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raine

Member
  • Content Count

    59
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About raine

  • Title
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

System

  • CPU
    AMD FX-6300 3.5 Ghz
  • Motherboard
    Asus M5A97 LE R2.0
  • RAM
    (2x4GB) 8 GB Hyper X Fury DDR3 1866 Mhz (White) + (2x4GB) 8 GB Hyper X Fury DDR3 1866 Mhz (Black)
  • GPU
    EVGA GeForce GTX 970 Superclocked ACX 2.0
  • Case
    Bitfenix Neos (Black/Red)
  • Storage
    120 GB Kingston V300 2.5" SSD + 250GB Samsung 850 Evo 2.5" SSD + 1 TB Western Digital Blue 3.5"
  • PSU
    Rosewill Glacier 500W
  • Display(s)
    ViewSonic VX2453mh-LED 24.0"
  • Cooling
    2x Corsair AF120 (Red)
  • Keyboard
    Bluefinger M-200
  • Mouse
    Anker AK-98AN2000-BA
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

521 profile views
  1. I have been trying to find the unicodes for F1-F10 for a while now and I can't find anything, so I figured someone here might be able to help. The reason I am trying to find the unicodes is because to re-assign a new function to just pushing a key while leaving the shift+key unaltered. I am using an application called "Microsoft Keyboard Layout Creator" and am trying to move F1-F10 to the 1-0 keys just above the letters, while keeping the special characters there with shift+number. The reason I am doing it is because a game I played in the past is being brought back, but the skill/item slots are F-F10 rather than 1-0 in more modern game. It isn't a big issues, just hoping to make a QoL improvement. I know it would be doable through registry diting, but I am wanting to assign it to a second language on the keyboard, so when I am not playing the game I don't have to mess around, just change keyboard type from F key @ 1-0 to the default setup.
  2. The only issue is finding that battery somewhere under the chiclet keyboard on my ultraslim laptop. I've taken the bottom off before to clean out dust, but I didn't see a way to remove the motherboard from under the keyboard.
  3. I would update to windows 10, but in doing that it would be both tedious and potentially cause irreversible issues ... I have looked on the manufacturer site (the PC came with no OS/Driver installation media, just a few different recovery partitions that I don't want to mess with). I understand that drivers from Vista and newer will work on Windows 10, but I don't really have the time to try and hunt down a proper chipset driver for windows 10. The USB is an idea, but the issue is that to boot from USB I need to get into the bios (which is easy to access, but the manufacturer has set a BIOS password). I tried talking to their support team, but they weren't any help. I know this is all negative, but I was hoping for some ideas that don't involve a full OS installation (which I would have to run when I get home from work, which isn't really an option).
  4. So I am currently stuck using a laptop (nowhere to permanently setup a computer) and am having issues with wireless (no hardwiring option available). The dedicated wireless card is a Qualcomm Atheros AR5BWB222 and I have had issues with it for the past 3+ years using it for wireless (it would connect for max of 2 hours and require a full pc reboot and a network hard reset to reconnect) so I don't really have that as a viable long-term option. Recently I have been using my Galaxy Note 9 and supplied internet via USB-tethering (sharing wi-fi not LTE data) and it was going well until about a month ago, where I would get net for about half an hour and then it would just change to no internet access (even checked on the phone and it's wi-fi was fine) I would have to turn off USB-tethering shut off my phones wi-fi and then do the reverse and after doing that I would get 10 minutes if I am lucky and have to rinse and repeat if I wanted to do anything on the computer requiring internet. I have searched endlessly on the net trying to find a fix for these issues, the wi-fi card I have tried all the available firmwares and the USB-tethering hasn't gotten any better since the recent update for my Note 9. The wi-fi I can use is charged on a monthly per-device basis (the USB-tethering is a workaround as it is all seen as net used on my phone) I don't have the ability to reset the internet here so getting my laptop a month long net access pass for a short period of working wifi time would be a waste of $. I was wondering if anyone has any bright Ideas, I know all over the internet people are saying 8.1 has tons of networking issues (I have spent the past 6 months (approx 200+ hours) searching for a fix to no avail .. so I am beginning to think there isn't a fix to this but I have been surprised by the knowledge of some of the people here so I figured I'd give it a shot as the worst that can happen is bricking the PC that has a deep hatred of the internet ...
