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Applefreak

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    Applefreak

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Innsbruck, Austria
  • Interests
    Science & Technolgy, Naturally aspirated V8 engines, PC-Hardware
  • Biography
    I've been building computers for myself and others.

    Here is a quick overview of builds that were and some still are in use by myself:

    1992 - Family computer based on Intel 80286 with 2 MB EDO-RAM Windows 3.1 on HDD plus 5.25 floppy
    1995 - Received old i486 SX 75 MHz computer with a Quantum 1.25 GB HDD, worked well with Windows 95
    1998 - My first new PC, Compaq Presario with an AMD K6-2 400 MHz, ATi Rage Pro with 8 MB VRAM
    1999 - Upgraded the same PC to 256 MB + the original 64 MB SD-RAM, also upgraded the GPU to a ATi Rage 128 Pro
    Also got a better heatsink and overclocked the CPU to 437 MHz stable
    2002 - Build my first PC on a ASRock K7VT2 paired with an AMD Duron 1.3 GHz and 768 MB SD-RAM
    2003 - Upgraded to a Radeon 9100 GPU and upgraded the memory to 1536 MB SD-DDR RAM
    2005 - New build based upon Intel's Pentium 4 Prescott with 2 GB SD-DDR2 on an ASUS P4P800 SE motherboard
    2006 - Replaced the Arctic Cooling Heatsink with my first Water cooling setup
    2007 - New build on an ASRock 775 Dual VSTA motherboard with a Pentium D 930 CPU with 4 GB SD-DDR2 RAM
    Also Watercooled but soon realized that the pump was to weak to add another radiator to overcome the extra heat load.
    So I've upgraded to the then brand new Noctua NH-U12P
    2008 - Switched motherboard to a Gigabyte GA-P35-DS4 and upgraded to 8 GB SD-DDR2 800 MHz RAM
    Later that year upgraded to a Xeon X3360 and 2x Radeon HD 2900 PRO
    2009 - First Radeon died to a flaw in the thermal solution, it got replaced by a HD 3850
    2011 - Replaced that card with a Radeon HD 6850
    2015 - The Radeon card died suddenly, switched to an old 9800 GTX
    2016 - New Graphics Card, EVGA GTX 960 SSC
    2018 - New build, NAS based on OMV, ASUS Sabretooth 990FX with a FX-8350 and 8x 2TB WD RE4 drives in ZFS2 and 16 GB SD-DDR3 ECC
    2019 - Upgraded my main PC, NAS and switch with 10 GB Aquantia AQ107 cards from ASUS
    2019 - Build 3x new office computers based on Athlon 3000G CPUs.
    2020 - Replaced my main PC with a MSI-B550-A Pro motherboard, a Ryzen 3 3100 and 32 GB SD-DDR4 Memory
    2022 - Upgraded the CPU to a Ryzen 5 5600
    2023 - Upgraded the GPU to a MSI RTX 4060 Gaming X

    Planned:

    NAS storage upgrade

    Other interests:

    I am currently rebuilding a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7, a 1985 Dodge Ram 5.9 as well as a 1972 BMW R75/5 motorcycle
    My daily drivers are a 2018 Moto Guzzi V9, a 2006 Jeep Commander V8 and a 2019 Ram 2500 6.4 (work truck)
    Once completed I'd like to rebuild a 1959 Peterbilt 351.

    Folding@home active supporter since 2009, Team: 179802
  • Occupation
    Retail

System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 5 5600
  • Motherboard
    MSI B550-A Pro
  • RAM
    32 GB G.Skill Ripjaws V SD-DDR4 @ 3200 CL16 (4x 8 GB DIMM)
  • GPU
    MSI Geforce RTX 4060 Gaming X 8G (load temp 55°C, hotspot 66°C, 1100 rpm default fan curve = very quiet)
  • Case
    Cooler Master ATCS 840: 2x Noctua NF-P12 redux (towards the GPU and cards), 1x Noctua NF-S12A (rear exhaust), 3x Noctua NF-A20 PWM Chromax black (2x top exhaust, 1x front intake)
  • Storage
    ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 512 GB (Windows), 1x SanDisk 480 Plus (for Linux Mint), Crucial BX500 1TB, 1x Toshiba N300 4TB, 1x WD Green 3 TB, 1x Seagate ST2000DX001 2TB
  • PSU
    Be Quiet Straight Power E9 680W CM
  • Display(s)
    AOC i2757 FH
  • Cooling
    Noctua NH-U12P with AM4 upgrade Kit + 1x NF-F12 PWM (replacing the original NF-P12)
    CPU Temp Idle ~43°C, under Load ~72°C, Room Temp 25°C, Idle noise ~ 25 dbA, load noise ~ 36 dbA
  • Keyboard
    Cherry eVolution Stream XT 3.0
  • Mouse
    Logitech M500
  • Sound
    Sennheiser HD 380 pro + JBL 305P MKII @ ASUS Essence STX II 7.1
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 64 Pro + Linux Mint
  • Laptop
    Lenovo ThinkPad T400, Apple MacBook Air M1
  • Phone
    Samsung Galaxy S23

