Tomasz2048

Does anyone know some registry hack or 3rd party software solution that would prevent seamless downgrade of refresh rate on the operating system level once certain value is set? Here is my situation: Hardware involved: * PC desktop with Windows 10 * Asus ROG Swift PG278Q G-Sync monitor * Dell Laptop with docking station * Aten CS782DP2Port USB DisplayPort/Audio KVM Switch - connecting everything together Once desktop is booted up it runs 2540x1440 with 144Hz After some time [how long – more on that later] screen blinks and 144Hz is reduced to 85Hz with no possibility of returning to 144Hz. 85Hz is the highest value in Nvidia panel from then on. Windows display settings sometimes are also limited to 85Hz, sometimes 144Hz is there but switching to it does not change actual refresh rate - it’s still 85Hz. To return to 144Hz I can either reboot the system or re-plug my DisplayPort cable between KVM and monitor. This situation never happens when Desktop PC is connected directly to Monitor, skipping KVM switch altogether. Time it takes for this to happen varies depending what DP cables I use. I tried at least 3 at this point. It lasts couple minutes on worst cable I tested and up to tens of hours of system being up on best cable I have. I think there are couple more factors that increases probability and shortens time on 144Hz, but those might be a placebo effect: 1. how much DP cables are tangled and bent 2. laptop is plugged in and running on other KVM input 3. game is running and G-sync mode is used I realize that this is caused by whole link falling out of DP 1.2 spec because of two DP cables and KVM chained together. Maybe quality of DP cables can improve things but after testing three already, I’m starting to look more towards software solution. What I’m looking for from software perspective is for operating system ignoring intermittent and hopefully short-lasting fact of falling out of DP 1.2 spec and continuing working within in DP 1.2 spec. I realize this is on purpose because theoretically one can end up with blank screen with no way of recovering but I think in my case it would be fine.

I got my G25 long before G27 came out - I just heard shifting stick is lesser quality in G27, with no switching possibility between sequential or standard shift stick - but that only matters if you care for a stick - i use paddles anyway. Other than that i do miss more buttons under thumbs in some arcadish games [NFS]. I play GRID, GRID2, Dirt series, NFS's [only some of them... some are total B$#], I also support and paritcipate in Project C.A.R.S.

ok, will try to confirm that by openning side panel and test it again - maybe will have to open up top vents and add fans there... too bad h110 wouldnt fit there...

temps tops at 82C/69C values over 90 are power% and usage%

exactly, it does not look that ugly in daylight

im a frames-per-second freak animation fluidity over 4K resolution or IPS color palette geting g-sync ASAP got h110 but it would not fit the case on the top

Here is my build, completed today sorry for crappy pictures, taken with phone and some compact camera CPU: Intel i7 4770K GPU: 2x MSI GTX 780 Ti Gaming RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2 x 4GB 1600MHz 8-8-8-24 Motherboard: MSI Z87 G45 Gaming Sound Card: SoundBlaster X-fi PCIe Titanium SSD: Samsung 840PRO 256GB HDD: Seagate 3TB DVD: Samsung SH-118 Black PSU: Corsair AX860 Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Black CPU Cooling: Corsair H90 [back exhaust] Fans: 3x Fractal Design Silent Series R2 140mm [1x bottom intake, 2x front intake] LCD: Asus 27" LED VG278HR 144HZ Webcam: Logitech HD Pro Webcam C920 Mouse: Logitech G500 Mousepad: X-trac pro Keyboard: Logitech Illuminated Keyboard + Logitech G13 Gamepad: Logitech F710 Wireless Steering Wheel: Logitech G25 HOTAS: Saitek X52 [not on pictures] Speakers: Logitech Z-5500 5.1 Headphones: Logitech G930 [not on pictures] Router: Asus RT-AC68U KVM Switch: ATEN CS1782A Not very patient with cable management on the back Power consumption: Box takes about 80Watts on idle, it peaked around 650 Watts during Firestrike Benchmark so far [no overclocking yet, only OC Genie enabled - mild Auto OC on CPU] Benchmarks and some stats:

I have this case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129015 it has cpu cooling inlet from side wall as you can see, behind that there is removable plastic airduct improving airflow for flat cpu coolers got psu on top, taking air from CPU area and 120mm fan blowing air to the back from cpu area which option will be better? - Noctua nh-u14s - some flat cpu cooler such as Zalman CNPS8900 using side airduct noctua nh-d14 won't fit due to high profile RAM if you think flat cpu cooler is better what else than zalman would you recommend?

tea, earl grey, hot...

Poland 750 PLN = 235 USD