So finally I said F*** IT. I grabbed the jug of acid which has a 29% acidity level, and I just dumped it in... straight. Nothing else. I let it sit for 30 seconds, poured in just a splash of distilled and shook for another 30 seconds... I wish I did this a lot sooner because you can't argue with the results. Previously the liquid was coming out clear or with just a slight blue tint. After the acid bath, it came out black. I'm so happy with the results, but keep in mind, I can easily see this damaging your rad if you're not careful. There's no way it even sat in my rad for more than 2 minutes. I imagine this could easily eat a hole in one of the copper walls if you're not on top of it. Here is the before and after. Keep in mind, the before is still AFTER I tried vinegar, boiling water, and drops of acid with not much success.
  3. 227167_1454181677
    Alright. Well, I think I might give it one more soak with the vinegar and the water solution just to be SUPER safe, and then obviously flush with distilled to ensure none of that acid is left behind. I mean that's more or less all there is to do, right? Sidenote, I can see the thin passage ways that lead all the way down the unit from the inside and nothing is blocking those ports in the slightest. They all look completely fine, it's just the fact that this coloring is going on. Anyways, that's what I'll do unless someone rushes in and tells me otherwise =P
  4. 227167_1454181677
    It is not slippery. And nah, to be honest, If it -is- just oxidation, I'm not too concerned. Tons of people online say it's not really anything to worry about. I'd just like to be sure that is what I'm dealing with is all.
  5. 227167_1454181677
    So cleaning my entire system as I'm going to be vertically mounting my new GPU when it gets here (Will also post pics of that as well. drilling into my inwin 808 case and it should be rather sick). Anyways! Cleaning the loop... Gone for a good 18 months or so without a cleaning? It was running distilled water and a few drops of PT Nuke. This is the inside of my rad. I've alread let it soak with 4 parts distilled water and 1 part white vinegar with 5% acidity for 2 hours before rinsing out with distilled boiling water a good 5 times. So yea, this is what the inside walls look like. Upon flushing the rad, I got ZERO gunk coming out... I mean the odd black spec here and there which looks like flux but I mean, I got no significant deposits coming out at all... so am I good? All pics online of oxidation look black but this seems more brown? Just to experiment, I scratched the inside with a nail, just to see how easy this stuff is to remove. You can see the scratch so yea, whatever this is comes off relatively easy. The fittings have it as well and I was able to scrape it off with my fingernail. So yup, all you veterans who've done this before, please, give me your knowledge and thoughts =)
  6. 227167_1454181677
    Sorry! I always think back to Jayztwocents story about how he overclocked an old ass CPU by 80% and I always think "One day... One day I'll get the golden chip" lol
  7. 227167_1454181677
    Yea, I'm quite sad now that I've learned the reality lol. Oh well
  8. 227167_1454181677
    Alright, I'm literally firing up DOOM to take a screenshot. One moment lol EDIT ...... Soooooo I came from using EVGA Percision X to overclock.. And I just switched to MSI Afterburner and I was reading the Fan Tachometer vs the MHz. My MYz is 2038!!! NOW I'M SO SAD! =(
  9. 227167_1454181677
    So I've never had -too- much luck when it comes to overclocking my cards. I got my original Titan X to around 1300 MHz. Not bad but I'd consider that pretty average really. But this new EVGA 1080SC seems to be like a real winner. Can others share their overclocking results so I can get a better idea of what is normal? The thing is advertised as 1708 MHz with a boost of 1847 MHz but I've managed to get mine all the way up to 2700 MHz! Any further and I start noticing some artifacting... But yea, just really surprised I can achieve such a clock on air. Edit (I was a noob. I was getting nowhere near this clock. Scroll below to see explanation / stupidity)
  10. 227167_1454181677
    No prob. Share your build on here when it's complete!
  11. 227167_1454181677
    Uhh, yes and no. I mean yes there is room at the bottom for the fans to pull air. Thr problem is that the bottom is still inside the case... So the only fresh air you'll get is from the honeycomb. If they pull air from the bottom, that's just coming from the bottom of the rad mount which is still inside the case. But yea, to not light the honeycomb would be a crime. I'd personally just get the screws from the hardware store.
