Jump to content

Damian.Byrne

Member
  • Posts

    73
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Damian.Byrne

  1. cool thanks. Will try that once I get home from work.
  2. So a little background. I ordered my gaming rig a year or so ago, it came with a 500GB m.2 SATA SSD with Windows preinstalled, and a 1TB HDD. A while after that, I popped in a WD Red 5TB for some extra storage. A couple months ago, despairing over the direction Windows was taking, I decided to nuke my current install. I formatted everything, and did the following in the following order 1) Installed Windows, using a USB flash drive, to the 1TB hard drive. I then installed any and all possible updates and apps I would be using. 2) Installed Pop!_OS 18.04 to the m.2, and formatted the 5TB drive as ext4, to use as storage for all of my games. My aim is to install my entire Steam library and test each and every game using Proton. Earlier this week, I ordered an external hard drive dock and a WD Blue 2.5" 1TB SATA SSD, intending to clone my Windows install onto it, since boot times using the HDD are so unbearably slow. We're talking about ten minutes from pushing power to getting into my Steam library. At first, I attempted to clone the install using Macrium Reflect from within Windows. That didn't work, maybe because I had the dock connected to my monitor's USB hub. Failing that, I plugged the dock into a separate powered USB hub that is connected directly to my tower. I then had Macrium make an image of my Windows HDD and save that to a separate USB hard drive. After that, I had Macrium burn that image to the new SSD. I got home from work yesterday, and physically replaced the 1TB HDD with the 1TB SSD. Wouldn't boot at all. Just to note, I was being presented with my Linux bootloader, being given the options for Ubuntu (which is what Pop!_OS is essentially) or Windows 10 on SDA1. Whenever I selected Windows in that list yesterday, it would say something along the lines of it couldn't find the OS. So I shrugged, popped in my Windows USB flash drive and reinstalled Windows yet again. Went through the update process, installed my apps, etc. However...I now cannot get into my Pop!_OS at all. At first, I thought maybe Windows had reset my bootloader or something, so I went into the BIOS...but my m.2 SSD, where it's installed, is still listed as first to try to boot from. So I tried forcing booting from that (mashing F12 as soon as I press power). No dice. It skips straight past that into my Windows install. I'm very confused as to what it is I did, since as far as I'm aware, I haven't touched my Pop!_OS at all. It resides entirely on the m.2, and I made absolutely no changes to that when I reinstalled Windows on the 2.5" SSD (the only changes I made in terms of drives and volumes was taking out the 3.5" HDD, putting in the 2.5" SSD, booting from the USB flash drive, and deleting the Windows volume during the install process...which now that I think about it, how did the USB installer even see that volume, since it had been removed?). So that's it. I can't get into my Linux install at all. If need be, I can reinstall...
  3. Nope. The fact it's another machine's boot drive shouldn't be a factor in whether or not it's being detected. Try going into your BIOS, seeing if maybe the actual SATA ports are enabled or disabled. If you're unfamiliar with that, download the tool CPU-Z, it'll tell you your motherboard model. Then google that model and look for a manual on a support page. Or it could just be the drive is dead.
  4. So I recently set up my main gaming rig as a Linux+Windows dual boot. I bought it from a custom boutique. Core i7 8700K, 16GB DDR4 RAM, GTX 1080 Ti, a 1TB Toshiba HDWD110 mechanical hard drive and a 512GB ADATA SU800NS38 m.2 SSD (for those two model numbers, I'm going by what Ubuntu is telling me). Windows was initially installed on the SSD while the hard drive was just pure storage. A few weeks ago, after reading a prominent Forbes contributer, I decided to convert over to Linux gaming. Now, I have Pop!_OS 18.04 installed on the SSD (a fork of Ubuntu), which has a 5TB WD Red for games while Windows is entirely on the Toshiba hard drive. Thing is, booting into it brings back nightmares from my past - it's incredibly slow. I've been booting from SSDs for years, and going back to mechanical makes me want to commit seppuku. I'm wondering - should I replace the Toshiba with a Seagate Firecuda SSHD, or should I throw in a separate SSD and use that as cache? If I go for an SSD, I'll be buying them from a local store, and here is their selection, any recommendations? https://www.currys.ie/ieen/internal-ssd/data-storage/solid-state-drives/355_4681_32418_xx_ba00013232-bv00312153/xx_xx_xx_xx_5-6-criteria.html If recommended an SSHD, I can get a 1TB 3.5" Firecuda for 92 euro, or 2TB for 112 euro, although I think I'd stick with the 1TB. I only plan to go into Windows for whatever games that strictly require it and refuse to work with Linux. However, I would have to add about 40 euro to that cost in order to get a hard drive dock, so I can clone my Windows install from the Toshiba to the Firecuda. For what it's worth, I just now went into my BIOS. I set the SATA configuration from AHCI to Intel RST Premium with Optane Support (I don't have Optane), saved, rebooted, only to get dumped back into the BIOS. Resetting back to AHCI gives me back access to my operating systems.
