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Speakerator

Member
  • Content Count

    528
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About Speakerator

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday 1992-05-18

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Germany
  • Occupation
    Software Engineer

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 7 3700X
  • Motherboard
    MSI B450 Mortar Titanium
  • RAM
    16GB DDR4 Corsair LPX
  • GPU
    EVGA RTX 2070
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define Mini C
  • Storage
    128GB Adata SSD + 1TB SanDisk SSD + WD Green 2TB
  • PSU
    EVGA Supernova 650W GS
  • Display(s)
    Asus 27'' QHD, Acer 27" 144Hz QHD, LG 23'' FHD
  • Cooling
    BeQuiet Dark Rock 3
  • Keyboard
    Cooler Master Master Keys Pro S
  • Mouse
    Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury
  • Sound
    Sennheiser HD 650 + Onkyo TX-SR508 + Schiit Fulla 2
  • Operating System
    Win 10 64 Bit

Recent Profile Visitors

1,113 profile views
  1. Childhood - revisited: Already had the free mod from years ago but decided to buy it again to get the latest version and support the devs. Worth. Every. Penny.
  2. AFAIK, it's usually stored in a chip not wiped when reinstalling a pc. Lenovo once was under fire for having bloatware stored in a chip in the motherboard and reinstalling it right after a fresh wipe on some laptops a few years back. a malicious root kit would work the same but "reinstall" a virus. For some there is special software to delete the malicious code on that chip , but most of the time it's easiest to simply replace the affected hardware. Though - depending on how big the tinfoil hat you wanna wear is - conspiracies have it that China can install / installed 'spy chips' on (server) hardware prior to delivery - so how can anyone be sure? On a more serious note - chances of catching something like this are extremely slim. if you scabbed your pc and the results says it's fine you should be OK. you can wipe your pc to be extra sure, but everything else is just over the top.
  3. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rootkit That depends on the specific kind. It's quite a nasty bit of software - the name already implies that they can get broad system access.
  4. A rootkit which is not persisted on the drive you wipe would survive.
  5. As with all mechanics jobs - take your timeand everything will be fine. Also, keep in mind that the wheel and tire do carry quite a bit of momentum if moved. Learned this the hard way when I couldn't keep my fingers out of harms way and sheared a pretty chunk of flesh off the side of my thumb. Bled like a b1tch ...
  6. Hi folks, I recently got myself an Asus MG278Q (TN, 144Hz, QHD to accompany my Asus PG278QR (IPS, 60HZ, QHD) and have one more 'gaming' oriented screen. Currently still debating whether I'm keeping it. It's a blast for gaming, 144 Hz + Adaptive Sync sure does a lot for the experience. However, I do have one major grief that I'm not sure whether it's due to the monitors tech (TN vs the IPS I've used for years, some kind of backlight strobing), I'm missing some stupid setting or something else. When displaying an image with lots of dark, flat-colored surfaces and a contrasting text (I noticed it and since then can't unsee it the Spotify track list), the darker / grey parts flicker when scrolling the text. Illustrated again using the spotify example (see image below), when scrolling - the grey parts of the screen (play bar section at the bottom, dark grey columns left and right of the "text part" of the list etc - seem to flicker / rapidly change its 'hue' / brightness while the text is in motion. I've disabled all of the overdrive options (which, if I recall correctly should cause colored fringing on the moving text if overdone and not what I've depicted above) and tested at various refresh rates - to no avail. Can someone more versed in display technology than myself explain this? Best, Chris
  7. Hi folks, My girlfriend decided she wants a "proper" screen for writing her PhD instead of using her laptop all the time. Since she doesn't want anything big or fancy and me being the generous sport my mother taught me to be, I got the great idea of simply passing her my current auxiliary monitor (23" LG IPS, good for office work but nothing special). However, this selfless act of kindness leaves me in the dreadful situation that I am currently looking for a second screen (we'll eventually move in together in a few month so there's really no need in getting another screen since she'll then use my setup as well) Use case is / requirements are the following: - setup of 2x272 QHD, the second screen being my current Asus PB278 (60Hz, IPS) - 144 Hz + GSync / GSync Compatible - at least two inputs, since I want to keep a set of spare cables behind my desk (occasional home office use with company laptop) - 100x 100mm VESA mount I currently have my eyes peeled on either the ASUS MG278Q (412€ new or ~280€ as a decent warehouse deal) or the Acer Predator XB1 XB271HU (479€ new, 381€ as a decent warehouse deal). Basic comparison on B&H: Link The Asus is a fair bit cheaper (only GSync Compatible) while the Acer is proper GSync and can be overclocked to 165Hz (but is a buy-in into team Green). Is it worth the premium? Do you have any other recommendations? Best, Chris
  8. Welcome to the forum. 1.) I'm pretty sure, the display port specification says something like 4m tops for cables. Given the bandwidth required for 160Hz @ 1440p , i fear you may be out of luck here. Possibly there are active DP cables (similar to the optical thunderbolt 3 cables Linus used for his personal rig) but those usually don't come in cheap. Your best bet probably is to simply move your rig closer to the screens 2.) I couldn't find your systems specs (most people list them in their profile or in their signature) - if you do run a cpu with an iGPU, you could run your 'HUD' of that and all the others of the dGPU / 980Ti.
  9. Not sure whether you are actually planning on buying the thing, but if yo, maybeI can interest you in a DIY solution. I had a look similar boards a while ago when I started to game on the couch but would like to keep the keyboard and mouse combo for a round of Doom etc. and hence decided to make one myself. - 90cm * 40 cm mouse mat on Amazon ~10§ - 90cm * 40cm wooden shelf board from the nearest hardware store ~3$ - 100cm * 50cm*3cm closed-cell foam from the nearest hardware store (even better if you can find it cut to size) ~6$ - some double sided tape, spray glue or whatever you have lying around use whatever wireless peripherals you want, possibly throw in a foamy wrist rest for the keyboard. Depending on the type of wood you use, it definitely is heavier than the plastic-y lapboard, but I don't find it fatiguing at all. If anything, it gives a lot of stability to the whole setup. And (depending on what size of mouse mat / board you choose) you get massive real estate. Don't get me wrong, the Corsair Lapboard is a great product (structured memory foam and all), but it's really pricy for what it is and forces you to use the K63. If you have the spare coin, you possibly won't regret it, just wanted to point out that there are other options available
