Deekerr16

Some links: https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Mixer-amplifier-Bluetooth-Channels/dp/B07QQQVLK3/ref=pd_lpo_267_t_2/131-2132177-6314162?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07QQQVLK3&pd_rd_r=806debcf-ac88-45fe-91e3-6e47fac6ad14&pd_rd_w=2nwfJ&pd_rd_wg=n6BHc&pf_rd_p=256a14b6-93bc-4bcd-9f68-aea60d2878b9&pf_rd_r=S73KPERE1REQ4JH4T4WE&psc=1&refRID=S73KPERE1REQ4JH4T4WE https://www.amazon.ca/Muslady-Console-Phantom-Monitor-Channels/dp/B07KXS7STC/ref=pd_sbs_267_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07KXS7STC&pd_rd_r=641397b2-8ab3-440a-93a8-96fa8439581b&pd_rd_w=kOwOM&pd_rd_wg=wy6RD&pf_rd_p=0ec96c83-1800-4e36-8486-44f5573a2612&pf_rd_r=S73KPERE1REQ4JH4T4WE&psc=1&refRID=S73KPERE1REQ4JH4T4WE https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-2-Channel-Condenser-Microphone-Indicator/dp/B01MZ8QAGS/ref=pd_sbs_267_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MZ8QAGS&pd_rd_r=641397b2-8ab3-440a-93a8-96fa8439581b&pd_rd_w=kOwOM&pd_rd_wg=wy6RD&pf_rd_p=0ec96c83-1800-4e36-8486-44f5573a2612&pf_rd_r=S73KPERE1REQ4JH4T4WE&psc=1&refRID=S73KPERE1REQ4JH4T4WE https://www.amazon.ca/Muslady-Compact-4-Channel-Recording-Broadcast/dp/B07TSM84T1/ref=pd_sbs_267_10?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07TSM84T1&pd_rd_r=641397b2-8ab3-440a-93a8-96fa8439581b&pd_rd_w=kOwOM&pd_rd_wg=wy6RD&pf_rd_p=0ec96c83-1800-4e36-8486-44f5573a2612&pf_rd_r=S73KPERE1REQ4JH4T4WE&psc=1&refRID=S73KPERE1REQ4JH4T4WE

They're typically pretty short, like the width of your pinky fingernail. If you start feeling excess resistance before it's screwed in all the way then stop and you know it's too long.

Screws usually come with the power supply, not the case (unless there's a bracket or something). Honestly you could just put any ol' screw in if it looks right, but the most important thing would be not to force it. If you can find one that works well through trial and error it'll just save you customer support grief.

I'd bet the cable/adapter is busted. Try plugging it in to a different monitor, and if you have any other cables or adapters lying around the house try swapping them out just to find where the problem is.

Hello all, I have a Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 R5 (rev. 1.0) with the F2 BIOS and I would like to have NVME support. Firstly, if there are any already-made modded BIOS' out there could you share them with me please? If not, I was hoping for some guidance on how to get into this myself. The only comprehensive guides I've seen so far are for Intel chipsets. https://www.win-raid.com/t871f50-Guide-How-to-get-full-NVMe-support-for-all-Systems-with-an-AMI-UEFI-BIOS.html At the moment, I'm looking at this one ^ but it's a tad daunting and pretty huge. I'm not looking for someone to give me the sparknotes version (though if you did that'd be cool too), but I'd love any helpful advice/tricks/tips from anyone who's done this sort of thing before. I'm looking to use a Seagate Firecuda 510 M.2 SSD as a boot drive through a Vantec PCIe x4 adapter. The rest of my hardware is: AMD FX9590 CPU Kingston Savage DDR3-1866 (16GB) RAM Zotac Nvidia GTX 1060 GPU EVGA 850 G2 PSU

Actually (unfortunately) I can only find modded BIOS' for the GA-990FXA-UD3 (rev. 4.0), would they work on a GA-990FXA-UD3 R5 (rev. 1.0)? That might be a stupid question but it's just a newer version of the same board (upgraded sound chip) so I might as well ask.

