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amvoith

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  1. Like
    amvoith reacted to GOTSpectrum in LTT Folding Team's Emergency Response to Covid-19   
    And the final changes are being made to the sheet now, it should be all good to go for the update!!!
     
    WOO!!!
     
    It has been so much work I can't even explain the way it feels...
  2. Like
    amvoith reacted to S2000Gan in Downsizing my Watercooled NCase M1 to the Dan Case A4-SFX   
    This is an awesome build! 
    Im getting a Dan case soon 
    I managed to get a 4670K and Asrock Z87E-ITX for $100 and had 2x8GB DDR3 1600 and a GTX 780 laying around.
    Already bought a SF450 Platinum, 1TB msata 850 EVO, and NH-L9i.
  3. Like
  4. Like
    amvoith reacted to KzE in |||| |||| |||| |||| Wall PC Build Log |||| |||| |||| ||||   
    Cooling fins

    Yay cooling fins are back from black anodizing. It is a electrochemical process where the part is submerged in a tank.
    Electrical current is then put through the part which causes the desired effect. simplified.
    Where they were held the treatment had no effect, so I used a permanent marker to hide that.


        
    So everything was going very well, when suddenly I realised that the copper pipes are just a bit above the sytrofoam blocks and metal sheets. To acheive the boxed and flat look, it was important that each cooling fin panel was absolutely straight relatively to the glass. Since there is a glass panel behind it, and the styrofoam is always the same thickness, this would go very smoothly. But now with this pipe too high.. damn. You almost can’t see it in the picture, and I don’t know why this didn’t happen in my tests.



    A good but labour intensive solution was to mill out a concave groove on the back side.
    bye bye anodization. But you won't notice it from the front.

     
    I tried it with one part and it worked.


     
     
    Then, and we are a few days later now as this took some time, all the fins were to go in.
    I was using hard wood laths as spacers. It was hard to feed the screws in from below the
    glass, and lower the fins exactly so they would match the holes in the block. Otherwise
    I would've gotten thermal paste into the thread.
    Here you can also see the frame for the first time. Each side has a small groove where the
    glass fits in tightly. The corners are held together with screws, it can't fall away.
    The frame just magically appeard out of nowhere, that's why there are no photos of its creation.

    doubt.jeg





     
     
    Another leak test?
    Another leak test!

     

    Fittings to the soft tubing were temporary. Needed new holes I didn’t think of before. The glass is fractured around
    the cut because I had to do it with a power drill. CNC cuts are much better.
     


     
    After the leak test, those flexible tubes were all milky.. does anyone know why?
    I used some chemically filtered water.. really pure. Maybe it attacked the tubes…
    I later bought some made-for-this-application-water.


  5. Like
    amvoith reacted to Rosinbole in [Scratch build] P S Y C H E D E L I C   
    I've chosen to focus on updating the forum post on smallformfactor.net/forum.
    Here's the link: https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/p-s-y-c-h-e-d-e-l-i-c.9532/
  6. Like
    amvoith reacted to enthalpy in 23 Noctua fans? Well... yeaa! [Upgraded to 18 Cores]   
    But wait... there is more  It was about time!  23 Noctua got an upgrade!
     

     
    ...and in march 2018 we go hard pipe  
     

  7. Like
    amvoith reacted to djburnsey in Playstation 1 gaming PC GTX1080+8700k   
    Ok so i have been planing this build for over a year and waiting for the parts to become available and after so long it is finally done. My initial idea was to build the fasted pc possible in the smallest amount of space so a ps1 was chosen  as it is only 2.1645 litres and i wanted a challenge. i seen that the asrock desk mini could support a gtx 1080 and foung out how small the mother bored was. it was then that it was decided that i would use this as the base
     
    Specs
     
    Case: it should be obvious by the title a PS1
    Processor: intel 8th Gen Core i7-8700K Processor
    Motherboard: Asrock Z370M-STX MXM
    Graphics card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 (8GB GDDR5X) MXM card
    Ram: 32 GB G.SKILL Ripjaws DDR4 Laptop Memory (only 16gb used see below why)
    Storage: Intel 760p 1TB M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD/Solid State Drive
     
    water cooling loop 
    Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 40mm Triple radiator
    3x Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX ( 40x40x10mm ) 
    Alphacool NexXxos GPX Pro Solo with backplate - black
    tubing PUR 8/6mm (1/4"ID) clear
     
