NunoLava1998

Definitely wasn't expecting a reply from this almost four years later, lol- glad to hear that I was able to help though!

I'm trying to build a retro system, and the motherboards from that era don't even have a CPU power connector lol - just a 20-pin. The motherboard manual says that it shouldn't consume any more than 50-200W, so it shouldn't be a huge deal. One will just be my main system, and the other will just be a retro system I'll use for testing out older software - I want to emulate the conditions of a real system from those times, so I'd rather not use a virtual machine. The reason why I'd want it in a dual system case is because it wouldn't look as cluttered on my desk, but it does seem pretty expensive, so I'm not sure whether it would be a good idea.

I'll probably go for a separate case then. A bit of a shame, but at least it's a lot cheaper. (As for the PSU - the second system I want to build is a retro build with an iGPU, so it consumes almost no power - from what I'm reading, it shouldn't be any more than about 50W, so it wouldn't be a huge issue to use one PSU to power both as long as you have the right adapters)

From what I understand, it's on the back; the front isn't anything really special. Not sure about two PSUs, but I plan on powering both with my main PSU if that's possible

Dual-PC, as in, two motherboards - sorry if I didn't make that clear

I was thinking about building a new PC, but I don't want to buy a whole other case and power supply (to conserve space, but also because it should consume pretty little electricity). I've looked into mini cases, but getting the SFX power supplies for those are usually pretty expensive, and they still occupy some space, so I've been looking into dual system cases - that way, I'd have one case with both of my systems. I can't really find that many cheap dual-system cases though; the only decent one I've found is the MagniumGear NEO Qube 2, but that's 179€ on Amazon - I'd really like to get that down if possible, given that it's nearly the price of my entire new build. Does anybody know of any decent cheaper dual system cases?

5.7??

Finally, can't wait to see the performance

I doubt it's a hardware issue considering how extensively you've troubleshooted this by now, so it's probably a software bug of some kind; that's why I was trying to rule out your graphics drivers (which are the most likely culprit). If it only happens every couple days though, I wouldn't really recommend staying in Safe Mode just to rule it out, so scrap that. Next time this happens, can you check if there's anything in Event Viewer? You don't have to interpret it, just tell us if anything shows up there.

It does sound as if something is wrong with your motherboard, your power supply, or your CPU. It seems as if it's having trouble with something early on in the boot process, but it's not clear what exactly. Can you swap out your CPU or PSU with a known working one, reseat anything that might be loose, and see if anything changes? They already tested it with the HDD and CD-ROM drives unplugged, so it's not those. (I'm also pretty sure that they can't lock your system up that early in the boot process, but I could be wrong)

You've already ruled out any hardware or power issues; you've tested out several different systems (with different parts altogether), monitors, cables, and even had it happen with a UPS. If the underlying cause is a hardware fault, it would be extremely unlikely for it to persist across so many different systems; the only exception would be if you used the same GPU model on every system (which could be a design fault). Based off of how you're describing this, it's likely a software bug, so it could be something wrong with your drivers, or with Windows itself. If you boot into Safe Mode (which will only load the default graphics drivers), does this still happen? If it still does, does anything show up in Event Viewer?

Did you change anything in your BIOS settings? It sounds like it's crashing because something's misconfigured; it could be an unstable overclock, for example.

By the way, what? If you're getting a BSOD, it should automatically restart, not continue normally. Do you mean that it works fine after restarting?

Sounds like something is very wrong with your OS (or with your drivers); ntoskrnl.exe is the Windows kernel. It's essentially saying that the OS kernel is crashing; I'm not even sure how it manages to display a BSOD in that condition. Does this still happen if you boot in Safe Mode? That should rule out any faulty drivers.

Seems like Edge is the culprit here. There are more lightweight browsers out there, and they won't use as many resources as Edge. Windows also seems to be taking a bit of a toll on your CPU and RAM usage as well; there are scripts that optimize/debloat Windows 10, and they might be able to reduce the burden on your system resources by a fair amount.

I see; if you don't have that much money on hand at the moment, then the GT 1030 or FirePro W5000 is probably your best bet then. Both have similar performance and don't need extra power connectors, while costing about 40-60$. That's slightly over your budget, but they're a lot better than any other card at that price range; if you ended up going with something like a GT 710, it wouldn't perform any better than your integrated graphics. You also mentioned how you only had 4GB of RAM; that really isn't much nowadays, and you should absolutely try to spring out for 8GB of RAM, and an SSD if you don't have one. You can upgrade both for about 30-35$, and they'll massively improve your system's performance.

FirePro is AMD's older workstation GPU lineup, similar to NVIDIA's Quadros. The W5000 is a fairly old card, but it's often sold for cheap, and it performs well as a budget gaming card. It's a lot better than most of the other cards people are suggesting, it's just slightly out of your price range. (By the way, why aren't you buying the 1030 as soon as possible? That's actually a pretty good price for that card, if you already have the money on hand you should probably buy it)

If you can spend a bit more, try to get a FirePro W5000. The performance is comparable to a GT 1030 (a massive upgrade from pretty much anything else at that price point), but it usually only costs around 50$ on eBay.

To be fair, I don't think I've ever had JS break like this with a VPN. It's possible that they have something in the VPN settings that automatically blocks trackers/ads/malware, which mistakenly blocks PIA as well.

I haven't seen this image in years, am I in 2016? Again.. what Linus is doing isn't really racist. In the video, he's expecting the products he's reviewing to be bad, but that's because they come from Wish, and because he doesn't recognize a lot of these brands; that's not racist. (I understand that there's more to your argument than just that, but again, his rationale behind those things isn't racist either) I can understand why you're on guard for something like this (even if you aren't Chinese), there is a lot of anti-Asian racism out there, but we've already explained the rationale behind the way he acts, and you just keep ignoring it; it honestly seems as if you're just looking for something to be mad over. If that's the case, please calm down and take a break, it's not worth it to get too riled up over something like this.

Adding to this; if you're looking for a decent budget gaming rig, you can usually get a refurbished/used system with a 4th gen i5 for around 100€, and you should be able to toss a used GPU in there for around 100€, and an SSD if it doesn't have one; it'll probably perform better than this system, though it won't be spectacular. Just keep in mind that it won't run Windows 11 due to Microsoft's stupidity.

The price is a bit on the high end, but if you can haggle the price down to around 150$, it should be fine. It's not exactly a great PC though; I wouldn't recommend it for most things (especially gaming), and you can probably get a better used PC for that price. It is quite old, but it's definitely a lot more capable than you're implying. For about 200$, I wouldn't say it's a bad deal either.

You just need to unplug your system from the wall, take out your CMOS battery for about a minute, and then put it back in. The CMOS battery is a round silver battery on your motherboard that powers your BIOS chip (which keeps your BIOS settings) after you turn off your PC. Taking it out resets your BIOS settings, even if you don't have access to the BIOS menu. Some motherboards also have a 'clear CMOS' jumper or button, which does the same thing; however, this is usually only present on high end motherboards, and your motherboard likely doesn't have it if it's a prebuilt.