Lou_Hernandez

yep! liquid cooling is the way to go, buddy, you'll see the results trust me! The AIO's come with pre-applied thermal paste so you don't have to worry about applying it yourself with your own paste. Just screw that bad boy into your CPU and connect some cables and boom your golden. 

Just to clear some things up about this though. Leaks from high quality AIOs are very rare, and you never need to change their fluid, and in fact trying to do so pretty much destroys an AIO

True, I have heard good things about Corsair and NZXT liquid coolers, but I don't wanna have to deal with changing out coolant and worrying about algae in the loop.
 
And the Noctua is looking like the best option so far. Thanks for the help!
 
edit: Speaking of which, what do you think of the Corsair H110i and the NZXT Kraken? I heard good things about both of them, but more opinions are always welcome

Well, you can go with traditional AIO liquid cooling from reputable brands like Corsair and or NZXT. I have both! Completely hassle free. (in terms of dealing with leaks because you don't mess with them at all like a plug n play situation). However, I don't have an air cooler but I have read good things about the Noctua NH-D15 6 heatpipe with Dual NF-A15 140mm fans and the be quiet! BK019 DARK ROCK PRO 3 Silent wings CPU Cooler 250W TDP. So maybe you might like to research those but I wouldn't pick anything over liquid cooling my rig just my 2 cents.

not really. the PWM wire has NOTHING to do with your mainboard being able to read out the RPM of a fan - that RPM wire is also present on 3 pin connectors.
 
it goes like this:
 
pin 1: ground (usually black)
pin 2: +12V (sometimes red)
pin 3: RPM signal (sometimes yellow)
pin 4: PWM (sometimes blue) 
 
the mainboard or fan controller can only read out the RPM signal of one fan per connector, that's why pin 3 is always missing on one connector of a Y adapter, 4 pin or not.
 
the other thing to note is that a 3 pin connector from a fan will also fit on a 4 pin socket on the board, and a 4 pin fan on a 3 pin socket also works if the extra space to the side is not blocked by a capacitor or something.

yup.
 
i just learned this yesterday. i bought this https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00KG8K5CY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and noticed that one of the 4pin ends isnt even wired for 4 pins. it only has 3. the green cable that for the PWM signal is only for communicating the fan RPM to your mobo/os/monitoring app
 
a 3pin splitter will be fine for you

Just use 3 pin to 3 pin. A 3 pin to 4 pin splitter isn't going to carry the PWM signal so there's no difference. 

Nonono,you see,there are two ways you could try fixing this issue.First is to do a CMOS Reset,either by reseating the cmos jumpers on your MOBO,or by removing the CMOS battery for a few mins then placing it again.If that doesnt work,then there is something else(altho you will have to do this at your own risk,it CAN brick your mobo.),flashing back your BIOS toi its earlier version.Doing that can be dangerous because many mobos dont like you doing that and will become bricked.I suggest contacting Asus about this issue if the first option doesnt do anything.

NVIDIA & AMD Video Card Overclocking Guide:
 
Google Doc Link Here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/14nUP9WowIM1E9_EW1XJ62eF5ueNONH7Qk9iJl3ZE0fo/edit
 
Prepared by BigDay
 
Last Updated: February 7, 2016
 
Since LTT has changed the forum style and removed spoilers, I have decided to post a link to the guide on Google Docs instead. It's easier to read and print than having it posted on the forum
 
Check out my other guides:
Noctua vs Corsair Fan Guide: Haswell & Haswell Refresh CPU Overclocking Guide:

NCIX: http://bit.ly/1QFVfbJ
Amazon: http://geni.us/3olF
 
Which mobile OS is better, iOS or Android?
 

Yup, just follow the instructions on the dye bottle.

Sure, just add dye to the reservoir as-is through the fill port. Alternatively you can also drain the coolant, dye it outside to the desired color and fill/bleed the loop.

NCIX: http://bit.ly/1rQfGjP
Amazon: http://geni.us/2PSl
 
The PowerUp 3.0 paper airplane control module shows us that even a tiny "computer" with only one purpose can provide hours of fun...
 

Update #01

Already ordered some stuff, more updates to come!
Please remember to follow this thread!

Before I start I'd like to mention that this will not be one of these uber-fancy watercooled systems.
Maybe it will be one day, but I doubt it.