    8/6mm (6x1mm) barb fitting G1/4
    thermal grizzly conductonaut (it needs it)
    acrylic spray (reading the instruction it mentions not to be sold to the public and to be used by professionals witch i'm not)
     
    miscellaneous stuff bought
    switches
    led
    mother bored standoffs
    Crimp pin connectors
    latch connectors
     

     
     
     
    The build
    This was a time consuming project took be about 2 and a half months to complete (it was done is my spare time and i was on holiday for two weeks) and frustrating as the is next to no room when building inside of something so small.
     
    Ps1 prep
     
    I stated of buy removing the inner workings of the play station witch to my surprise the ps1 i bought was chipped and giving the case a clean as this console has been sitting in the back of a store for a long time after that came the fun part using a dremel to remove all of the bumps, screw holes and divider plate to make room for the mother board and space for the rear io. then making some holes for the mother board stand offs
     
    I used hot glue to connect the switch and led to the case so the power and reset buttons work and the led turn on like the original ps1. I also use hot glue to connect the latch switch to allow the lid to open and close I was not able to use the original button to do this as the radiator it in the way
     
     
    Mother board prep and why only 16GB of ram
     
    So as i am using liquid metal in this build i need to protect my components with an acrylic spray it easy to use just spray on to a cotton swam and start covering every thing around what you are about to liquid metal. found out this can take a lot of time so i went with the easier method and just sprayed it on making sure i covered the cpu and gpu chips but i forgot to cover the ram so after it hardened and i went to post the PC it failed to boot turns out the first ram socket i cover some of the pins preventing contact as the cpu still recognises that it is there but cant store properly it get stuck in a post loop. i have tried to remove the acrylic but to no success i spent nearly a week under a black light with sand paper to remove the acrylic but to no success so i left the second stick out
     
     
     
    Water cooling loop build
     
    so i turns out that the gpu block o bough does not fit on the mxm card as the mounting hole are to close on the card but i did notice that the screws that hold the cooling plate to the plastic housing match up with the holes on the gpu so i got some long bolts and the dried through the hole for the screw in the plastic housing fed the bold through the top of the plastic housing then the cooling plate and finally onto the gpu making sure to bolt the block back together tightly 
     
    as space is limited in a ps1 i decided to skip having a reservoir it is possible but not required as filling the loop requires submerging parts water a letting it run until no air is left i done this by filling a bucket with deionized water at puting the radiator and pipe in then taking a bottle of deionized water and connecting it to the end of the pipe and squeezing the water through the loop then once all the air bubbles where out disconnecting the bottle and connecting the pipe to the radiator under water
     

     
    The Finished Product 
     
    It runs just like any other PC it is a bit on the hotter side having idle temps of about 50c at idle i have not yet done a stress test on it to see if it will throttle but will update later with the results
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
    I could probably have done better a cutting the holes maybe next time and i cant find the panel for the parallel port might have to print one

     
     
     
    will link more photos at after bench marking with the case apart

     
    Edited to correct spelling mistakes and to include new photos below and performance info
     
     
    Performance
     
    Under full synthetic load the pc thermal cut out due to over heating but can still manage to keep it temps below 50C when under light load  and should be fine whilst gaming
    one other thing i noticed when benching is that it is a lot quieter than i expected tested it with my phones db meter and it was at about 22 db a meter away and up close reaching 33 in front and near 60 db right next to the fans but I believe this was manly due to the air being blown into the mic 
     
  8. Like
    amvoith reacted to B4Quattro in Biggest?   
    With my 2 Mo-Ra 3 360's and my XSPC RX360V3 i have 2520mm of radiator space XD
     

  9. Like
    amvoith reacted to H3LLSMAN in The Water Cooling Gallery   
  10. Like
    amvoith got a reaction from Rosinbole in Downsizing my Watercooled NCase M1 to the Dan Case A4-SFX   
    Testing out the LEDs while I wait for the last parts in shipping.


