penance

A Phanteks Evolv ATX with a tempered glass window would look mighty nice! You could also get the Eclipse P400 which has a red LED on the front and comes in a few different colors that can suit your preference.

The Aria headphones, love the style and build quality.

Look what finally came in! Now just gotta wait til the water block and back plate come in to really push it. Oh well running on air for now.
 

You could just make life easier and move router 2's network plug out of the WAN port and to a LAN port, then turn DHCP off on router 2. This would basically make router 2 a switch/antenna. Just set router 2's ip to 192.168.1. something.

Not sure on his router but what you are thinking of is the access point Wendell recommened. Its a Ubiquiti UniFi AC access point.
 
http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UniFi-Enterprise-System/dp/B00D80J2XU

I switched from the PC360's (basically the 558's with a mic) to DT990's recently. To me the DT 990 is a much more fun headphone with much punchier bass. Don't get me wrong the PC360/558 sound great but if bass is important to you go DT990.

I actually just finished out my Custom loop in a 750D. WHat airdeano is saying is very true however with my GD65 Gaming the 8-pin was just enough to the left of the board to not be under the fan so it ended up fitting where I got into trouble was the heatsink on my VRM which was hitting my fan. I ended up having to trim down the color ring on my SP120 to make it fit. So it really comes down to luck of the draw on your 8pin placement on your board. As far as the front 240 I ended up doing it in mine with push pull because I liked the astetics. So far temps are great with my 360X60 in push in the roof and 240x60 push/pull in the front. I am running two GTX780's with 200mhz OC and a 4770k at 4.5GHZ. The GPUS are sitting at 24C idle, 30-32C while gaming and if I really push them about 38C on a bench. My cpu is around 40C gaming, 48C under bench. 
 
Just a piece of advice, and I can thank Airdeano for this. If you front mount your rad on the 750d because of the way they did the mount the 30mm screws will be too short and 35mm will be to long. You are going to need around 32mm for a perfect fit. I ended up buying sound damping spacers that were 4mm but rubber so the worked perfect. You could alternatively cut them down in size.

You won't lose anything but it may require you to reactivate. This can be an issue if you have a non retail copy of Windows such as an OEM which is only valid for an install on one machine. If enough equipment changes then they key will no longer be considered valid. You are not going to lose anything though. You could experience long boot times, degraded performance, driver conflicts, and excessive errors. It is very hard to say depending on how different the boards are.

I would not advise swapping your motherboard and cpu and using the same windows install. Do a fresh install you are likely going to have all kinds of crazy issues if not. The motherboard is the heart of your system and Windows can be very flaky if that changes. Not to mention it will most likey make your Windows install no longer valid as with that major change in equipment it will think its a new machine and require reactivation. 

I would not advise swapping your motherboard and cpu and using the same windows install. Do a fresh install you are likely going to have all kinds of crazy issues if not. The motherboard is the heart of your system and Windows can be very flaky if that changes. Not to mention it will most likey make your Windows install no longer valid as with that major change in equipment it will think its a new machine and require reactivation. 

You won't lose anything but it may require you to reactivate. This can be an issue if you have a non retail copy of Windows such as an OEM which is only valid for an install on one machine. If enough equipment changes then they key will no longer be considered valid. You are not going to lose anything though. You could experience long boot times, degraded performance, driver conflicts, and excessive errors. It is very hard to say depending on how different the boards are.

I would not advise swapping your motherboard and cpu and using the same windows install. Do a fresh install you are likely going to have all kinds of crazy issues if not. The motherboard is the heart of your system and Windows can be very flaky if that changes. Not to mention it will most likey make your Windows install no longer valid as with that major change in equipment it will think its a new machine and require reactivation. 

You are going to need to explain better what you are wanting to do. You say you don't want a headphone amp so I assume you are not using headphones but you want optical out. If you are going to use optical out then the sound card is not doing anything so buy the cheapest thing you can get.