This build log will be about me constantly upgrading my pc.
Around two years ago I bought a Pentium-4 PC for €30 and since then I have step by step upgraded all of the parts.
This is the way I will upgrade my PC in the future as well.
All pictures will be taken with my D5100 + Sigma DC 18-125 HSM.
I will try my best, but I am not a pro-photographer and the lighting situation in my room is pretty bad as well and i can't do anything about it either.
I am not a native english speaker so please tell me when I missspell words.

Parts:
CPU: FX-6300 G3258
CPU Cooler: Stock Cooler Antec h2o 920 RaijinTek Triton
Motherboard: 970 Extreme3 R2.0 Sabertooth Z97 Mk. I
Memory: 2x4GB G.Skill Sniper 1866Mhz CL9
Storage: Intel 530 Series 240GB SSD
Video Card: GTX 560 Ti SC
Case: Define R4
Power Supply: 750 G2
Displays: GL2460
Peripherals: R.A.T. 7 / Coolermaster Rapid-I

Updates:
Update #01 A long day of doing a lot of stuff! LEDs & more!
Update #02 Adding cable extensions and a SSD PCI bracket!
Update #03 Received my Sabertooth Z97
Update #04 Installed the Board
Update #05 RaijinTek Triton and some minor tweaks

To-Do-List (I will add your recommendations):
- paint my gpu white with plastidip
- get white cable extensions
- get cable clips for these extensions from icemodz and mdpc
- get a proper solution for drive mounting (probably a pcie bracket)
- get a cpu cooler, haven't decided yet (raijintek triton?)
- get new mainboard and CPU (probably gryphon z97 and g3258)
- need a LGA1150 CPU
- get a psu cover
- cut a window
- cut a window on the back
- plastidip my mainboard?

I will try to answer all of your questions and listen to your recommendations. Your feedback is appreciated!
It would be great if you could follow this thread to receive notifications on new updates!

Thank you all for checking out my build log!
   -Rheinwasser
 


This is how it looks at the moment.

What kind of cooling best fits a "white out" themed build? Sub-zero, of course! And how exactly do you get sub-zero cooling? Well, the way that WE did it was through a phase change system...
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4d0B0Dli-1g&feature=youtu.be
 
I'm going to list out the components as well as provide a source or two for where you can get them     I can't tell you where to buy this stuff, but I do lean towards NCIX for the Canadians (and International viewers if their pricing and shipping costs work out for you) because they're my bros, and for Americans, Brits, and a couple other regions, the Amazon links below are affiliate links, so of course every little bit helps    
CORE COMPONENTS
 
CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K Unlocked Four Core Processor with HyperThreading NCIX: http://bit.ly/1FMxUfK Amazon: http://geni.us/afZ   SSD: Intel 730 Series NCIX: http://bit.ly/1OoU5Nd Amazon: http://geni.us/30Cb   Motherboard: ASUS Sabertooth Z97 Mark S NCIX: http://bit.ly/1IE3LTN Amazon: http://geni.us/1jhU 
Case: LD Cooling PC-V10 NCIX: http://bit.ly/1yhGMu7 Amazon: http://geni.us/1h06
LD Cooling: http://bit.ly/1O44X0Y
 
Video Card: GALAX GTX 980 Hall of Fame
NCIX: http://bit.ly/1yhGTFV
Amazon: http://geni.us/3G59
GALAX: http://bit.ly/1GAWrHK
  RAM: 32GB HyperX Fury White
NCIX: http://bit.ly/1GAWy5Z Amazon: http://geni.us/3Jym 
Power Supply: Corsair AX860i NCIX: http://bit.ly/1aFq2lE Amazon: http://geni.us/S0M 
Mouse: Corsair Sabre RGB
NCIX: http://bit.ly/1CFWyu5 Amazon: http://geni.us/4EGi 
Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB NCIX: http://bit.ly/1aFq5Oh Amazon: http://geni.us/2hLX 
Monitor (gaming): Acer XB270HU Bprz 27in WQHD G-SYNC IPS 144HZ LED Monitor NCIX: http://bit.ly/1z7Ih94 Amazon: http://geni.us/1Hqk   Cooling Components   CPU Heatsink: 
NCIX: http://bit.ly/1DznxfM Amazon: http://geni.us/1h06
LD Cooling: http://bit.ly/1O44X0Y
  Extra Fans:  NCIX: http://bit.ly/1D8Lppg Amazon: http://geni.us/nvX

Apogee XL CPU Waterblock
NCIX: http://bit.ly/VROQPU
Amazon: http://geni.us/3kbk
 
Komodo NV LE Waterblock
NCIX: http://bit.ly/VRP0Xn
Amazon: http://geni.us/1Qv9
 
We got a bunch of Swiftech Apogee XL CPU waterblocks and Komodo NV LE GPU waterblocks for our upcoming "whole room watercooling" project, and they looked so darn good coming out of the box that we had to share the experience with all of you!
 

