MrMurphysLaw

So.. you're basically never going to buy anything ever again.
 
#FoxconnMakesEverything

Never seen that before, is it a real car or just a design someone made up?

There really in nothing that would be worthwhile to do to the car for more power. if you want a fast Mercedes, sell the car and buy a w211 e55 amg.

Not really. Engines can take some more boost than the standard, especially diesel blocks.
 
So you have a diesel engine and it has spark plugs? dudewat

If you want a fast car that you can do a lot of upgrades on, Skyline or Supra. RB and 2J engines can take shitloads of upgrades on stock block and internals. 

yoooo
 

no, thats an even worse idea. It is very hard to get 500hp out of that car. You can't do it with just the turbo. + its a diesel . If you really wanted 500hp, just take it to a car garage and pay them to do it, its alot harder than building a PC.
 
 
+ what the fuck kind of 15 year old has this kind of money? and you can't even drive legally yet

the answer is always 2jz
http://www.ebay.ca/sch/Complete-Engines-/33615/i.html?_from=R40&_vxp=mtr&_nkw=2jz+gte
but if you want to keep your engine, take it to a shop. probably need to get forged pistons and a cam that can handle more boost pressure

Steam charges us canadians a little extra over USD and even the Euro.

Quick, while FireFox is asleep!
 

 
Make no mistake, I'm a huge Subaru fan so I may be a bit biased.
 
But here is one of the best known GC8 Imprezas in time attack spec, doing what Roger Clark Motorsport does best (winning). Can't tell if it's the driver or the car, but it's quite a handful and strangely entertaining to watch. Dyno'd at approx. 850hp, weight of 1120kg, intended use: time attack, hill climb, track; dubbed "The Gobstopper." (The car has its own thread for display: http://www.xtremeracingtuning.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=201)

 
And something a bit more sensible, this time out of the Cobb camp. Again, winning a time attack event (approx. 550hp)

 
But time attack spec Subarus take second place to rally spec ones, of course. Scooby <3

Well, nope. Actually, it has gotten more attention here in the US now that the R32 is now US legal. But it's a bitch to register it in CA. And no mods can come with it.

I used to recommend asus, never ever will i do that again

Bad Oslo directions?Blue of death?
Hot BOD?
My best guesses.
To the op:
We need more info.

I dont think you understand what "screen real estate" means. you still have a 1920 by 1080 space to work with, your just stretching windows over large spaces which wastes a lot of space on your programs GUI and the task bar. If you like the stretched out wasted space look better than by all means go for it. I wasn't saying anything negative towards 4k monitors, monitors aren't designed to be 55 inches, a computer can utilize the screen real estate where a tv(when used as a tv) can not at this point.

yes.

That is unlucky

@MrMurphysLaw Should answer this lol.

Go to your sub box and you might not see a difference at first, take a little longer. You might see it, somethings missing.
 
WHERE THE HELL ARE THE CHANNEL NAMES GONE.
 
What the hell why did they have to go, i knew the channels via their names, not the damn icon, what if they are like me and change the icon just for the fuck of it.
 
Man im pissed even more then before, btw if you are about to play bf4 then know im gonna shoot the fuck out of everything.
 
NSFW

Be thankful for the competition, it benefits the consumer.

Don't install them, just don't.
 
 
 
If your car did not come with HID headlamps, you need to think long and hard before you go online and buy some hid bulbs and just jam them into your headlight housings.
 
 
First, HIDS were designed for PROJECTOR headlamps ONLY.  NOT, I repeat NOT reflectors.
 
 
If your lights look like this:
 

 
Then I don't want to see you ever, EVER !!!!!!! install those hid bulbs.  The light will shoot everywhere, everywhere but the g*d damned road, like in my eyes.  You actually get LESS road visibility, it's COMPLETELY counterproductive.
 
 
If you have projectors like the following
 

(projector on the far right)
 
and want to install hid bulbs, there are still issues.
 
Go read some here.
 
http://www.city-data.com/forum/automotive/1917546-stop-sticking-hid-bulbs-stock-projectors.html
 
 Suffice it to say, HIDS tend to have 2 hot spots when producing light, and need to be focused differently from halogens.  The stock projector housings that come with halogens are tuned for the HALOGEN light profile, NOT the HID bulbs.
 
You can get HIDS there, but you need more than just the bulbs for it to look right, you need the entire housing that goes with the HIDS to produce the correct beam pattern (typically a clear cut off line on the road, not in peoples eyes)
 
 
Nearly every time you see some light blinding you on the road, mark them as someone who probably put some HIDS where they should never have gone.

tip: install torque and RacingMeter Plugin on your nexus and buy a cheapy obd dongle
 
 

Why not just let people claim themselves?
https://collaboration.skype.com/

Hey Guys thought I'd share my Nexus 7 install with you.
 
UPDATE: Static and White noise issues were minimized by using a 15 Amp In Line Noise Filter/Suppressor. I've Also added an OBD2 Bluetooth scanner in my car which connects to my tablet to display information such as Engine temps , speed , rpm , fuel consumption etc etc
 
Background info: 
I recently purchased my Subaru Liberty 2006 (MY07) 3.0R Spec B Manual after slaving away underground for about a year and was extremely excited and seriously happy with my decision. Thankfully it had already had a lot of work done to it in regards to the audio setup with the stock head-unit replaced with an after market Alpine CD-5030 along with the required $600 fascia , Amp in the boot powering the stock subwoofer and speakers in the door replaced.

