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Nohemi

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  • Posts

    781
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About Nohemi

  • Birthday Aug 28, 2000

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    Left_Twix

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    USA
  • Interests
    PC building and games
  • Biography
    Add me on Steam! I'm friendly
  • Occupation
    full time student
  • Member title
    Left_Twix

System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 5 5600
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte B550 Gaming X V2
  • RAM
    Triton 16 GB 3200 (2x08)
  • GPU
    Radeon RX 6600 Sapphire Pulse
  • Case
    Phanteks Eclipse P400a Digital (RGB)
  • Storage
    Samsung 970 EVO NVME M.2 1TB
  • PSU
    Corsair 650W
  • Display(s)
    Acer IPS 1080p 24” monitor
  • Cooling
    Stock
  • Keyboard
    Anne Pro 2 (with canvas XDA keycaps lubed with Krytox)
  • Mouse
    Logitech G305
  • Sound
    Massdrop x Sennheiser HD 58X
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
  • Laptop
    MSI gaming laptop w/ 1050TI (not sure which)

Recent Profile Visitors

2,332 profile views
  1. then if I'm looking for an upgrade for the hd 58X, what headphones should I go for that are around 300 bucks?
  2. Hi, *For reference I'm coming from the Sennheiser HD 58X. I'm currently driving the Hifiman Sundara's with the shiit Magni Heresy and on-board DAC.* Problem: I got Hifiman Sundara headphones a few days ago and I am pretty confused on what I am doing wrong, because for almost every song I try the headphones sound shrill and grate my ears. There is sibilance in pretty much all of the songs that have any words with "s" in them. I tried to EQ them using oratory1990 presets as a guideline and made a couple adjustments to the bass and treble from there, but I don't know if I like these headphones any better than my old ones. I noticed that the instrument separation is amazing, the detail is phenomenal and the headphones have a wider soundstage, but I don't really like it for anything other than Opera and classical/orchestral music (with and without EQ). I can't help but think the music sounds thin and lifeless compared to my HD 58Xs (at least without EQ). When I add EQ it sounds better and less grating for most songs, but I don't think I prefer it to my HD 58X. It also feels like everything is too far away from my ears and if I try putting the volume higher to feel closer to the music, the headphones sound sibilant but not closer. They also sound pretty underwhelming (compared to my HD 58X) on most songs even after EQ. Notably, the Run Lola Run soundtrack, More by KDA, and any song with bass presence sound better on my HD 58X. According to some audiophiles, the Sundaras benefit from settling in and they need time to "burn," but then some people say that's complete BS or that it's just the earpads that need time to break in. I thought maybe I'm just used to the Sennheiser's sound engineering and I do have sensitive ears when it comes to higher frequencies, so maybe I just don't like the sound EQ (even after adjusting). Worst of all the headphone clamp force is very uncomfortable and I can't wear them for more than an hour without giving me a headache. Conclusion: Am I doing something wrong? Am I driving my headphones incorrectly? Do I need a DAC to ease the sibilance? I think I might just prefer a headphone that has a more intimate soundstage. In that case it might just be better to try other headphones. If that's the case, then feel free to give me headphone recommendations close to the HD58X that don't sound sibilant and that have an intimate sound stage.
  3. Hello again, I recently built a new PC, but all 3 fans are not lighting up upon booting nor when I press the case buttons to change the rgb mode. The fans are spinning though, which is good. I have a Gigabyte b550 Gaming X V2 motherboard. I think maybe I put the rgb connector in the wrong slot, but I am not sure. Maybe I should disconnect the RGB connector and try to control it though the software? Please send help, I need my PC to light up Thank you for your time
  4. do you think the rest of my build is okay? Would I have to update my bios to make sure the CPU works?
  5. is it good now? I think I accidentally privated the folder where I keep all my builds
