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fishymamba

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Posts posted by fishymamba

  1. On 11/18/2021 at 10:31 PM, staticdoestech said:

    Am I reading this correctly? You had to BEND your ram?

    Wow, did not expected to be quoted from a post I made 8 years ago. I do remember having to bend the RAM to the side a tiny bit to get the cooler to fit. Worked fine for the 10 years I used the system. I got low profile RAM for my current computer so I didn't have to employ the same method.

  2. 20 hours ago, rikitikitavi said:

    Have browns from Cherry and Gateron, nothing special, very similar in feel. Currently using Zilents v2 (from Zeal) - considered silent and tactile. So far they are much better in my opinion. However they start with 62g, so you might not like them if you prefer lighter actuation force.

    I've read a lot of good things about the Zilents, but I can't seem to find a keyboard prebuilt with them that's in stock. I am pretty handy at soldering so if I don't like the switches I end up getting, I could just solder in the Zilents myself.

     

    17 hours ago, rikitikitavi said:

    https://www.keychron.com/collections/keyboard - variety of options including dif. switches and options for hot swappable boards.

     

    Otherwise I suggest checking out orholinear keyboards like OLKB Preonic. Customizability with layering and grid layout make them great - so NumPad is basically a button away.

     

     

    Haven't heard about keychron before. The only one I like the look of is the C2, and they do have it available with browns!

     

    I really don't think I could get used to non traditional keyboard layouts. It will take me quiet a while to switch. Maybe one day I'll try one out, but not now.

    6 hours ago, IPD said:

    I have that exact same Ducky One 2 with MX Silent Reds.  Guess I got lucky.  Love it.  My only quibbles:

     

    -Can't overlap RGB lighting macros over each other.  (But it has per-key lighting and almost limitless colorization options other than that.)

     

    -Can't set the color of the Numlock/Capslock Scrolllock lights--they're going to be bright white regardless

     

    -Down Arrow for capslock.  No other font/options available

     

    ---

     

    Personally, the MK looks very similar to Ducky, and since it's in stock with MX browns (and you don't care about RGB, only backlight)--I'd go that route.  If RGB is important, the One 2 is worth the upgrade--but you'd have to wait.  Also, consider keycap sets if you prefer fonts that aren't like the Glorious or have look/texture that suits you better.  Inverse pudding keycaps are probably an example of having to do "aftermarket".

     

    P.S.

    Leopold is more of a "why wouldn't i just spend the $10-20 extra and get a One 2 and be able to set solid color mood lighting....

    I didn't even see the down arrow for caps lock till you mentioned it! That might annoy me a little bit, but its way better than the whole keyboard being a bad font like the Glorious. I have been looking at aftermarket keycaps, but I want to get a keyboard, try out the switches, and then get some.

     

    From what I've seen online the MK is manufacture by Ducky and has a ducky PCB inside. I think its based on the original One and not the One 2. With the price difference being only $30, I might just go for the Ducky. Maybe one day I'll want a bit more color on my desk.

     

    I only have the Leopold on my list since supposedly the keyboard is higher quality, but I have never used one so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ .

    Varmillo is another brand I was looking at, but I can't find any in stock with brown switches.

  3. After many years with my trusty Corsair K90 I've recently been wanting to get a more standardish keyboard without the "gamer" aesthetic. It also takes up a bit too much room on my desk because of the 18 G keys which I rarely use.

    My only requirements:

    - 100% layout, dedicated volume/media keys are a plus

    - Tactile, non clicky switches. My K90 has cherry Reds, and I also have another keyboard with blues. Really like the feel of the blues, but not the clicking

    - Backlight is a plus, but not necessary. Don't need RGB, just a white backlight would be fine.

     

    So far I've narrowed it down to:

     

    -MK Night Typist : https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4295

    From what I've read it is manufactured by ducky, but not many reviews that I can find.

    -Ducky One 2 RGB : https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4283

    Only available with Kailh brown switches at the moment, reviews for the switches seem fine. But I've never tried any Kailh switches

    -Leopold FC900R: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=5658

    Most basic keyboard, but supposedly very high quality.

    -Glorious GMMK: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=5029

    Comes with gateron switches, never used them so no idea how they compare with cherries. Also the font on the keys is kinda ehhh to me.

     

    Anyone have one of these and how has it been for you? Anyone have any experience with the kailh and gateron browns and how do they compare to cherry switches? Any other recommendations? I'm willing to spend a little bit more if its worth it.

     

     

  4. 15 hours ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:

    if you are ok with soldering then i reccomend buying a molex powered fan hub and soldering it to a boost converter so you can have the boost converter control the fan speeds via voltage, though you will need a multimeter to monitor the fan volts cause im pretty sure most fans die around 30v, safe volt for fan overvolt is prob around 17-20v for dailying most fans

    I do have a couple of boost converters, but I think I will see how well the fans work at 12v before going the boost converter route. IDK if I want a cheap boost converter inside my PC, I've had a couple catastrophically fail on me.

