Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Euphoria

  1. Many... many... many, different types I actually posted about this a week or so ago. I've tried everything from £1 per meter catering clear tubing, to expensive £10 per meter big branded tubing. Yet, every time, 6-8 weeks it's as cloudy as a British summers day. Also, I've tried high PH, low PH, with and without a kill coil, with and without biocide, dyes no dyes... nothing helps. Regarding Mayhems tubing, I've read a few reviews on their tubing, people were say it's extremely soft and flimsy, not like nice and flexible, more dangerously soft as it pops off fittings and kinks badly blocking the flow. Do you have experience with it yourself??
  2. I sort of considered black tubing at one point, but it's already quite a dark coloured build, black would just be too much.
  3. Hey, I'm looking for some info from anyone that has experience with, White soft tubing, but also being used with a dye or coloured coolant. I would like to know if there were issues with staining, reactions or discolouration etc..?? Reason: I was going to use white tubing as it's solid and not transparent, that way I don't have to worry about clouding, but I have two large reservoirs which I would like coloured coolant/water in, even just a small amount of dye so it looks better than clear water, but I'm concerned it will stain the white tubing quickly or just cause issues. Appreciate any info. Thanks
  4. Ryoku, that's awesome thank you for taking the time to do that. If that's the clouding after 12 months I'm happy. Currently that's what my soft tubing looks like after 2 weeks. Appreciate it.
  5. Indeed, I knew all tubing would cloud up eventually, I'm happy to drain and flush every 8 weeks to slow any crap building up in the water, I just don't want to be redoing all of the bends and replacing all the tubing 5 times a year like I am now with soft tubing. As for acrylic, I would be much more nervous using acrylic than PETG. I've worked with acrylic sheet hundreds of times for modding, so I know how fragile it is.
  6. Ok that's good to hear, thank you. Have you had a lot of experience with PETG? What I mean is, obviously no one can say: "This tubing clouds up after exactly X amount of time", but in your experience is it a case of having to replace and redo all of the tubing once a year, or still more often than that? As for glass, I would love to but all of the extra fittings needed as you can't bend it would simply be too expensive for me at the moment. Also only 3 stores actually sell any water cooling parts in the country I live in now, and they only stock a handful of basic parts for soft tubing, so I have to buy everything from the UK, then have it shipped to a courier somewhere else in the UK, they ship it to my country and deliver it to my closest city, then a local courier picks it up and delivers it to me. So it takes weeks to receive the parts and a Lot of money in postage. One of the things I miss about the UK, order anything I could desire today and have it in my hands tomorrow.
  7. Hey everyone, so I'm curious to know from any people experienced with hardline water cooling if PETG tubing stains from dyes/coolant and plasticize more or less than soft PVC tubing??? Reason for asking; I've always gone with soft tubing out of habit. Over the years I've tried a dozen or more different brands of tubing from big brand's €8-10 per meter tubing, down to a hardware store's own brand €1 per meter stuff. I've tried plain distilled water with nothing else except a tiny amount of biocide, also distilled water with dyes, lots of biocide, with anti-corrosion and without, and many other mixes, but no matter what tubing or fluid I use, the tubing is as cloudy as a British summers day within 6 weeks. It drives me crazy, the loops look amazing for only a few weeks then they start to cloud up and look like poop, so I'm currently draining and flushing the loops every 8 weeks and every time replacing the tubing. Well, I have a new project I want to start soon and this time I was planning to swap to hardline tubing, so I wondered - does PETG tubing suffer as bad from plasticization as PVC tubing? Am I going to be redoing all of those bends, cuts, and measurements every 2 months or is PETG not as bad? Appreciate any input on this. Thanks.
  8. Ok, so I have followed the guide posted above, 3 times now making 100% absolute sure I did everything correctly and still, nothing Are there any Java experts around that can help me dig deeper into this please?? It must be something I've clicked or touched at some point, but without the expert knowledge I have no idea what to look for, or even what info I should post here that might help.
  9. That's more in depth than the guide I followed, so I shall have a look through and give it a try. Appreciate it.
  10. Well, I can't be 100% that I did the Path correctly. My knowledge in some areas of computing/PCs is excellent, but Java and this type of stuff... treat me as a complete noob. Not sure what I would run through command line, again that is out of my field. Could you explain what and how I could do this please?
