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XxRockTheBamxX

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About XxRockTheBamxX

  • Birthday Nov 20, 1995

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    Rockthebam101

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Columbus, OH, US

System

  • CPU
    AMD FX 8350 4.6ghz
  • Motherboard
    Asus Sabertooth 990FX
  • RAM
    16 gb Corsair Vengeance
  • GPU
    Asus Gtx 980 Strix SLI OC
  • Case
    Corsair 780t white
  • Storage
    1x 500gb WD black 1x 1tb WD black 1x OCZ Trion SSD
  • PSU
    Corsair HX850
  • Cooling
    Custom EK/Swiftech mix
  • Keyboard
    Thermaltake Ttesports Poseidon ZX
  • Mouse
    Madcatz RAT5
  • Operating System
    win7 ultimate 64bit

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  1. I can't give you exact numbers off the top of my head, but I do know that as far as thermals are concerned because you are running a quad core you actually have a bit more headroom than something like an 8350 because the chip isn't as dense (if that sort of makes sense I don't know how else to put it) but the 8350 is never supposed to exceed 61c if you can help it, I believe you have at least an extra 5 degrees of headroom or so with the quad core. I will try and look it up and give you an actual number
  2. The reason they moved to a heat spreader is because the dies themselves are relatively easy to crack and was a huge issue some years ago with aftermarket coolers, the reason also being that the die itself gets hotter in certain areas because each core has a different temperature based on how heavy of a load it is under, the heat spreader makes it so it spreads the heat a little better across the cores, as well as the contact surface for the cooler is a uniform temperature, and doesn't have any hot spots, ergo, heat spreader.
  3. Honestly, it sounds like your overclock is unstable. You are likely showing failure in far cry because it stresses your gpu in a different way. And honestly, what are you overclocking a 1070 for? They are super powerful as is, and honestly as of all the current testing you will likely get better performance and higher boosts by setting an aggressive fan curve and letting the current version of gpu boost do its thing and not forcing a clock. The 1060's even boost themselves to just shy of 2ghz on the current architecture, and the gddr5x doesn't like overclocking very much so that may well be your issue. Try setting your power limit to 110, set an aggressive fan curve, and test again. I almost guarantee you will see the same or better performance and no crashes.
  4. Prime 95 is free and will test the hell out of your CPU, and Unigine Heaven is a free gpu benchmark that even linus uses. make sure you have something like HW monitor or Asus AI suite to monitor your CPU temps, and if you use AI suite keep in mind that the reading will be around 5 degrees high compared to actual package temp. http://www.mersenne.org/download/ Prime 95 https://unigine.com/products/benchmarks/heaven/ Unigine Heaven - might take a little while but its only around 200mb Oh and when you launch prime 95 and it asks what test you want to run pick the top option, small FFTs
  5. yes that would seem to be perfect. you should be all good now, and as far as your loop is concerned, so long as you don't see any bubbles in the lines when the computer is on, and your reservoir never runs dry, I wouldn't worry about it. the way you have it set up although not optimal, will basically purge itself every time the pump turns on. now that you have all of the cooling fins sorted out and such, you should do some benchmarks and post some CPU and GPU temps on this thread, I'm sure we are all interested
  6. look up some stuff on how to overclock monitors, I'm not guaranteeing that this one will want to go any higher than 60hz, but generally speaking you can pull about 10 extra hz out of most good monitors, the easiest way to do so is by creating a "custom resolution" in the Nvidia control panel, put in your monitors resolution, and step the hz up by 2 and hit the test button, keep doing this until it fails or you get really strange artifacting, once you hit what seems to be your limit, go play a game and see if it acts strange. if not, great, if it does, go start reducing it by 1-2 hz and repeat until you find a stable number. (side note if one HDMI seems like its not working well switch to the other, and don't use any adapters like dvi to hdmi. Nvidia control panel is funny, and If it sees something it doesn't like, It will outright disable the custom resolution option)
  7. you need to remove the small heat fins from the top of the card, the two that I circled in blue are ones you put in the correct spot, you need to take the two off of the top side of the card as well as the extras you have and put them in the places I circled in black. and as far as having air in your loop, the way you have it set up will create some air pockets when the computer is off due to the hose draining into the top of the reservoir, but so long as the reservoir stays full, they should purge within a few seconds of the computer being turned on. but you really need to move all those fins to the locations I told you, those are all things that need cooling, and could potentially over heat If you don't place the fins on them.
  8. The definition will be higher yes and depending on what your using currently the color depth will be as well, and from my experience unless you have an extremely powerful rig, If you can overclock the monitor to about 70hz (which is very likely) you can easily keep your games around that 70fps range and have a very pleasant experience
  9. It was marketed as a gaming monitor back in the day, It has a decent response time, but is only 60hz refresh. so you have to decide if you are willing to still more than likely deal with screen tearing in exchange for a decent enough size ultra wide. HOWEVER it is an IPS display, which means that if you are running an Nvidia GPU, there is a good chance you may be able to successfully overclock the display to at least 70hz, I've done it before.
  10. The big issue is that Facebook claims to be neutral, and while companies have a right to run their business how they want, Facebook has the most influence on the internet both socially and politically next to Google. So when a platform has that insane an amount of influence over the people, they either need to be truly neutral, or be openly opinionated or biased. It would be like google (more so than they already do) skewing search results all the way in favor of the left and never showing a single unbiased article towards the right and claiming it is utterly neutral. Most people aren't smart enough, researched enough, or care enough to take the things they see politically for more than face value. So bias or favor is fine, It is a right of any person or company, un-admitted or intentionally hidden Bias is not.
  11. Alright I just re inspected all your pictures, the kit you got came with 7 fins, they all go on the bottom of the card, 4 of them go on the chokes (things that say R22) one small black chip right below the chokes, and the two other ones you already have fins on, like so. there is no coincidence that the kit included 7 of them.
  12. Better than nothing mate, I would personally put some of them on the chokes too (the things that say R22, at least that's what I'm assuming those are) and whatever you attached fins to on the top side of the card didn't need them seeing as the stock cooler didn't touch them anyway, pull them off the top and move them around to anything else you can find on the side with the block, otherwise they where extras. READ MY NEXT POST
  13. I'm using a Mad Catz R.A.T. 3 mouse (max dpi of like 2500) thats around 5 years old and has a half dead scroll wheel (jumps by like 4 clicks randomly) A cheap openback Plantronics Rig headphone set, and my keyboard isn't bad, It's a Thermaltake Poseidon ZX, but man is 10 keyless getting old.
  14. Do yourself a favor, get on ebay or amazon and order some small heat fins and some thermal pads that will fit the VRM's Ram etc. your card will last longer. just a fan blowing at bare hardware isn't going to help, because you need some kind of a medium for the heat to transfer into the air. https://www.amazon.com/Omall-Aluminum-Heatsink-Raspberry-Heatsinks/dp/B01715GTNS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469555594&sr=8-2&keywords=ram+heat+fins
  15. If Your computer won't post after fiddling with things inside the case, try unplugging and re seating every connection on your motherboard hard drives GPU etc. coming from the PSU to make sure none are loose, and if there are any connections coming off the PSU that are unused, make sure none of them are grounding to the case anywhere, especially Molex connectors. If I had a dollar for every time I've had a new build or upgrade mysteriously not want to power on or post and it was a pin in a molex connector that was sticking out ever so slightly and touching the case somewhere (tripping the short safe in the power supply) I could buy a new PSU for you.
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