  11. Like
    amvoith got a reaction from Dissitesuxba11s in Downsizing my Watercooled NCase M1 to the Dan Case A4-SFX   
    Got voted for 4th place in the Dan Case hall of fame competition build is featured on his site now. 
    https://www.dan-cases.com/dana4_hof.html
  12. Like
    amvoith reacted to Capnspace in The Water Cooling Gallery   
    Finally had time to install all 4 modules and attach the EK water block.  I will be re-doing the bends so that everything is parallel, but since I had limited time and wanted to get online to play some pubg with my friends, I set it up the simplist way possible. Please let me know what you think and how I can do the final loop. Otherwise, it came out pretty nice. 
    Thanks! 



  13. Like
    amvoith got a reaction from Rosinbole in Downsizing my Watercooled NCase M1 to the Dan Case A4-SFX   
    Realized I never uploaded the final pics. Here are a few I took this past spring. I've sinced moved places and the tubing runs are a little more elegant (hidden behind my desk). There are a few minor things I've been meaning to finish like some fitting changes and painting the PCIe extender. Plus upgrading the SSD capacites. Anyways, hope you enjoy!
     

     

     

     

  14. Like
    amvoith reacted to TyMeador in You may be cool, but are you "using the earth for a heatsync" cool?   
    So my buddy built this gaming rig back in like 2010
     
    i7 930 6GB DDR3 (TRI channel) 1TB hdd GeForce GTX 480 He has since upgrade it to have 24GB of DDR3, a 512Gb SSD and a Radeon R9 380. Now, neither of us are swimming in cash so instead of upgrading his current PC we devised a fun little experiment. The liquid cooling loop to end all liquid cooling loops. GEO THERMAL.
     
    The plan was to dig a trench underneath his house about 3 feet deep and bury some PVC pipe. We ordered an inline-pump and put it under the house and ran the power cable up through the wall and into his computer running it off of the 12V rail of his pcs power supply. We decided to liquid cool the CPU, GPU, and North Bridge.
     
    We didn't think to take any pictures of temps before the experiment, so I have no way of proving our gains. But I have personally seen his Northbridge regularly hit 100C on air.
     
    So we dug the trenches...

     
    Ran the Pumps power cable up through the wall and into his PCs power supply. Then piped up the computer.

     
    It's an early prototype with a custom built wall mounted "desk-puter". We drove the audio system with the amp you see on the left which also runs off the 12V rail of the PSU. The fans you see are only present so that the PSU has some gentle air flow. (The two fans to the right are intake, there are two more on the left for exhaust that are not pictured)

    And check out these temps!!! Sub-ambient idle temps WITHOUT active cooling! (NOTE: The package temp sensor is inaccurate at this end of the temperature spectrum. 4c is likely incorrect)
     

     
     
     
     
    Full-GPU load temps (FurMark)
     

     
     
    Overnight Full system load temps with the CPU overclocked to 3.8Ghz. (The base clock on the i7 930 is 2.8Ghz and it has a locked multiplier. So we did all of our overclocking on the FSB...)
     
     

     
    I'd say that planet earth makes one hell of a heat-sync!
     
    What do you guys think?
  15. Like
    amvoith reacted to Rosinbole in Matias' P2 - Dan A4-sfx v1 build and case mod   
    I decided that the misaligned holes just didn't cut it, so I took off to my grandparents to do some modding!   Here I changed...   ...the stock PCIe riser to a black one which I had lying around.   ...the colour of the noctua fan to black.   And then to finish it off, I gave the case a fresh paintjob and took some nice photos with a real DSLR!






















