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Sorry that took a while to respond. That took a while to test. Conclusion though, no change. Attempted Freesync in basic mode (Monitor settings) Attempted Freesync in Extended mode (Monitor settings) paired both of the above with variable refresh rate enabled in Windows. paired both of the above with variable refresh disabled in Windows. Attempted turning off "Freesync Pro" in the Radeon software itself. Attempted disabling Freesync all together in Radeon Software, Windows, and monitor settings... And I get the dreaded hitch... I wish I had an Nvidia Card to compare with. FML Thanks for the ideas anyway, @Letgomyleghoe. I wouldn't have thought of enabling / disabling freesync As far as what the clocks are, @Falkentyne when I die in COD, I'm not sure. Haven't looked but I'll get back to you on that.

Cancel that. For whatever reason, I wasn't able to change it when typing in "Edit power plan" in the search bar, but I was able to change it simply by navigating to it via the classic control panel. >.>. Okay! Testing now.

Hmm, do you by chance know if I need a registered copy of Windows 10 in order to set it? I see the option in the dropdown menu, but I can't actually hit apply and I can't seem to find an answer online either >.>

Good catch! I forgot to change that back after re-install. It's currently balanced. I will update in 20-30 minutes, but I don't have high hopes!

I use Radeon Software (AMD's version of Geforce Experience). Am running the latest driver, 20.11.2

... I want to say yes, simply because I reinstalled Windows last night and wiped everything clean as it was time to start fresh again, and the issue was still present prior to me wiping and reinstalling everything. Oh, and just putting this here because more information. My BF also has the exact same card, and he also gets the CW low framerate I mentioned, so I know at least that isn't due to corrupt drivers. He doesn't play GTA though, so haven't done that on his system...

I don't want to say I'm regretting my purchase due to how rough this market is right now, but I'm coming from an Nvidia card and I'm noticing quite a few weird behaviors in comparison. The main issue that's driving me crazy right now is in GTAV. The game will be playing great at over 100 FPS (Story mode) and suddenly performance will tank for around half a second. It looks as if the entire screen is frozen for a fraction of a second and then everything resumes as normal. This happens once every 2 or 3 minutes I'd say and I'm pulling my hair out trying to diagnose as I don't remember this being an issue when I played years ago on a 1080 ti. Things I've tried: Setting game to normal settings (Nothing high, cranked up, etc) Changing the resolution to 1080p (I run 3440x1440 @ 144 hz) Setting the priority to high via task manager. Changing virtual memory with custom values of 800 and 12,000. Running card stock settings vs my under-volt I currently have on it. Increasing minimum clocks to 2000 (This actually helps in COD CW. Just another random quirk I wish I didn't have to deal with >.>) Nothing has helped with this periodic freeze / hitching. Another quirk. In COD CW, the game will run at a severely reduced framerate upon spawning in after death. It looks like 25-30 FPS for a few moments before the card "Wakes up" again and plays smooth. Increasing minimum clocks to 2000 seems to mostly prevent this behavior but doesn't remove it entirely. After several hours of playing, it can occasionally get stuck in that terrible framerate, which then requires you to alt+tab out and then back in, which seems to fix the issue. Does anyone else have this card or the XT model? Anybody have any suggestions regarding GTAV? What's the community's thoughts on AMD and their drivers this time around? Are they going to step up to the plate or am I going to have to spend an hour troubleshooting why my game is behaving in strange ways before I can enjoy myself?

It's a Hydra 26 HD. It sells for over 300 new. I don't believe I"ll need to solder. I can just be more careful with glue next time around as pushing down firmly with tweezers did allow the button to work.

I know literally 0 about PCB stuff. I recently had a button snap off of a PCB on an aquarium light. I discovered if I press down on it hard enough, it still makes contact and the switch / button worked... Well I tried to glue it down, and a tiny amount got inside the button and now it won't press. Please! Can you please link me to where I can buy a replacement for this! It has 1 prong on either side and it has 3 metal contact points. Here is the switch, and the PCB https://imgur.com/EY8PDNi https://imgur.com/poQYtnh https://imgur.com/rorKJCV https://imgur.com/ynMfuhF

Thanks for the input, Jurrunio. For clarification, this is the mobo. It states it supports 3600mhz OCd... but again, I have no idea if that's realistic or a huge diceroll, you know? https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-X370-I-GAMING/specifications/

If one were to pair a Ryzen 3000 chip with an X370 MOBO, could one expect to achieve 3600 frequency? I've read many posts discussing limitations of first generation Ryzen and most user unable to go beyond 3200mhz or so. Is this due to the first gen CPUs or the MOBOs themselves? Yes, I saw another user on these forums ask a similar question, but they only discussed 3200mhz. Anybody have knowledge / personal experience they could drop? Thanks for the help as always, guys.

