Mattias Edeslatt

Welp, time to make @LAR_Systems chuckle.  In my never ending quest to fill his database with useless info...I'm aiming all 8 watts (at the wall!) of incredible Pentium N3700 folding power at it!  LOL
 
Little fanless micro system that will become my new router once I finish the folding burn in test.  :)

Last week upon hearing of the big switchover, I set WorldCC to 90% resource share, Rosetta and SiDock each to 5% and added SiDock because Rosetta often isn't very active. Einstein at 1% but I have it suspended currently. So, for the newbs that means that if World Community Grid is offline, Rosetta and/or SiDock can still use all cores on all my machines 24/7, but if World comes back online it gets priority once again. Although BOINC sometimes doesn't behave.. but really i'm happy to contribute to any of those 3. 

It gets cold here, so I'd have to go with LiteOn because they start a nice fire for you

Be Quiet. Their PSUs are great, and I've probably heard others fail more than Be Quiet (could be due to popularity but here in Europe they are pretty common), their service is great and somehow these PSUs seem to get less coil whine than others in my experience.
 
Still you shouldn't buy a PSU based on brand, unless it's some weird unknown brand in which case you shouldn't buy it. And I would also avoid Gigabyte, because they don't really care about their customers (their warranty is trash and they think it's normal for PSUs to blow up).

So I decided to open it, since ASUS has made every effort to make sure their RMA process is such a soul crushing experience I'd rather lose my warranty than suffer it again. 
 
Paste was completely cooked and dry. 
 
Upon removing the structural brace/heat dissipator covering the second set of VRM's the thermal pads came apart.
 
 
 
So I repasted with kryonaut, replaced the thermal pads (which happened to be roughly 1.5mm thick.) with Gelid ones and card hasn't crashed at all in two days. I'm back to stock clocks and thermals have gone down by about 20 degrees.
Card is passing stress tests left and right and my fear of eviction has gone away.
 
I had seen a lot of posts about older cards with cooked thermal paste but I guess series 20 cards can also start to show that wear and tear by now. 

I bought my 2080 super back in april 2020, it was brand new in a sealed box.
 
My card is working perfectly so far. I've been putting it through it's paces and with the standard fan curve is so much more quiet (because of much better thermals), but I set up a more aggresive fan curve nonetheless.
 
No more black screens and I'm back to stock clocks, no more underclocking to keep it stable.

Here's a wild concept...  take responsibility for your own actions.

*me, reading your name as polished  chicken*
 
*Me at the FAH Badge store* "I need you to engrave this badge"
 
*Clerk*: "Okay and who would you like for me to engrave this to?"
 
Me:

if you have a spare board around, just swap the batteries of the two boards.
 
- if now the new board is fine and the other has critical amnesia.. you've found your culprit.
- if the new board is still problematic after swapping the battery, swap them back, and RMA the thing.

Wait... if you upgraded the motherboard... why do you have two others to test?
How is any of this the fault of the Blu-ray drive? 
How is getting a M.2 drive going to solve the issue if it's supposedly an issue with the Blu-ray drive according to your diagnosis? 
 
I'm getting more confused as I read your post. 

I just ran through and did a quick fix on some links that were broken. If you notice anything that's needs addressed let me know. I want to keep this as up to date as possible. Shoot ma pm or something. 👍

Just got an Email back from Fractal (totally wasn't expecting a response), they have confirmed that the Meshify S2 front bezel will fit the Define R6. subsequently found a second hand S2 on Ebay for £40/$54 so im happy. 

If you manually set the fan speed to something like 0% or 100% in Afterburner does it respond? If so then the fan curve will probably work fine.

Thats older than many people in LTT's audience. Not even making a joke here, people buy their first keyboard eventually. Someone is buying their first new keyboard every day. Personally, I have been using my keyboard for almost 6 year (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IPKU20/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I like it for its slim profile, but i've seen low profile mechanical keyboard and might upgrade when I upgrade my PC later this year (~6 months or so from now)

The G5 is upgraded, 8gb ram, additional 1tb had.  There was no personal data, but there was a full registered copy of Adobe creative suite.
 
The G4 had more under its hood than what I expected.   Memory was upgraded to 2gb, up from 64mb.  However, the processor upgrade was a very pleasant surprise. Can you imagine getting a processor upgrade that was 3x the speed of your old one? (500 => 1400)

Solved!
Updating the Mobo BIOS fixed it. My PC can now boot and gets a display.
For any future readers that can't get a display out of their PC. It may not be your GPU. Your motherboard might have an old BIOS that does not support your newer CPU.

