Hasle

Member
  • Content count

    190
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

  • check
    Agree 17
  • info_outline
    Informative 2
  • tag_faces
    Funny 26
  • thumb_up
    Thumbs Up 138
  • thumb_up
    Likes (Old) 104

Awards


This user doesn't have any awards

3 Followers

About Hasle

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday 1986-08-26

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-6700K @ 4.2 GHz
  • Motherboard
    EVGA Z170 Stinger
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 32GB (2x16GB)
  • GPU
    nVidia Titan X (Pascal) 12GB G5X
  • Case
    NZXT Manta (White)
  • Storage
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 256GB / Samsung SSD 850 EVO 1TB
  • PSU
    Corsair HX850i
  • Display(s)
    ASUS Rog Swift PG278Q
  • Cooling
    Custom hardline setup.
  • Keyboard
    Corsair Vengeance K70 RGB "Sails" (MX Reds, white Ducky caps)
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Proteus Core
  • Sound
    Edifier Luna Eclipse 2.0 (Orange) / Audioengine D1 DAC / ATH-M50X
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home 64-bit

Contact Methods

  • Twitter
    @nohasslemods
  • Steam
    retroprosa

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Denmark
  • Interests
    Building computer systems, casemodding, watercooling, gaming and cars.
  • Occupation
    Parts Manager at a Renault dealership.