  6. Budget (including currency): $1000-1050 USD (ish) Country: USA, yeehaw Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Clip Studio Paint (digital painting), The Witcher 3, Doom Eternal, Metro Exodus, Elden Ring, No Man's Sky, some Fps games like Valorant and Apex, and coding/computer science stuff Working Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Nohemi/saved/HB974D any cooling recommendations would be appreciated if stock isn't enough (I don't plan to overclock anytime soon) Why am I upgrading? Well my gaming laptop is about four/five years old now (has a 1050 i think) and although I can play Dead by Daylight and Valorant on okay settings, I can't really play Witcher 3 or Doom, or Metro on low-medium settings without dropping frames. I'm about to graduate from university and I've been needing an upgrade. I was just waiting for GPU prices to stabilize and so now I'm pulling the trigger before prices get crazy again (maybe wont happen but I wont take any chances since this happened to me before). Resolution: 1920x 1080, I have a five year old monitor, so I might have to buy a new one if this one keels over but for now I'm good. I already have a mouse and keyboard and even a windows key from my last PC build. I would like to have 2 monitors in the future if possible. Title Explanation (if you wanna skip this go ahead): Incidentally what lead me to check GPU prices again since 2021 was yesterday when I booted up Steam. I was playing The Witcher 3 and I got to Novigrad and had to turn my graphics setting all the way down, but I still couldn't even walk in that city above 3fps. In hindsight, maybe it was because I had discord and chrome in the background, however I doubt it would have made much of a difference. I made a manual save after selling all my weapons and armor to a blacksmith and then tried to quit the game. I went for a bathroom break as it struggled to close, but when I came back it was still running, so I had to force quit. Then tragedy struck. After I restarted my laptop I realized that Steam said "Install" instead of "Play." Apparently this is a common bug, and I tried re-installed based on the advice given. What was supposed to happen was that the launcher was supposed to recognize that I still had all the game content on my hard drive, but after waiting for a while Steam said that it would take 2 days and 2 hours to install the game. When I went to investigate where I have all my Steam games, all my save files were gone. So in defeat I completed my German homework and went to bed with tears in my eyes... 47 hours of game-play ... gone. So the next day, I looked at the GPU prices and told myself, "Now is the time you have been waiting for! Let's GOoOO." Das Ende Thank you in advance! EDIT: Apologies for the botched links
  7. I thought that seasonic psu had a lot of manufacture defects (but I think I might be thinking of another model) I have an extra 1TB hard drive in my old computer I will use. What can the b550 do that the b450 cannot? (out of curiosity) do I have to overclock the 3600 ram to get the most out of ryzen?
  8. Budget (including currency): 1000 USD Country: US Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Doom Eternal, Recent Tomb Raider Franchise, Clip Studio Paint, other demanding video games, Coding Projects (1920 x 1080, 60hz) No moniter nor peripherals needed Here is my parts list. I am buying it soon, but I came here for last minute recommendations. Thx PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor $199.99 @ Amazon Motherboard MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard $114.99 @ Best Buy Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory $68.99 @ Corsair Storage Crucial P1 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $59.99 @ Adorama Video Card MSI Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB GAMING X Video Card $389.99 @ Newegg Case Phanteks Eclipse P400A Digital ATX Mid Tower Case $89.99 @ Amazon Power Supply EVGA BQ 600 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply $73.99 @ Newegg Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $1017.93 Mail-in rebates -$20.00 Total $997.93 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-17 19:10 EST-0500
  9. Hi I'm getting into "hi-res audio" and started stock piling some FLAC files, but I have no portable device that can play them. So I've been looking at some media players around 100 USD, but found that most of them either have quality control issues or deal-breaking downsides. Some of the models I looked at where the fiio m7, xduoo x3ii, and the fiio m3k. The fiio m7 had some quality control issues on the audio jack (and poor battery life), and the xduoo x3ii had pretty poor firmware and very loud hiss when plugging in the audio jack (though I find those reasons to be somewhat bearable). Can I get a 100USD portable media player for my FLAC files, or should I look at 200 USD or upwards? Anyone have any recommendations or can vouch for the players I listed? I have a budget around 100 USD, but I am open to 200 USD players, but not much above that price point. thanks
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