Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


This user doesn't have any awards


About Light-Yagami

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    My chair probably
  • Occupation
    Giving advice based on False evidence


  • CPU
    Intel core i7 6700K @ 4.7ghz
  • Motherboard
    ASUS Z-170A
  • RAM
    16GB DDR4 3000mhz
  • GPU
    Nvidia Geforce GTX 1070 Strix
  • Case
    Define R5
  • Storage
    2x1TB HDD + 512GB SSD
  • PSU
    550W Cooler Master
  • Display(s)
    IPS 1440p 60hz monitor
  • Cooling
    9 total cooling fans
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610
  • Mouse
    Razer Deathadder
  • Sound
    Logitech G633
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

1,539 profile views
  1. You won't loose too much performance with 2080 super, but you will save a lot of money. You can upgrade in the future. But in the future, newer GPUs will come out and they will be faster than a 2080ti for less money. I hope that makes sense.
  2. Here's how it goes from slowest to fastest: 2060, 2060super, 2070, 2070super, 2080, 2080 super, 2080ti. Best value is probably 2070 super, and best performance for money is 2080 super. 2080ti is the fastest, but unproportionally more expensive. If you have money, then sure, go for it. It has better RT performance because it has more RT cores.. but other than that, I don't see the reason. It will run 4k like butter though. That's a given
  3. I use a Logitech keyboard with MX Brown switches. I've been very satisfied with them. I don't like red-like switches, and blues are just obnoxious. If you're buying an MX keyboard, buy browns. Anything else, those blacks, whites and whatnot Razer offers are just spinoffs of regular mx switches and go to extremes in their respective areas. I really hate that MX switches are somehow "the best" and "industry standard", because they're really not and you pay premium for brand. I got my keyboard on sale, otherwise I wouldn't have bought it. I heard Roamer G switches are pretty good.. There's a video on LTT channel, comparing a few types. Here's the link:
  4. As long as it's not heavily scratched (and I mean "deeper groves at a level 7" scratched), you've nothing to worry about. Battery will give out years before the fingerprint scanner will. The guy who bought a Samsung galaxy S8 off me last year says it's working as new (the fingerprint scanner), and it's been the main way to unlock the phone from day one. If you need reassurance
  5. I'm sorry, I must've miss-understood then. Speaking from experience, low and mid-range RAM won't really cooperate at all. What I'm saying is - it's not worth the hassle for those 2% of improvement you might get, if lucky. And you have to know what you're doing, can't just change a bunch of values and apply. RAM OC-ing isn't easy.. idk.. but sure, trying is always welcome, even if only for educational purposes.
  6. The ribbon is only separated in 6+2 so it's compatible with more devices. There is no performance difference.
  7. He's talking for his current set of 2666 sticks, which are like.. 3 years old ddr4 modules. I doubt he'll be getting anything worthwhile out of them.
  8. You could try and reduce latency a bit (CL-xx) value, but most lower end sticks aren't even capable of running at their rated speeds most of the time.. It's worth a try. You don't be able to negate the drop though. Maybe reduce it by a slight margin. I wouldn't bother
  9. OH I'm sorry miss-read that. Yes, of course it will work! You're loosing between 5-10% of performance depending on the workload, but yes. It will work. I recommend getting 3200 or 3600mhz later on
  10. Wait until you can afford at least 3200mhz. It's not that big of a jump, money wise. Don't buy something you'll have a hard time selling later on because noone will want to take it off your hands. It's a lose lose situation. My OCD aside, it will work "okay", if you will. But I would never buy it.
  11. He has to confirm it before they get the money. With his own eyes and ears. It sounds too good to be true.
  12. @Cb2394 Assuming the 1080ti is a legit deal, go for it. It's very cheap though. Idk who'd let it go for so little.
  13. The no motionblur means you need a very fast panel, probably high end TN 1ms or really high end IPS 1ms panel. Stuttering comes from inadequate system performance and isn't monitor related. You'll get it if your CPU won't be able to keep up (or the GPU) but in your case that won't be a problem. screen tearing means you're spitting our more frames per second that the monitor can display. To combat this, get a high hz screen or lock fps in game. Don't use V-sync, cause it introduces a couple of frames worth of input lag - at which point - why bother with a high end screen at all? But you probably won't notice it if your monitor already displays 240fps or something. So don't worry about it No input lag is a broad spectrum. A combination of monitor response time, and system response time. But in general, higher fps means lower input lag. So just worry about that then. In conclusion: Get a 144hz (at least) monitor with 1ms response time and g-sync. Or a 240hz screen. But make sure you're buying a good one. Some have terrible response time IRL, higher than their refresh rate. In general, that means smearing and ghosting. You try to avoid that for better experience.
  14. @Radium_Angel I've deleted a bunch of loose ends, closed some background services, wiped a bunch of stuff of the SSD.. It starts up 5 seconds faster now (18s compared to around 23s before - ) and it seems to have more life to it. Getting rid of unnecessary files and programs really seemed to help quite a bit. Especially disabling the adobe stuff on startup. In any case. Thanks for the help! Have a nice day
  15. I'll give the geekuninstaller a try, I have some stuff running in the background that "can't be deleted" cause it "doesn't exist" anymore. Just Windows things. I'll let you know if there's any difference