CAC1291

So, normally that's what I'd figure - that there was one specific setting tanking everything. However, for the one game with ray tracing, both NVIDIA and Digital Foundry show my card running the game at more than 60fps with ray tracing turned on. I also saw other people in forums and on youtube getting those numbers, so I knew that meant that there was something else afoot. 
 
 
Thank you for recommending this! I don't know why I didn't think of it earlier. I DDU'd the drivers after work and it seems to have done the trick - ran the Wolftenstein benchmark a few times and had it at more than 70fps at max settings + ray tracing with DLSS balanced 4K. Just played an hour of RE7 at 4k without any issue either. Gonna give it another day or two of playing to make sure the problems don't come back again like they did last week. 
 
Thanks, good luck to you too! I bought my 2070 Super after a bit over a week of auto refreshing store pages. It just wasn't worth all the extra effort - this is more than twice as powerful as my 970, and should let me play Cyberpunk at 1440p with high settings, DLSS, and some ray tracing features. That's if I don't get the 3080 by then. Might try for the 3070 too, if I can snag one beforehand. 

It will most likely be fine. The intake fans seem to be on the gpu side so whilst the gpu is going to sit against the fan it will still have some airflow. You could always install some top fans too.
 
You may want too look into getting a non founders edition model with a more traditional cooler the asus tuf sells for the same price and has better cooling abilities.

IMHO: Speakers are an important and costly investment. It would be ideal for you to LISTEN to a piece of music you're familiar with through speakers that fit your budget, whether that's at Best Buy, Sam Ash, Guitar Center, etc.. I'm not advocating buying from those places, you can usually always find things cheaper online, but listening is crucial.
 
Buying speakers you've never heard before is such a gamble, even if others say they are 'good' (when it comes to sound 'good' is subjective)

Active speakers don't like to play well with headphones. My suggestion is to look into the Audioengine offerings for speakers and amplifiers, and use your on board sound. The Audioengine speakers are going to run circles around the ProMedia satellites. Of course, they will not provide the low rumble of a subwoofer.
 
Option 1
Active speakers only: $400 http://audioengineusa.com/Store/Powered-Speaker-Systems/A5-plus-B-Powered-Speakers
Total: $400 but you would need to use your case's front panel to work your headphones
 
Option 2
Passive speakers: $250 http://audioengineusa.com/Store/Passive-Speaker-Systems/P4B-Passive-Bookshelf-Speakers
Amp with headphone jack: $200 http://audioengineusa.com/Store/Amplifier/N22-Desktop-Audio-Amplifier
Total: $450 for a high quality amp that powers the speakers and headphones
 
With option 2, you might still be able to use the subwoofer that came with your ProMedia if it's still working

my point is that power supplies have terrible efficiency below 5% load. if I have a system that only draws 25 watts on a 350 watt PSU, it will probably draw somewhere around 40-50 watts if it were on a 1000 watt PSU, as power supplies draw power simply being on with no load, and a larger power supply will have a greater quiescent current.
I'm kinda tempted to test the no load power draw of my 1000 watt PSU now. it's probably at least 20 watts

360 watt would power an intel quad core machine, but would be cutting it close if you were to add a high end GPU
I honestly don't understand why there isn't more of a market for low power high efficiency power supplies, as a big power supply draws lots of power just being on.

I can only speak from my own experience - I was going to get a Node 804 or Corsair 350 originally before opting for the Arc Mini R2.
Fractal stock fans seem decent as first glance, they run quietly at full rpm and air seems to be flowing. However they actually have a pretty poor cubic feet per minute rating of 40 at full speed compared to Noctua's standard NFF12's 55 cfm or the NFS12a's 62 cfm.
Definitely change your stock front/rear fans to NFS12a models, and the two on your radiator to the NFF12s that you've ordered. You will likely need to tweak your fan settings to make the front fan spin faster normally so that it draws more cool air in. For reference my intakes are clear so I leave them running at 222rpm - and they increase speed to 6xx under load. This allows them to function while still remaining quiet.
Also try to clear up some of your cabling, it's not easy but it will help a little with your airflow.
Possibly mount the radiator directly to the chassis and the fans under it, this would allow the coolant tubing to rise up a little giving a wider channel for air to flow front to back. It likely won't make a huge difference but you're going to be aiming for lots of small improvements to equate to a significant one at first.
As you've mentioned your gpu exhausting hot air into your case is also an issue, but unless you replace it there's little you can do about it.

