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Tiberiusisgame

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Everything posted by Tiberiusisgame

  1. Tiberiusisgame
    Check Event Viewer. What do the logs say?
  2. Tiberiusisgame
    Have you launched Event Viewer? That's the first place I'd go if you're running Windows.
  3. Tiberiusisgame
    An excellent point. Caught me citing poor sources. Wikipedia lists the release date as May 27th, 2020. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_10_version_history
  4. Tiberiusisgame
    The motherboard ports are for APUs. https://community.amd.com/thread/235864
  5. Tiberiusisgame
    No kidding? My mistake. We're Enterprise so we lag. It's interesting that MS only posted the "What's New" on 2004 3 days ago. https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/whats-new/whats-new-windows-10-version-2004
  6. Tiberiusisgame
    2004 was released officially 3 days ago and it isn't pushed via Windows updates automatically. But if he created the media after 7/13/2020, then it would be 2004, yes.
  7. Tiberiusisgame
    So what display are you using now and what graphics card? And why wouldn't you list those in your original post?
  8. Tiberiusisgame
    According to your profile, you're driving an ASUS PB278Q 27" with 970's in SLI. You haven't listed the Windows 10 installer but let's assume it's the latest, 1909 build. I had a similar ASUS display that recently died on me. I think the GSync module inside is finicky. Add to that An SLI config. I'd recommend pulling one of your cards for the install, or first, trying a different display just for the installation procedure. Also worth mentioning, I had a PG278Q paired with my 4th gen EVGA classified and it refused to display the BIOS. It had poor support for UEFI. Back then I was running 980s in SLI, so it's safe to say I'm familiar with your troubles.
  9. Tiberiusisgame
    Factorio, Fallout 1, Fallout 2, Red Alert, Homeworld.
  10. Tiberiusisgame
    One of my favorite tools from yesteryear, check out Karen's PowerTools. Karen passed away several years ago but her programming skills continue on. Check out https://www.karenware.com/powertools/karens-replicator-backup-utility. I've scanned the latest version with Virustotal.com and it has a clean bill of health. You can configure backup intervals to clone individual files, directories, or even drives, to a local or network resource. If the Windows server is sharing over SMB, just mount that share locally on your system and backup to that share. I'll briefly mention that different backup methodologies fit different applications, but since your question is broad, this is a broad scoped solution.
  11. Tiberiusisgame
    I have a similar model of laptop with limited integrated storage. Here's what I do to update it: 1. Backup everything you care about. 2. Grab your windows registry key using powershell, or whatever method you care for. in PS running as an admin, type: (gcim -Query 'select * from SoftwareLicensingService').OA3xOriginalProductKey 3. Follow Microsoft's guide to create a Windows installation USB. https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/15088/windows-10-create-installation-media 4. Boot from the USB. Use the disk partition utility to delete all present partitions, then create a new partition scheme. This will prevent errors related to space which Windows might present in an attempt to perform an upgrade. 5. After you're setup, run windows update, reboot, update, reboot, until it's done. Then run the Disk Cleanup utility and remove everything. I don't condone this but if you only use this system for browsing, if the installer gives you any guff about a faulty key, choose to install windows without a key. Attempt to register with your key after step 5 is complete. If that doesn't work, run Windows keyless. There's very little harm in this for your use case.
  12. Tiberiusisgame
    No, it's not safe to run older versions of Windows if you're going to put the computer on a network. Clicking a link isn't your only risk vector. Vulnerabilities inherent in older libraries can be exploited simply by visiting a compromised website, or by querying a DNS server, and Microsoft decided to package feature updates with security updates, ensuring your best bet is either to stick with Windows 10 and update regularly to maintain your security posture, or switch to a platform that doesn't work this way. This is the way.
  13. Tiberiusisgame
    Once upon a time, I would have agreed with the "good enough" sentiment. But then, chips weren't running at GHz speeds and didn't contain throttling and burst technologies to manage heat to within a specific margin (consequently translating heat into performance). They also weren't pushed to their absolute thermal limits because a two-year runtime is considered acceptable, and there were no SoC's, increasing the complexity and heat sensitivity. Consider your GameBoy, if you ever had one. That plastic package chip has none of the technologies I mentioned. It runs at a specific frequency and generates a constant temperature well within the chip's performance envelope. Consequently, my GameBoy still works after 20+ years in service. But my Gameboy doesn't route traffic from 50+devices in real time. In some applications, yes, a thermal pad would work. But it wasn't what I had on-hand. That's not the question.
