Polyp

Nice one I think I saw that when I was preparing for mine How did you finde this post 2 years later?

You are right these are the ones, but they are enough for acryl glass tubes where you can use a heat gun. For the temperatures where you can bend glass this will melt when not even decompose. I already described it in the upper part.

I have it and I like it very much. Combo of Ports, Pen, Keyboard, Graphics Card.... I can reach the power bottom easily. Fingerprint reader is in the right spot you only need the power bottom to turn it on anyway after the fingerprint reader does the job. I can not really compare the touchpad but it is good but may be not perfect. Pen goes into nice sleeve which is included and why should you not use it then. I mean yes it is not perfect but he is a bit hard on it I think. I do not have the problem with palm rejection yes there is a dead zone but before this video I did not notice because I start in the middle of the pad anyway.... Lisa from MoblieTechReview has a much more positv review.

Hallo mayhems Sorry for the late response. I am not quite sure what you mean because I used the aluminium jigs from monsoon and they worked fine. The problem I experienced was that my burner was not hot enough to heat the glass to a temperature where it is still hot enough when transferred to the jigs. What kind of insulation do you use? Because on this temperature range not everything holds without sticking or burning. May you have some pictures, so it gets clearer what you mean? Would be helpful thanks! Cheers

Sorry it is now more then two weeks ago more like 2 months. But now I was able to cut together some footage of my work. I first intended to do it cause I thought everybody wants some proof that it is real glass anyway. Just be aware of it is an informative video and not really entertaining. Also it's quality is not the best cause I do not have the best equipment. So if your intressted:

Short update: It looks like this now

Yes wood guides are often used you are correct. I though bought the monsoon hardline kit which has aluminium guides. My plan was to preheat them and then bend the glass around. Sadly though my Teclu burner does not heat the borosilicate glass hot enough. To do the bend in one go the glass has to be heated more and with borosilicate glass it only works with a propane and oxygen burner but these burners are a hell of a lot more expensive and you also need the oxygen bottle. That is what I found out now. Therefore I have to bend the glass tube when it is still inside the flame otherwise it cools out to fast.

haha sorry for that great!

Let’s assume, so you have ;)... I never had both of them only had once this really bad nanofluid where the nano particles got stuck in the blocks. Check out JayzTwoCents: At one point he cleans his blocks with toothpaste and toothbrush (around 7min). Maybe that helps against some corrosion but if it is really bad and not on the surface anymore I am not sure what to do.

Thank you. I have the same silicon insert from EKWB but as you said silicon goes to about maximum 300°C. There are the exact numbers for the borosilikatglas: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borosilikatglas I tried again according to the post below. It is getting better but making it wider radius adds difficulty to keep it an uniform bent. But it is very very close to perfect with some very light thinning at the top of the bend. What do you think?

I can only say what I would do to be save. As I understand the loop is new and empty which means filled with air. Because the loop is new there probably will not be a lot of cleaning to do. For coloured fluid just flush it and use a tooth brush for the blocks if needed. I would dry out each component as best as you can especially the ones with metal two reasons for that: Corrosion occurs especially with combination of air and water. Fully submerged metals corrode less because there is less oxygen in water than air. There are always germs and bacteria in air. Therefore giving them a wet and also possible warm enough environment is maybe not so good idea. (does not have to happen) Cheers

Thank you! Maybe if I find one which is malleable enough I give it a try. My concerns are that metal conducts heat way better then glass which probably results in shattering the thing like it did with the sand inside. Also I do not know how easy it is to get that thing out again because glass has no flexibility at all and also the metal has less than rubber. Probably a rod with very thin wire would do. haha could be but if it is consistend would be quiet a look. Yes I got the inspiration from the neon signs. The thing is if I am not misstaken the glass they use has led in it which makes it easier to bend. Thanks I could try that more. It is not so easy to get a consistent curvature this way. I would be happy if you have a link for that. You know Acrylic tubes can still be heated with a heat gun which is way less heat then with a Teclu burner (other kind of burner which gets slightly hotter than a Bunsen burner) which I used for the glass. To form glass you need temperatures above at least 600°C. For Acrylic glass which is a form of plastic the glass transition temperature (temperature where thermoplastics get soft) is about 105°C. That is about 6 times less.

I do not know maybe there is rubber that can withstand a Bunsen burner flame but if so I think it would not come cheap at all. I tried to fill the tubes with very fine sand but the whole thing shattered in to a thousand pieces before even the glass was hot enough for bending. I think the problem was that glass has e very low heat conductivity and the sand kept more heat where the glass already cooled of at one place therefore inflicting thermal stress.

Thanks appreciate that! I know that but it was more about the journey and what can be done than anything. Also I thought I try to use as less 90 degree fittings as I can. Maybe the one form the small rad to the CPU block I could eliminate in the future. Also you get the strait tubes for about 1 Euro a piece if you do not by it overpriced at water cooling shops. Yes the 45° are easier. I am pretty proud of the 90° going from the GPU to the small rad. It is an art and I learned on my own. Doing only glass bends for pc's probably would not earn you enough.

Hey every one, I tried myself in bending borosilicate glass tubes for my loop. As you see some kinking is kind of unavoidable. I tried my best with blowing into the glass tube to avoid any further kinking. This can cause holes in the tube if done wrong. (see pictures below) This should not yet be a tutorial or anything how I exactly did it. I just did not have time jet to do a document or edit a video for that. Maybe I have time in about two weeks. Just some impressions I want to share and see what you think and if there any interest. Please, be nice was hard work and not easy. I did every run in PETG first and every run I tried several times with the glass tubing. Ah yes the reason why I did it: I liked to have as little of any kind of plastic in my loop. Also there should be no staining of the tubes now.