Raz Ghost

Personally I haven't really had any real issues playing it but it is a nightmare to update. The 130GB game took no more than a hour for me to download but so far there have been 2 1GB updates and both have taken me more than 2 hours to update the game. This is through their EA app which I have to use because I paid for a month of EA play pro to play it which isn't available on steam.

Well I reset the router and it worked for a while then the issue came back. It is about 15m, a ceiling and a wall (plasterboard not brick) from the router but putting it next to the router doesn't fix the issue. As well the issue can arise without moving the device so I don't think its signal related. I saw that link but it was so generic I ignored it, restart tablet, restart router and reset tablet with no real knowledge.

I have recently moved house so new ISP and new router/modem combo. I also have my own huawei router that I use as it's more reliable. All my devices work as expected, PC, phone, smart appliances, etc with the exception of my tablet. I have a Galaxy Tab S5e and it will connect to both the modem/router combo and my huawei router perfectly fine but it will frequently not connect to the internet. Meanwhile my phone and PC will connect perfectly fine. I have tried switching to the other router's network but have the same issue. If I connect to my phone's hotspot that is also connected to the wifi though it works. So to put it visually ISP>>>ISP modem/router>>>Tablet Issues ISP>>>ISP modem/router>>>Wifi router>>>Tablet Issues ISP>>>ISP modem/router>>>Phone>>>Tablet Fine Someone please help because I just really don't understand why the issue persists or what to do

Before I start I am in the UK but I'm guessing that shouldn't make a difference. So last June I broke my OnePlus 8 so I went and replaced it with a galaxy S10+. All was well but occasionally I would just completely lose any signal. This was happening in random places whether it be in London, a big town or out in the country. When my contact expired I changed carrier and now it doesn't lose signal but occasionally I would have really slow data speed while it displays 4G and 3 bars of signal. I've also had occasions where the wifi will lose internet (a ! appears on the icon) so I turn the wifi on the phone off and on again and it works. I can only talk to my carrier via live chat and after jumping through a load of hoops and checking some settings they asked if the problem was solved and I was like "if I'm currently experiencing the problem then how am I talking to you?". So I'm now at a loss, do I buy another phone? I can pick up at refurbished OnePlus 8 off Amazon for only £200 which is tempting.

Same, I miss hearing Linus going on his tangent's before starting the show on youtube. Unfortunately catching the show live isn't really an option when it starts 2am local time

I have the Gigabyte Gaming OC 3080 and original had a Corsair RM750, it triggered the PSU safety cut off once after 3 days and TBH that was enough to convince me to spent the extra £100 to get a RM850X. No issues since.

Can't remember the exact LTT video but I remember seeing them struggle to test the 3080 in professional workloads due to the lack of memory

I've got a 5800x, rtx 3080, 2 hdd, 1 ssd, 4 fans and a lang D5 pump. My corsair rm750 ran fine for a week but one day turned off without warning. I ordered a rm850x which took another week in which time the pc didn't turn off again. Would I have been fine with just 750? Probably but it's nice having 850 especially when your gpu is worth as much as a 3080. Also I wouldn't expect any deals on psu's as they are in short supply atm

Got a 2016 Corsair RM750 here to power a 5800X and 3080 and have had it randomly power off twice now. So now that I am in the market for a new PSU I might as well get a 850W. If I had a 3090 and and needed to replace my PSU then I would get a 1000W one.

Hi guys I have a bit of a dilemma, the retailer that I ordered my EVGA RTX 3080 XC3 gaming has now fulfilled all it's orders of the FTW3 ULTRA model. Now I was thinking, great I'll take it if they offer it to me, but then I realised the card I ordered was £740 and the FTW3 ULTRA sells for £900!!! I could of brought a 3080 weeks ago on ebay if I was going to spend that much. So I find myself torn, is the FTW3 ULTRA really worth paying a extra £160 for? To make matters worse the number of cards they have received of my model is pathetic, since launch they have received 20 of them meanwhile the total EVGA cards they have received is over 400! So the wait for my card may go on for some time if I turn down the offer. Thanks for any input

Wouldn't you just set the refresh rate of the monitor to 60Hz in that case?

I wouldn't expect much as amd squeezed every drop of performance out of it. I cant help with tips but here is a LTT video on AMD 3000 OVERCLOCKING

Ah I see what you mean now, I'm not sure if you can use the motherboard video out at the same time as a dedicated GPU or at least on some boards you can't. There is also the question of if your CPU has integrated graphics in the first place

Thought it might be worth sharing our experiences, any issues we've had and any positives. I'll start, I got the 5800X, so after the fiasco that was getting windows activated and having to reinstall windows again I finally got everything installed and running but found that no matter what I did the max clock was 4.2GHz. After messing about I found that in the BIOS for my Asus B550-F there is a option called Asus performance enhancer that was disabled so I enabled it and then 4.7GHZ. I'm also finding the PC hangs quite frequently especially if I have something installing in the background, even opening task manager can be a struggle. Luckily in games and demanding work it's all fine and good, unfortunately I am GPU bottlenecked ATM, still waiting my 3080 to ship but nevertheless I am quite happy.

Found this in page 46 of the manual

The only port you want to use on the motherboard is a USB 3.0 port not any video outs, if you use the video out on the motherboard you're going to have a bad time. If you need more USB ports you can just get a PCI-e card or use a hub for devices that are not bandwidth or latency sensitive. If you really are struggling for video outs and you dont have enough on your GPU your best option is a second GPU

There is a button next to the IO with the power cables connected and the PSU on all you need to do is press and hold the flashback button for 3 seconds until the light next to it starts flashing. What you don't want to do is power the system normally using the power button.

Just make a point that when rocket lake is released you should wait 6 months for the 5000XT's to come out.

I've used Asus boards for the past 4 years and love the ai suite software for fan tuning and overclocking. I had a MSI b450 board when the amd 3000 series launch and just didn't get on with it. I actually just finished a build with the Asus b550-f wifi you mention, really nice board, good wifi, fan headers all around the board, bios flashback was painless. Saying all this though it was a easy choice for me as I got it at £135 on prime day

There is practically no headroom to overclock AMD is already pushing them to the limit. It's a bummer that you can squeeze any more clock speed out but on the plus side they can stay at their max clock speed whereas with intel you will see dips in clock speed.

Nice and you managed to score a 3070, only criticism is it does look very cluttered and the aio pipes look awkward, that being said I don't know how I would fix it

As the others say big difference but limiting fact will then be the gpu

You can update the bios using the flash bios button on the motherboard which only requires the 24 pin atx and 8 pin cpu to be plugged in, no cpu no ram. Here's the instructions from the manual Updating BIOS with Flash BIOS Button 1. Please download the latest BIOS file that matches your motherboard model from the MSI® website. 2. Rename the BIOS file to MSI.ROM, and save it to the root of your USB flash drive. 3. Connect the power supply to CPU_PWR1 and ATX_PWR1. (No need to install CPU and memory.) 4. Plug the USB flash drive that contains the MSI.ROM file into the Flash BIOS Port on the rear I/O panel. 5. Press the Flash BIOS Button to flash BIOS, and the LED starts flashing. 6. The LED will be turned off when the process is completed.

I had the same issue when I got the 3600, in the end I brought a 2600 from amazon, left the included heatsink in the box and just used the cpu. Once done I cleaned up the cpu, put it back in the box and sent it back, no questions asked.

2 questions, what's your budget and what is "Tier-A"? As you may know PSU's are rated on their efficiency so by tier-A do you mean only the best rate 80+ Platinum or will 80+ Gold be enough?