  5. I recently had my Monster Black Platinum headphones break (the band going over the head is plastic and has nothing inside for rigidity) and Monster's customer service is just abhorrent. I purchased them back in July 2017, but they claim I bought them in January 2017 (so their 1 year warranty is expired) and despite me repeatedly explaining to them that it is July, not January they refuse to listen. So I need new headphones that won't break in < a year. In the past (2010-2016 I went through multiple pairs of Skullcandy Aviators) The main issue being that until 2013/2014 the cable wasn't removable. What eventually ended the ones with a replaceable cable was one of the joints (the headphones were collapsible) had the pin that allowed the ear cups to fold in shifted far enough out of it's hole that one of the ear cups was close to falling off. The things I am looking for in the headphones are Price point: MAX $300 CAD, though I would prefer to be in more of the $200-250 range Headband: Must have a metal band going through the length of it. Magnets: Neodynium Cable: Removable non-proprietary connector (female 3.5mm receptacle on headphone) Noise Cancelling: Passive Headphone type : Over-ear Internal battery for Bluetooth/Active Noise Cancelling: No I have looked into the list of recommended headphones, and the 2 I found interesting were Sennheiser HD 280 PRO and Audio-Technica ATH-M40x (both of which when iI investigated further are prone to failure around the swivel point of the ear cups.) These headphones will be worn outside, and may spend extended periods of time with the headband across the back of neck with the ear cups sitting around chest area.
  6. Much easier sounds nice, but unless the tablet has a 10"+ screen with a detachable keyboard dock that has a USB port that folds closed like a laptop I'd rather go with a second monitor. I'd rather avoid buying a case, stand and all the adapter cables that most people would end up buying to use the tablet as a multi-purpose device. The only thing I've seen that really fits the criteria is almost a decade old now and I'd prefer to avoid decade old refurbished technology and keep to stuff released <12 months ago.
  7. I am currently running a ViewSonic VX2453mh-LED at 1080P via HDMI and am considering adding a second monitor to the setup (gaming and watching vids simultaneously) and was wondering what, if any performance hit I might see while gaming if I was to get that second monitor.
  8. So I found a way to fix the issue, I had to go into power management and disable Fast Startup (apparently it is causing issues).
  9. Both were already disabled, also holding the power button on front panel for 3 seconds forces it to reboot. The card also has a required 9 pin USB header that is says is needed for the Bluetooth (which is currently connected). Could this be causing the power cycling ? Other people have this issue too. I will try contacting Asus, hopefully they have a fix for this.
  10. Today I replaced my D-Link XTREME N Wireless PCI wireless adapter (released during Draft-N with no firmware update) with an Asus PCE-AC55BT Wireless & Bluetooth combo card (PCI-e 1x). Due to my motherboard layout, I didn't have adequate clearance between the available PCI-e 1x slot (one was covered by GFX card) and my GTX 970 so I opted to move the wireless card into the 2nd PCI-e GFX card slot (running at 8x). This seemed to work and fit fine, but when I booted the computer, and installed the drivers I then went and hit Shut down and it seemed to act normally, but when the fans would turn off, it decided to boot itself back up again. I was hoping someone might be able to help me fix the issue. For now I am resorting to hitting the power switch on the PSU before it reboots itself to turn it off, but I want it to go back to working like it is supposed to.
  11. I currently have a D-Link DWA-552 Draft N wireless card installed in a PCI slot and am going to replace it with a PCI-e 1x Asus PCE-AC55BT wireless+BT combo card and am looking for a way to remove the D-link driver(without installing anything, be it software or freeware) prior to the installation of the new card (to minimize chances of possible issues arising).
  12. A couple questions I need verified before I can give you my opinion. 1) Before you removed the CPU and cooler, did you turn off the PSU and then hit the power button again to empty the capacitors? 2) Did you try resetting the CMOS?
  13. So I kind of fixed it ... it required me to do another full factory reset with the new provider's sim in and then manually enter in all the APN info before I finished setup. So far it has worked fine for the past couple days with no connection drops so far, so fingers crossed.
  14. Well part of the issue is that unless your fans in the front and back are both changed to exhaust when the top 3 are intake you are trying to pull in 5x as much air as you are pushing out. Even with the positive air pressure pushing air out through the vents in the back, the fans are still trying to pull in air and that air is creating more pressure to a point where it is high enough that the air is trying to escape out the top, which is creating more resistance so the fans have to work harder to pull air in.
  15. I tried both the providers in a different unlocked phone and they both got mobile data and it worked 100% fine, so unless there is a specific antenna that only works with a few providers then I don't think that's it ...
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