 
So basically after contemplating purchasing an extremely expensive Pioneer double din head unit or buying an "App Radio" I decided both these options were either way too expensive for what they were or didn't fit my needs and or desires. Hence the start of this project.
I was going to do a piece by piece forum post with updates and pictures but I was too excited and end up getting it all done first whilst taking pictures along the way.
 
Planning:
Firstly i looked a lot of other nexus 7 installs and found out 2 things. Firstly I'd need a 2012 Nexus 7 Rooted with Timur's USB ROM and a Joycon EXR Steering wheel controller.
I wanted to have the steering wheel controls actually work since the previous owner had done the audio upgrade but had left the controls not working. I considered also creating a reversing camera using a USB webcam I had lying around but the Field of view was horrible so i decided against it.

 
Parts:
Nexus 7 with Timur's USB-ROM http://mehrvarz.github.io/nexus-7-usbrom/
Subaru 7" AV Panel Kit http://bit.ly/HENwJ7
Subaru Info Panel Relocation Kit http://bit.ly/1ew24ZO
JoyCon EXR Steering wheel controller http://bit.ly/17U0iOb
USB OTG Y-Cable http://bit.ly/1cK9ngn
4-port USB Hub (Random Belkin 4 port hub)
 
Cost:
Nexus 7 - $170 (I was lucky enough to find one on ebay "Used" that when arrived literally looked like it had never been touched)
Subaru 7" AV Panel Kit - $250
Subaru Info Panel Relocation Kit - $128 ( Extremely expensive for what it actually is but thats JDM for you)
Joycon EXR - ~$56 inc Postage to Aus
USB OTG Y Cable - $14.90
Misc equipment like a new soldering iron , wire , solder etc etc was around $100
 
Total = Approx $700 
 
For all the parts to arrive from Japan , Korea , Australia and so on it took about 4-5 weeks in total and it was a LONNNGGG 5 weeks of waiting patiently for the gear to finally arrive and for me to make a start. But finally they arrived.




(NOT MY IMAGE OF JOYCON JUST USED FOR EXAMPLE)
 
The idea was relatively simple. Put tablet into new fascia , give it power ,plug accessories in and off I go. But nothing is ever that simple and the project ended up taking quite a bit longer than I expected. The thing that took the most time was RESEARCH. 
Finding information as to which wires out of the million that were there were for Steering wheel controls was mission impossible. Thankfully with help from some guys on Club.Liberty and  SVXdc from Legacy GT forum I was able to pin point the two wires under the steering column that were the signal wires for the steering wheel controls.




 
With the wires soldered and extended through to where the tablet was going to sit I was able to plug in the Joycon EXR and test/program the unit using a laptop. This process was relatively painless , the program just took some getting used to. Basically all that had to be done was to detect the 6 buttons and drag and drop what action I wanted them to do.

 
I then had the idea that if my tablet was to lose all power (become flat) , I would not be able to turn it back on again as it would just sit in that "charging" state with the picture of the battery. Therefore I decided to have a go at extending the power button and externalizing it.
The issue was that it was really really small and the soldered didnt seem to want to stick it it. I eventually managed to get a decent contact ( well what i thought was decent) and it work flawlessly. Until of course I moved it with even the slightest amount of force causing the solder to just come right off.
After about the 5th attempt at this I had in fact managed to melt the minuscule traces on the ribbon cable and broke the whole thing haha. I then ordered a new one off Ebay for $5 but being that it was from America , it cost me $23 for postage  :? 
Any how here is a picture of what it looked like when it worked.


 
When the new ribbon cable arrived I decided to give up on that idea for now and possibly revisit it later on if I had either A. Learnt how to solder properly or B. Had another spare as a back up   :lol:
 
Mounting it wasn't very hard, maybe a little fiddly but I used some hot glue for test fitting purposes and soon enough had a good enough position to start drilling some holes

 
It was shortly there after that i realised the Micro USB port and 3.5mm Jack were in horrible positions (Ran directly into one of the vents). I had 2 options either A. Find some right angle connectors that fit B. Drill holes into the air vent and run the cables through them. 
Thankfully I had a brain wave and decided to take apart the tablet again and have a look at the connectors themselves. It appeared that they too were just flexible ribbon cables underneath the stereo speaker bar. So I removed the screws holding down the speaker bar and Ribbon cable , lifted the connectors up in a right angle position and put the speaker bar back in place. 

 
I then marked up some slots on the back panel (case) and cut them out forming small gaps for the connectors to poke out of.




 
The connectors felt a bit loose and wobbly so I cut up some mesh from an old 5.25" drive bay cover and used it to screw the original screws into. I then hot glued and super glued them down to make sure they wont move.


 
After that all I had to do was Re test the Joycon , Test the USB Hub , Memory sticks and made sure the USB ROM functionality was working correctly. For Internet connectivity I will be using my HTC ONE via Bluetooth tethering , Wifi Hotspot or most likely via a direct USB cable as I dont want to drain my phone battery as I drive.


 
Moving the Information panel wasn't hard at all , I just followed the picture instructions that came with the kit (although the writing was in Japanese).


 
Now all that was left to do was connect the RCA cables to the AUX Input in the head unit, plug everything in and hope for the best. 
Here is some final pictures. 



 
Shout out to everyone who gave me advice , tips and tricks and especially Timur for creating such an epic Kernel. If anyone has any questions feel free to PM me or contact email me at johndhodder@hotmail.com.au and ill try help you as best I can. Cheers

This ^ so many people are to spoiled to know that they have stuff 10 times better than some others.

Haha the mod screams MCM inspiration, maaaaaad mod dude. Great job!