That's disheartening, it's getting to be an old rig so I wouldn't mind messing around with a modded BIOS or something. I'll keep updates here, but NOW (after I've bought it) I'm seeing other people having issues. To clarify on what I've found, older BIOS' don't support NVMe boot- not just because it doesn't have M.2 built-in. https://www.overclock.net/forum/11-amd-motherboards/1606083-ga-990fxa-ud3-rev-4-samsung-sm951-128gb-nvme-m-2-mzhpv128hdgm-issue.html https://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=16870.75 Might give that a try^

Hello all, I am a PC casual, upgrading my storage and using a fresh install of windows. I was hoping to use a Seagate Firecuda 510 as a boot drive. My motherboard does not have an M.2 slot so I have it connected through a Vantec PCIe x4 adapter. (Looked into it beforehand and it's been done and should work fine) I successfully installed Windows 10 x64 from a USB but when the installation was finished I got "Reboot and Select proper Boot device or Insert Boot Media in selected Boot device and press a key", similarly I get the same message whenever I try to boot from it now. The drive shows up in the BIOS and I have selected it to be first priority. I have also messed around with formatting it MBR/GPT and UEFI/Legacy to no avail. I have also tried reinstalling windows on the drive. When I plug in my previous HDD and boot up that way I am able to transfer/access files on the M.2 SSD. I would appreciate some help sorting this all out, thanks in advance! My BIOS is the newest version (F2) and my hardware is as follows: Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 R5 Motherboard AMD FX9590 CPU Kingston Savage DDR3-1866 (16GB) RAM Zotac Nvidia GTX 1060 GPU EVGA 850 G2 PSU

I plan on building my own Bluetooth speaker. I have the parts and layout picked out except a few small details. I would like a battery indicator and an eq of sorts. I'm using a set of 10 rechargeable batteries in it and I'd like a display that'll show battery % or just a meter between full and empty. I'd also like to have a controllable eq for the speaker (graphic or otherwise). Both of which I will mount so they can be viewed/controlled from the outside. I just have no idea what products would do this well and cheaply. Give me some suggestions on small eqs and battery charge indicators.

I wouldn't say I'm picking favorites, I plan to upgrade to intel as my system evolves. I just feel that AMD has a very firm standing in cheap good CPUs, and Intel offers CPUs in a higher end than what AMD offers. i5s and i3s don't really compete for their price (still just my opinion), but AMD doesn't even make any CPUs (I'm not considering APUs) that can go toe-to-toe with higher end CPUs like the Sandy Bridge architechture, i7s are kinda the meeting ground.

It It's not like that at all, it's far more than just clock speed that's higher/ better

Sandy bridge is more expensive but it is in fact better, the i5 4690k is haswell however which is still in the runnings with bulldozer. Anything with the sandy bridge architecture is out of op's budget.

The "bang for your buck" part comes from the fact that it has twice the cores, higher clock speed, higher bus speed, larger cache, and more for that price.

I wasn't making a point of CPU speed, I was making a point of the AMD chip being unlocked and very overclockable, and the MHz difference is for different times and production standards, older manufacuring lines had more lenient measuring processes, whereas modern construction has tighter and more highly regulated standards so MHz differences would be minuscule (not even a whole MHz). Even between manufacturers MHz would be almost identical because of more coordination and organization enlisted to create stricter standards. These chips came out within years of each other so that video is completely invalid, the only difference that video shows is how efficiency has drastically improved over the years between architectures and manufacturing processes, I still believe all MHz are near equal and always have been but core and bus efficiency has made a giant difference on a chip's speed. My rig is only a single 140mm closed loop cooler, the custom water loop is a plan that I intend fulfill before the end of the summer (I have some parts ordered and am milling through the rest) my average load is the average person's load and I wouldn't expect op to be using anything more than that (to have a game, skype, recording software, a stream, a download, and internet on use at once would be a worst case scenario however the 9590 would handle that with more ease and with less compromising than the 4690k)

It might be something with the house wiring but I don't think so because I can see that they are communicating with each other. I think it's the connection to the modem or the modem itself (I have a Hitron CGN3 and I'm with Rogers)