  12. 227167_1454181677
    No, shouldn't have any clearance issues with a 120 rad at rear. As for the bottom, yes, you could put two 120s at the bottom but not sure why you would when you could put 2 at the front and give the honeycomb in the front of the case a nice glow with LED fans... I suppose you could have 4 intake if you really wanted? But I don't see the point really.
  13. 227167_1454181677
    Unfortunately they are looks before performance but at least this was easily remedied =)
  14. 227167_1454181677
    So I find a lot of people are concerned with the airflow when it comes to the InWin 805. Be default, the front glass panel is really restrictive as it's practically flush with the intake at the front. However, 3.00 of nuts and bolts at your local hardware store can easily remedy the problem. Here are my results. Obviously you could add even more space if you wanted, but I find this is fine and is a lot better compared to how the case ships. The screws that hold the glass panel on are located behind the front mounted Rad.
  15. 227167_1454181677
    Just a crappy 450 watt that came with the case shown above. It's standard 24 pin... If this thing wasn't so cheap compared to other options, I'd have the seller refund me and I'd send it back... but if I want a board that supports this CPU and will fit in a standard case, I'll blow over a 100.00 easily. -sigh-
  16. 227167_1454181677
    Good God... it would fit the "Cheap as possible" theme... Still... God...
  17. 227167_1454181677
    CPU and motherboard are not found on site. They are too old =/
  18. 227167_1454181677
    So recently I've been inspired by TechYesCity and some other videos floating around of people building really capable machines for cheap using older used hardware that still has some kick. (Just thought it would be a little fun side hobby.) I was thrilled to find an Intel Xeon W3565 @ 3.20 GHZ for 25.00 and was even more thrilled when I found a motherboard that supported it for only 30.00... Problem is that that seller of the mobo listed it as an ATX form factor when in fact it's BTX... and wow this thing is gigantic. Here are some pics of a mid ATX case and this board on top of it... It's not even close... What the hell can I buy that will allow this beast to be mounted? Board: Dell Precision T3500 0XPDFK LGA 1366
  19. 227167_1454181677
    That's a great help! Can I ask where you went to search for these compatible boards? or are you just searching "(Processor name) motherboard compatibility" into google? Much appreciated!
  20. 227167_1454181677
    So I recently discovered the amazing deal that is the Intel Xeon E5 2670. It's an 8 core processor for stupid cheap. I thought I could just throw it in any old 2011 board I had laying around, but then I noticed many are saying the board has to have the X79 chipset. Is that really the case? Sort of embarrassing, considering the rig I just built myself and here I am asking a completely noob question lol. I really thought all I had to worry about was the socket type when it came to CPU / board compatibility. Thanks in advance!
  21. 227167_1454181677
    ? Do I need to change the color of my txt?... I'm confused. Thanks
  22. 227167_1454181677
    None at all, just wanted a bit of space =)
  23. 227167_1454181677
    PC Part Picker List: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/4q8xnQ Picture Album: http://imgur.com/a/hTbzB Well, a good while back I built Obsidian V1 inside an Inwin 901 Case and although it was great for taking pictures, the thing just wasn't built for the type of hardware I was putting inside of it. With only one intake and a single 92mm exhaust fan for watercooling, it was louder than a jet when gaming at max settings. Things are a lot better inside the 805... I have a 280mm radiator to play with and a lot more space for a sick water loop. Obviously I tried to get everything I could in white and really loved the way it turned out. Also, I spent FAR too much time hiding wires to provide that epic view in the front so I hope you guys appreciate it... I included a rather unattractive view of the back where the wires, and even a portion of my water loop is stuffed. Thought you guys would be curious so there it is. Thanks so much for looking and if you have any questions, feel free to ask!
  24. 227167_1454181677
    Yea, I'm going to just hook it back up. Thank you anyways tho
  25. 227167_1454181677
    I wouldn't mod it, I would hopefully find out what type of connection it is and simply buy a molex converter cable or something, if it even exists... And I've already reassembled it once, lugged it in, and find I had rough looking lines through my letters. I disassembled again and went over with high grain sand-paper, but still, I'm going to pull my hair out if it's still not right
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