I have been using h100i GTX on my PC since it got released, it wasnt necessary to buy it since I got h80i already but I did just for look. Compared to h80i temperatures seems to be much more stable on h100i GTX than h80i but my temperatures are higher than on previous case because I bought much more silent case which as excepted raises temperatures so I cant really do temperature test between them. heres my build with h100i GTX:



EDIT: and forgot to say that the tubing fits on the h440 pretty good all tho it comes very close to the side panel
 

Where to start
Now that you have an understanding behind the theories of Water cooling. This is a good place to really start understanding what is in Custom water cooling loops. But more importantly how do you get one built. My guide here should only be half the story of building a loop. I won't go into detail about the finite processes of putting together a loop. Linus has already done a great job of really showing you how that process works; far better than I could in a forum post. I will hopefully be able to help when it comes to picking out the right components that go into a water cooling loop. Please check out his 4 part guide on Water cooling. This should be what you refer to when you are actually putting a loop together. These Guides are much better at showing how things fit together then I could even type out.
 
Ultimate Water Cooling Guide Part 1 - Preparation Procedure NCIX Tech Tips

 
 
Ultimate Water Cooling Guide Part 2 - Block & Component Installation NCIX Tech Tips

 
 
Ultimate Water Cooling Guide Part 3 - Tubing, Liquid & Conclusion NCIX Tech Tips

 
 
Guide Part 4 - Maintenance and Upgrades for your Liquid Cooled System NCIX Tech Tips

CPU Water Blocks
These are surprisingly one of the simplest parts of the water cooling loop. They are just a machined block of copper with water channels through it where the heat exchange happens. Picking a CPU water block comes down more to personal taste more than anything. If you are obsessed with getting the best possible performance out of a water block. Google CPU water block roundups and see what people are testing with them. In general, most CPU blocks do marginally better than others.
Most blocks come with all the mounting you need for all the different Intel and AMD socket types so no need to worry about that. Just double check to make sure your socket is supported.

Other Types of Water Blocks (Might be more to come)
You can find water blocks for just about everything these days and if you are will to spend the money you can have a water block made to fit anything. All of these blocks I'm going to list give no real performance boost. They will keep the components cooler than it would be if it wasn't water cooled but they tend never to get hot enough to affect performance in the first place. Before water cooling any of these components money should be spent on a second pump to increase head pressure. Most of the blocks are considered to have high restriction rates and the more blocks you add into a loop the higher the over all restriction is.
HDD- These come in a few different styles. Most however just screw to the top of a HDD or SSD. They can wrap around the sides in some cases. They come in a style much like a NAS where a few drives can be fit into a single block. The real down side of these blocks is there price. Often costing more than the drive they are cooling. A fan can do the same thing as these blocks and at a much cheaper price.
Mosfet/Volt Reg. - These blocks are some of the only others that might give you a performance increase. They can help keep you system more stable at high overclocks. However much like the HDD it is something that can be done with a fan as well.
Chipset/Mobo - These simply replace whatever heat sink is covering the chipset on your board. Like GPU blocks they come in a full cover style and a more universal style. The full cover style will often cover the Mosfets and Volt regs as well. They are often very, very expensive and can be hard to find for certain boards. They can help contribute to a more stable system at very extreme OC.
RAM - You can find two styles of ram coolers. One if built into the heat spreader. It uses a 1/4" tube. The second is a flat block that lays on top of a few sticks of ram. Not much to say about these. Just that RAM really doesn't get that hot.

A great example of cooling is by our own member Snef:

I love the Chroma, the switches were a bit tough to get adjusted to but now its normal to me. I would of gotten a Corsair RGB keyboard if the softwear and firmwear for them was more relible.

Meanwhile, "Corsair Software has stopped working...Wait while Windows searches for a solution"

dudeeeee........that's super sick! even with the two GPU's would've been great if you could have "dipped" on the bottom portion of the two GPU's...however i see how that might've been an issue with the company logo and all overall wonderful work!  B)  LOL i can't wait to dip on my first build.... excited! 

she is beautiful.  :wub:

This is going to be interesting