  5. Just wondering. If I borrow my sister's Xbox 360 and download onto it all the games I've gotten for free through live gold, would she be able to play them as long as she stays offline?
  6. Okay then. So I won't bother looking at Macbook Pros. Thanks for that. So what about my questions regarding Linux and Windows? Are there laptops with high core count (4 or 6) but relatively weak GPUs? As for performance in Linux, is that true? I've just checked the Nvidia site, the latest Linux driver is 418.43, compared to Windows's 419.35. I follow this guy Evangelho from Forbes.com, who's going to put out a guide for gaming on Linux soon, in various different flavours.
  7. Thing is, I'm looking at a video right now that I found just after your last reply of someone running a 1080 Ti eGPU on his macbook. Also it may be my autistic'ness, but what does the vendor of GPU have to do with what OS's a machine can boot?
  8. What do you mean? Does Linux/OS X not support Nvidia eGPUs, only Radeon? I'm looking at Nvidia drivers for my 1080 Ti, and there's only Windows and flavours of *nix listed. So Apple computers are out of the question for me, I guess.
  9. I mentioned MB because I've only ever used macOS once before in my life (about 18 years ago) so purely out of curiosity. I think I've heard noise about 6 core Windows laptops coming out. Oh yeah...what about Linux support for eGPUs? Same questions about drivers. My ultimate go to gaming machine would be either a triple boot OSX+Windows+Linux or dual boot Windows+Linux.
  10. I have a 2.1 Logitech speaker set up at home using an external Creative soundcard and I would be using a mouse regardless of OS. As for out and about, I use headphones, sometimes wired, sometimes Bluetooth. So what you raised would not be a concern for me. Thanks anyway.
  11. So a short while back, Linus released a video about the ultimate stealth desktop experience, one where he doesn't have a traditional desktop tower at all, but rather a laptop that he carries around, and then when he comes home, he slides it under the top of the desk and connects it to an eGPU via Thunderbolt. I'm considering doing it myself with my next computer sometime either at the end of this year or in early 2020. At the moment, I have a desktop with a core i7 8700K, 16GB RAM and a GTX 1080 Ti, connected to an Acer Predator XB1. I also have an Alienware 15" laptop, with a mobile core i7 7700HK (or HQ, can't remember which), 16GB RAM and GTX 1060 6GB (no Gsync though) (which I got for only a thousand euro). What Linus said in the video makes sense. Why pay for two motherboards, two CPUs, RAM etc when you can only ever use one at a time? So I'm thinking of getting a laptop with thunderbolt 3 and sticking my 1080 Ti in an enclosure. I'm not an FPS junkie (as long as I have above 60 at 1440p, I'm happy). What I want to ask is for those of you who DO have a laptop with eGPU. 1) Which laptop do you recommend? 2) If your laptop has AMD graphics, are there conflicts when/if you connect it to an Nvidia GPU? Can you have both sets of drivers installed at the same time? I know there are conflicts on desktop but I'm wondering about laptops here. 3) If your laptop with AMD graphics but connected to an Nvidia GPU is connected to a Gsync display, do you still get Gsync? 4) Would it make sense to get a Macbook Pro to use as my sole daily driver, and install Windows in Bootcamp? How bad is the thermal throttling on a MBP? 5) Are there any laptops that have six or more cores (with or without hyperthreading) but a relatively weak GPU (whether iGPU or discrete)? I like to contribute to F@H and BOINC, so my practise is to throw a few cores at them while I'm doing light tasks. Just to be clear, I'm not going to replicate Linus's setup from that video. I don't mind clutter on my desk.