Personally I'd put the H100 rad in the other chamber, install two good fans in the front primary chamber, and two decent fans the back (One direct back, the other top back, and run one at 7v). Also make sure to have an exhaust fan the the HDD/H100 chamber.
 
You would actually have a proper amount of intake this way, while also having good exhaust.

A giant 1080p panel for productivity and text work is a bad idea IMO, it is great for watching stuff but not much else, as FSX says TV's typically have a lot more display latency than monitors due to the additional image processing they do.
 
I'd get a second monitor for your desk, that will help out with the productivity and you can still use it with the PS4.

If you live in Canada or the US, check NCIX.com for good deals. They have Linksys recertified routers for super cheap. I picked up a Linksys E-4200 v1 for $30 (I got 3 year warranty + shipping/taxes for like $50 total).
 
Their current recertified router is the EA-4500 and is very high end:
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=87571&vpn=EA4500-RM&manufacture=Linksys&promoid=1195

It kind of does, but probably not in the way you think it does.
 
With a simultaneous dual band router like the E2500 (please note that not all dual band routers are simultaneous dual band) you can use both the 2.4GHz as well as the 5GHz band at the same time. What this means is that when you start the E2500, you will see two wireless networks, one called "Linksys" or something like that, and one called "Linksys_5GHz" or something like that. The 5GHz band uses the 5GHz radioband to send signals. The drawback is that 5GHz is a bit worse at penetrating solid objects such as walls, but the benefit is that things like microwaves, which uses 2.4GHz, does not cause any interference. The channel width is also bigger on the 5GHz band which can increase the speed, so you usually get higher bandwidth on the 5GHz band than on the 2.4GHz band.
 
Since it has simultaneous dual band, it means that both the 2.4GHz and the 5Ghz band can be used at the same time (which is why you see two networks). With a dual band router which does not have simultaneous dual band, you have to pick if you want 2.4GHz or 5GHz, but not both at the same time.
Wireless is a shared medium, and only half duplex. That means that if you are sending something on your phone wirelessly, then no other device on that network can send at the same time. If they did, then both signals would get jammed and the router wouldn't be able to understand any of them. With simultaneous dual band, one device on the 2.4GHz network and one device on the 5GHz network can send at the same time, since one signal is 2.4GHz, and one signal is 5GHz, so the router can see the difference between them even if they arrive at the same time. That's why you can have more devices on the network without slowing it down with a simultaneous dual band router. So what you could do is make it so that your computer which you want the highest bandwidth on is set to use the 5GHz band, and the rest of your wireless devices are on the 2.4GHz band and have to share the bandwidth.
 
 
Since you're going to live close to a lot of other people with wireless networks, I highly recommend you get a router with simultaneous dual band. The 2.4GHz band will most likely have a lot of interference from the other students networks, microwaves, cordless cellphones and stuff like that, so the 5GHz band will be far more reliable.
If you are going to share a network with another person, then you could make it so that he gets to use the 2.4GHz band, and you get to use the 5GHz band on the router. That way you won't eat up each others bandwidth. If he connects a lot of devices, then his network will be slower, but yours will still be the same speed (at least locally).

You could. What you could do is 240 > cpu > 120 > GPU> pump > res. :)

Rule of thumb for rads is 120mm for each component plus an extra 120mm. So or recommend getting a 360mm or an extra 120 with the 240mm

In my neck of the woods, the BR drives tend to come bundled with a BR playback software/player.......I've 3 LG BR drives, two are BR ROM while the third is a BR RW......all came with software BR player with support of up to 5.1 sound. My BR RW came with its own software burning programs as well.