Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 227167_1454181677

  1. It's a Hydra 26 HD. It sells for over 300 new. I don't believe I"ll need to solder. I can just be more careful with glue next time around as pushing down firmly with tweezers did allow the button to work.
  2. I know literally 0 about PCB stuff. I recently had a button snap off of a PCB on an aquarium light. I discovered if I press down on it hard enough, it still makes contact and the switch / button worked... Well I tried to glue it down, and a tiny amount got inside the button and now it won't press. Please! Can you please link me to where I can buy a replacement for this! It has 1 prong on either side and it has 3 metal contact points. Here is the switch, and the PCB https://imgur.com/EY8PDNi https://imgur.com/poQYtnh https://imgur.com/rorKJCV https://imgur.com/ynMfuhF
  3. Thanks for the input, Jurrunio. For clarification, this is the mobo. It states it supports 3600mhz OCd... but again, I have no idea if that's realistic or a huge diceroll, you know? https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-X370-I-GAMING/specifications/
  4. If one were to pair a Ryzen 3000 chip with an X370 MOBO, could one expect to achieve 3600 frequency? I've read many posts discussing limitations of first generation Ryzen and most user unable to go beyond 3200mhz or so. Is this due to the first gen CPUs or the MOBOs themselves? Yes, I saw another user on these forums ask a similar question, but they only discussed 3200mhz. Anybody have knowledge / personal experience they could drop? Thanks for the help as always, guys.
  5. Actually, after taking a closer look, I think I understand... The back of the PSU actually has 28 pins for the 24 pin... The top part on the left is a standard 24 pin layout, the two images below that belong to the PSU and the extra 4 pins will split off from wires of the same type ... Got it... Sorry... I'd close this thread if I knew how, but I don't see an option. If anybody would like to throw in any tips / advice before I start in a few weeks, I'm all ears! Night, everyone.
  6. Hello, everyone! After wrestling with extensions for years, I've finally decided to create my own PSU cables. I've purchased all tools required, but I'm now learning pins aren't standardized on the PSU side. I've found my correct pinout for my model of PSU, but I'm slightly confused as to why I'm needing to split my wires. Below is an image showing each pin has a place, but simply in a new location. Can somebody please explain to me why four splits are needed for EVGA G-2 / G-3 PSUs? Again, it appears only the locations change...
  7. Just giving the conclusion to this story, I reapplied some Thermal Grizzly and my temps have now dropped 20c. However, I did discover I was putting on one way too much initially. My system actually refused to even put out a signal to my monitor for the first two applications. Each time I took off the IHS, I'd see little traces of liquid metal around the chips protruding around the die (4790k doesn't look like the picture above at all. There's actually tiny little chips here and there). Anyways, I cleaned it all off twice, and on the third application, applied it -very- gingerly and it went without problems. Thanks for everyone's help / assistance!
  8. Thank you for the advice, Science. Admittedly, I didn't apply liquid metal under the IHS. I only applied it to the die as it being conductive scares the shit out of me. I will try liquid metal one more time along with silicone. I will get back to you with the results. Thanks for the insight!
  9. Yep yep... I'm close to tearing this thing apart, reapplying, and then coming back with identical news. I'm stumped x_x
  10. No kidding?... And yea, I have 2 360 rads... It just doesn't seem like that could be normal. I mean if I hit 89 with this much rad, i can only imagine what it would be like on an air cooler.
  11. LOL! Yes, "Pea" shape. Sorry about that. Sometimes the fingers just type without the mind present. And no, I did not reseal. Pressure from the CPU block is the only thing that holds the heat-spreader to the die. I'll have to look at my voltages in a sec
  12. I really think I'm good in that dept. More than the typical pee shape, but as Linus' video has showed, you can practically put mountains on and it shouldn't suffer that much... I've literally taken all blocks apart and gone through etched channels in the copper, so I know there's no blockage or anything... I mean at this point, I may just have to reapply the past again for like... the 4th or 5th time if I count the liquid metal process that also wasn't good... It's just bizarre. It seems like something must be catastrophically wrong for me to hit 89 with so much rad.