To update your Mobo BIOS you will need to use an old CPU or you can try AMD's free loaner "boot kit" found here.
Of course, if your board supports it you can use BIOS flashback; which is much more convenient than trying to get your hands on an old CPU or using AMD's "boot kit"
Taking your Mobo to your nearest Micro Center for a BIOS update may also be a convenient option for some of you out there.

Thanks to all who helped me find the solution.

That is complete BS. A GPU doesn't need drivers to get signal out and display something on a screen. It will always show a picture on a screen, the OS on the other hand needs a driver to utilize the card and all of its settings and features. But there is always a video out. How else are you going to install an OS or setup the BIOS? Or use a command prompt if you need a driver to get video out?

This is a total myth. Good PSUs will be designed to be used at 100% capacity for their expected lifetime.

Hey guys, I woke up from my grave. Started my server up with what's left of my GPU collection, which at this point is just a 2070 Super. First WU since feb 2020 😅

You all rock! I've completed a REAL windows re-install and the problem continues to stay away. I'm seeing normal CPU usage while windows installs updates. Now it's time for me to cautiously install all my drivers and re-install my new 3080 (which I pulled out because I thought it maybe possibly could have been the problem haha).
 
You're all MVPs.

Update: You were exactly right. ThrottleStop showed me the C0% actually fluctuating wildly right at startup. Every half a second it'd be 75, 100, 5, 100, 67, etc. then finally just locked itself on 100. I ran those commands you mentioned and low and behold task manager looks normal now and CPU temp has returned to my usual 30-32 at idle.
 
Going with the clean install now to try and just get everything reset from a nice foundation. It feels really nice to know what was causing the issue. Now I just need this nice reset to permanently fix it.

I'm not much of a MAC person, but when someone is giving them away, I can't say no.  A friend of mine gave me the Craigslsit listing, as it somehow evaded my email notifications.  I drove 40 minutes in 1 direction to get everything, and I will admit, I might have exceeded the highway speed limit slightly.  But even the custom power brick (on top of the silver machine) was worth the trip by itself.
 
I haven't looked inside yet, I plan to do that tomorrow.  But the silver G5 is the LAST dual G5 machine made @ 2.7ghz.  and the previous owner had an aftermarket sound/usb/firewire cards installed.  The 500mhz G4 looks mostly untouched, but again has additional usb/firewire.  The 24" LCD is a prize, I sure hope that works, but I've already made out like a bandit.

Why don't you do a quick search on the webb and read up on how to do a Linux install?
 
It is not complicated but you must understand the basics of how it works and how Linux use the filesystem and partitions. 
 
In it doesn't matter if you are trying to install Linux, MacOS or Windows on something else than default installation, when you are doing something that is more then simply click next you must know what you are doing and understand the basics of what the system are going to do. If you don't, you are going to F something up, most likely your data that you don't want to loose. 
 
I highly recommend that you do a backup of your important files. 
 
And the easiest way to not F up a Windows installation when installing another OS is to disconnect that drive physically and when you want to use your other OS you chose to boot from the other disc separately from the BIOS boot-menu you can activate with F2, ESC or what the activation key for the boot-menu is for your specific motherboard. And if you don't select a boot-drive it will boot from the Windows-drive by default.

Disks and partitions under Linux
https://linuxmint-installation-guide.readthedocs.io/en/latest/partitioning.html
 
A beginner’s guide to disks and disk partitions in Linux
https://linuxbsdos.com/2014/11/08/a-beginners-guide-to-disks-and-disk-partitions-in-linux/
 
Understanding the Linux File System
https://etutorials.org/Linux+systems/red+hat+linux+9+professional+secrets/Part+II+Exploring+Red+Hat+Linux/Chapter+7+Red+Hat+Linux+Basics/Understanding+the+Linux+File+System/
 
Installing Linux Mint on the computer
https://linuxmint-installation-guide.readthedocs.io/en/latest/install.html#installing-linux-mint-on-the-computer

How to: Perform a Clean Install or Reinstall of Windows 10
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/insider/forum/all/how-to-perform-a-clean-install-or-reinstall-of/aef0ae63-2117-41ee-a8ea-4a3181625b08