Kitten of the Broccoli

So, my Windows 10 computer (Aorus B450 Elite V2, Ryzen 3600, 16GB Corsair Vengeance RAM, RTX 2070, Samsung 970 Evo M.2 1TB) just randomly decided to restart earlier and remained on the Aorus Windows loading screen for almost 15 minutes before I decided to power cycle it. Now, I know that probably wasn't the smartest course of action, but my computer is no stranger to boot loops and power cycling usually works. And either way, I had no reason to believe the computer was updating or doing anything like that. Anyway, now when I boot up the computer, it still just sticks on the Windows loading screen with the Aorus logo. I've tried power cycling it 3 times to get to Automatic Repair, but after seeing the Automatic Repair text pop up, the screen shortly becomes void of anything but the Windows loading wheel and it never actually continues on to the repairs. Luckily, I have both Windows 10 and Ubuntu USB drives, but while the computer loads into Ubuntu no problem (I can even access my boot drive just fine, and I can't find any evidence of corruption) it refuses to load the Windows 10 USB. All that happens is that the Windows 10 logo pops up with the loading wheel for a few seconds, then fades away, and gets stuck on a black screen until I restart my computer. So, what the heck? I get that maybe I interrupted Windows during an update and that's why I can't boot into my install, but why wouldn't my computer be able to load the USB? I even made another one using my backup PC in case maybe my usual Windows USB got corrupted or something, but even it's not working. I'm honestly at my wit's end. I've never had this happen. I've tried switching BIOS legacy mode off and on again but it doesn't appear to be doing anything. Does anyone have any ideas?

So, to make a long story short, I have a first-gen HTC Vive with the wireless kit, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to play with it in the living room without having to move my computer out of my bedroom every time. I've looked at getting an extension cable for the WiGig antenna, but everyone online says that, even if I were to get a good-quality cable, I can really only hope to get a about 6.5 feet max before the signal starts getting too degraded for the PCIe WiGig card to detect anything. So alternatively, I've been looking at getting a 1x to 16x PCIe riser card like this and giving it a go with a 20ft male-to-male USB 3.0 cable (as opposed to the ~2ft long one they tend to come with). I'll admit, it sounds like a very sketchy plan, but enough people on Reddit have reported success for me to be willing to try it out for myself. The part I'm hung up on though is that I don't know how I'm going to power the riser card once it's 20 feet away from my computer and power supply. From what I've seen, molex and 6-pin PCIe connectors are the most common standards for powering these things, and just about every one comes with a SATA to 6-pin or SATA to molex adapter respectively. But short of literally just buying a used PSU off someone on OfferUp and jumping the 20-pin connector to take advantage of its molexes or 6-pins, I'm stumped as to how to deliver power via either of those standards. I've found some wall-to-molex power supplies like this on a few different websites, but none of them really inspire a lot of confidence in me, especially once I start sorting the reviews by most critical. And the ones I've seen that go wall-to-SATA weren't much better. So, does anybody have any pointers as to what I should try? The Vive WiGig card doesn't need a whole lot of power to function, but I A. don't want to buy a new one because I trusted a sketchy non-standard power supply, and B. don't want to just have a whole entire computer power supply just hanging out in the living room or hallway for no other reason than to power a little PCIe riser if I can help it.

That's the thing, there is no pin. It's completely unlocked. She just wants to reset it because every time she tries to update it, it asks for her Apple login.

My girlfriend has an iPad that is linked to an Apple account that she no longer as access to. The device itself doesn't have a passcode, but she can't back it up or log out of iCloud or even update it because she forgot the password for the account, and Apple can't help her reset it because it's linked with a phone number she no longer has. So, people on the internet are saying to restore it with iTunes and DFU/Recovery mode, but I'm concerned that it'll still demand the login after restoring (I don't know much about iDevices anymore, but I know this is a thing that happens sometimes). So, is iTunes and DFU mode the way to go, or are we out of luck unless she can remember the password?

I've got fresh batteries in it. It's just refusing to go into wireless pairing.

I just got an Xbox One controller that I have verified works with Bluetooth by connecting it to my phone. However, when I tried to connect it to my computer's Bluetooth, the controller instantly turned itself off, and now when I hold the Xbox button, it blinks once and then does nothing. My PC's Bluetooth adapter is 4.0, I made sure of that when I bought it, so I have no idea what I could have done. When I connect the controller via USB, it works just fine. But now I can't even connect it to my phone because it refuses to go into pairing mode.

