Kitten of the Broccoli

So, it's actually my mother who's paying for it, and I'm just one of the accounts she's added to her Family. Her payment got declined today for unknown reasons, and now the only thing in my Google Play Music library is an album that I uploaded. She gonna pay for it tomorrow, but I just have to know: am I going to have to start from square one as far as my library is concerned, or will all of my music just pop back as soon as Google's paid?

I'm looking to finally replace my Havit Magic Eagle, and currently, the best-looking option is this Razer DesthAdder. Can anyone else confirm if that's a good option or not? Like the title of the post says, my budget for this upgrade is $30.

I just snatched the hard drive out of my old laptop to use as a backup drive(it's gonna be disconnected most of the time), and when I went to format it, I noticed that there's an option to format it as ReFS. I just did 2 minutes of research on it, and I'm not exactly sure if I should bother formatting it as such. So, my question is: should I format it as ReFS? Is there a benefit to doing it?

Well, me and my friend are gonna be doing some of those online custom maps, so if you suddenly get the urge to actually play the game...

I'm still not 100% sure about what the rules are on this site regarding swearing, so I just keep it clean. Anyway, do you want in?

Maybe some Heists, maybe just some dinking around.

We're playing on PC, and we can do voice chat over Discord. I only have the SocialClub version of the game, so add me on SC: fireclaw316

Thanks. I just settled for 125 125 125 on the Hilight because it matches my gray color scheme.

Do you know what the default values are?

I was messing around with my theme settings, and ended up changing the shade of blue you get when you highlight the text in Chrome's URL bar. I changed my regular color under Personalization back to what I had it at before, but the blue is still the wrong shade. I installed some other custom themes as an experiment, and found that the color of the highlighted URL bar is affected by the Windows themes. So, how do I change it manually? Obviously this isn't a life-or-death, "my computer is gonna blow up if I don't fix this" kind of issue, but it's really bugging me because I've had it at that other shade of blue for a long time.

Have you tried not using Prime95? From what I hear, P95 is what you use when your hardware has been bad and you want to punish it. AKA it puts such a high load on the hardware that overheating can occur even when you have adequate cooling. Using pretty much any other benchmarking software will be better.

I'm encoding some H.264 files into Cineform using the default "12-bit with Alpha" profile, and for some reason, despite having CUDA set as the renderer, my GPU monitor is saying that my graphics card is only at 5% usage. Is there any other way I can force Adobe Media Encoder to use my GPU more, or is this something that I just have to deal with? Relevant computer specs: Xeon E3-1231v3 GTX 970 STRIX OC 16GB RAM Adobe Media Encoder CC 2015

I have a Samsung PM851, and Windows 10 Pro. Because I have Pro, I can obviously just use BitLocker to encrypt my drive, [brush hands], problem solved. However, I'm not 100% sure BitLocker is the only option available to me: On the Amazon product page for my specific drive, it mentions stuff about my drive being an SED and it,"...applies 256-bit AES hardware-based data encryption automatically..." but I'm not exactly sure if I should take that at face value. I know that with the 850 EVO, you have to ENABLE encryption, and I can only assume it's the same for this drive as well. Is there some sort of Samsung software I have to download or something? Or should I just go ahead and use BitLocker? I'd prefer to use whichever hinders performance the least, seeing as I'm not exactly carrying around nuclear launch codes, and I'm pretty sure whoever steals my laptop will just end up wiping it.

I'm looking for GOOD 1080p IPS screens that can generally be found for under $100 on placed like eBay. For instance, my current main monitor is an LG 22MP56HQ-P. I've had it for over a year now, and it only cost me $75. I'm thinking of buying another one off of an eBay seller who's selling theirs for about the same price. I'm just asking if anyone has any ideas for better monitors that are also equivalently-priced. They don't have to be as good when it comes to color reproduction as the 22MP56(72% color gamut), as whatever I'm getting will be used as a secondary monitor.

I have the ASUS STRIX OC version, and I'm finally getting around to overclocking it. My temps are in the low 70s, and I don't think I'll need to do any overvolting, but I'm just curious about the max safe temperatures for this card.

