notenoughtv

You plan on doing a custom loop?

Man, do yourself a favor and go for white LEDs. It makes everything shine for themselves instead of drowning the case in one color. I personally use cheap LED strips from ebay and do the wiring myself Here's a picture of how my build looked before I started the upgrade The strip was 8 dollars for the 5 meters from china, a 3 dollar switch from performance PCs and some fan wiring and plugged into a fan header Then I made a hole on one of the 5.25'' bay covers for the switch

I ordered black acetal tops for the CPU Block and the motherboard ones. Fast shipping would have almost doubled the cost so it will take about a month to arrive, hopefully less.

This looks amazing, super compact and clean

This is all different kinds of crazy

I also think it looks better because I get to see the GPU block instead of the PCB or a backplate

The caselabs sm8 is reversible so you can choose which way you want it. The only reason for it to be reversed is that the PC sits on a table to the left of my desk so in a regular setup I wouldn{t be able to see the window

A while ago I decided to upgrade my first watercooling loop for one with acrilic tubing. A week ago I received the last package of products I needed, or so I thought so. I forgot to order the mounting clamps for the reservoir. The Bitspower reservoir I ordered for the first time I built the system didn't come with any because I got the pump mod/res combo. Anyway, since I have to pay at least 45 dollars shipping for anything I ordered an XSPC Photon 270 because the Bitspower res already has some scratches just from handling it. It takes about 3 weeks for any package from Performance PCs to get to me (mostly because of customs). So since I was already about a month and a half just using my laptop as my main computer, I decided to ghetto mount the res with zip ties so I coould at least use my computer. The time I have to wait for the res to arrive inspired me to write up a build log, or the end part of one at least and since I have a half decent camera now, there is no reason not to write one. First off, the specs. Case: Caselabs SM8 Processor: Intel Core i7 3770K GPU: AMD R9 290 4GB RAM: 2x8GB Kingston HyperX Fury Motherboard: Asus Maximus V Formula PSU: Seasonic 850W X Series 80 Plus Gold SSD: Corsair GS 180GB (for now) HDD: 2TB Seagate (not sure which one, it came out of a enclosed drive), 500GB WD Caviar Black inside a USB 3 enclosure for steam. Peripherals and others. CM Storm Quickfire Logitech G602 Audioengine A2 Speakers 21" LG 1080p IPS monitor 27" Qnix 1440p monitor Ebay chinese white LED Strip and some switch I bought from PPCS White LED Delrin Vandal resistant Switch to replace the stock blue one. Watercooling Parts. EK Supremacy Plexi Nickel Block (Considering a full nickel top for the block) EK Maximus V Formula Plexi Full Motherboard Block Koolance VID-AR290X Water Block Phobya 60mm 480mm & 360mm rads Swiftech D5 Pump Bitspower Pump upgrade kit XSPC Photon 270 reservoir Monsoon Hardline Economy Fittings, White EK CSQ Black Chrome fittings for the bottom part 6x Bitfenix Spectre Pro PWM White 3x Bitfenix Spectre Pro White LED Swiftech 8 way PWM splitter Monsoon Pro bender kit from PPCS Monsoon Hardline 16mm acrylic tube One piece of acrylic to cover the PSU and pump and one for the IO Now the pictures. This is what it looked like with the soft tubing. I used to have an NZXT Hue. This is how the white light from it looked This is how the 8 dollars for the 5 meters of LED strip from ebay looked (Didn't use 5 meters for the case) For the current build. The loop is only running on the 480 rad currently. I have to drain it soon so I didn't bother using the 360 too. Most of the acrylic is already bent to shape, the only piece left to bend is the one from the chipset to the res, when it arrives I'll get that done. The acrylic bending kit And this happened while bending so I had to order a new one with my reservoir I put 4 LED strips behind the motherboard tray to light under it, that's why the audio PCB separation looks yellow. I changed the PSU fan for the PWM controlled Bitfenix fan, the stock one was too loud. This fan is plugged in and controlled by the motherboard This acrilic piece will cover the IO, I have to figure out how I will stick it in place This one will cover the PSU and pump These will go on the piece of acrilic This is how it looks now. Yellow redline haha, I need to see what I do with this. The mess in the back The front Things I would like. A way to dim the interior lighting. The LED strip is running of one of the fan headers on the Swiftech splitters, I could use a 7v adapter to dim the lights but I would like a way to have more control over it I need to think of a nice way to cover the honeycomb mesh next to the rear IO. Too much light bleeds through and it annoys me. The case lighting makes the underglow of the motherboard barely notisable. Both are currently on the same switch. I think I will wire the underglow permanently to the PSU

My favourite thing is that the G3 basically fixes every complaint I have of my G2. Removable back and battery, the back surface and who doesn't want a TV antenna on their cellphone

Looks great. Do you make every 3D render yourself or is there a website where you can get renders of hardware?