  12. Perhaps what you mean to suggest is for manufacturers to make old devices work only in a walled garden of sorts, with only a white list of apps? So even if a device that is restricted to communicating with Youtube and a few other apps happens to get hacked and made part of a bot net, it won't be able to communicate with the bot net? I dunno...do we want to take away the ability to side-load apps? I don't like the thought of dropping hundreds or even a couple thou on a device, and then a few years down the line, it gets effectively crippled just because of something that might happen.
  13. I'm watching the WAN on Youtube now, paused at the discussion about forced disconnections from the net via software updates. Here's my two cents: Such a thing, in my opinion, makes sense, for a relatively cheap phone, or one bought on contract. However, even high end flagship phones can be bought sim free. I just checked, I can buy a sim free 512GB Galaxy S10+ for 1,319 euro. And yet, Samsung, to the best of my recollection, only ever commits to two years, two operating system update cycles even for flagship phones. So my theoretical S10+ will come with Android 9, and will be updated to 10 & 11 at some point. But after that? SOL, unless I want to go the custom ROM route, such as LineageOS. Heck, I bought a Galaxy Tab S4, which launched only last August, with Android 8, and as far as I'm aware, Samsung are planning only on upgrading it to 9. This is one reason why I'm strongly considering going iPhone for the first time in my life, once my current contract runs out. For the amount of money I'm paying for the device, I want to be seeing years, multiple, of software updates.
  14. Good advice...especially since Linus published a video recently on reusing mining cards. Yeah, I'll keep an eye out for them as well.
  15. That's awesome. Great. I'll keep an eye out for such a 1050 then.
  16. Hey, I'm just wondering. My gaming rig is a Core i7 8700K, 16GB RAM and a GTX 1080 Ti. I want to make efficient use of it for folding while I'm gaming. Currently, while I'm not power-using (that is, I'm just browsing the web, watching videos etc, nothing heavy), I have F@H set to use 6 CPU threads and full use of my GPU. When I want to game, I turn off GPU folding. I'm wondering...if I get a second GPU, purely for folding, would that be efficient? I'm not looking to fold 24/7, just whenever I'm on the machine. I ran a quick benchmark earlier. I only lose 20 frames between keeping the CPU folding on (6 threads) versus it off (I went down from 116 average to about 90 something at 1080p, all settings at maximum). I had a look at small cards like say the 1030, but I'm wondering if it would be worth it, considering it only has something like 300 odd CUDA cores. I'm not looking to get a card that requires a PCI-E power connector.
  17. I had a thought. What about an adaptor for the cable coming from a portable hard drive to go to the micro-USB port on my Samsung tablet? Anyone used one of those? Concerns here are 1) Android/VLC/Kodi/ES File Explorer support for the file system on the drive. Do Android devices read exFAT and/or NTFS? 2) Power draw for the hard drive. I understand tablet manufacturers think about power going into the device, but out? Would my Samsung tablet give enough power for a 2.5" portable hard drive?
  18. Because I don't have great internet. I just did a speedtest, my upload is 2.7 Megabits/sec. Not enough for 1080p. That and I'm not fully familiar with port forwarding and all that. I'd rather not accidentally leave a way open for someone to hack my network. I'm confident enough to run NAS's at home, but not to remote to them. Especially since my workplace wifi is open, has no security at all beyond giving an email address on a portal login.
  19. From what I understand about SSHDs, you the user do not and should not see the SS portion of the drive. That portion is managed automatically by the drive's firmware itself, and populates it with files that are accessed most frequently from the mechanical hard drive portion. What I think you might have is a a SSHD that has two volumes. You'll want to go into Disk Management, delete Drive D and then extend Drive C to use the capacity that was formerly Drive D. Just click your start button, or click the magnifying glass next to it, type in Disk Management, and click on what pops up and do your thing there. Make sure you back up any important data from Drive D first.