Recent Profile Visitors

2,660 profile views
  1. How well does it do in actual workloads? There is no way a NH-D15 or any other tower cooler today will be enough if you fully load up the processor without dropping clocks. Intel rates the typical max TDP at 253 W. The actual number is quite a bit higher, almost double that actually. Check your results in games etc. Maybe you want to consider cooling it with water instead (360 mm +, preferably open loop).
  2. Did you just disconnect the fan or has it been disconnected while testing it? There is a chance the card may not want to boot up it a component is missing or defective. I'd ask EVGA directly for guidance on this issue. Btw. JB weld or any other type of epoxy does not mend broken channels inside a radiator. It can be a quick short term solution when you are stranded in the middle of nowhere on the side of the road. The proper way would be to either replace the radiator or weld or solder them shut. Epoxy needs several days to fully cure and even then there is still a chance with the glycol it will break loose and clog the pump.
  3. Your HDD might be bad. I've had the same issue, replacing it is quite difficult. A solution would be to boot your system off an external SSD (I use a 3.5" external case for a 2.5" SSD because it has it's own wall adapter, the USB port on those older MACs are a bit limited when it comes to power delivery).
  4. Modern PSUs like that will be able to do both voltages, older one had a tiny red sliding switch at the back. The only thing you need to look out for is to use the right plug type for your wall outlet. Both units you have selected will handle 110-240V just fine.
  5. Clear CMOS after updating the BIOS. If the 3600 works just fine, the 5600 may be bad.
  6. The only kits supported on that board with 128 GB (4x32) are from Kingston @ 5200 MHz CL40, which is not an ideal choice in terms of speed and latency with your processor. It may still work but it hasn't been tested for. Question is if you can even make use of the extra memory at all.
  7. Depends on your platform and how many DIMMS. Many boards won't be stable at 128 GB with more than 2 DIMMs at full XMP / EXPO speed.
  8. Just change the password. You could remove admin rights but that will either lock you out completely or destroy the install. Either way you are better off by either disabling SSH, changing passwords or have only certain MAC addresses allowed to access the machine.
  9. Usually the old key is linked to your MS account so you cannot transfer it over to a different user. However you can buy working keys for far less than that.
  10. Good news first, 85C on 13th gen Intel is fine for some reason. They do run quite hot by design. You can lower clocks and limit boost if your board has those options, also power limit the CPU. You will loose some fps but lower temps significantly enough. Other then that, a 280 mm AIO or better would be the next step. With modern AIOs there is very little risk of leaking. I have had several of the older models and none of them leaked, even after several years. It can happen but usually they either leak right away or not at all. You can test it outside the case before replacing your current heatsink, that also ensures the pump isn't rattling.
  11. Those are RGB controllers not fan controllers, well they are but for RGB only, no power delivery.
  12. Have you tried diffeerent USB ports on your PC? How old ist that PC? The cam seems to only powered by USB, which is fine but it states that it needs USB 3.0 which is confusing as there are different specs in terms of data bandwith but more importantly power delivery. A basic USB 3.0 port may provide about 980 mA while others may offer substantially more. If you have one, you can try with a powered USB hub inbetween to provide extra power to the USB port. What PC or motherboard do you have?
  13. Please buy higher end ones. There is little risk in damaging the phone but I've used cheap cables in a pinch and kink them once by accident and they only charge at abysmal rates, not that they were up to spec before. Please spend the extra 2 to 6 $ on premium cables. As @Kisai said, make sure to get power delivery cables, your phone doesn't need them but they provide better and more stable power delivery for fast charging, even when the connector on the phone gets warm. I mostly use Anker cables, because I can get them fairly quick on amazon and they do last me quite a while.
  14. Whats the productnumber of your laptop?
  15. I believe your question is: What is the GPU to match my Ryzen 7 2700X processor? Why the AM5 upgrade, you can still upgrade on AM4 just fine and save a lot of money.
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