  14. Tiberiusisgame
    I own a few of these drives and I just took a look at the label on two of them. My larger capactiy Samsung EVO was made in Korea. My small capacity EVO was made in China. Both of these drives are several years old. The performance difference is not dependent on the country of origin, but on the chip manufacturing process. SLC, MLC, TLC, etc. If you're worried about the performance of an SSD, run Crystal Mark and check it against known metrics for your drive.
  15. Tiberiusisgame
    Are there negative aspects to applying thermal paste to a plastic chip package, like the CPU on a Raspberry Pi 2 which does not have an IHS? I appreciate your answer but before you respond, please consider the following: 1. I've researched this issue and have not found anything definitive either for or against it. All the equipment I've worked on use thermal pads on plastic packages, but then manufacturers shy away from thermal paste anyway, likely because it's expensive, messy, dries up, etc. 2. Please don't comment on why I need to cool a plastic package. There are plenty of practical applications for dissipating heat in a chip that isn't metal-backed or doesn't contain an IHS. Consider this an inquiry independent of the specific application. 3. I'm talking about typical thermal paste. Not an epoxy, not paste designed for extreme thermal conditions. The manufacturer's websites don't mention conflicts with a plastic package, but then that's not their target market either. The CPUs in their target market requiring active cooling have either shown an exposed die or have an Integrated Heat Spreader. This is an entirely different, albeit plausible application for thermal paste. 4. I've run heat sinks with thermal paste on plastic packaged CPUs for Pis, routers, switches and game consoles for years, but I've never seen anyone else do this, or more importantly, advise not to do this. Thank you for your consideration!
  16. Tiberiusisgame
    Herb, I'd like to talk to you about your configuration. I've been running a de-lidded 4790k for 2-3 years with liquid metal and overclocked to ~4.78GHz stable as well (47 multiplier across all cores), but at full-tilt when transcoding, I break 80C. I was running a Corsair H80i v2 that entire time and switched to a Noctua NH-U12A hoping the temperature was cooler related. What cooler are you running and, of particular interest to me, how rapidly do your CPU temps jump when you begin a CPU-intensive process, and how quickly do they drop when your system goes back to idle? My system will jump from 30 to 55 within 12 seconds without OC, regardless of fan speed or cooler. This leads me to believe I'm not getting solid thermal transfer from die to IHS, but no matter how many times I align to IHS, check the liquid metal, reapply paste, or realign the cooler or water block, the result is roughly the same. Has this also been your experience?
  17. Tiberiusisgame
    https://archive.org/details/techtv-howtobuildapc Used to watch this channel every day.
  18. Tiberiusisgame
    I had an SSD mounted to the floor before, actually, which is why you see a dangling SATA connector, but I've been switching out SSDs for various projects so now I let it dangle. The board will overhang the mount hole by about 1CM so the thickness of the drive might make the difference, but since most of my SSDs are encased in plastic, I don't worry about them contacting the leads on the back of the board. I would NOT mount an HDD in that location.
  19. Tiberiusisgame
    You're in luck. A DTX measures 200x244mm I shoehorned a MicroATX in, which is 244x244mm. That proves a DTX board would fit. Here's the photo:
  20. Tiberiusisgame
    If you're going to upgrade anyway, have you considered overclocking that K? I'm still running that chip OC'd and it does great work. Don't forget, 4th Gen Intel uses DDR3, so if you go to Ryzen, you'll need DDR4 as well. If you're using aftermarket cooling, it will also likely require ordering an adapter kit for Ryzen, or it may simply not work.
  21. Tiberiusisgame
    If that's truly the reason, I don't think it's helping. I ordered on the 18th and it still hasn't shipped.
  22. Tiberiusisgame
    Some minor updates after the wife advised I theme the build.
  23. Tiberiusisgame
    That has got to be a scam. Call the number listed on the letter, or transcribe the letter here (and don't put your personal information). I'll call them. I'd almost guarantee the number is Skype and it goes out of country.
  24. Tiberiusisgame
    No.
  25. Tiberiusisgame
    For sure, and in the long run, over 20 years and with what will happen during that time, the difference is actually insubstantial. The point here is that the OP feels overwhelmed without necessary justification. 1st world problems; polishing brass on the titanic.
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