Corsair Joseph

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. This might be late to suggest, but if you are getting CPU_fan error in BIOS (assuming that's where your pump is connected), It is possible that your pump's rpm is fluctuating, where it should be running around 2200rpm the moment you turn on your system. I'd suggest that you have it swapped out via RMA. You already have a ticket # right?

Very interesting feedback guys, keep them coming.

1. It'd help if we know your ambient temp, that way we can tell you if 40°C is reasonable based on your room temp. CPU error is typically caused by not having a fan connected to your MB CPU_fan header OR there's something connected but your BIOS is not sensing a fan rpm or in your case, a pump rpm. Since you've mentioned that your LED pump is not lit, it is possible that your pump has no power. Do you have the rad fans connected to the pump? if so, are they running. 2. Clicking sound from the pump is usually caused by air trapped in the unit like what's been suggested above. It'd normally work itself way out of the system after a couple of days of operation. 3. Again, ambient temp would be a good baseline here to find out if those temps are normal or not. Poor contact between the cooler's coldplate and CPU is also a possibility, so just double check if you have a little play on the pump. Overall, a faulty pump would be the simplest explanation, but it wouldn't hurt to check other causes before making that assumption. Worst case scenario, it's proven to be the pump, then I would simply follow what our customer service suggested to you to get a replacement cooler. And btw, can you contact your reseller and see if they can do the swap for you? Stores would normally have policy where you can return an item for a replacement within a period of time right?

Great choice of case and cooler I'm sure that you won't be disappointed. Yes, please post some photos and let us know what your thoughts are on that new cooler

Since that was a technology demo and still in its early stages, a lot of things can still happen between today and the official release date. We'll just have to wait and see.

I was going to post the same link but you beat me to it lol @Geek - You've made an excellent choice choosing the H75, you've got it for a very good price. It's one of our best cooler over the years.. and you said it yourself, it's the sweet spot for the performance/value

It's been done many times like this one http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=101461. Technically, we don't recommend it the fact that it voids your warranty which is 5 years in your case, and we don't think there is a real benefit in performance when you expand an AIO cooler due to the pump flow rate is only optimal with the factory set up. Anything beyond its current state, like adding a res or using a longer/bigger tubes, the result is going to be unknown to us.. That said, I personally like seeing these AIO coolers get modded, it cool when people get all creative with it

Try powering it up without be plugged in to the UPS and see if it makes a difference. Check your 24pin connector and 12V EPS and make sure they are seated properly. If everything seems to be in place and you're still not getting power, I would then test the PSU using the paper clip method just to see if the PSU will pass. You can see it on our FAQ page on how it works, http://www.corsair.com/en/support/faqs/power-supplies

That's right, totally forgot about that. Thanks for the reminder, I'll go ahead and do that.

The new Sails logo is actually Corsair unifying the DIY PC logo and our gaming logo into one, http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2015/june/introducing-the-new-sails-logo Glad to see that many of you guys like it

$399 for the bundle, that includes the chassis, mITX board, H5SF CPU liquid cooler, and an SFX 600watt PSU. Like most of you guys here, the overall look/ID didn't really get me at first, but seeing it in person changes everything. The overall build quality is a lot more compelling when you get up close and personal.

I don't think Bulldog has its own logo, unless they did something again that I am not aware about Only one Bulldog that I know of....and its really cool

This is really close Yes, George is the sole Product Manger for cases, but he is not the one leading this project

I wouldn't even bother changing the TIM that;s already pre-applied on the cooler's coldplate. The H60 comes with Dow Corning TC-5026 thermal paste, one of the best you can find in the industry.

Did you remove the Corsair Link profile first like it was suggested on that post before re-installing Corsair Link? What about the moving the USB connector, did you try using a different USB header on your board? Since this is a detection issue, It's probably worth a shot trying a mini type B to type A USB cable, like this, http://content.etilize.com/large/10015544.jpgand plug it to one of the USB ports on the rear I/O.

Those temps are relatively low, not saying that your load temp is too high, but there's probably a couple of things that you can try to lower it down a tad bit. Have you tried flipping the fans? or maybe change your case airflow set up and see what orientation is optimal for you system. Also, those Noctua fans, are they static pressure fans?

Low 80s is not bad under full load. What is your ambient temp and idle?

By default, no, the cooler will not fit. We don't have the H100i cooler listed as compatible with our SPEC-01 case, http://www.corsair.com/en/blog/2015/april/corsair-hydro-series-cpu-cooler-decoder-ring-and-case-compatibility-chart You most likely need to mod the case to make the 240mm rad fit the top of the case. Like what's been suggested on that link.

This. The gurgling sound is not uncommon when you fire up the cooler the first time around. It is most likely air trapped in the loop nothing more. You'll just need to run the cooler and let the trapped air work itself way out. Now if the noise doesn't go away after a week or two, then that is a different story. You definitely want to check your pump's rpm and see if its running within spec.

Try the latest version of Corsair Link that we have just released (last Friday) and see if that fixes the detection issue. http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=140973 if that doesn't help, try moving the C Link USB connector to a different USB header on your MB.

Stick with the stock TIM, they are one of the best in the industry. H110i GT is using Dow Corning TC-5026

You're correct, the H100i GTX rad is slightly thicker than the H100i rad by 3mm. But considering that the 760T case has a good amount of clearance between the upper part of the MB tray and the top panel, that 3mm variance is virtually insignificant.

You will be fine, there is enough room for push/pull, Here is a set up

The MSRP for that case is $69 (+ tax) and to compare that with what they're offering, I think that's a pretty good deal.

Thank you for taking the time to share your wonderful experience with your H80. It may be a first gen cooler, but I can tell you right now that many of us here in Corsair are still using first gen H80 and H100 coolers.. never had to replace them because they are still working and does what it suppose to do. Matter of fact, I still have an H50 (Corsair's first AIO cooler) in my son's system and it's pumping liquid. I probably removed it twice since only to reapply TIM, but other than that.. It's been there since day one and never had an issue. Good man! I can assure you that you won't be disappointed