  20. So guys, I'm looking to get a wifi hard drive to use at work so I can carry a good chunk of my anime collection. Files are either MP4 or MKV. The two devices that I'll be using it with are a Samsung Galaxy Tab A6 T580 tablet, or my Linx 12X64 Windows tablet. I'm looking for 2TB capacity, although 3 would be great. I've also just found out there are these devices (literally never heard of them before today for some odd reason), that are basically mini file servers that accept hard drives via USB. Devices like the following https://www.amazon.co.uk/RAVPower-Wireless-Portable-Companion-Streamer/dp/B076M3X2GR/ref=sr_1_29?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1533028111&sr=1-29&keywords=wireless+hard+drive I might go with one of those devices, because then I can use different hard drives. Any recommendations? I'd prefer a device that will let me select the video file I want through VLC or Kodi, and play it in those apps (thus meaning my tablets handle the video decoding). I've been reading bad reviews for WD wireless drives, so what does the community think? Thanks.
  21. Hey guys, I have my old gaming rig I'm looking to sell. It has an m.2 SSD for a Windows boot drive and I'm looking for how to securely delete everything on it. Thing is, what I've found online tells me that securely deleting an SSD is different to a hard drive. I've found a few tools, but either they require me to run from within Windows (which I obviously can't do in this situation) or are paid (which I'll only do as a last resort). I'd vastly prefer a Linux tool that can be run off of USB flash drive.
  22. Don't suppose there's a way to force the Shield to update to Oreo, or do I literally have to wait for Nvidia to allow it? Surely all Shields go to the same server for updates...
  23. Hey peeps, I'm looking for some advice. I've currently got a GTX 1060 6GB, Core i5 6600K and 16GB RAM. I'm looking to upgrade. I'm highly tempted to order a new computer, a custom build. I'm leaning towards getting an eighth gen core i7; I did consider a R7 1700X but I've checked some benchmarks and it actually loses to my 6600K. However, here's where I'm currently scratching my head. The builder I'm going to order off of lists as an option a 1080 Ti; I want that, considering I already have a 4K HDR TV. They're charging a 1000 euro for it. They don't list which brand it is, but I'm guessing it's an aircooled one, Thing is...on a local second hand site, someone is listing a a liquid cooled AIO 1080 Ti for 1200 euro. So guys, what do you recommend? 1) Complete new build, with 1080 Ti from the builder 2) Complete new build, but get the liquid cooled 1080 ti 3) Just get the liquid cooled 1080 ti, don't bother with a new build Does the liquid cooled card represent an extra 300 euro in value, above what the builder would charge for an air cooled?
  24. I found this tutorial, and I think I can follow it. About the only problem I am having is with my router's port forwarding page, as I haven't got a clue what to do there. https://pimylifeup.com/raspberry-pi-vpn-server/
  25. So...I've got a Raspberry Pi 3 with a self-powered USB hard drive set up on my home network. The Pi is wired into a switch, which is then itself wired to my ISP supplied modem/switch/router combo unit thing. Raspbian is installed, all latest updates. I've got SFTP while at home sorted out. The Pi is at address 192.168.1.20. I'm able to stream media over wifi or ethernet just fine. My Nvidia Shield TV handles everything I can throw at it flawlessly, while downstairs, the first generation Amazon Fire TV stick struggles with 1080p blu-ray rips. Amazingly enough, while I'm transferring files to the Pi's hard drive from my desktop via SFTP, the Pi is still able to serve 1080p 10-bit encoded anime to my Shield. Was honestly surprised at that, I thought that the Pi's ethernet would have been saturated with transferring files, since the ethernet is on a USB 2 bus. Anyway, I want to control my Pi via the internet when I'm out and about. Specifically, I want to be able to select, start and stop torrents. Right now, I'd like help please with port forwarding. Check attachments for what the port forwarding on my router looks like. I don't know what to do. I've got the Pi's internal address, 192.168.1.20 and my external IP is 51.37.xx.yy (while I'm a noob at this sort of stuff, I know not to give the full address). What do I do? Thanks in advance.
×