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Mattias Edeslatt

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Everything posted by Mattias Edeslatt

  1. Mattias Edeslatt
    According to TechPowerUP is a 750 Ti 47% better than a GT 1030 2 GB DDR5 in "relative performance". https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/geforce-gt-1030.c2954 A 1030 is nothing you buy to game, you by it to get video-out to a screen if you just need to get a usable desktop on the screen. Well. maybe if you play 10-15 year old games or solitaire or something that don't need more graphical power. @TjSurvivorIf you are just doing some basic gaming a GTX 1050 is a better buy, almost 100% better than a 1030 in "relative performance". A GT 1030 is a turd, you can polish it, but it still is a turd. It has comparable performance with GPU:s from 2009.
  2. Mattias Edeslatt
    OK, I stand corrected But the questions to @DuallyDriver3500 remains. And does it show up in Device Manager? Windows should have drivers for it by default, but if it doesn't the latest drivers from NVIDIA is from 2018. https://www.nvidia.com/Download/driverResults.aspx/132845/en-us
  3. Mattias Edeslatt
    So many questions after reading this post.... How do you mean the BIOS don't recognize the GPU? The BIOS have nothing to do with what GPU you have connected. Not more than to select iGPU or discrete GPU as primary display output, it that even is an option. The GPU have HDMI by the looks of it, between the VGA and DVI-connection. What are you planing on using this for? It is about a 14 years old computer. It has 256 MB VRAM, that it even can show a desktop on Windows 10 is a marvel. I doubt it can playback a video on youtube even at the lowest settings. Remove that PCI-cover that is loose above the GPU before it falls off and short something.
  4. Mattias Edeslatt
    No! There is a reason someone is trying to give it away for free....
  5. Mattias Edeslatt
    And you have checked that it is not sharing PCIE-lanes with the same PCIE-slot that you have installed the graphics card? You find that information in the manual for your motherboard.
  6. Mattias Edeslatt
    If you boot into BIOS everything is fine and it doesn't reboot? Just to verify that the problem not is hardware-related and just applies to Windows. The strange thing is that even in Safe Mode Windows keeps rebooting, it shouldn't do that as it shouldn't load any device-drivers and external software. Or you mean that you can't log in in safe mode but it doesn't reboot? You don't have restore-points activated in Windows so you can revert to a state before you updated the offending software? But you likely need safe mode for that. Can't say for sure as I don't use Windows. Try to remove the cable for the software-control as @SpookyCitrussuggests and see if that make the computer not to reboot.
  7. Mattias Edeslatt
    With such old GPU, do you even need better drivers than what Windows have preinstalled? Or is the card not recognized correctly?
  8. Mattias Edeslatt
    Does the driver support your GPU? https://www.amd.com/en/support/graphics/amd-radeon-hd/ati-radeon-hd-5000-series/ati-radeon-hd-5850
  9. Mattias Edeslatt
    Please don't type everything in a wall of text. Use paragraphs for easier reading and to segment the different parts of what you have done in the text. Will be much easier for anyone to understand and to help. To overclock a processor to fix a problem must be one of the strangest ideas I have ever heard. You can't fix something by going out of spec. Overclocking requires that everything is working and is stable. Regarding EDC it is nothing that is relevant in this situation and what drivers are you talking about? Ryzen Master is not a driver. Without the correct drivers the system would not have worked correctly to begin with. So I doubt that drivers is the issue, nothing in your description is pointing at that. When a PC hangs like you describe the problem usually is hardware related, not in the OS or drivers. By your description of the problem it sound like it is heat-related or power-related and probably around the GPU. Does all the fans work? Dust-related overheating? What temps do you get in idle and when using the system. Try with another GPU from another computer that you know is working to see if the problem persists.
  10. Mattias Edeslatt
    If a heatsink would be required then it wold be sold with one. When NVME-drives launched there was a debate about cooling them (as they run hot) and if I remember correct testing showed that the performance decreased if they where running to cold.
  11. Mattias Edeslatt
    Feels like you haven't told us everything. How did you clean that PC, air-compressor? Vacuum-cleaner? Your "overclocking" of the fans, sounds like you have been in the BIOS to adjust the fan profiles, did the problem happen directly after that? Did you change anything else at the same time? If the issue is directly liked to that, then you need to do a CMOS reset, there is a jumper for that on the MB that you need to short with the tip of the screwdriver. Power of the PC, short out the pins for a couple of seconds, then it should start up and require/prompt for a restore of the BIOS settings.
  12. Mattias Edeslatt
    Does the card need to work harder? It won't work harder then it needs in games and applications. Do you want more utilization of the GPU in the game you need to use higher graphic settings.