I just got a pair of HD 599s, and I'm just wondering if I'd be likely to notice better sound if I had them connected to a dedicated amp rather than my desktop's front headphone jack. They already sound noticeably better than my Status Audio CB-1s, but I just want to ensure I'm getting the most out of them. The motherboard I'm using is the ROG STRIX B350-F Gaming board from ASUS, if that's relevant in any way.

Thanks guys

I just got done grieving the loss of my Aukey EP-B4's, and I'm ready to move on to something new. I've tried the Mpow Flame earbuds, but the audio quality is garbage in my opinion. Can anyone suggest bluetooth earbuds that sound comparable to Apple Earpods (or better) and cost around $50 or less?

Just don't even bother with it. PayPal will probably refund you your money, yes, but there's no point in even engaging with these scammers because it's just going to be a hassle for you. The fact of the matter is that nobody is going to be selling Switches for such a low price when everyone else is selling them for at LEAST $150-$200.

I'm assuming you're new to eBay. You have to use some common sense when buying. When something normally goes for a few hundreds of dollars new, then how is it that someone can possibly sell so many for such a low price?

I, personally, don't trust people who only use stock photos in their eBay listings. Not to mention that that's an extraordinarily and suspiciously low price for a Switch.

That thing the one guy said about getting black screens and only being able to fix it is by physically cutting power from the system makes me even more certain that it's a problem specific to this motherboard and that I should just get a new(different) one.

I'll keep AI Suite disabled, but I did have to clear CMOS after the trying to overclock and the only options that I have changed since are DOCP and certain options relating to networking.

It was, then when my computer started locking up, I disabled it, but when it still kept doing it, I re-enabled it.

I don't have the overclocked applied right now, though. That's the issue. It does this even when running completely stock.

After thinking back on it, I DID start having this issue while I was overclocking about a week and a half ago. Also, I already DID update the BIOS, and when I go to try to do it again, it tells me that I'm on the latest version already.

My keyboard and mouse are connected to the back, and they both lose power.

Greeeeeeeat...

Does it mean anything that I stress tested the RAM and it didn't crash?

My issue with my computer is fully explained here: From what I can find out, it's likely the power supply is causing my computer to crash the way it is, but nowhere else am I able to find anyone recounting how their computer screens go black and the power and reset buttons stop working. Can anyone else confirm this theory?

Update: I used Aida64 and Kombustor to stress the CPU, GPU, and RAM, and the computer didn't do anything out of the ordinary. My RAM got filled up to 95% capacity, and the CPU and GPU both were at full load for over 5 minutes. But, then I left the room for 15 minutes, leaving the computer at idle, Discord being the only app I had open, and when I came back, nothing was working again. None of my USB devices were getting power, and again, the power and reset buttons weren't working. At first I thought maybe I was somehow overloading my power supply, but according to my UPS, even at load, I'm only drawing 300w(my PSU is rated for 650w), and that's also taking my 3 monitors into account. At idle, I'm drawing just over 100w.

My build is an R5 1600X, ASUS ROG B350-F board, Corsairs H150i Pro watercooler, 16GB(2x8GB) Corsair Vengeance LPX RAM, ASUS GTX 1070 STRIX GPU, EVGA SuperNova 650G and an ADATA SP550 SSD. Recently, my computer has started randomly going brain dead; screens go black, power and reset buttons stop working, and the only way to restart the computer back into working normally is by switching the power supply off and then back on again. There don't appear to be any patterns preceding these blackouts, so I'm stumped as to what it could be. My system isn't overclocked, and it does this when I'm just watching YouTube, but won't even stumble after I've been gaming for over an hour(but it still does it while I'm gaming, though).

I just installed a Corsair H150i PRO onto my ASUS B350-F motherboard, and right off the bat I can tell there are some BIOS settings in need of tweaking. Firstly, how do I disable the CPU_Fan error? I really don't want to have to resort to plugging one of the case fans into the header because that just seems really janky. Second, do I need to have the AIO-PUMP Control under Q-Fan Configuration enabled(set to Auto)? Or will the whole thing be fine when I setup Corsair Link in Windows? Edit: I fixed the CPU Fan Error, but I still want to know if that second option needs to be changed.

I just happen to have a GTX 550 Ti lying around, and I'm wondering if I could put it in my current system alongside my GTX 1070 and have it do anything practical.