  16. Like
    amvoith reacted to B4Quattro in Black Desk Project   
  17. Like
    amvoith reacted to B4Quattro in Black Desk Project   
  18. Agree
    amvoith reacted to Newbithian in "Spectre-IV" - 10+ years in the making   
    Little over ten years ago, at the age of 11, I decided I wanted to build a computer after watching my father and brother build them so many times before. I proposed the idea, received a Core 2 Quad Q6600 for my birthday, a motherboard for Christmas, and started building the rest out of parts we had lying around. Ever since then, I've slowly been upgrading it piece-by-piece, and below is an idea of that journey:
     







     
    Through to now:
     






     
    Also a bonus hardline-tubing planning render:

     
    As well as a bonus photo of the exterior cable management (& the side of my desk I neglected to stain):

     
    Fun fact: every picture from 2012+ was taken with the same camera (Nikon D3200), so the timeline kind of serves as the development of my photographic abilities, too!
    A very detailed list of nearly every part featured currently, as well as what I paid for them, can be found here: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/pnr2RJ
     
    First post, so I hope I'm not breaking any rules or anything.
  19. Like
    amvoith reacted to basToRNutO in Little Green Beast   
    This is my new rig!
    Moved from a i5 2400, GTX 780 (that broke down) and no SSD in a 2008 $20 case to this... I'm very happy.
     
    Specs:
    - i7 8700k
    - GTX 1080 Ti (EVGA GAMING)
    - Cosrair Vengeance LPX (3200 MHz) (2x8GB)
    - Samsung 960 Evo (500 GB)
    - AsRock Fatal1ty Gaming K6
    - Corsair RM850x
    - Lian Li PC-O11WX
    - 6x Noctua NF-F12 PPC PWM, 2x Noctua NF-A8 PWM
     
    The cables were hand made in my kitchen.
    Thank you everyone that helped me with my questions, there was a lot of first timers for me with this build!
     
    CPU runs 5.0 GHz @ ~1.33v at the moment, temps are unknown as I'm still having some little problems, most likely the delid went wrong, so needs fixing in about a week.
    GPU runs 2050/6055 MHz in the 44C range on full load.
     










  20. Like
    amvoith reacted to ExpendableCustoms in Lambda Core   
    I've made all lighting from scratch - 3 RGB LED strips in black profiles with custom made cables. Two 35 cm stripes in angular profiles will be positioned on the sides and 40 cm stripe in flat profile will be positioned at the top, behind the radiator.
     

     

     

     
     
    Big thanks to Skeeper for cuting another hole in reservoir top. One of the loops (CPU loop)  will have return from the top radiator to top of a reservoir, and without such modification loop filling would be an extreme masochism.
     

     

     
  21. Like
    amvoith reacted to p0Pe in The grey wolf   
    Thanks man!
     
    So, update time, finally!
     
    I have had more requests than I can count about how I make my watercooling distro plates, so I have made a video that shows the process, and included a download link to the file in the video so you guys can try and make your own distro plates
     
     
     
     

     
    This is what I end up with after carefully measuring up where all port locations in the case should go. I then transfer this into a 3D program.
     

     

     
    The final plate after milling and polishing. The o-rings are fixed length, but you could also just cut some o-ring string and glue it together, but using fixed length o-rings are a tad safer.
     

     
    I mounted the acrylic plate on a 10 mm lasercut black piece of acrylic.
     

     
    The bottom piece also has holes for the GPU cables.
     

     
    Really like the fitting color, and the chamfer I made on the top of the distro plate.
     

     
    The pump mounts to the bottom of the distro plate, and goes straight up to the reservoir.
     

     
    Passtrough cables sleeved and mounted.
     

     
    Ready to mount everything inside the case
     

     
    And mounted, and ready for tubing.
     

     
    Tight spot under the plate for the pump.
  22. Like
    amvoith reacted to JR23 in R1.0 INDUSTRIAL - QUADFIRE PRO DUO   
    Right, let’s get this done before 2018!!! I made some crazy progress before Christmas and with FTW and i1.0-II out of the way it's time to get it posted. The first stage of attack, take every single thing apart!
     

     
    The system had been used for a few months (with huge stock GPU power cables trailing around the case) and then just sat for the best part of year full of it's Aurora silver + X1 black mixture. And actually despite common internet 'wisdom' nothing was clogged in the slightest, all fins clean, just a reservoir full of sediment and the usual traces of dye everywhere.
     

     
    With the very top of the loop drained the reservoir lifted off so I could take out the PSU and it's special support cube. Definitely don't want that getting wet.
     

     
    Then back end of the case removed to get at the cards.
     

