Delta-Force

1. you would have needed to buy the Atmos App, since Windows recognises the AV Receiver as Dolby Atmos capeable device and sends the correct data to the AVR. 2. Your AVR handles everything. You don't need the settings in the app. You just need to set your receiver to the Atmos upmixer. Click the surround decode button on the remote. There you should be able to select the DA Upmixer.

Hello I bought an RTX 3080 and a Ryzen 7 5700x today. Since I have a X370 i installed the most upto date Bios Version 6042 so the 5700x is supported. Then I uninstalled the GPU driver with DDU, put the new hardware in and started the computer again and installed the driver for the RTX 3080. On the first startup a TPM message popped up and i pressed No. Now with the new hardware in my Audio doesn't work anymore. My Realtek driver still detects when I plug my headphones in, but the audio symbol in the taskbar has a red X and says "no speaker or headphone plugged in". I already tried to reinstall the audiodrivers for the mainboard and restart the Windows Audio in the services, both tips found via google, but it doesn't help. Can someone help? I don't want to install my Windows fresh, I just had to do it 3 months ago because Win Updates wrecked my install. I just finishes downloading all my games and programms.

Bought a Officejet 7720 today, set it up and installed HP Smart. But I ran into a few issues. 1. Solved with better WIFI-Connection. WIFI-Reception is very bad IMO. 1 vs 5 bars with printer vs laptop is unacceptable. Print speed is very low. The print itself happens very fast, but if I try to print more than one page over the WIFI connection, it takes forever between pages. The first one comes out, it prints about 4cm of the second page and then waits for 10-15 second before finishing. Printer says wifi connection is at level 2 of 5, so not that good, although I have 5 bars on my laptop right next to it. 2. Because of the low speed I tried the USB connection. First pages is fine again, but from the second page onward the printer prints a solid black line at the left side. Pulling the cable and trying over wifi has a clean print again. 3. So after those 2 options I tried the direct Wifi print option. Windows finds the printer, connects to it, I type in the password but then Windows says that there is no driver. HPs Homepage says to install HP Smart. I already did that, but it still says no driver. 4. So now I print over the Wifi connection. Next probelm is that the duplex print flipped over the short side. After I switched from back to front to front to back the first doublessided print works, but when I select 2 or more prints every other one except the first print is upside down again. So 1st page is correct, 2nd and onward is flipped. Why's that? What's going on that point 2 and 4 result in a bad print from page 2 onward? It's like it forgets how to print from then on.

So I have bluescreens with all sorts of errors, after Windows updated to KB5000802. 0xc00021a, system service exception, kmode exception not handled, dpc watchdog violation and many more. I tried to get onto the desktop and uninstall the said update, but it didn't help, still all sorts of errors. Then I tried to boot from my Win 10 CD. Sometimes it works and I can get into the install menu and switch to the service options, but all the available options there for repairing or going back to a prev timestamp don't work. Somehow I got into another menu that has the points for reseting windows and uninstalling updates in it. I don't really want to reset windows (i.e. I have a student Photoshop version on there for which I don't have the key anymore), and the uninstall for featureupdates didn't work, but for quality updates it did. But still no help. Now I want to get back into that menu, because reseting it without loosing data seems like a good option now after 12h of troubleshooting, but I can't anymore. So my questions: How can I get into that menu, or can I reset without loosing personal data via a cmd line? And: Would it be posible to install windows from scratch to a new Sata SSD and put the m.2 back in when that's done to get the data off of it, or would that result in bluescreens again?

Already looked in there. The Xiaomi rubber case has a plug for the port, so there won't get any dust in there.

Hello everyone. I wanted to hear your experiences and opinions on this. Somehow I seem to have really bad experiences with phones with USB-C ports. My first phone with one was a Samsung S9. Port had first signs of breaking after about 2.2years. It started showing the "water in port"-warning and stopped to fastcharge. Another 1-2 months later I was not able to charge it at all. So I bought a Samsung A50. That one had the same issues of not being able to fastcharge after only 8 months, so I bought a Xiaomi Note 9 only 3 days before the A50 was not able to charge anymore and I sent it to a repairshop (sadly they wouldn't repair it under warranty, because it had a 1mm crack at the top of the screen). Now the Xiaomi shows the first signs of not charging all the time (screen lights up every 10 seconds indicating a newly started charging process) after I only bought it in August 2020, so it has about 180 plugin cycles. The port is really wobbly already (4-5° up and down movement). There is no dust in there, since the rubber case has a plug. Somehow I don't know what I do wrong. Since I had such bad experiences with the two Samsungs phones I swore I would eliminate my wrongdoing and only charge the Xiaomi while it lay still on my nightstand, but it still is starting to bother me. All my previouse phone with Mircro USB ports never had such issues, even if I saved them from a fall by pulling at the cable, playing on the phone while it charged, bending the cables etc. The ports held 3-5 years and where thight to plug in the first and last day of using them. Now the new and sooo good USB-C fells like a worn out buthole of a 90 year old grandma. I am really just pissed about it, because I have better things to do than switching between phones because my new 8 month old needs to go into the repairshop again.