Recent Profile Visitors

851 profile views
  1. Why would he put those lovely pictures in a spoiler tag? Build looks awesome!
  2. There's also the Logitech G920 if you want a wheel that looks slightly cleaner than the G29 - you miss out on a few of the buttons, and the shift light, but that's a bit of a gimmick anyway, and not that usable. I just got one the other day, and I'm quite enjoying it - I also play ETS2 and ATS, Forza 6 and Horizon, etc. I found the brake pedal way too hard though, to the point where you can't achieve 100% brake pressure even when applying your entire body weight. That can be remedied quite easily by removing or trimming the little rubber stopper in the pedal though:
  3. Not sure how the prices are on the Corsair 760T at the moment, but that's probably the case I've enjoyed working in the most. The build quality is awesome, everything's laid out neatly, and the insides are very accessible with the hinged doors.
  4. Not sure if this is the right place for it, but I felt the need to flaunt my stupidity somewhere. Prior to picking up my new Logitech G920 wheel and pedal set yesterday, I had read that the brake pedal was overly stiff, and that there was an easy fix for this - removing a small rubber stop inside the pedal spring. I found a Youtube video explaining the process, so the first thing I did when I unpacked my new pedals, was to rip them apart. Simple enough. What could possibly go wrong? (Everything) While assembling the pedal housing again, after removing the rubber stop, two of the screws had a bit of resistance to them, but I didn't think much of it. When I plugged the pedals into the wheel however, the force feedback motor just started humming and vibrating violently. Thankfully I have enough insight to realize that it was probably something I had done to mess them up. Opened them up again and: Yeah, not in one, but in two places. Impressive. So in stead of spending time getting to grips with the wheel, and having a blast, I had a blast soldering these three immensely thin copper wires. All good again, and working as intended. Just wanted to share in case someone here has a set of these, and maybe didn't know about the mod - now you know how it ISN'T done. The mod does wonders to the feel of the brake, so totally recommended - I actually cut the bumper stop in half - removing it entirely will make the pedal feel like the clutch, but it'll hit 100% braking before bottoming out.
  5. That depends on how much of an issue it is to you. Is it even that noticeable in normal conditions - when not in a pitch black room with a black background? I'd wager that all high-spec IPS monitors with the very thin bezels will have back light bleed around the edges to some degree. Some probably worse than others, but they all have it. So either go for an old fashioned TN panel in stead, or learn to live with it, and focus on all the benefits you get - the lovely thin bezel, amazing colors and such.
  6. Hmm. How about the setting just below - "Virtual Reality pre-rendered frames" - try setting it to 1 if it isn't already?
  7. I had the same issue on a similar setup - 6700K, Titan X Pascal and a PG278Q as well. What fixed it for me, was forcing Vsync off in the NVIDIA Control Panel as shown below. In one of the recent driver updates, they changed the way that setting behaves, so if it's set to "Used the 3D application setting" it might force Vsync even though it shouldn't, conflicting with G-sync. Try setting it to "Off", rebooting, and giving Rocket League a try again:
  8. Thanks! There's a link for the build log in my signature if you want all the juicy details, but in rough numbers: 240 rad in the top, 280 in front, EK D5 PWM pump, EK block on the Titan and CPU, Primochill reservoir. The airflow is very restricted, as you might have guessed, and naturally the temps suffer somewhat. There's not really any headroom for beneficial overclocking with a case like this, at least not if you want to keep your fans at lower speeds. The top exhaust is the main culprit, so I'll give you temps on and off: Top panel on: Idle = 35C, Heavy'ish load (Witcher III, GTA V, Wildlands, etc.) = 70-75C Top Panel off: Idle = 30C Heavy'ish load = 60-65C I'll get around to doing a cutout in the top panel of some sorts at some point, I just need to find a solution that looks half way decent.
  9. A few shots of the setup, before I get started on redoing the desk cable management - everything's undone at the moment. Will post new pictures when everything's neat and tucked away. Specs are as follows: CPU Intel Core i7-6700K Motherboard EVGA Z170 Stinger RAM Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 32GB (2x16GB) clad in EK Monarch heatsinks GPU nVidia Titan X (Pascal) 12GB G5X Case NZXT Manta (White) Storage Samsung SSD 850 EVO 256GB / Samsung SSD 850 EVO 1TB PSU Corsair HX850i Display(s) ASUS Rog Swift PG278Q / ASUS 27" 1080p VN278H Cooling EK blocks, pump and rads with Bitspower fittings. Keyboard Corsair Vengeance K70 RGB "Sails" (MX Reds, white Ducky caps) Mouse Logitech G502 Proteus Core Controller SCUF Hybrid 360 Sound Edifier Luna Eclipse 2.0 (Orange) / Audioengine D1 DAC / ATH-M50X
  10. The reason they're so keen on shutting down OpenIV specifically, is because it allows people to gain access to Online-only DLC content in Single Player. That way, people can enjoy the content without spending hours upon hours grinding repetitive missions in Online, and more to the point - without being presented with a dozed different ways of speeding up said acquisition, namely by purchasing Shark Cards. When players access the content, without having micro transactions waved under their noses, T2 are potentially losing money in a way. That's what they want to stop. Not "hackers". The only people affected by the ban, are people enjoying their single player mods and content creators (Twitch-streamers, YouTubers) playing mods like LCPDFR, which is - I mean - WAS quite entertaining. EDIT: The current 50% sale on V is kinda pathetic - seems like damage control, no? I bet they wouldn't have even put it on sale, if not for the OpenIV debacle, and the poor ratings.
  11. Pretty sure they're Argon Octave 5. I used to have the same pair.
  12. *when the final build looks better than the renders* It's been such a pleasure following this project from day one. The result is beyond fantastic! PS. You need some new speakers bro. Badly!
  13. My initial idea was actually going parallel loop, but the ports on the CPU and GPU block didn't line up quite right, and I knew it would bug the hell out of me if the runs weren't straight. I spent weeks pondering how to do the loop, and settled on this solution, as I liked the simplicity of it - especially the "stealth" fittings on the GPU, hiding the tubing under the card, mimicked by the upward-facing fittings on the CPU block. Your idea with feeding the ATX cable through the acrylic plate is ingenious - why didn't I think of that? Would have looked so awesome! The plate was a bit of an afterthought in the final stages of assembly, so it actually never crossed my mind. Thanks for the kind words everyone! There a matter I'd like to discuss a bit, regarding... #temps'n'overclocking Before I chose the Manta for the project, I did hear talk about its relatively limited ability to dissipate heat, but figured I would be in the clear with just the four fans, and was willing to sacrifice some overclocking for the design of the case. After doing the initial light benchmarking, I jumped straight into overclocking, but soon realized that there wasn't much leeway with the way I had things set up, and soon decided to stick to stock values, to have a more silent system. My CPU idle temps are good, hovering around 28-31C, and a GPU temp around 26C, with a practically silent system - very low fan RPM, and the pump speed at around 70%. But as soon as I delve into games that put a heavy toll on my system, like my heavily modded SweetFX-induced and beyond-Ultra set Witcher 3, things get quite toasty with CPU temps hovering around 68-71C spiking up to 80C if I mess around in nVidia Ansel too much, but GPU temps staying in the low end around 50C as the highest I've seen - maybe there's some headroom here for some light GPU overclocking, but that would again affect the CPU temp, so I'll just leave it. But again, it's a very compact system - most of the airflow is restricted on either side - small indirect air in- and outlets on the front and top of the case, and the reservoir, pump and cables hindering the airflow through the front radiator. Just something to keep in mind if anyone here's thinking about investing in a Manta. I think I'll try installing a slim 120mm fan as rear exhaust, and try to see if that helps circulate the air a bit better.