Applefreak

How well does it do in actual workloads? There is no way a NH-D15 or any other tower cooler today will be enough if you fully load up the processor without dropping clocks. Intel rates the typical max TDP at 253 W. The actual number is quite a bit higher, almost double that actually. Check your results in games etc. Maybe you want to consider cooling it with water instead (360 mm +, preferably open loop).

How well does it do in actual workloads? There is no way a NH-D15 or any other tower cooler today will be enough if you fully load up the processor without dropping clocks. Intel rates the typical max TDP at 253 W. The actual number is quite a bit higher, almost double that actually. Check your results in games etc. Maybe you want to consider cooling it with water instead (360 mm +, preferably open loop).

Just want to check that you mean i7-3770 and not, i7-13700 cause that is a world of difference. 
 
The 3770 is a DDR3 ONLY processor and cannot be used with DDR4 ram. If you are going with that old of a CPU youre gonna have to track down a z68 motherboard which is most likely used and can be risky. Honestly it isn't worth it. If you can save up a bit get yourself a modern i3 and it will run circles around the old 3770s. 

Just change the password. You could remove admin rights but that will either lock you out completely or destroy the install. Either way you are better off by either disabling SSH, changing passwords or have only certain MAC addresses allowed to access the machine. 

Clear CMOS after updating the BIOS. If the 3600 works just fine, the 5600 may be bad.

Just change the password. You could remove admin rights but that will either lock you out completely or destroy the install. Either way you are better off by either disabling SSH, changing passwords or have only certain MAC addresses allowed to access the machine. 

Just stop the SSH service and remote login is no longer possible.
 
# this stops the ssh service sudo systemctl stop sshd # this prevents it from starting again after a reboot sudo systemctl disable sshd

There is an open source (free) program called TestDisk that comes with a companion app called photorec for recovering images. Link here It's free, just unzip and go. You may want to execute with admin privileges. The program has a GUI (graphical user interface) as well as CMD console interface. Both work great, I tend to use the console interface more but that is personal choice. It is quite important that you do not boot the HDD, instead you want it connected to an existing machine as a secondary etc. drive. 

Good news first, 85C on 13th gen Intel is fine for some reason. They do run quite hot by design. You can lower clocks and limit boost if your board has those options, also power limit the CPU. You will loose some fps but lower temps significantly enough. Other then that, a 280 mm AIO or better would be the next step. With modern AIOs there is very little risk of leaking. I have had several of the older models and none of them leaked, even after several years. It can happen but usually they either leak right away or not at all. You can test it outside the case before replacing your current heatsink, that also ensures the pump isn't rattling.

Problem is that this new alliance only supports new printers. I've looked all of my current ones including those in the office from 2022 and none of them show up as being supported. So whenever that garbage goes into effect, you won't get any third party drivers anymore and only a select few printers will work. Welcome back to the good old times of Macintosh OS when you had your choice of a couple of printers each generation that would be certified and supported. Another huge step back but with everyone wanting things to be more Apple, being unable to choose seems to be the future right? Odd thing is that Apple is way more compatible now than it ever was when it comes to third party drivers and peripherals.

Please buy higher end ones. There is little risk in damaging the phone but I've used cheap cables in a pinch and kink them once by accident and they only charge at abysmal rates, not that they were up to spec before. Please spend the extra 2 to 6 $ on premium cables. As @Kisai said, make sure to get power delivery cables, your phone doesn't need them but they provide better and more stable power delivery for fast charging, even when the connector on the phone gets warm. I mostly use Anker cables, because I can get them fairly quick on amazon and they do last me quite a while.

I believe your question is: What is the GPU to match my Ryzen 7 2700X processor? Why the AM5 upgrade, you can still upgrade on AM4 just fine and save a lot of money.

Whats the productnumber of your laptop?

Have you tried diffeerent USB ports on your PC? How old ist that PC? The cam seems to only powered by USB, which is fine but it states that it needs USB 3.0 which is confusing as there are different specs in terms of data bandwith but more importantly power delivery. A basic USB 3.0 port may provide about 980 mA while others may offer substantially more. If you have one, you can try with a powered USB hub inbetween to provide extra power to the USB port. What PC or motherboard do you have?