  11. So, recently (about 2 months ago) I completed a full system format and fresh install of Win 10 x64. Once installed, next came all necessary drivers, add-ons and finally apps. I downloaded the latest Java at the time, installed both x86 and x64 versions of Runtime, and carried on thinking everything was fine. But since then I've been running into issues, anything that requires Java to run, except 1 app weirdly, does not detect it being installed at all. The one app that requires Java and can detect it is, Vuze (AKA: Azureus) a torrent client for downloading game mods, etc. So far I've tried: Completely uninstalling both versions of Java, and deleting any file or folder related to it. Installing the latest versions, also older versions. Running registry clean ups. Installing JDK on it's own and also with JRE. Installed JRE on different drives. Setting a new path But nothing has worked. So if anyone can think of something that might help, please let me know. Thank you
  12. That's what I thought and was dreading Ok never mind, thanks for the info keemo, appreciate it.
  13. I need a little help with this please. I'm just about to update to Windows 10 now it supports some apps I use, so I decided to sort and rearrange my drives before doing the update. Shrinking some partitions and extending others, but in doing that, the drives converted to Dynamic. So my question is, will a fresh OS install auto convert them from Dynamic back to Basic, or do I need to essentially backup everything and format the drives to put them back to basic??? Appreciate any info on this please.
  14. Oh, I'd never even heard of that before, I'll give it a try. Thanks appreciate it.
  15. Thanks for the reply. I'm a little dubious of Furmark as it was abandoned over 5 years ago so it's pretty out of date, so it may not really push modern cards. Googling beings up lots of guides and posts, many recommend Furmark, but 99% of those posts are from 2008-2013, and the few I've found from within the past 12-18 months, actively don't recommend Furmark as it's out of date and easy to pass. Most recommend Valley or Heaven haha, which are to 2 apps I physically can not use. Just my luck
  16. Well it seems all windows default program associations for anything relating to browsers are set correctly to use Firefox, I even tried installing Chrome and Firefox x86 too, but still nothing, absolutely no Unigine software will run without IE being installed. I can't even find a Unigine product support email to ask them directly, only support emails I can find are for advertising and job stuff So I'm s**t out of luck. God damn you Micro$oft! If anyone knows or comes up with a way to force Valley or Heaven to look for any other browser Except IE, I would be eternally grateful. There must be something is it's configs or dll's that would work
  17. Hi LTTF, I'm looking for a few recommendations for good 'Tough' stress testing software to test my GPU's stability. I've always used a couple hours on Unigine Valley and Heaven, and a bit of 3DMark 11 as a suitable stability test, but due to a Windows reinstall I can no longer run Unigine software, and if I remember correctly, 3DMark 11 isn't that tough to pass. I think I remember reading that Furmark/Combuster is pretty weak too, is that correct??? So I'm wondering what you would recommend??? I currently only have AIDA64 Extreme installed which is a CPU test, but also does GPU's but I don't know if it's any good at GPU testing.
  18. RT 7 Lite -- is an awesome app that extracts the Windows image (ISO), then allows you to see every feature and component within Windows, even all the backend stuff you normally wouldn't know was there. It then shows you exactly what things do, what's needed and what's not, so you can simply untick the junk you don't want nor need, like Fax and Floppy support as it's 2016, and remove it. Also integrate all your drivers, apps, programs and the 250+ 6 years worth of updates and recompile the ISO so when you do a reinstall, it's faster, everything is up to date and installed already, plus all the junk is removed to save drive space and having a lot less processes needlessly running in the background 24/7. It really does make a difference, Windows runs and boots faster and smoother, a lot less rubbish running in the background, the entire Windows install only takes up 5-6GB instead of 20+GB. Anyway, I'll have a look in the default programs and see what's there.
  19. Oh crap! I don't have Internet Explorer disabled in Windows Features, I actually have it completely removed using RT 7 Lite, so I can't just enable it, it physically doesn't exist That's weird because whenever it finishes a run, it always opens in Firefox anyway, even if IE is installed. Is there any way around this, like pointing Valley/Heaven to an alternative browser??? Thank you for the super quick reply by the way, much appreciated.
  20. Hi, I'm hoping someone can help me with this please. I recently did a full format and reinstall of my OS (Win7 x64). Everything is now installed and up to date, yet, when I install and try to run Unigine Valley and Heaven, I receive an error on startup: "Windows cannot find 'browser_x86'. Make sure you typed the name correctly, then try again". I've tried 3 uninstalls and reinstalls of both apps, doing complete shutdowns in between, and I've checked in the install folders and 'browser_x86' is present as it should be, yet it fails to launch every time. Anyone got any ideas as I've used both these apps pretty much since they released and I've never experienced an issue, so I'm stumped Appreciate the help.
