Ace

Wow that sure is commitment. Good luck you have way more patience then I could ever have.

Panasonic are the only company really doing it and its pretty much only the US getting the option to have one. http://www.panasonic.com/au/consumer/tvs-projectors/led-lcd-tvs/th-l65wt600a.html

Hey guys,
 
It's been a while since I last done my first build log with my ridiculous corsair 900D and GTX Titan and after a few dramas (none the less finished) water cooling that baby it was time I moved on to my next build of a HTPC.
 
Case - Corsair 350D
CPU - Intel i5-4670
Motherboard - MSI Z87M-G43
GPU - Nvidia Geoforce GTX 780 - Asus Directcu II
PSU - Seasonic -660 Platinum
SSD - Samsung 840 Evo 250GB
HDD - 3x Seagate Barracuda 3TB
RAM - 2x 8GB Corsair Vengeance
Optical Drive - LG Blu-ray Reader
CPU Heatsink - Corsair H100i
Fans - 2x Corsair SP-120, 3x Corsair AF-140
Sound Card - Sound Blaster Z
 
There is a few dramas with this build such and the card I was gonna use was bricked from my last build (GTX Titan) that hurt a bit on the wallet. So Money was pretty tight for this build I was originally going to put in a custom loop but they change quickly.
 

 
Then I decided to continue on from my previous build of a Decepticon (Red and Black) PC and make an Autobot one (Blue and Black). This involved alot of spray painting and carbon fiber wrapping and custom sleeving from ModDIY. Sorry about the quality of the pictures but my camera is out of battery. By the way the brown on the motherboard isn't that light in real life its just the camera (my poor photo taking skills).
 

I have my PC connected to a Samsung 55in LED tv as my main monitor...
I will not upgrade to 4k until HDMI 2.0 is released because 30hz is just a pain to look at.
Sure You can't play games on it too well, but browsing the web and doing work will be much more pleasing when I don't see each pixel...
4k 55in TVs are getting very cheap now, around $2500 from Samsung (not buying the cheap seiki crap) but I want to be sure that I can get 60hz from my graphics card to my TV

I'm in the same boat, 4K sure is tempting, but I believe it is worth holding out for a few more years until you buy a 4K TV. As far as I know there is no TV/Movie content yet and by the time that finally comes, the displays will be that much better just like with first generation Plasma/LCD vs what is currently in the stores, not to mention prices will drop as well. If you do get one however, I would say sell your 50' Plasma and get some money back or give it to family.

I have an update post that will come through in the next couple of weeks.  I had to RMA the PSU due to a Corsair recall.  
 
Regarding the fans, I have installed two SP120 PWM fans using BitFenix 140mm to 120mm fan adapters.  Further, I replaced the rear exhaust fan with an AF120 performance edition.  Lastly, to free up so more airflow from the front AF140mm intakes, I removed the hard drive cage and have mounted the HDD to the bottom of the case using some anti-vibration mounting screws.
 
At the time of the initial build, I sacrificed some performance on the rad since Corsair does not make 140mm SP fans.

I really like the panel covering the power supply. It is a great colour match to your coolant and has the effect as if the coolant is filled in the lower portion of your case. I would love to see someone make a res that covers the bottom of the case.

3D rendering is generally CPU bound. 
Cuda is generally only used with things like iRay, rough hardware rendering, and some simulations.
 
I don't know of many things that could use multiple cards to help render any faster except for maybe Sony Vegas.

That looks awesome The only thing I don't like are the decals on the side and the... *shudders* ...case badges

Update:
Taken the Titan out and put in a EVGA Hydro Copper in due to some complications. Running 2x480 Coolgate rads with a pull configuration with the Noctua NF's. 700ml EK res and a EK CPU waterblock and primo chill 3/8 ID 5/8 OD tubing with bitspower compression fittings. The pump is a D5 with EK fitting for the 1/4 fittings. After a lot of frustration with my H220 pump shitting itself I had to water cool sooner then I thought I would have to. I love the 780 and it seems to work alot better with games than the titan and the 3gb less vram has no side effects. All in all I love my build but I would never advise someone going into water cooling unless they have someone there with experience to guide them through it. I made plenty mistakes but I can't take them back now but I like the end result. Next build will be a titan steam machine haha.
 
       

Some people cannot be pleased I think it looks amazing buddy!

Some people cannot be pleased I think it looks amazing buddy!

Some progress but not of the great kind.....

I made the replacement backpanel and have it fitted,unfortunately I cant go R-ATX like i first wanted,there is simply not enough room.

So it back to square one.

No bad thing as now i get to use the pedestal and have a LOT more room to do stuff.





As you can see here,its so tight,I could 'force' it in but it would just look cramped...



No fan could be installed there and the rad would be on the floor.squashed right in with no room to work on it other than by removing the backpanel.