Actually, after taking a closer look, I think I understand... The back of the PSU actually has 28 pins for the 24 pin... The top part on the left is a standard 24 pin layout, the two images below that belong to the PSU and the extra 4 pins will split off from wires of the same type ... Got it... Sorry... I'd close this thread if I knew how, but I don't see an option. If anybody would like to throw in any tips / advice before I start in a few weeks, I'm all ears! Night, everyone.

Hello, everyone! After wrestling with extensions for years, I've finally decided to create my own PSU cables. I've purchased all tools required, but I'm now learning pins aren't standardized on the PSU side. I've found my correct pinout for my model of PSU, but I'm slightly confused as to why I'm needing to split my wires. Below is an image showing each pin has a place, but simply in a new location. Can somebody please explain to me why four splits are needed for EVGA G-2 / G-3 PSUs? Again, it appears only the locations change...

Just giving the conclusion to this story, I reapplied some Thermal Grizzly and my temps have now dropped 20c. However, I did discover I was putting on one way too much initially. My system actually refused to even put out a signal to my monitor for the first two applications. Each time I took off the IHS, I'd see little traces of liquid metal around the chips protruding around the die (4790k doesn't look like the picture above at all. There's actually tiny little chips here and there). Anyways, I cleaned it all off twice, and on the third application, applied it -very- gingerly and it went without problems. Thanks for everyone's help / assistance!

Thank you for the advice, Science. Admittedly, I didn't apply liquid metal under the IHS. I only applied it to the die as it being conductive scares the shit out of me. I will try liquid metal one more time along with silicone. I will get back to you with the results. Thanks for the insight!

That doesn't matter at all

Arctic MX-4

Yep yep... I'm close to tearing this thing apart, reapplying, and then coming back with identical news. I'm stumped x_x

No no no... I have TWO 360mm rads...

4 GHz, and offset the core voltage to -.045 >.>

No kidding?... And yea, I have 2 360 rads... It just doesn't seem like that could be normal. I mean if I hit 89 with this much rad, i can only imagine what it would be like on an air cooler.

LOL! Yes, "Pea" shape. Sorry about that. Sometimes the fingers just type without the mind present. And no, I did not reseal. Pressure from the CPU block is the only thing that holds the heat-spreader to the die. I'll have to look at my voltages in a sec

I really think I'm good in that dept. More than the typical pee shape, but as Linus' video has showed, you can practically put mountains on and it shouldn't suffer that much... I've literally taken all blocks apart and gone through etched channels in the copper, so I know there's no blockage or anything... I mean at this point, I may just have to reapply the past again for like... the 4th or 5th time if I count the liquid metal process that also wasn't good... It's just bizarre. It seems like something must be catastrophically wrong for me to hit 89 with so much rad.

Hello everyone! I'm no stranger to water cooling, but I've always noticed my 4790k has run quite hot, even after delid. The real joke is the fact that the thing is under-volted in the bios as I wanted my system to be silent... Well, it's not. I have 2 360mm rads, all for cooling a GTX 1080ti and my CPU... That's it. I mean dare I say I have so much rad, I should practically be able to turn off half these fans and I should still be golden. Well, I just got done playing some Gears of War, checked out my temps as I heard the fans spinning up and was surprised to see the hottest core sitting at 89... My GPU is fine with temps, I can feel the pump running, so I know that's not an issue... I actually ran liquid metal just a few months ago, but I was never impressed with the temps with that either. After 3 applications, I was convinced that I simply sucked at applying the exotic 'paste' and this time around after doing maintenance on my loop, decided to simply throw normal paste on both the die, and the heat-spreader when I put it all back together. I just.... don't understand how these temps are this bad... Has anyone suffered after de-lidding their CPU? Is it possible there's an air gap between die and heat-spreader now that I've separated them? I'm lost for words... Pic, not that it'll help you or anything, but there she is.

That's exactly what I did. I paid 100.00 to send in my standard 1080 to upgrade to the ICX cooler version. That's all fine and good, but the real real reason I sent it in was because upon receiving your new card, you were then eligible for the step-up program for 90 days. I was hoping and preying they'd announce the Ti within that time frame and sure enough, here it is. So happy and with a price of 700.00, it's not that big of an investment to get top of the line again.