  21. My Experience With Lapping an Ivy Bridge Last year I decided to revamp my rig, building a new custom case for it and generally tidy it up with some nice new cables etc... I was considering De-lidding it (3770k) as we all know, Ivy Bridge is pretty hot, and my chip even on an overkill custom loop was still pretty hot which was hold back my OC. But before de-lidding while the chip was out the mobo, I tested it on an off-cut piece of toughened glass I have in the garage, to my surprise, it was ridiculously bevelled, I mean when laid on the glass it was like a spoon! It had a massive bevel in the center. So I tested the waterblock too, and again, this was pretty bevelled, not quite as bad but still enough to annoy the nerd in me. Especially as the bevels were the same direction on both, curving down from the edges to the center, resulting in when mounted, there would be a decent sized gap in-between the center. Enough is enough... *Reaches for sand paper* I went with: 400 grit wet, then onto 600 wet, 800 wet, 1200 wet, 1500 wet, 1800 wet, 2400 dry and finally 3000 grit dry. The experience of the lapping itself was actually not that tedious like Luke said in the video, but then anything nerdy gives me "The Tingle". The effort involved for me at least was actually a lot! The waterblock wasn't too bad, 10 laps in each direction, with each grit paper was enough to get a nice smooth flat finish. Whereas the IHS, jebus H. christ, that took hours! With the first few grit papers I spent what seemed like a good hour plus lapping as the paper was touching the 4 corners of the IHS, but wasn't even close to touching the center until 30-40 minutes of continuous lapping, only stopping briefly for a few seconds to give my hand a rest. Finally, once the center was contacting the paper I started to progress up through the grits, spending anywhere from 20-50 laps with each paper in each direction. The final result was pretty nice I thought... Screenshot: The IHS now has a smooth, shiny and much more flat finish. When laid on the glass with a little moisture between them now, there is a good resistance when lifting it off the glass, meaning the surfaces are flat enough to cause the suction effect, (I think this is known as wringing). Now with the CPU back in, the TIM spreads much more evenly resulting in me applying less. As for Temps... well I know some may say it's within the margin of error, but as my man cave is very well temp controlled I would disagree and say it did indeed make a difference. It seemed to be around 3 degrees Celsius reduction, which I'm happy with. When benching or stressing an OC my temps are extremely consistent due to the room being temp controlled, so it was a noticeable drop. De-lidding - (For those interested): I did then go on to De-lid it. I used the Bench Vice, block of wood and Hammer method to de-lid this chip, as I f***ing hate the razor blade method. I've used that method before and I find the razor is extremely tedious, dangerous to the CPU more so than the vice and hammer, and bloody dangerous to My Fingers! I would HIGHLY recommend the Hammer and Vice method, it worked beautifully and took seconds. Temps from De-lidding obviously were a Lot more noticeable. The amount of cheap, nasty and dried crusty TIM on the die was painful to see. I replaced it with an extremely wafer thin layer of liquid Gallium, then replaced the IHS but I did not stick it back down to the PCB, so I can access it again if needed. Both the De-lidding and lapping resulted in a drop of roughly 17 degrees Celsius combined, which gave me a big Nerd Tingle And an even bigger nerd tingle when it was able to finally hit the magical 5GHz!! Yeah Baby I digress. In conclusion, would I recommend lapping... well... Yes... and No. I would first check to see what your chip and/or heatsink/waterblock is like first. If when laid on glass with a tiny amount of moisture they stick quite tightly together, then you probably have an ok surface and lapping may not net you a noticeable result. But, if like me, you have a CPU more curved than a banana... Yes, yes I would recommend lapping (and De-lidding if you want to take the risk).
  22. Hello, I'm looking for a little help and insight please. Would this work, or would it just be hassle and inconvenience? Currently I have my OS installed on a 500GB SSD, I also have another 256GB SSD for games which is Not big enough, and some HDD's for media. The thing is, with my OS being installed on the largest SSD, I tend to get a bit lazy and just install everything on that drive, all apps large or small, so I end up nearly filling that drive... 99% of the stuff on there doesn't even benefit from being on an SSD. So I'm basically taking up a ton of storage space with stuff that doesn't need to be there, leaving me limited room for games. My idea. I have a small SSD sitting here doing nothing, a 60GB Intel drive barely ever been used. I was going to install my OS (Win7) on this small SSD, using RT7 Lite to remove the useless junk from Windows first, then install it fresh, and use the small remaining space on that drive for 2 or 3 apps that benefit from being on an SSD, and the rest of my stuff, install all of that on a HDD. So, I will only ever have 40-50GB of OS, drivers, apps etc.. installed on any SSD, freeing up a lot of SSD space for games. What do you think. Is this asking for trouble, is 60GB too small even just for OS, drivers and maybe a couple of small apps?? Will installing 95% of my apps onto a separate HDD cause issues, will some apps just not like being on a different drive?? Can you think of any major issues with this?? Thanks, appreciate the help and input.
  23. Clearly said in post 1 and 2, plus a screenshot of it. *Sigh*, why don't people read a post before replying. Never mind thanks anyway