  13. Mattias Edeslatt
    The rails that you need should have been mounted in clips in the bottom of the case, if I remember correctly. A "want to buy"-ad or to check with recycle-centers is your best bet to try to get hold of them.
  14. Mattias Edeslatt
    Is the boot-order configured properly? Shouldn't be the problem as that generally generates a "no boot-drive" error and the option to enter BIOS. By your description it sounds that you get "no boot-drive" error when the disc is unplugged and when plugged in it boots straight in to BIOS. When did this problem start? It sounds like the computer have worked just fine. Have you changed anything? Cables, rewired the system? Changed some hardware?
  15. Mattias Edeslatt
    As you have set it up, it is a repeater, not an extender. Extender is connected with a ethernet-wire to our router, a repeater is connected to the WiFi. Do you need an repeater? Do you have good signal? Not speed, signal? If yes, then a repeater wont do you any good. Repeaters as mentioned above could not boost the speed, all it does is rely the same speed and signal it receives but you also increase the latency, now the time from your device have doubled as it now goes from you <-> extender <-> router instead of just you <-> router. The next problem is that different brands of network devices could have problem talking to each other and your best way of success is to buy a repeater of the same brand as your landlord. This could be the explanation to why you can't connect your repeater to the landlords network wireless. You could not get wired access by ethernet or the electric system and connect a access-point from within your basement apartment? https://www.geeksforgeeks.org/difference-between-wifi-repeater-and-wifi-extender/
  16. Mattias Edeslatt
    No, then i don't know either. Only thing left is that something with the BIOS-flash that went wrong as you couldn't enter BIOS after the update and after a reset/clear CMOS it won't even boot. Have you done this? From the manual for the motherboard. https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/mb/E7C56v1.2.pdf
  17. Mattias Edeslatt
    Did the problem start after that your old PSU died or not? Not easy to know then you give different versions on when the problem started. If the problem was there before your old PSU died the problem is elsewhere, either in overheating or drivers. As you have upgraded to Windows 11 and the problem was in Windows 10 the OS is not to be blamed here. Overheating could be CPU or GPU or some chip on the MB. Did the problem start after the old PSU died it could be a cause of the failed PSU that took something more with it in its failure.
  18. Mattias Edeslatt
    My bet is that you have cracked the die as shown in your pictures and then you are SAOL.
  19. Mattias Edeslatt
    If you have watched the series you would know what distros they use. Linus used Manjaro and Luke Linux Mint.
  20. Mattias Edeslatt
    OK then. Then I misunderstood. But the problem could still be the same, or that there is a setting for "Fast Boot" so the time from power-on to loading the OS is truly minimal. You could try to do a CMOS reset to see if that helps, or consult your manual for the MB on whats the default settings for boot is. If you know what the key is for entering BIOS then try to be quick and mash that button to be quick enough to get into BIOS-mode. EDIT: Also check that your monitor is not set to auto-detect which port that is in use, if you are using DVI set the monitor to use DVI-IN as default. Otherwise the monitor doesn't get signal quick enough to start before you are past the POST-screen.
  21. Mattias Edeslatt
    My bet bet is that in the BIOS/UEFI there is a setting that the GPU to use for boot or primary is the iGPU, then you get this exact problem.
  22. Mattias Edeslatt
    What is the point? Those card are about 10-15 years old... and would perform worse than your iGPU.
  23. Mattias Edeslatt
    How did you short the two pins? Normally there is a jumper that you move to short those two pins, that jumper must be moved again so it no longer short out those two pins. By your description it sounds like you still have those two pins shorted, then it does what you describe. I don't understand where the "must remove battery" have come from to reset the BIOS, it is nothing more then to short the two pins with a jumper or the tip of your screwdriver and you are set to go again.
  24. Mattias Edeslatt
    Looks like a regular 72-pinn SIMM, common on 486 and Pentiums up to the P-II-generation when DIMM became the new standard. Most likely 1 MB of RAM per memory-stick as a whole, not per module.
  25. Mattias Edeslatt
    Have you done basic troubleshooting? Have you tested the components before you assembled them in the case? Like mounting the CPU + Cooler, RAM and GPU to see that it boots? Have you verified that the MB and the CPU is compatible? Does it need a BIOS update to support the CPU? The revision of the MB should be printed on the box for it (and even on the MB itself) and then check the page for the MB online to se which revision supports your CPU or it needs to be updated. Have you double checked that you have everything connected the right way from the and on the PSU. Have you tried to start directly at the MB connectors and not from the front-I/O? The RAM is fully inserted?
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