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Applefreak

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Everything posted by Applefreak

  1. How well does it do in actual workloads? There is no way a NH-D15 or any other tower cooler today will be enough if you fully load up the processor without dropping clocks. Intel rates the typical max TDP at 253 W. The actual number is quite a bit higher, almost double that actually. Check your results in games etc. Maybe you want to consider cooling it with water instead (360 mm +, preferably open loop).
  2. Did you just disconnect the fan or has it been disconnected while testing it? There is a chance the card may not want to boot up it a component is missing or defective. I'd ask EVGA directly for guidance on this issue. Btw. JB weld or any other type of epoxy does not mend broken channels inside a radiator. It can be a quick short term solution when you are stranded in the middle of nowhere on the side of the road. The proper way would be to either replace the radiator or weld or solder them shut. Epoxy needs several days to fully cure and even then there is still a chance with the glycol it will break loose and clog the pump.
  3. Your HDD might be bad. I've had the same issue, replacing it is quite difficult. A solution would be to boot your system off an external SSD (I use a 3.5" external case for a 2.5" SSD because it has it's own wall adapter, the USB port on those older MACs are a bit limited when it comes to power delivery).
  4. Modern PSUs like that will be able to do both voltages, older one had a tiny red sliding switch at the back. The only thing you need to look out for is to use the right plug type for your wall outlet. Both units you have selected will handle 110-240V just fine.
  5. Clear CMOS after updating the BIOS. If the 3600 works just fine, the 5600 may be bad.
  6. The only kits supported on that board with 128 GB (4x32) are from Kingston @ 5200 MHz CL40, which is not an ideal choice in terms of speed and latency with your processor. It may still work but it hasn't been tested for. Question is if you can even make use of the extra memory at all.
  7. Depends on your platform and how many DIMMS. Many boards won't be stable at 128 GB with more than 2 DIMMs at full XMP / EXPO speed.
  8. Just change the password. You could remove admin rights but that will either lock you out completely or destroy the install. Either way you are better off by either disabling SSH, changing passwords or have only certain MAC addresses allowed to access the machine.
  9. Usually the old key is linked to your MS account so you cannot transfer it over to a different user. However you can buy working keys for far less than that.
  10. Good news first, 85C on 13th gen Intel is fine for some reason. They do run quite hot by design. You can lower clocks and limit boost if your board has those options, also power limit the CPU. You will loose some fps but lower temps significantly enough. Other then that, a 280 mm AIO or better would be the next step. With modern AIOs there is very little risk of leaking. I have had several of the older models and none of them leaked, even after several years. It can happen but usually they either leak right away or not at all. You can test it outside the case before replacing your current heatsink, that also ensures the pump isn't rattling.
  11. Those are RGB controllers not fan controllers, well they are but for RGB only, no power delivery.
  12. Have you tried diffeerent USB ports on your PC? How old ist that PC? The cam seems to only powered by USB, which is fine but it states that it needs USB 3.0 which is confusing as there are different specs in terms of data bandwith but more importantly power delivery. A basic USB 3.0 port may provide about 980 mA while others may offer substantially more. If you have one, you can try with a powered USB hub inbetween to provide extra power to the USB port. What PC or motherboard do you have?
  13. Please buy higher end ones. There is little risk in damaging the phone but I've used cheap cables in a pinch and kink them once by accident and they only charge at abysmal rates, not that they were up to spec before. Please spend the extra 2 to 6 $ on premium cables. As @Kisai said, make sure to get power delivery cables, your phone doesn't need them but they provide better and more stable power delivery for fast charging, even when the connector on the phone gets warm. I mostly use Anker cables, because I can get them fairly quick on amazon and they do last me quite a while.
  14. Whats the productnumber of your laptop?
  15. I believe your question is: What is the GPU to match my Ryzen 7 2700X processor? Why the AM5 upgrade, you can still upgrade on AM4 just fine and save a lot of money.
  16. As long as you only have a single drive, a USB enclosure might be better unless you want applications to run on it. You will only be able to use 4 of those memory sticks on a single motherboard. Keep in mind that you will need a case, a decent PSU, a motherboard and another drive for the OS. So in terms of costs you can easily buy an external case, even one with RAID and a second HDD and still have money left to spare. That beind said, if you really want to get into a Linux and you want a dedicated PC, I won't stand in your way. What exactly is it you want that server to do for you right now and long term?
  17. Unplug the PSU from the wall, open your computer, locate the CMOS battery (roundcell type) and carefully remove it. Then hit the power button of your case several times and wait 5 to 10 minutes before putting it back in. That way you will discharge the motherboard and reset the OC, which at the moment is still active. What did you set for OC on that CPU? Do you have a 360 or 420 mm AIO? A Ryzen 9 5950X with a mild boost if you will may end up almost doubling the power drawn. Two things that are very important here and critical: Thermals and the motherboard's VRM. Did you check if it was powerful enough for that job? For OC on 12+ cores you want X470, X570 or decent enough B series boards (check in depth reviews on those, regarding power delivery. I do hope you can get the system back up and running, if not, I'd bet on the motherboard being at fault, rather than the CPU. The CPU can handle quite a bit and won't just die unless the motherboard somehow damaged it. The system shutting down though is a good sign, means the boards protection mechanism worked.
  18. Wait until you have a chunk of money on the side as new stuff is always a bit pricey, though prices might come down by then. You want to check reviews and get the CPU with the highest IPC number you can find that has 8 physical cores (6 is great today, 8 to future proof your system).
  19. No motherboard should have display inputs, what board is that?
  20. Dust seems fine for 2 years. Is that just the camera or is the poor card sagging a bit?
  21. What kind of scaling issues do you have? 4k 60 Hz shouldn't be an issue, provided you use the right adapter or a native USB-C monitor.
  22. You have two features that alter image quality, something called contrast enhancer and HDR, try to turn both off. I don't have a TV like that so I am just guessing here.
  23. That is way out of spec unless you have RAID going or using RAM to cache for the SSD. What benchmark and what program lists those numbers? Internally the controller has a much higher bandwidth but that does not represent usable transfer rates.
  24. Depends on what you want to use it for. As for safety, use in a dedicated space, on dedicated high amp breaker, have an emergency shut off button installed, get a fire extinguisher for electrical fires etc. the list goes on and on. It really depends on what you want to use it for. If powering 12v equipment is your goal here, I suggest using a 12V automotive battery, sealed or AGM with a breaker grounded to an outlet for safety. I would not buy those boards from aliexpress again.
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