Vincanti

So my friend wants a case that honestly could take a beating, something that will be hard to knock over or even be moved. The reason for this is because the last Pc he built his brother ran through the room got caught on a cord and destroyed it. If you have ideas for something that would do the job well and still be reasonably priced throw it out there.

Alright guys, still not giving in, Reset CMOS, Installed new Drivers, Ran recovery, even updated bios (which apparently had some type of memory fix). Even with this a fresh install and 3 days and nights (when im off work) dedicated to trying to fix this the problem still persist. The only thing thats kept this pc restarting is the removal and replacement of ram. I want to thank you guys for trying to help me out, but as it is tax season throwing a tiny bit of money at the pc in my experience fixes all problems. I cant stress enough how helpful you guys have been, thank you.

Im going to just kind of write it up as some kind of mobo malfunction something obviously is going wrong but when it runs it does run so idk..

By the gods i have no idea why this worked but after a long time of just saying theres nothing else left to try and doing it, its working, i can shutdown and turn it back on without removing ram! Going to mark you as solved! Edit: Aaaand..... Just like that my joy is short lived because it is again not working...

Okay so im back and I've tried some things, looked for pinched cables, nope only thing touching anything was a zip tie Clipped it short just in case. I should note i had the Pc running all day just fine without it having hibernated. BUUUUUT when i turned it off it goes into its loop of nothing, the only way to get the computer to actually boot to windows is literally pulling out the two sticks of ram and swapping their positions. Jake I tried what you said Hibernation was already off and i turned off fastboot, then went through the CMD, first try at restart and still a no go. So now whats the call? New Mobo? is the problem there? Or could it still be elsewhere? Edit: Also Win 10

will check for pinched wires and things when i get home, i just thought i would throw my problem out on the web before work so i would have things to test when home. Thanks for the help, i'll be back with results in 10 hours.

Happens with both.

First off this comp. was built by me 2 years ago and has been handed down to GF who has been using it for the past 3 months. So I've been Troubleshooting this all night and thought i had it figured out but apparently i have not. System at first was turned on by girlfriend and kept restarting. So i started piecing it out Took out Graphics, Still did Took out ssd, still did Took out all but one ram in one slot, Started! Okay we're getting somewhere, Check over all the ram, Turns out 2/4 sticks are at 1600mhz and 2/4 are at 1866mhz. Put two 1866mhz in main slots, Computer starts. Think well okay i obviously didnt check ram when i bought more and mixing frequencies was the problem. Put everything back besides the other two ram, Start comp Works! then i shut down. GF then Starts it again (because she wasnt going to play games but now she is going to). Uh-oh Problem again. This summarizes pretty much whats happened, I've tried installing the 1600MHz Ram and it'll boot the first time but when restarted will go back to restarting over and over. So i need to know! What am i doing wrong if im doing something wrong, or whats Broken? Parts I5 4460 Gigabyte GA-H97M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 2x 4g Hyperx Fury 1600mhz or 1866mhz intel 250g ssd Asus GTX960 Strix Noctua NH-D9L CPU cooler Corsair CX 450w

Is regular sharpie actually going to work or will I need like a Sharpie paint marker?

No I've had those off. This is next to the heat spreader on the bottom on the right side of it.

Simply displays that the motherboard is receiving power. Is always on even when pc is shut down. only time it's not is when you switch powersupply off.

So I have the Mini itx z170 board by Asus. This board has a really annoying led light next to the 16x slot by the lower most heat spreader. I was wondering whether or not there would be a clean way to cover it. Picture included.

Why such a large PSU? 750W?

Of course i have a windowed case, I chose a PSU for aesthetic reasons so i must be looking at it from time to time.. And while I'm Sure Linus has done one thing he also has more experience, not to mention he's used pre-sleeved MULTIPLE times as have many other Techtube builders.

I rather not have to sleeve them myself, one I don't want to ruin any warranties and I also don't have that much time in my day and usually only have weekends off.

So I'm looking to Get sleeved cables for my Nzxt Hale82 V2 550w Power Supply. (Lets face it the included 24 pin is hideous.. For the money i spent I'm actually mad. But I'm seeing that it is incredibly hard to find something already sleeved. I just received the PSU today. I like the look of the PSU itself, it goes well in the build I'm doing, but again i would like Custom and not extensions. Is there someone that knows if i could go with a similar brand cable but it will work for the Hale? Or should i just ship this back and go down another road? Thanks for your time! Edit: I understand the concept of sleeving them myself but rather not do it.

We'll its the old 8.1 key (upgraded to 10).

Will the media Creation tool act the same as a recovery? As in i just use it on the hard drive fresh and put in the OEM key? Ex: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

Im all for getting rid of bloat as well. But not at the cost of a new Windows OS. If because im not changing anything other than an SSD, if i can use my OEM key to reinstall on the new ssd with all the other hardware still being the same i would do so..

Nothing on the Old PC besides an SSD is changing, well and the case but that means NOTHING!!!

Can you expand on expanding? i understand the copying of partitions but what expanding for. Sorry i'm curious.

So here's the deal, i am upgrading to a new PC, I have bought a new OS for that PC and the old PC is being handed down to the Gf. Thing is she has to buy a new SSD for it because i'm taking the one in it currently to the new setup. (Its an expensive Part, and it's just about a TB). How would I transfer the data to the new SSD? Would there be any problems? Will windows just transfer over and be good?

Sounds like something good to test, either way at least it sounds possible and being the pipes the fluid come in through seems just as easily removed modding or even custom printing could be an option as well. Just have to wait n see once i get my hands on a cooler i guess.

Found This " "Removing the pump plate reveals two sets of PCBs: The base PCB from Asetek (green) and the custom PCB designed by NZXT (black). The black PCB is wafer-like in size, and on it dwells a set of eight total LEDs that operate at 3W each – fairly powerful, given the tight space (note: we're told there are nine LEDs in total, but only counted eight in the main ring of LEDs). Side flare LEDs and a light guide are used to “pull” light out of the CLC for viewing. NZXT is using an ST Microelectronics ARM Cortex M3 MCU, specifically the STM32 (32-bit) F103C8T6. As far as we know, this is the first consumer-ready, Asetek-supplied cooler that has been made with partner input on the electronics. The impeller itself is housed internally this time, and no longer rests visible within an exposed socket. The rest of the functions are identical to every CLC we've ever taken apart: A coldplate uses densely packed copper microfins to expand surface area, through which flows liquid to whisk heat up-and-out to the radiator. " Here's Source : http://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/2662-nzxt-kraken-x52-x62-x42-review-and-benchmarks-noise-temp?showall=1 Edit: added more info.

Well that's good to hear, i read through the page i linked up above some more. ( i had to leave earlier because of work). And i noticed that it is running some Asetek pump parts. If its anything like the one you mentioned it could work really well. Unfortunately i was unable to find any information that i could understand about Liters/h in the pages but all in all what i'm hearing so far there could be a really good possibility of making this work even with another pump. Apparently through the Cam Software you are able to adjust the pump speed. Now if someone that understand the information about pump speed flow rates ect. could tell me whether or not i could get the blocks pump to match the speed of an pump like this, and make it workable that would be awesome. Because really if i can get them to work together I'd like to have that. But if i need to tear apart the block to figure a way to get that separated or off without blocking flow, that'll work too. All in all this is a project that hasn't really started yet i just wanted to first off get it out there because its been an idea in my head ever since i first saw this cooler on Awesomesauce (cough Cough COUGH) I mean BitWits Channel.