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Tiberiusisgame

Member
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  • Discord
    tiberiusisgame#6175
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    Tiberiusisgame
  • Origin
    Tiberiusisgame

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    D.C.
  • Interests
    Read my posts.
  • Biography
    I had dial-up until college. I've been bitter ever since.
  • Occupation
    Engineer

System

  • CPU
    Intel i7 4790K (de-lid)
  • Motherboard
    EVGA Z97 Classified
  • RAM
    16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400MHz CL 11
  • GPU
    EVGA NVidia 1080Ti FTW3
  • Case
    Cooler Master HAF XB frame
  • Storage
    Samsung Evo 840 120, SSD RAID (2TB)
  • PSU
    Corsair AX860i
  • Display(s)
    ASUS ROG Swift
  • Cooling
    Corsair H80i GT
  • Keyboard
    Corsair RGB K70
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Proteus RGB
  • Sound
    Corsair Vengeance H1500
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

2,058 profile views
  1. Check Event Viewer. What do the logs say?
  2. Have you launched Event Viewer? That's the first place I'd go if you're running Windows.
  3. An excellent point. Caught me citing poor sources. Wikipedia lists the release date as May 27th, 2020. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_10_version_history
  4. The motherboard ports are for APUs. https://community.amd.com/thread/235864
  5. No kidding? My mistake. We're Enterprise so we lag. It's interesting that MS only posted the "What's New" on 2004 3 days ago. https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/whats-new/whats-new-windows-10-version-2004
  6. 2004 was released officially 3 days ago and it isn't pushed via Windows updates automatically. But if he created the media after 7/13/2020, then it would be 2004, yes.
  7. So what display are you using now and what graphics card? And why wouldn't you list those in your original post?
  8. According to your profile, you're driving an ASUS PB278Q 27" with 970's in SLI. You haven't listed the Windows 10 installer but let's assume it's the latest, 1909 build. I had a similar ASUS display that recently died on me. I think the GSync module inside is finicky. Add to that An SLI config. I'd recommend pulling one of your cards for the install, or first, trying a different display just for the installation procedure. Also worth mentioning, I had a PG278Q paired with my 4th gen EVGA classified and it refused to display the BIOS. It had poor support for UEFI. Back then I was running 980s in SLI, so it's safe to say I'm familiar with your troubles.
  9. One of my favorite tools from yesteryear, check out Karen's PowerTools. Karen passed away several years ago but her programming skills continue on. Check out https://www.karenware.com/powertools/karens-replicator-backup-utility. I've scanned the latest version with Virustotal.com and it has a clean bill of health. You can configure backup intervals to clone individual files, directories, or even drives, to a local or network resource. If the Windows server is sharing over SMB, just mount that share locally on your system and backup to that share. I'll briefly mention that different backup methodologies fit different applications, but since your question is broad, this is a broad scoped solution.
  10. I have a similar model of laptop with limited integrated storage. Here's what I do to update it: 1. Backup everything you care about. 2. Grab your windows registry key using powershell, or whatever method you care for. in PS running as an admin, type: (gcim -Query 'select * from SoftwareLicensingService').OA3xOriginalProductKey 3. Follow Microsoft's guide to create a Windows installation USB. https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/15088/windows-10-create-installation-media 4. Boot from the USB. Use the disk partition utility to delete all present partitions, then create a new partition scheme. This will prevent errors related to space which Windows might present in an attempt to perform an upgrade. 5. After you're setup, run windows update, reboot, update, reboot, until it's done. Then run the Disk Cleanup utility and remove everything. I don't condone this but if you only use this system for browsing, if the installer gives you any guff about a faulty key, choose to install windows without a key. Attempt to register with your key after step 5 is complete. If that doesn't work, run Windows keyless. There's very little harm in this for your use case.
  11. No, it's not safe to run older versions of Windows if you're going to put the computer on a network. Clicking a link isn't your only risk vector. Vulnerabilities inherent in older libraries can be exploited simply by visiting a compromised website, or by querying a DNS server, and Microsoft decided to package feature updates with security updates, ensuring your best bet is either to stick with Windows 10 and update regularly to maintain your security posture, or switch to a platform that doesn't work this way. This is the way.
  12. Once upon a time, I would have agreed with the "good enough" sentiment. But then, chips weren't running at GHz speeds and didn't contain throttling and burst technologies to manage heat to within a specific margin (consequently translating heat into performance). They also weren't pushed to their absolute thermal limits because a two-year runtime is considered acceptable, and there were no SoC's, increasing the complexity and heat sensitivity. Consider your GameBoy, if you ever had one. That plastic package chip has none of the technologies I mentioned. It runs at a specific frequency and generates a constant temperature well within the chip's performance envelope. Consequently, my GameBoy still works after 20+ years in service. But my Gameboy doesn't route traffic from 50+devices in real time. In some applications, yes, a thermal pad would work. But it wasn't what I had on-hand. That's not the question.
  13. I own a few of these drives and I just took a look at the label on two of them. My larger capactiy Samsung EVO was made in Korea. My small capacity EVO was made in China. Both of these drives are several years old. The performance difference is not dependent on the country of origin, but on the chip manufacturing process. SLC, MLC, TLC, etc. If you're worried about the performance of an SSD, run Crystal Mark and check it against known metrics for your drive.
  14. Are there negative aspects to applying thermal paste to a plastic chip package, like the CPU on a Raspberry Pi 2 which does not have an IHS? I appreciate your answer but before you respond, please consider the following: 1. I've researched this issue and have not found anything definitive either for or against it. All the equipment I've worked on use thermal pads on plastic packages, but then manufacturers shy away from thermal paste anyway, likely because it's expensive, messy, dries up, etc. 2. Please don't comment on why I need to cool a plastic package. There are plenty of practical applications for dissipating heat in a chip that isn't metal-backed or doesn't contain an IHS. Consider this an inquiry independent of the specific application. 3. I'm talking about typical thermal paste. Not an epoxy, not paste designed for extreme thermal conditions. The manufacturer's websites don't mention conflicts with a plastic package, but then that's not their target market either. The CPUs in their target market requiring active cooling have either shown an exposed die or have an Integrated Heat Spreader. This is an entirely different, albeit plausible application for thermal paste. 4. I've run heat sinks with thermal paste on plastic packaged CPUs for Pis, routers, switches and game consoles for years, but I've never seen anyone else do this, or more importantly, advise not to do this. Thank you for your consideration!
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