  10. I'm sneaking around the 2500H for half a year now, for possibly replacing my Onkyo TX-SR508. Not really sure how big of an improvement it will actually be, sound wise. Otherwise, I'm "only" gaining 4K passthrough support and better "smart features", currently all handled by Chromecasts. Sadly, most mid-range AVRs cheap out on (digital) inputs. Haven't yet had one in my living room for testing purposes - possibly a good thing since it keeps me from spending What made you choose this one? Purchase as a first receiver or as a replacement for ageing / defective predecessors?
  11. Thanks for the input - the linked board is ATX unfortunately. I was refering to this handy chart of boards and VRM capacity as well as Buildzoids video on the Mortar which both attest that the board can handle an 8-code just fine. I don't really mind the lack of a dedicated cooler on the VRM for the iGPU / APU at the top, since I don't realllly plan on using the iGPU very much
  12. Hi folks, It's finally time to replace the core components of my trusty Sandybridge build, which lasted a solid nine years. I've decided to try and go with mATX this time, since I rarely had more than two PCIe cards in anyway and want to reduce clutter on the desk a bit. Following constraints on the whole thing: - use case is 70% gaming and 30% random stuff (Photo editing, programming, playing around with blender or other random projects - but since I cuurrently don't plan on making money on that, seconds of processing time ain't worth much cash) - I currenly play at 1400p/60Hz but am thinking about getting an Asus MG278Q or similar (144Hz GSync-compatible QHD) - GPU, PSU and cooling (+ AM4 mount for a few bucks) of the current system will stay, hence listed below with a price of 0,00€ - since I won't use high-end storage solutions, I guess it's not worth to go the X570 route. However, since I don't have a spare CPU and not many shops in Germany offer BIOS upgrade services (Mindfactory charges 34,90 € for that), Bios Flashback functionality is a must for B450 / Z470 boards - the storage drives listed below are still up for debate, I kinda want to ditch my 2TB HDD for a cheap gaming SSD, since documents are on a NAS anyway and it's just old and low. Following questions are still open: - having seen Gamers Nexus review of the 3600 / 3600X / 3700X I'm still debating whether it's worth getting the 3700X and gambling on the future adoption of cores in game engines. Yay or nay? - since I'm not sworn to any legion - if someone can come up with a comparable Intel build, I'm definitely open to suggestions - any other remarks regarding the list below. I currently came up with the following: PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD - Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor €209.00 @ Alternate CPU Cooler be quiet! - Dark Rock 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler €0.00 Motherboard MSI - B450M MORTAR Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard €101.84 @ Mindfactory Memory Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory €82.90 @ Amazon Deutschland Storage Samsung - 970 Evo Plus 250 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive €74.98 @ Amazon Deutschland Storage SanDisk - SSD PLUS 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive €99.99 @ Amazon Deutschland Video Card EVGA - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB XC GAMING Video Card €0.00 Case Fractal Design - Define Mini C TG MicroATX Mid Tower Case €70.89 @ Alternate Power Supply EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply €0.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total €639.60 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-15 00:17 CEST+0200 Hit me with your best improvements! Thanks and best regards, Chris
  13. Unfortunately, I don't since I haven't looked into any replacements yet. But I suppose you're better off going with a fixed mount like the one you linked instead of something with springs. You lose the ability to height adjust, but you also avoiding unintended height adjustments caused by gravity
  14. From my personal experience, I'd go with three single mounts. Its just more flexible,. And I suppose you could simply put multiple single mounting arms on the same "tube" you screw onto your desk, so you have the best of both. Depends on what quality you go for. Word of advice: don't cheap out on the mount for the 27". Mine is a tiiiny bit too weak to comfortly hold it in position, so every time I adjust the screen (I have a 27" and 23" mounted above each other) - it's a balancing game to keep it from sagging down again -.-
  15. Thanks for the input, I haven't yeat heard of either board. I wouldn't mind to go ITX / DTX. I guess the Crosshair Impact will be a tad too overkill, but the Strix X570-I especially and possibly also the Phantom Gaming might strike a nice balance (at least as visible from the pictures ). The former is said to be released mid-august - I suppose I can wait that long There's unfortunately no microcenter over here in Europe and none of the big-box electronic stores offer similar services as far as I know. Bios flashback via USB might be an option. That's goods and bad news. Good to know that especially MSI offers flashback and bad that you recommend to avoid the brand. As of now I havent owned anything by them. TBO, since I haven't actually build a personal rig (only some office / light gaming rigs for friends) I'm not really on top of motherboard prices any more (especially how much of a premium specific features should cost), but from my point of view, at least the mid-tier boards (which are the most relevant to myself) appear to be reasonable priced. Sure, the 600€ Godlikes and Epics are enthusiast grade and priced as such and due to the novelty of some features, theres currently no real low-end range. On the other hand, if you really needed to build a cheap(er) AMD system right now, 2600 and 300 and 400 series boards are still available and dropping, so technically AMD has that covered as well.
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