Do you guys know of a DP to USB C cable that can be fed with power? I ordered one of those tiny 15" AOC USB C monitors for my mums new cash register, because the old display for the customer was too dimm to read anything on it. The cash register only has a DP output and I totaly forgot that DP doesn't supply enough power for the display to work. So I am looking for a cable that can take DP and power as inputs to drive the USB C display. What I found till now was only in the other direction for Macbooks or phone (USB-C to DP plus power to charge the device) Thx in advance.

Slightly wrong. Double the distance loses you not 3 but 6dB.

The frequency range of your receiver should be deep enough to drive the sub. Depending on the power the receiver can produce the levels won't be really high, but for some punch in the base at low levels it should be fine. Is the sub out mono? Then only a mono RCA cable is needed, or you just use one of the plugs of a stereo RCA cable.

Man, all those answers were more confusing the TO than helping him. A simple answer like "there is no other way than just buying the cheapest AVR with pre-outs" rather than "there are cinema processors like the CP850 or Trinnov pre-amps that are custom coded for normal PC hardware" would have helped him instantly. So to make it clear for other reading or the TO: The cheapest and only option for customers is to buy the cheapest AVR that supports 11 channels and has a 11 channel pre-out section. And no, the Dolby Access App doesn't help, and you don't even need it, because sending Atmos signals to an AVR via HDMI is a free feature. The only feature the App gets you is the Dolby Atmos Headphones mode.

Ehm... Atmos is both, height and sound from above. I don't know what's your problem here. You say that at a desk the speakers would be too close. I had a 5.1.2 Setup with a Denon X4100 at my desk and it worked good. Next: What BS are you saying about "The set has no upfiring speakers, so he must mount two under the ceiling, but that doesn't work with Atmos"? Mate: Atmos was meant to work with ceiling mounted speakers. Have you been at a cinema and looked up? Have you seen the two rows of downfacing speakers mounted up there? Those upfiring speakers for home use are just garbage. Direct firing speakers mounted the same way as in a cinema produce a way better sound field. You won't have any seperation, because the decoder calculates the sound for the setup. Before calling others out, you should read Dolby's whitepapers and manuals on how Atmos works and should be installed.

Don't fear, every HDCP Version was backwardscompatible, so a new PC won't say no when you want it to display a signal ment for the TV. Handshake problems just happen with badly behaving hardware. Not even a 7000€ high end Pre-Amp is surely working with every other hardware over cable X.

So should I change the DNS in my router settings too? Because changing it on the PC still results in slight bumps in the ping (1,1,1,48,125,650,35,11,1,1,1).

But why should another DNS help when the high ping is already there between PC and router?

Hi So, like a few times ago, it's time again for my PC to give me high pings (3.3s) and request timeouts. I had this problem 3 or 4 times, since I built this PC back in 2016. So a few days ago the problem started again. No other device has this problem (MSI Laptop has 2ms avg, 4ms max over 2000pings). I ping my router over 192.168.1.1. On the first day I got back 20 ok pings with 1ms or less, then 2 or 3 that were higher (100-300), then 5 timeouts, then 2-3 high pings, then 20 1ms ones, then over again. On day two, I only got like 20 timeouts in 700 pings. I installed the newest driver of the AC56 (from 2015, Version 7.35.317.0), and the pings got better a little bit (15 timeouts over 900 pings, highest ping 2500ms, 40ms avg.). Now i wanted to play BF5 since the pings got better and better, but while playing I had pings as high as 4 seconds. I searched for Win 10 updates, it found some, installed them. After that the pings where better for about 10 minutes, but then again 4sec pings. I don't know what to do. In the past it just disappeared magicaly without doing anything, other than restarting PC and router (which didn't help). But now the problem persists for about 5 days, without an end in sight. PC specs: Ryzen 1800X, GTX 1080, 16Gb GSkill Ram, Win10 64bit and the ac56 card.