You should consider getting a white led strip to light up you case, It brings out the beauty of build better than any color led could

Love the speaker setup and good thing that the Beats by Dre branding is gone

I would go the root way. I used to have a Galaxy Note 2 and didn't enjoy touchwiz a whole bunch. So the minute the CyanogenMod Installer came out I jumped on it. It made the experience a lot better. Now I have a LG G2 and recently rooted it and flashed CM 11 on it. It seems like a totally different device, big improvement. Even for someone like you, who is running stock android I would recommend going for CyanogenMod, it gives you more options on what you can do with your device and the ability to modify the toggles, close all running apps at the same time. I mention those two, because for me, this are the ones that make the most difference in everyday use. I hope this helps somewhat

Definitely grippier, not sticky though Nothing so far Thanks

A few weeks ago I bought some cans of black plasti dip for the wheels on my car and got some leftover so I decided to dip the shiny bezels on my LG 21'' and Qnix 27'' monitors. Today it ocurred to me that I could use the Plasti Dip on the fingerprint magnet that is the back of the LG G2, so I googled to see how easy it was to remove the back cover and as it turned out, it is a piece of cake. One other advantage of doing this is that my phone kept falling from my pocket when I got into my car because it was so slippery, now thanks to the rubber nature of plasti dip that shouldn't happen anymore. Here is the video I found on how to remove the back Here is the phone disassembled The only prep you need is to clean the backplate. Use rubbing alcohol, the same you would use to clean thermal paste. It is better to use alcohol rather than water because it evaporates quickly and the surface has to be perfectly dry or you will ruin the finish. Use gloves if you have any. Spray in different angles on every coat to cover every spot, but within each coat maintain the distance constant (15 cms aprox) IMPORTANT: Go easy on each coat, you don't want any buildup or textures. And take 10 to 15 minutes after the first coat, an 8 to ten on the following ones. First I put a couple of match boxes to have the backplate elevated. You don't want the edges of the backplate making contact with anything because the plasti dip will stick to both. And if you have a respirator it would be ideal. Either way you need a ventilated area. The pictures shown are of the coats just as they are applied. That's why it looks wet Here is the 1st coat 2nd coat 3rd coat 3rd coat dry 4th coat 4th coat dry 5th and final coat 5th coat dry After the last coat leave it dry for about 40 mins before you put it back on the phone. Final result Here you can see the finish on my monitors. That's five coats if I recall correctly. http://i.imgur.com/MtHO0vD.jpg Hope you enjoyed this post and you can also "fix" the shiny back on your phone.

iRacing The Dirt series (more arcade) rFactor2 Asetto Corsa Project C.A.R.S.

Why, there are so many good PC racing games and simulators

It exists already

The steering wheel is probably the worst place on the dash to install a camera, it would probably just work for guys angry because they just lost a 1/4 mile

That's weird. I can use the mobile theme in my phone and the dark theme on my desktop

It would be entertaining to watch him try and switch to OSX for a couple of weeks

It is true. If your country is not listed in the site it doesn't matter, if you have a paypal account you can buy from them. Remember it has to be on the Canadian NCIX site. I bought a Keyboard from them once. It arrived fast and in perfect condition but on most cases is not worth it, shipping costs and import taxes and any other additional fee might make it not a good choice, especially if you are buying something big As I said, you can buy from them if you have a Paypal account. My country wasn't listed on their site either. You will get the shipping price at Paypal's checkout

That's what I was worried it would be. I believe the drive is no older than 6 months so he will have to RMA it

Stock cooler

A friend of mine just wsent me this clip of a noise his computer is making, I can't go and look at it now so this is all the information I have, I believe he has a Core i3, an MSI H61 motherboard and a nvidia 640 graphics card (I know, not the best choice in hardware) Here's the clip I got. http://youtu.be/aV4ahn5SdVs It sound really familiar but I can't put my finger on it.