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OneRingRuler

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  • Posts

    24
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California

System

  • CPU
    Intel i7 4770K
  • Motherboard
    Asus Sabertooth Z87
  • RAM
    16GB G-Skill Rampage
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 780 Lightning
  • Case
    Modified NZXT Switch 810
  • Storage
    240GB Boot SSD, 480GB Storage SSD
  • PSU
    Silverstone 850 Watt
  • Display(s)
    1080P 27" Samsung x2
  • Cooling
    Custom loop w/3x140 rad, CPU only
  • Keyboard
    Razer Black Widow Ultimate, Cherry Blue
  • Mouse
    Corsair RGB M65
  • Sound
    Creative Omni 5.1 External DAC
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro, 64-bit
  • PCPartPicker URL

OneRingRuler's Achievements

  1. Those headphones look ridiculously comfy, I would love to win even just one of these items!
  2. It's not the solution for everyone, but I consider myself an enthusiast. Maybe delidding is a bit excessive for those not willing to take a big risk, but I used Liquid Pro on a friend's CPU that is in a Silverstone Raven mini-itx build. His temps dropped by 5-10 degrees C depending on CPU load.
  3. You need to delid that CPU, and put some Cool Laboratory Liquid Pro between the die and the IHS, then use some between the IHS and your heatsink. Temps will be 10-20 degrees C lower than without it. Speaking from experience, here.
  4. If you really want to keep the laptop and the battery life is realy only 3 hours, save a lot of money, and buy a new extended life battery. You won't mind the slight extra bulk when you're getting 6-7 hours of life from a single charge.
  5. You got a couple thousand dollars lying around, kid? Because, that's how you get data off of a formatted HDD. http://www.drivesaversdatarecovery.com/
  6. I have a GTX 780 Lightning from MSI that I have tried overclocking, but can only squeeze another ~100MHz out of it. I installed the latest version of GPUz to check the ASIC quality, and it says 85%... doesn't this mean that I have quality silicone? I have always been weary to touh the voltage, so any tips on in depth overclocking is very much appreciated.
  7. This is good to know, thanks. Is it preferable to use a USB 3.0 flash drive, or can I get away with one of my spare 2.0 drives?
  8. Is there much defference between the Red and the Red Pro drives? I thought that the Pro were only useful in Enterprise NAS with up to 16 drives.
  9. Is there anything upon which I can improve? Never built a NAS before, so is the memory overkill to take advantage of more resource hungry features of FreeNAS, or should I bump up to an i5 CPU? All constructive input is appreciated! B) http://pcpartpicker.com/p/DyrtD3
  10. This man hit the nail right on the head. If you are going to build a custom loop (and custom is ALWAYS expensive), you need to accept the fact that it will cost you AT LEAST $300, and since you want to build with hard line tube, you can add another $100, with the cost of a heat gun, tube bending kit (if you want to be certain of your bends), and getting extra tubing to account for the messed up bends that will inevitably happen.
  11. Is the latest version of Corsair Link officially supporting Windows 10? Since the fans are okay when direct to your board, keep them connected that way for now, until a stable version of Link comes out for 10. If Link is compatible with 10, officially, then setup a profile to be as quiet as possible, connet everything as it is supposed to be, then let us know the results.
  12. Not sure how the power button would cause this issue... Did you just upgrade to Windows 10? One of my coworkers has a similar issue, where Windows will load, but the screens will flicker off and on continuously. Try connecting just one of the monitors, then get the latest graphics drivers.
  13. Wince Corsair link is installed, have you opened it up to see what performance profile it is set to? Are you using the fans that came with the unit, or are they your own? Are the fans 3 or 4 pin? Do you have any other available fan headers to attach them to, or maybe a fan hub/controller?
  14. it may not even be your computer. Is your monitor exceptionally hot after gaming for a long time, or does it take a minute to come on when you first turn it on? If your tower is on the desk, take off the side panel and smell around for the culprit. Is the smokey smell closer to smelling like burnt plastic/rubber?
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