  5. 9 minutes ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:

    Just buy another kaze flex

     

    You could hook em up to the 24 pin mb connector or a boost converter but thats not something you wanna do unless you dont give a sht about asthetics and like diy ing sht like me cause its gonna be very messy

    I don't care about aesthetics (I think most people would cringe tearing apart a 3080 strix), but I want the GPU to control the fan speeds so I'm going to either get a GPU fan adapter or solder the fans directly to the PCB.

  6. Hey guys! I am wanting to do a deshroud on my 3080 and I was wondering about what fan to use.

     

    I already have a spare scythe kaze 120mm fan and my first option would be to get another one. The only problem is that the kaze has a max speed of only 1200 rpm and I'm not sure if that'll be enough to cool the 3080. On the plus side the fan is super quiet at it's max rpm and quietness is what I'm going for.

     

    My other option is to get two Arctic P12s. I know noctuas are the gold standard, but I don't really want to spend $50 on fans. Especially since I have a kaze flex already.

     

     

     

     

  7. 4 hours ago, AstroBenny said:

    I mean, what's the difference between normal speakers compared to the speakers @sidas wants..?

    Your normal speaker system plugs into the wall which is AC. He wants a system that runs from DC. 

     

    What about getting a 12v to AC inverter? Is that an option for you? You can get a 300W continuous DC to AC inverter for less than $30 on amazon.

  8. Hey guys! So I used to have a 660Ti when I first built my computer, but I sold it because I needed money. And now a little while ago I picked up a used 7970 for pretty cheap so I can start playing games again. The card has a nice open cooler design so the fans are pretty quiet while gaming even with almost a 100% continuously. My CPU has a hyper 212 and the fan is always set to 35%, keeps the CPU cool enough. 

    Case fans are a bunch of cheap NZXT ones, but I have a lot: 2x120 + 1x140 intakes 2x140 + 1x120 + PSU exhausts. I keep all the case fans on the low setting using my case's built in controller so they are super quiet. 

     

    So with the old 660Ti, I never even heard the PSU, but now with the 7970 the PSU turns up quiet a bit and I can hear it over all the other fans in the system. Since the PSU itself works fine and provides enough power for the system(have had no problems even with max load tests), I don't really want to replace it, I just want to make it quieter. 

     

    I have seen people doing PSU fan replacements, but I'm unsure what I would replace it with. Opening up the PSU and digging into it is not a problem for me. Any advice?

     

    Should I replace the fan? Will it help? If yes, what fan should I get for it?

     

    The PSU I am using is a Antec Neo Eco 520w. I made sure to get a good PSU for the system originally, this one is manufactured by Seasonic which from what I know are the best in the PSU market. 

    If I can quieten it, I'll probably just have to live with the noise. Can't justify getting another PSU just for noise. 

  9. I have the Shure SE215 SPE. I had the S4s before and these beat them by a long shot. At first the design was kind of annoying since the cable goes over your ear, but after a little while it feels so natural and its way harder for the earbud to fall out. 

     

    From what I have read the SPE version is not too different from the standard ones. Supposedly the bass is a little better, but IDK if its worth an extra $30.

  10. Can't really answer since I have only used my K95 and the Das my dad bought after trying out my K95. 

     

    Between the two, the K95 felt much more heavy duty to me, mostly because of the thick full aluminum back plate.

     

    Anyone who has tried them: How does the quality of these compare to the more expensive brands like Filco or Ducky? 

     

    I really like the styling of the Corsair K series so I went with them. Wish I had gone for the smaller version though. I don't use the macros much and the keyboard take a ton of desk space. Does look cool though, and isn't that what really matters? :P

  11. I decided to take the risk and got this chinese 2.1 amp a while ago: http://www.ebay.com/itm/YJ-HiFi-TPA3116-2-1-CSR4-0-Bluetooth-4-0-Module-Digital-Amplifier-Finished-/301511859144

     

    I was not able to find many 2.1 amps for a similar price so I went with it. I have not tried any other speaker amps except for the Lepai, and compared to that I like this way more. More than enough power for me and the bluetooth feature is pretty convinient. You will have to get a power supply for it which will be like $25. Amazon sells a combo: http://www.amazon.com/Baitaihem-Channel-Subwoofer-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B00Z6ID2O2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1454995186&sr=8-6&keywords=2.1+amp

     

    I was planning on only using it till I got new speakers, but I don't think I will. The bluetooth is so handy when people are over and want to play their own music.

     

    I have not used banana plugs, but I think you can use them if you want. 

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