Jump to content

Notbn

Member
  • Posts

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

About Notbn

  • Birthday May 24

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Canada

System

  • CPU
    Intel Xeon E3-1231 V3
  • Motherboard
    ASRock Z97 Anniversary
  • RAM
    Kingston HyperX Fury Black - 16GB
  • GPU
    Powercolor Red Devil RX480 8GB
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define C
  • Storage
    Sansung 850 EVO 250GB | WD Blue 1TB
  • PSU
    Corsair RM750
  • Cooling
    Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
  • Keyboard
    Cooler Master Masterkeys S PBT
  • Mouse
    Logitech G403 Wireless
  • Sound
    Harman Kardon Soundsticks II
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

354 profile views
  1. My Nitro+ 5700XT has been problem free other than the regular random game crashes that most PCs experience at some point. If you can find one under MSRP its probably a good deal. Just make sure your RAM is stable, that's usually what causes the "black screen issue" most people experience with the 5700XT
  2. 3 pin require voltage control. Check your mobo to see if its using PWM or voltage control for the redux fans.
  3. Phanteks P400A or P300A are both good airflow cases with a less "fractal" design than the FD Meshify
  4. Who is everyone? Gamers Nexus has highly regarded case reviews/themal testing on their channel. I would take a peek there if you're looking for a case, as you may find something you like the look of that still performs well. Many cases with closed off front panels can perform adequately if you're brute forcing air by running a bunch of fans at high RPM. Generally cases with mesh front panels will perform miles better while running less fans at less RPM.
  5. L9 is a fine cooler. High idle temps are normal for Ryzen, don't worry too much about them. Focus on all core load temps. From what I understand, Ryzen with PBO enabled will stop boosting at 80C.
  6. This, top fans are probably mostly useless in your current setup. Maybe push/pull setup on the rad will improve temps slightly, but it probably won't be worth the cost.
  7. Really 96c under load with a D15? Something is fishy here. I'd say just get rid of one of the cards, SLI is hardly worth it anyway for gaming. Side panel on should allow the CPU and GPU/s to be fed with more direct airflow. The solid front panel on the case will restrict a bit of airflow, so those fans need to run at a higher RPM to compensate.
  8. Hyper 212 should have stops on the screws that bottom out before it get anywhere near tight enough to damage anything.
  9. If its worth anything, I have the LG 27GL650 which is the same monitor but 1080p. It looks great, I've always had IPS monitors and it looks as good as any other I've seen. Backlight bleed is present, but only in the bottom corners and it isn't noticeable on anything but very dark colours. Response time is respectable, I'm fairly sure the "1ms" response time is using some sort of algorithm that tries to fake it. On my model I have it turned off and on the "faster" response time setting which is more than enough for casual or mildly competitive gaming, seeing as you'd be getting TN anyway if you were super hardcore. The stand is relatively solid, has good height adjust and can tilt and swivel. Monitor wobbles a bit if you shake the desk but is ok while gaming. All in all I have had good luck with LG monitors and this no exception.
  10. LG 27GL650f-b $249USD https://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-27gl650f-b 27in, 1080p IPS, 144Hz, Freesync/Gsync 20-144Hz, 5ms GTG, with a '1ms motion blur reducer'. I just got this monitor and it's awesome!
  11. Das Keyboard 4 Professional has everything but the backlight. There's an option, unless you absolutely can't live without it.
  12. If you want wireless here are my suggestions: Mouse: Logitech G603 - No RGB, Longest battery life, uses standard AA Logitech G703 - RGB, Decent battery life, rechargeable internal battery Logitech G903 - RGB, Similar battery life to G703 with same internal battery Keyboard: Logitech G613 - Uses Romer G switches, standard AA batteries, no backlight or anything fancy, dedicated macros and media keys Corsair K63 Wireless - Only Cherry MX red switches, no numpad, backlit (will effect battery life), no dedicated macros Be sure to check out reviews and overviews of the products if you're interested. Personally, I have the Logitech G403 Wireless, which is a previous version of the G703. I can tell you that this mouse had been great for the time I've had it, and I consistently get around 30hrs of battery life with the RGB lighting turned off. Definitely check out RocketJumpNinja on YouTube for mouse reviews.
  13. Only ever had a 104 key layout, would really like to try a 60% keyboard though!
×