     

     
    Subsequently repeated with the front end, very glad I opted to stash a 4-pin to 4-pin ATX style connector between the rads!
     

     
    After that the top lifted off the base, board came off, pumps off etc etc. I won't show all that stuff as it's been done in the thread once before and I also need to rebuild it.
     

     
    So lets skip ahead to the good bit where everything is clean and ready to go...
     

     
    While editing the above photos I fell in love with the gold hue to the CPU block, except it was regular nickel just with some oil leached out of the o-ring.
     

     
    So I ordered a real gold plated Supremacy, and immediately took it apart to swap in the neat little 2011 mounting bracket. All gold hardware was too much.
     

     
    But this was just right...
     

     

     
    ...perfect fit for the WS.
     

     

     
    Fast throwback to the 10th.
     

     
    Now I just needed all the other blocks up to the same standard, cleaning the plexi was easy, nickel less so.
     

     
    Just some aurora m80s
     

     

     
    All refitted, greased and torqued down.
     

     
    <3 AMD POWER!
     

     

     
    Time to commence rebuild, the EPS stayed in, 24-pin discarded as it just wasn't quite consistent enough.
     

     
    All the D5 work remained, except they now utilize a spare VGA connector on the 3rd row instead of individual peripheral connectors on the Silverstone.
     

     
    The WD Blacks switched from 2x6TB to 2x1TB, reason being I lived without them for a whole year and most likely will never use the HDD's at all in this build, so losing 10TB is no big deal. £500 of swag saved for another build.
     

     
    Board is back in black.
     

     

     
    Powerful vibes even before the GPU's hit. Pixels kneel before your God.
     

     

     
    With one push and one clip the bottom rads are back in the game.
     

     

     

     
    Extra 280, check.
     

     
    Now it's time to the ridiculous task i'd been putting off for so long. I feel like I need to explain. The original Silverstone was 1:1, the 24-pin was at the bottom near the hole in the midwall and the PCI were all up top. The EVGA on the other hand, weird pinout, completely swapped layout so every single thing had to overlap.... AND THEN.... just as if all those obstacles were somehow easy to overcome this 1600W is 20mm longer, which when there was about 40mm to play with kinda made a difference.
     

     
    Neatness wasn't optional here, it was completely mandatory if everything was going to fit inside the case hence I took a new approach to the problem.
     

     
    First up instead of cutting wires to a rough length everything was excessively long to start out then layered out of the PSU in the most efficient order.
     

     
    But to keep the pinout correct I had a cunning strategy.
     

     
    I took an old 24-pin connector and drilled out each hole to a close fit on the 3.1mm OD wire, then I could poke it from the correct pin on the PSU to the corresponding pin at the 24 end.
     

     
    So then all that remained was to trim each wire to the appropriate length, pretty easy when they were all held in the correct position and I could push/pull them through as needed on either side.
     

     
    PSU out it was just time to sleeve.
     

     
    Wire by wire I removed the PSU end, inserted the white wire to mark its exact route, then crimped the 24 end. Sleeved in Shade-19 and replaced back into its original position.
     

     
    Several hours or maybe days later (I don't really recall early December) all 24 were done.
     

     
    Such an improvement from my original EVGA set and moreover greatly reduced bulk in the back.
     

     
    Time for the angery power bois!
     

     
    They cleaned up purtty good too.
     

     

     
    Best to get the toobs in early.
     

     

     
    All the 8-pins would be a little more relaxed relative to the 24-pin, with a uniform layout not unlike the Silverstone each wire was a consistent increment longer than the previous. So once I got 4 wires to sit neat it went pretty speedy.
     

     
    One 8 down, completing the set was just a case of continuing the progression, working up and across.
     

     

     
    The entire set complete for the primary card. All layered over each other and stacked in, the next set was a repeat to the front row of VGA connectors. CPU1 squeezed between and then CPU2 tight over the top of everything.
     

     

     

     
    And there we have them all, absolutely colossal ratio of power to size.
     

     

     

     
    Screw what you guys think, I’m absolutely overwhelmed with the form of the cables as it stands now, in fact I think they may even be prettier than the first set.
     
