FAQBytes

Ah, count me corrected. I must be thinking of something that reduces hard bricking aside from redundant BIOSes then, unless the culture seems to be changing away from being so hesitant to do so for some reason.

In general, at least in the past, updating the bios was only ever done if it was necessary to fix a problem. While this was to reduce the probability of it going wrong by reducing the number of times you mess with the BIOS, it may no longer be an issue with redundant BIOS in more modern motherboards, however, in general, I have seen people recommend against messing with BIOS flashing unless it is absolutely necessary or you are doing something with your hardware that it dying is within the realms of expectation (e.g. LN2/DICE/<0 overclocking). Regardless, if the problem is solved, the problem is solved.

Good to know I was at least on the right track. Good to have someone who has experience working with them rather than just theoretical stuff for businesses.

Pretty expensive to not be an ultrabook and not have a dGPU.

That case has tall enough feet that even carpet shouldn't be a problem.

Are you on carpet or hard surfaces? How tall are the feet of the case and how far is the bottom of the case from the ground? (mention case model)

+1 While it is possible to add off-site ram to (primarily specialized) computers in very specialized use-cases, hooking it up through thunderbolt 3 you're basically now using a RAM drive with basically none of the benefits. Honestly, it isn't even much faster than NVME (~5 GB/s theoretical vs 3.5 GB/s actual performance in Samsung's 970 Pro limited to 4 GB/s theoretical) to the point where the difference is negligible and the latency is going to kill every bit of extra potential performance gains and then some. Not to mention paying out the nose for RAM.

Why are reflashing your BIOS in the first place?

Their comments are regarding quality of the components in the PSU and the quality of power supplied (not the amount of power supplied). http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=351 http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story4&reid=351 While it isn't a platinum rated unit by any means, you could definitely do worse, but as they mentioned, a lot of gold units aren't too much more in price for (usually) better warranty, QC, ripple, build quality, etc.

I've done more on worse, but sure, better power supplies are always better.

Nope. Max power draw is still less than 300w at stock.

Yes, many people run an 8700k and 1080 off the corsair SF450 in SFF builds.

I would personally recommend the I5-8600/k or equivalent ryzen CPU and a slightly cheaper motherboard.

What do you plan to game with? What games specifically at what resolution (and quality) and what is your FPS target? I think you can get a far cheaper CPU and motherboard and be just as happy.

In general, optical mice rely on comparing what it sees on the surface and how it moves, compared to a laser mouse which tends to go a little deeper into the mouse pad itself, hence it worked fine. If the surface is uniform, then it is difficult to track, so try finding something that has surface patterns.

@nicklmg @LinusTech The issue you're having is a motherboard one, as it needs a compatible BIOS. I don't remember directly without re-watching other videos which board you are using. There are some ASUS LGA-2011 (/-3) compatible motherboards, and some ASRock ones with a special BIOS as well. https://streamhpc.com/blog/2015-08-01/xeon-phi-knights-corner-compatible-motherboards/ Potential software (driver) source. https://software.intel.com/en-us/articles/intel-manycore-platform-software-stack-mpss#wn38rel

Interesting.

No one site is going to be cheapest for everything.

If the laser diode is dead, unless it is a very expensive mouse, just buying a new one is your best option unless you have all the equipment to do smd rework safely.

Barebones Setup: Asus Strix Z270F Gaming Corsair CX(?)850W PSU (From previous build) Corsair DDR4 2666 CL16 i7-7700k Symptoms: Computer CPU, RAM, and motherboard upgrade fails to boot, even to bios. PC goes through what seems to be a standard Asus boot procedure: Aura LEDs on before start; when booting, the fans ramp up to Max, then after some seconds come back down to normal levels. During all of this, none of the diagnostic LEDs light up, as described by some others with this motherboard. At the point where the bios splash screen should come up, nothing is displayed. Monitor receives no input, and the input has been verified to be correct by plugging the same cable into a PS4 and receiving an input. USB, both on motherboard and external, receive no power. Bios revision is 0906, where 0604 is minimum for 7xxx series CPU support. (Known issue with Asus z270 boards with 0503 not supporting Skylake) NOTE- this is not my PC, but one I am helping a friend with. I will have access early in the morning. Troubleshooting steps taken (chronological order): Power connections verified and replugged Fan connections tested and locations checked. Fan was moved to CPU header. RAM reseated RAM reduced to one stick in recommended slot for single stick operation Dedicated GPU removed and iGPU tested (GTX 1070 FE) RAM switched to other stick Different slot tested and failed (other channel not tested in this manner) CMOS cleared RAM switched to other stick All USB removed (may need to test without mouse and keyboard attached during boot) CMOS cleared Troubleshooting steps to be taken in morning: Test-bench motherboard test with known working PSU (and known working RAM?) Reseat CPU and check pins for damage Test 7700k in different motherboard(may not have immediate access) Test RAM in known working PC In the meantime, does anyone have any suggestions for what I may have missed or additional tests to try? I've not had too many dead CPUs or motherboards, so I'm slightly out of my range of experience.

I have the FTW edition of the card. The SC isn't much slower at all, but does have a slightly smaller heatsink. Overall it's a fine card.

I'm not an Apple guy, but hey, knowledge is knowledge, and I get that feeling. Good luck and may obscure specifications be ever in your favor.

Highly unlikely to get both done with an Apple device and one port. You'd likely be better off getting an Android tablet with a dedicated mini HDMI out. You never know though, heck, I've been doing things people say couldn't (or rather shouldn't) work for years now.

There are far better deals out there. Look at r/buildapcsales. I follow that pretty closely and there's some good deals. There's another site that used to be owned by those at meh that I can't seem to remember. Overall, with RAM and GPU prices as they are, unless you can barter yer arse off on Facebook marketplace or craigslist, prebuilt is in right now.