So,I need to get some paint on soon so it can start the cure now for mop polishing in 3 months time.

Also need to get over to the PARVUM guys for a day of mill action for the res.....

All in all,a bad month...broke finger,a small ding in my car and now my lovely plan for this build has gone slightly south.






Reminds me,I must play the Lottery......

1) 'Floor speakers' (aka 'tower speakers') and 'Bookshelf speakers' are referring to physical size/height of a speaker. Floor speakers are taller and do not require a stand/mount and are generally at ideal listening height whereas bookshelf speakers require some sort of elevation. Also, floor speakers can usually play at louder volumes due to cabinet size (depending on brand and quality of course, this is always a factor). This might be more relevant to newer speakers though as things have changed a lot since the 1980's. Older speakers are quite different in terms of size and design.
'Desktop speakers' refer to computer type speakers.
'Satellite' / 'Tallboy" speakers are what you will find in a 5.1/7.1 package system (aka HTiB - Home theater in a Box) such as Sony, Bose, etc. Both 'satellite' and 'tallboy' are low profile speakers with a small footprint and are quite flat/thin in size in comparison to a bookshelf/tower speaker. So simply put, satellite=bookshelf and tallboy=tower, just much smaller form factor. Neither of these will have the same depth or frequency response as a bookshelf/tower speaker though. They tend to sound hollow in comparison, much like a computer speaker.
Hope that wasn't confusing, these terms are quite universal, so if you ask someone at a store they 'should' know or search a local add it will most likely be listed as such.
 
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2) You are half right, bigger speakers (bigger drivers) do produce more bass than smaller ones but nowhere near the level of a sub. Subs are designed to hit those low frequencies. Some people will say they are satisfied with the bass of their speakers and do not feel the need for a sub but this is personal preference. Also take into account the quality and cost of your purchase. Example, a $3000 pair of towers will probably have better bass than an $80 sub. It's all relative, like if you buy a $400 ROG motherboard and put a $50 Celeron CPU into it, (say wha!?) :P

Hey Guys,
This will be my first proper PC build from the bottom up. I have purchased most of the parts and now just waiting on pre ordered parts to come in stock so they can send them to me all at once for cheaper mail rates. I shopped around a bit and source some of my parts from MSY and the rest from PCCG. I hope to have completed this build by the end of next month. I have kind of chosen a Black and red theme but I had to go for the Noctua fans due to their noise level being so low (Brown and Cream colours are great *sarcasm*). Besides these factors I will not be doing any modding... for now. I may consider a full water loop with cpu and gpu in the future. I believe the total expense of my build now is around the $5,800 AUD mark. Any input would be great but remember I have purchased most of these parts already... pretty much all of them.  :P
 
Specs:
Case - Corsair Obsidian 900D (Purchased)
PSU - Corsair AX 1200watt (Purchased) with replacement corsair red sleeved cable kit (Not Purchased)
Motherboard - ASUS Maximus V Extreme (Purchased)
CPU - Intel core i7 3770K (Purchased)
RAM - 32GB Dominator Platinum (4x8GB) DDR3 (Purchased)
GPU - EVGA GeForce GTX TITAN 6GB Superclocked (Purchased)
SSD - 512GB Samsung 840 Pro (Purchased)
HDD - 3TB Seagate Barracuda (Purchased)
Sound - ASUS Xonar Essence STX (Purchased)
Headset - Sennheiser HD 650 (Purchased)
Fan Control - Lamptron FC5 V2 (Purchased)
Optical Drive - Pioneer 15x Blu-Ray Writer (Purchased)
WiFi Card - TP-LINK TL-WDN4800 (Purchased)
 
Peripherals:
Monitor - ASUS 27" PB278Q 6ms 2560 x 1440 PLS (Purchased)
Keyboard - Razer Blackwidow Ultimate T1 (Purchased)
Gaming Keypad - Razer Orbweaver (Purchased)
Mouse - Razer RZ-TAIPAN (Purchased)
MousePad - Razer RZ-Vespula Dual-Sided (Purchased)
Webcam - Logitech C920 HD (Purchased)
Receiver - Pioneer VSX-521 (Owned)
Speakers - Wharfedale WA-S4 Speaker pack (bar the rear speakers) (Owned)
Microphone - Blue Yeti Pro (Not yet purchased)
 
Fans & Cooling:
CPU Water Cooler - Swiftech H220 (Purchased)
Rad Fans - 4x NF-F12 PWM (Purchased)
Case Fan - 1x NF-A14 FLX (Purchased)
 
Odds & Ends:
Artic Silver ArctiClean (Purchased)
Artic Silver 5 Thermal Compound (Purchased)
Heatkiller GPU Backplate GTX Titan (Purchased)
BitFenix Alchemy Connect 60cm Red LED Strip (Purchased)