Those are RGB controllers not fan controllers, well they are but for RGB only, no power delivery.

I believe your question is: What is the GPU to match my Ryzen 7 2700X processor? Why the AM5 upgrade, you can still upgrade on AM4 just fine and save a lot of money.

First: use punctuation, it is really hard to read/follow you otherwise. I know you are frustrated and angry, but without you being our eyes and ears in this we can't help you. We only know about your system and what it is doing what you write to us. Everything else we have to guess or infer, which is not reliable and can send you down wrong paths (and causing even more frustration).
 
Second: be as specific as possible
 
PC turns off means it completely shuts down, no error message and no lights/beeps etc.?
Can't turn it on means power button not working? Tried unplugging the power cable in between attempts?
 
RAM, switched from what to what? And how did it work after that for a while?
 
GPU blinking red: which model exactly? Otherwise we can't look up any manuals etc. and have to guess what that could mean. Which LED is blinking red?
 
From the description of randomly shutting off and not turning on again I would guess PSU, so if you have a spare PSU or could get to one you could try to eliminate this. Swap over to the known-good PSU (including cables, very important to not reuse cables if the PSU is modular!!!) and see if the issue persists.
 
Otherwise, simplest thing to do without more information is to swap out components and see which ones make a difference....

Problem is that this new alliance only supports new printers. I've looked all of my current ones including those in the office from 2022 and none of them show up as being supported. So whenever that garbage goes into effect, you won't get any third party drivers anymore and only a select few printers will work. Welcome back to the good old times of Macintosh OS when you had your choice of a couple of printers each generation that would be certified and supported. Another huge step back but with everyone wanting things to be more Apple, being unable to choose seems to be the future right? Odd thing is that Apple is way more compatible now than it ever was when it comes to third party drivers and peripherals.

Problem is that this new alliance only supports new printers. I've looked all of my current ones including those in the office from 2022 and none of them show up as being supported. So whenever that garbage goes into effect, you won't get any third party drivers anymore and only a select few printers will work. Welcome back to the good old times of Macintosh OS when you had your choice of a couple of printers each generation that would be certified and supported. Another huge step back but with everyone wanting things to be more Apple, being unable to choose seems to be the future right? Odd thing is that Apple is way more compatible now than it ever was when it comes to third party drivers and peripherals.

Wait until you have a chunk of money on the side as new stuff is always a bit pricey, though prices might come down by then. You want to check reviews and get the CPU with the highest IPC number you can find that has 8 physical cores (6 is great today, 8 to future proof your system). 

What kind of scaling issues do you have? 4k 60 Hz shouldn't be an issue, provided you use the right adapter or a native USB-C monitor.

I like this build. The 7600 non X is such a fantastic gaming CPU + it comes with a stock cooler. Love it.
I would go with at least  5600 CL36 memory,  5200 CL40 is very slow.
The Samsung 970 evo plus is a bit cheaper I think.
Great GPU 🙂 
Good PSU. The Corsair RM750e is also a solid option.
Overall, great build with some minor tweaks.

You have two features that alter image quality, something called contrast enhancer and HDR, try to turn both off. I don't have a TV like that so I am just guessing here.

it's not any more dangerous than the things you plan to be doing with it. you're essentially just replacing the connectors of a power supply with something more generic.
 
having that said.. if you're wanting an actual variable output voltage supply, look into ruideng (or riden, or RDtech)
 
https://rdtech.aliexpress.com/store/923042
 
but a 12 volt lead acid isnt 12 volts, and is HILAREOUSLY much more dangerous than an ATX power supply assuming you dont actually take apart the power supply.
 
as for the rest of your advice.. yes.. but largely irrelevant to the specific question of re-using an old ATX power supply. any time you're messing with electronics you need to be prepared for something failing spectacularly.

Can we have some specs, like what drive it is, what CPU/motherboard, what benchmark, and what software setup? This isn't possible on its own, so I suspect either the benchmark is broken or there's some sort of caching going on.