  13. Hello everyone! I'm no stranger to water cooling, but I've always noticed my 4790k has run quite hot, even after delid. The real joke is the fact that the thing is under-volted in the bios as I wanted my system to be silent... Well, it's not. I have 2 360mm rads, all for cooling a GTX 1080ti and my CPU... That's it. I mean dare I say I have so much rad, I should practically be able to turn off half these fans and I should still be golden. Well, I just got done playing some Gears of War, checked out my temps as I heard the fans spinning up and was surprised to see the hottest core sitting at 89... My GPU is fine with temps, I can feel the pump running, so I know that's not an issue... I actually ran liquid metal just a few months ago, but I was never impressed with the temps with that either. After 3 applications, I was convinced that I simply sucked at applying the exotic 'paste' and this time around after doing maintenance on my loop, decided to simply throw normal paste on both the die, and the heat-spreader when I put it all back together. I just.... don't understand how these temps are this bad... Has anyone suffered after de-lidding their CPU? Is it possible there's an air gap between die and heat-spreader now that I've separated them? I'm lost for words... Pic, not that it'll help you or anything, but there she is.
  14. That's exactly what I did. I paid 100.00 to send in my standard 1080 to upgrade to the ICX cooler version. That's all fine and good, but the real real reason I sent it in was because upon receiving your new card, you were then eligible for the step-up program for 90 days. I was hoping and preying they'd announce the Ti within that time frame and sure enough, here it is. So happy and with a price of 700.00, it's not that big of an investment to get top of the line again.
  15. Yea, I really don't know why my case was so stubborn. I didn't want to do it and devoted all of yesterday trying to do this the "Right" way. Hopefully next time I don't have to resort to these measures, but yea, I just wanted to share my success story, even if it was a bit dangerous.
  16. So I tried a lot of things. I tried running 20% vinegar with water, I even tried around FORTY DROPS of muriatic acid along with water. Keep in mind, the drops went directly from a syringe straight into the rad that was about half full of water. The rad is a double 140mm and even after letting the forty drops with water sit for around 7 hours, I was not happy with my results. This is after I attempted a weak vinegar mix, boiling water, a heavier vinegar mix... Improvement was there but way too slow. After all of the above, the first image below was the result. Still tons of discoloration and corrosion... So finally I said F*** IT. I grabbed the jug of acid which has a 29% acidity level, and I just dumped it in... straight. Nothing else. I let it sit for 30 seconds, poured in just a splash of distilled and shook for another 30 seconds... I wish I did this a lot sooner because you can't argue with the results. Previously the liquid was coming out clear or with just a slight blue tint. After the acid bath, it came out black. I'm so happy with the results, but keep in mind, I can easily see this damaging your rad if you're not careful. There's no way it even sat in my rad for more than 2 minutes. I imagine this could easily eat a hole in one of the copper walls if you're not on top of it. Here is the before and after. Keep in mind, the before is still AFTER I tried vinegar, boiling water, and drops of acid with not much success.
  17. Alright. Well, I think I might give it one more soak with the vinegar and the water solution just to be SUPER safe, and then obviously flush with distilled to ensure none of that acid is left behind. I mean that's more or less all there is to do, right? Sidenote, I can see the thin passage ways that lead all the way down the unit from the inside and nothing is blocking those ports in the slightest. They all look completely fine, it's just the fact that this coloring is going on. Anyways, that's what I'll do unless someone rushes in and tells me otherwise =P
  18. It is not slippery. And nah, to be honest, If it -is- just oxidation, I'm not too concerned. Tons of people online say it's not really anything to worry about. I'd just like to be sure that is what I'm dealing with is all.
  19. So cleaning my entire system as I'm going to be vertically mounting my new GPU when it gets here (Will also post pics of that as well. drilling into my inwin 808 case and it should be rather sick). Anyways! Cleaning the loop... Gone for a good 18 months or so without a cleaning? It was running distilled water and a few drops of PT Nuke. This is the inside of my rad. I've alread let it soak with 4 parts distilled water and 1 part white vinegar with 5% acidity for 2 hours before rinsing out with distilled boiling water a good 5 times. So yea, this is what the inside walls look like. Upon flushing the rad, I got ZERO gunk coming out... I mean the odd black spec here and there which looks like flux but I mean, I got no significant deposits coming out at all... so am I good? All pics online of oxidation look black but this seems more brown? Just to experiment, I scratched the inside with a nail, just to see how easy this stuff is to remove. You can see the scratch so yea, whatever this is comes off relatively easy. The fittings have it as well and I was able to scrape it off with my fingernail. So yup, all you veterans who've done this before, please, give me your knowledge and thoughts =)
  20. Sorry! I always think back to Jayztwocents story about how he overclocked an old ass CPU by 80% and I always think "One day... One day I'll get the golden chip" lol
  21. Yea, I'm quite sad now that I've learned the reality lol. Oh well