    The SATA's aren't connected yet, I’m going to check that out tomorrow, but I’m really not fussed about ever using them. So unless the additional cables are going to make an improvement to the overall look I may leave them out. Aesthetic drives are fine with me, at least they won't make any noise lol. Buuut if they fit in just right, could be even more epic.
     
    JR
  23. Like
    amvoith reacted to venturi in 4x Titan V prototype   
    I decided to build a compact, small but powerful pc in a desktop /mid size.   Here’s what I built tonight:   Prototype 1 (my personal pc) Dual Xeon E5-2699 v4    44 cores / 88HT Super micro X10DRG-Q ver 1.10 Heavily customized Th P3 case / glass panel 1 960pro (2TB) (Os drive) 10x 850pro (2TB each) RAIDed (Apps Drive) 512 GB RAM (ecc reg)   4x TITAN V 1500W+ digital tiatanium PSU Ubuntu, MS 2012 Server R2, MS  2016 Server 4k ProArt 329q monitor   Used for research, medical imaging, nuc med, isotopes, DB, and games   It's not loud and runs quite cool, whisper quiet at idle. CPU coolers are from noiseblocker and are motherboard auto throttled to about 600rpm at idle Titans are quiet at idle   under load, you can hear the titans spin up, but its not bad or intrusive   In a 72'F room CPU temps at idle are 75'F-79'F under load they get as high as 96'F (35'C) In a 72'F room the Titans V's are 97'F under load the get as high as 172' F (78'C)   I made it an open design on purpose                              
  24. Like
    amvoith reacted to p0Pe in Benchy McBenchface - The ultimate test bench build   
    So excited to show this thing! I waited a bit with these pictures as I wanted to keep the entire mod a bit of a secret for Dreamhack Winter where I won first place in the casemodding competition with it. 
    This block is one of the most complicated distro blocks I have done. It is made from 2 pieces of 25 mm acrylic, and some 5 mm acrylic, as well as some custom alu parts. 
    The two 25 mm pieces switches in level where the pumps are placed so that I could avoid making 3 separate pieces, and keep the plate even more simplistic. 
    The plate also has some recessed M20 threads that fits the bitspower fillports. That way the real fittings will never stress the distro block, and swapping out fittings can be done with ease.

    Picture of the final distro block assembled.

    The solid chunks of material that was used for this mod.

    heavy pieces!

    This picture shows the top and bottom, where the top has been completely sanded down with grid 400-2500 and then polished, while the bottom is as it comes directly from the CNC. I spent more than 10 hours sanding and polishing these pieces.

    This picture shows the top and bottom, where the top has been completely sanded down with grid 400-2500 and then polished, while the bottom is as it comes directly from the CNC. I spent more than 10 hours sanding and polishing these pieces.

    This is how the bottom part looks after sanding with grid 2500. From here it will be polished 2 times, and then rubbed in some finishing spray.

    The M20 threads that will hold the fillports.

    And this picture shows the switch in level on the pieces.



    O-rings are all bought to size, and fitted into the channels so I did not have to glue them together.

    How the 2 plates looks put together.



    How the 2 plates looks put together.

    2 fillports mounted, and one fitting mounted into one of them. I also test mounted the Openbenchtable

    How it looks assembled.

    And the lovely monoblock for the zenith extreme.

    The 5 mm piece on the bottom was needed to connect the fluid channels from the pumps and further into the distro plate.

    These two fillports was not recessed as I needed the extra hight.


    Final piece.

    These are some of the custom aluminium parts that is going into the build as well. These have been milled, and then sand blasted, and will later on be anodized.

    The funny shape of this piece will be explained in a later update.
  25. Like
    amvoith got a reaction from EldarNi in Downsizing my Watercooled NCase M1 to the Dan Case A4-SFX   
    Realized I never uploaded the final pics. Here are a few I took this past spring. I've sinced moved places and the tubing runs are a little more elegant (hidden behind my desk). There are a few minor things I've been meaning to finish like some fitting changes and painting the PCIe extender. Plus upgrading the SSD capacites. Anyways, hope you enjoy!
     

     

     

     

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