I actually just ordered an O2+ODAC with rear power this week. Your comment about the RCA output would be a very nice addition. With the model I just purchased for my SP2500's I will have to still use my onboard sound. It would have been great to be able to plug those directly into the amp and not have to use the onboard sound at all. Also not sure if it is possible but it would be nice to have a switch to go back and forth between the headphone jack outputting vs the RCA this would prevent you from having to unplug your headphones if you just wanted to listen to your speakers.

The PC 360's don't have pleather ear cuffs, they are velour.

Man I hate that too, i just like the look of the front mount better. Gonna have to think on that one. I was hoping the push/pull would assist some with the front mount but it may make little difference. Now off to read his thread on OCN. Thanks for all the help!

you might rethink the front intake radiator placement. that intake filter and front
plate really starves the air-flow and those quiets are not going to be doing a
good job of pulling the air though. either up the fronts to PE/PE PWM or move
the radiator to the floor. Jamaican Reaper on OCN has howled about this point
on many occasions as i have too. it is a weak link of the case (better than the 800D)
for air-flow. try it and draw your own conclusion.

to bolt up the roof rad, you'll be off .250" so you'll have the pressure of the radiator
pushing in on the 8-pin, forcing pressure to the motherboard. the RIVE had less but
not by much less. it'll be a more pressure than your experiencing on the R4. the R4
at least had some mod room for a work around, here you have minimal at best.
@d33g33 offset his radiator and drilled new ventilation in the roof and now has more
choices of radiators.
 
ps, if you'll quote the message, that user will get a prompt to review the new message.

for a CPU/2xGPU build all you really need is 360x 60 and 240x 60 and 5 quiet high
static fans. to shovel this into a 750D will take some handy work as the roof 360x 60
will be a big concern. the motherboard 8-pin interferes with the rad/fan and gives you
two options: 1. accept it, 2. change to a 45mm roof radiator and possibly accept that
warmer temperatures or louder fan noise might be inevitable. i've fitted a Hero, MPower,
RIVE, Z87Pro, Z87-UD4H and all had 8-pin issues with the rad/fan. all accept the RIVE
could be deal breakers as the 8-pin is slotted far left and is dead squeezed mashing on
the motherboard (with some good pressure). the 240 on the front intake is a sore thumb
as the front panel/filter really cuts air flow down to a concerning level. so most go for the
floor, plus makes tube routing a lil easier. how ballsy your mod skills are and none of it
is a concern.
 
dual 360 in a 750D

 

 
a mini 750D look:

 

 
i haven't had one yet, but for no worries other than how to tube the case without a
spaghetti look is usually the biggest concern on the 900D, oh and how to pay for it and it
is SOO OOOGGE!

PC360 would be closer to apples to apples as they are both open ear headphones.

PC360 would be closer to apples to apples as they are both open ear headphones.

If you want a headset then the Sennheiser PC360's are the way to go. If you are good with headphones and seperate microphone your options open up. 

Menacing tuba did a review on it and he said the Viewsonic VP2770 still remains king of 2560x1440 monitors.
I will try to find the review.

I was in the same debate, ended up getting the 780 myself. My prices are US but for me $500 was near the top of my budget and regardless of the performance of the 780ti I was not dropping $700 on a card. On the 290x front I'm still skeptical even on the aftermarket cooler front. After seeing what some are getting even water cooled the 290x is starting to feel like what AMD did with the 9590 where you have something coming factory near the top of its clock speed. Hard to say but so far the overclocks are not looking outstanding. I was able with my MSI GTX 780 gaming to overclock with the air cooler to a point that beat the 290X benchmarks I have seen, even based on what people were getting with the 290x overlocked.

THE best consumer 2560x1440 monitor is the viewsonic VP2770, Best response rate, One of the best preset colours. Semi glossy matte coating so no grainy matte.
 
No backlight bleed. It doesn't use PWM backlighting.
 
Overall the best. Menacing tuba has a review of it if that counts for something.