I have an ASUS Z97-A and an ASUS GTX 970 STRIX OC card. I want to be able to increase the speed of the fan closest to the card when it gets too hot, but the only available options for temperature sources are literally everything BUT the GPU, despite the fact that AI Suite is monitoring it. Is there any way I can get around this?

I've tried again and again to shift over to PS from Krita for digital art, but I have one major issue: Photoshop's controls are just complete garbage compared to Krita's. In Krita, if I want to zoom in or out, all I have to do is press the corresponding key. In PS, I have to hold down my designated "Zoom" key, and then use my stylus to zoom in or out the desired amount. And it's pretty much the same thing with rotation: in Krita, I can just use a single key to instantly rotate the canvas 15 degrees to the left, but in Photoshop, it requires that I hold down a key while using my stylus again! I have tried countless time to fine-tune PS's shortcuts, but I just can't get used to it. So, is there any way I can emulate Krita's controls in Photoshop? Like, does Photoshop already have built-in functionality for rotating the canvas a certain number of degrees?

I'm currently looking at 2 different gigabit switches on Newegg: the NETGEAR GS305, and the NETGEAR GS105. I already have an FS105, but I need to be able to transfer files between the computers on my home network at a speed faster than 100Mbps. So, is there any reason I should avoid getting the GS305 in favor of the GS105? Like I said, this is for my home network, thus I don't need any super-professional features.

I have an LG 22MP65, and I've managed to get it to a max refresh rate of 74Hz from 60Hz. However, one thing I immediately noticed is that my colors become over-saturated to the point where I don't have it enabled unless I'm gaming. I've only been running this OC since 2 hours ago, and now I'm wondering: what are the dangers of having an overclock like this, and what are the chances that I'll actually experience any other problems beyond the aforementioned over-saturation?

I have a Discord group of you wanna join. I'm up for playing right now, and I might be able to get some of my friends to play with us. https://discord.gg/EDUvHFN

Oh my gosh I'm such an idiot... The reason I'm seeing a different than usual IP address is because I have Google Data Saver installed in Chrome. I opened WhatsmyIP.org into Edge, and it's showing me the correct IP.

OK, so, taking Jed's advice, I make Speedtest ping off of the closest server to me, Miami, and I'm now getting the speeds I'm supposed to. I think the issues I've been having have only been happening with one website. However, when I go and use Xfinity's own speed test utility, that's where I'm getting the 30Mpbs down, even when I set the location to Miami.

I live in Florida, first off, and I have Xfinity. I unplugged my modem last night, and only plugged it back in an hour ago. I immediately noticed that everything has been taking FOREVER to load. So, naturally, I go to Speedtest.net and see if there's anything wrong on my side. As soon as it loads up, ST tells me that my IP is coming from somewhere in California! For reference, the IP address I'm supposed to have starts with 174, while this new one starts with 66. I tried restarting my router, but it's still not fixed. And no, I don't have any VPNs active, or even installed. I've checked on my desktop, laptop, and even my phone, and all are giving me the IP from California. Is there just something wrong at Comcast or something? I'm supposed to be getting 100Mbps download speeds, but I'm barely breaking 30 right now.

OK, forget everything I just asked. Even though I can stream over the internet, I just remembered that I had to setup port-forwarding to get that feature to work in the first place! So, basically, it NEVER goes through any NVIDIA servers(that I know of), and it's all hosted on my desktop, using NVIDIA software.

I have the misfortune of being in one of the areas where Comcast just added their retarded 1TB data cap. I've been streaming Life is Strange to my laptop from my desktop using NVIDIA GameStream for the last hour now, when it just hit me: I know that GameStream works over the internet if I was at, say, my grandma's house or something, and right now, I'm streaming 1080p60fps gameplay. However, I AM streaming this all over my home network. Is my stream going through NVIDIA's servers or something despite this? I'm not exactly able to test this out by disconnecting the router from the modem right now, and I really want to know if I'm driving up my data usage by choosing to stream a desktop game while I lay on my bed.