djpabz23

I got it solved! So after running Fan Expert, my chassis/case fans were not reporting a speed and they stayed at max speed after the auto tuner. My CPU cooler on the other hand was normal. I found it weird, so I looked at my fan hub and noticed that there was a single empty red colored fan header (I'm assuming this one tells the machine how fast a fan is spinning). I unplugged one of the case fans and plugged it into that specific fan header. When I was installing these fans with the fan hubs, the instructions were very unclear and hard to follow. I ran auto tuner one more time and it read my fan speed for my chassis fans and now, it's completely silent! I guess my fans kept ramping up as my PC was not aware how fast the fans were spinning,

Believe it or not, I am using the preset "quiet" mode that's included with the motherboard. I'll take a look into it, thanks!

I was using performance mode.

Hello everyone, I recently upgraded my build all around except for the power supply. Here is a list of my current setup: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X 3.8 GHz 8-Core Processor CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360 56.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 10 GB Founders Edition Video Card Case: Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic Razer ATX Full Tower Case Power Supply: EVGA G3 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Case Fan: Bitspower Touchaqua Notos O RGB 59 CFM 120 mm Fans 6-Pack I knew the 5800x would run hotter than other chips, which is why I upgraded to an air cooler with a 9 fan setup. Current fan setup: Bottom: Intake w/ 3 Bitspower Touchaqua Notos O RGB fans Side: Intake w/ 3 Bitspower Touchaqua Notos O RGB Top: Radiator as exhaust with stock Arctic fans. Every time I boot into Windows, my fans ramp up big time. When I open chrome or any other application, the fans ramp up big time. When playing games, the fans are constantly spinning at high speeds which lets off loud fan noise. I'm not sure if it's the fans that I used or if this is expected from a 5800x, but is there anything I can do to lower fan noise without taking a hit on performance? Should I switch out my case fans? Should I add a custom fan curve (if so, can someone guide me to creating a fan curve for my specific system?)? Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated! SOLVED: If you're using the Bitspower Touchaqua Notos O RGB as case fans WITH the included hub, MAKE SURE one of the fans is plugged into the red fan header on the hub,

Hi Jeff, even on a new Windows 10 install with ONLY NZXT and Steam installed, I still get the weird crash. Uninstalling NZXT has solved the issue. I was on version 4.20 I believe prior to uninstalling.

Well, thanks for your answers... I'll just give the company a call and see what happens from there.

I'll give that a shot. From what his dad told me, when he first got it, it did post. He then added an HDD from his old PC, and hasn't posted ever since. Maybe he fried something?

Been trying to remove this cooler, but I'm struggling. Don't wanna end up breaking anything,

Hi all, A family of mine bought his son a prebuilt PC, but since arrival, it does not post. I tried troubleshooting, but I cannot find what the issue is. All fans spin including case fans, CPU cooler, and GPU. I get no display signal when I turn on the PC and I've tried connecting an HDMI to both MOBO and GPU outputs. I have tried the following: -reseating RAM & Changing slots (it's only a 1x 4GB stick) -reseating all power cables (CPU + MOBO) -reseating GPU -Checking all connections -Clearing CMOS by removing battery -Changing monitor & cable CPU: No Idea Cooler: darkFlash Shadow? Mobo: Some B75M MOBO (LGA 1155 socket) - There's no branding and the included QRcode leads to a Google search with "results not found" page. RAM: 1x MICRON MT16JTF51264AZ-1G6M1 4GB PSU: Gamdias Kratos | M1 550 bronze GPU: XFX 570 BLK Edition I do not know what else to do. Any help would be appreciated!

I have no idea what’s happening or what’s causing it, but it happened twice and both times I was playing a game. I was playing AC: Odyssey when my screens suddenly went black and lost signal. Apart from my screen losing signal, all my USB peripherals turned off or stopped charging (I could tell by the LEDs turning off on both the mouse and keyboard. Also, my phone which was connected via USB, stopped charging). My towers fans continued spinning, motherboard LEDs were still on. I couldn’t ALT+TAB or ALT+F4, the screens just remained black and without signal. The first time this happened, I was playing Watch Dogs 2. I recently upgraded my system’s motherboard, SSD, RAM, CPU, and GPU. In addition, I am running a fresh install of Windows 10. My current specs are: Windows 10 Motherboard: MSI B450 Tomahawk CPU: 2600x OCed to SSD: Kingston A400 RAM: Trident Z RGB 16GB - 3000 GPU: ASUS DUAL 2080 OC PSU: EVGA 750W G2 I’ve had this PSU for about 3-4 years now, could that be causing the problem? More info: I am running a dual screen 1080p 144hz Monitor setup and they both have a USB 3.0 hub built in which I have connected to 2x 3.0 ports on my PC. Most of my parts are recently upgraded (less than 2 months old). The only old parts that I’m using are my PSU (3-5 years old) and my 2 HDDs (bought at the same time as PSU). My OS is running on a new SSD which I got about 2-3 months ago.

Even though I only have a 1080p 144hz monitor, I’ll see if I can sell the ones I have and buy new 1440p ones

Average $650. Cheapest one I found was $600. I looked around on r/hardwareswap and all the ones below $600 have been bought.

I'll most definitely upgrade my monitors later on. But as of right now, the PC upgrade is definitely where my priority is set.

Well, I could definitely save my lunch money until I eventually have enough for a 1440p monitor ?.

I forgot to mention that I'm running 2 1080p monitors, I apologize for leaving that out. Okay, let me ask you this.... If you had $1,000 to spend, this being the only chance you have of upgrading for next 3+ years, and had this build: CPU Intel i5 4690k Devil's Canyon Motherboard MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition RAM 16GB Avexir Core Series DDR3 - 2400 GPU EVGA GeForce GTX 980Ti SC+ AXS 2.0+ PSU EVGA 220-G2-0750-XR 80+ Gold 750W What would you upgrade?

I want to be able to take advantage of my 144hz monitor though, if that's even possible. In the newer games, I get around 60fps on max except on the last 2 Assassins Creed, I get usually 40-50 fps on those.

Should I aim for a lower tiered card? Like a 2070 or a 2060 and use the remaining money to buy a new-gen chip, board, and RAM? Or should I stick with the 4790k and just get the 2080 as I would be getting warranty?

That's the thing, buying new RAM + board would be out of my budget unless I stick with the 980ti.

One last question, I plan on playing at 1080p on a 144hz monitor. I currently have a 4690k but plan on buying a used 4790k shortly. Will the 4790k hold back the 1080ti or the 2080 if I decide to go for one of those?

The 2xxx cards are still facing problems to this day?

If I do decide to go for an EVGA 1080 ti, does the warranty transfer over?

I've been wanting to upgrade my 980 ti and I wasn't too sure which card I should upgrade to. I was checking out r/hardwareswap and I've seen a few used 1080 ti's popping up for about $600-$650 while you can get a brand new 2080 for around $699. I'm aware that the 1080ti has more VRAM and no raytracing, but I'm just worried it won't last as long compared to a new card. Which would be the best card to get?

Thanks for the advice. I greatly appreciate it. I'll definitely stick with what I got and just upgrade the CPU.

So the lower FPS has nothing to do with the GPU?

I've tried new installation of windows, I've redownloaded windows multiple times from the Microsoft page. I've tried underclocking, I've tried increasing fan speed. Reverting to older drivers, but it happens from time to time.